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Hello Everyone,

I'm hoping someone can give me some help or guidance. I just installed an Avital 3100L alarm system in my Hyundai Accent 2012 SE. Everything is working fine except for the door trigger ... the starter kill works, power door unlock and lock fine, impact sensor fine, parking lights flashing fine.

I am using the Hyundai Accent 2012 wiring diagram found here -> 2012- Hyundai Accent Vehicle Wiring Chart and Diagram
The avital installation manual can be found here -> http://www.directeddealers.com/manuals/IG/Avital/N3100L 2008-12, web.pdf

From my understanding, I am connecting the green wire on the Avital 3100L H1 Connector to the DOOR TRIGGER / BROWN/ORANGE (-) / WHITE 39-PIN PLUG, PIN 39 @ DRIVERS KICK PANEL wire in my vehicle. However, the door opening does not trigger the alarm. To test, I rolled down the window, shut the door, arm the alarm and waited several minutes. Opened any door by reaching inside the open window and no alarm sounds. When I shut the door, I get a warning sound due to the shock sensor and if I put the key in the ignition and try to start, it doesn't start and the alarm sounds as it is intended to do so.

Now, I thought instead of the Green Wire, I needed to connect the violet wire to the Door Trigger wire as it looks like one of those wires on the Avital man unit should do it. However, I connected that too, but still no alarm sounding when I open the door. I reconnected the Green wire and now I notice when I shut all doors and arm the alarm, the unit beeps once and the once again. According to the manual, it seems like it is bypassing the doors maybe thinking they are still open even though they are closed?? I thought maybe it had something to do with the dome light as that stays on for 30 seconds. But, I waited for the dome light to go off , armed the alarm, waited and opened the doors, but still no alarm. Not sure if this info helps or not.

Anyone have any thoughts or guidance for me? Thanks in advance!

Russ
 

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Try the wire on Pin 1 of the 39 pin white connector in the Driver's Kick Panel. It should be pink.

Please test the wire first--Place a voltmeter black (-) lead on the pin 1 wire, and the Red (+) lead on +12V constant. Now with the door closed, you should read 0V on the meter. With the door open, the meter should read +12V. If this is the case, you know you have the right wire.

You are correct, you should hook the Green wire from the H1 harness on the Viper to the (-) door trigger.

One other thing you may want to consider is disconnecting the green door wire altogether to make sure everything else on the alarm works--hood, trunk, shock, etc. With the green wire disconnected, the alarm will act as if the door is closed, and the other functions should operate as expected. Once you confirm all else is OK, and you test the pink wire, you can hook up the door trigger and test that out also.

Good luck, and post back if you need more info/help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the assistance

Thanks Nismo06 for the help. I am going to try that either tomorrow or over the weekend and I will let you know how it goes. Just curious, how do you know or think it is Pin 1 on the 39 pin harness? I've been searching the net for a complete wiring diagram for that connector but cannot locate one. Do you have one for that? Thanks again!

Russ
 

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Hyundai service website was free up until 12/20/13. I printed a copy of the courtesy light schematic while I had access, and I referred to it when I read your post. I also referenced DirectWire for our vehicles, and it also refers to a pink wire in pin 1 for door pin. No matter what, you always need to test the wire to confirm you have the correct signal.

Good luck and have a great holiday.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
One more quick question. I was able to pull a copy of the Courtesy and Trunk Lamp Schematic for Hyundai Accent 2012. It looks like I also need to connect the trunk sensor too. So, from my reading and I will need to test it out, it looks like I need to do the following

Hyundai Door Harness Pin 1 Pink Wire -> Avital H1 Green wire for Zone 3 Doors
Hyundai Door Harness Pin 25 xx Wire -> Avital H1 Blue wire for Zone 1 Trunk

Is that correct and do you know if the Pin 25 is a green wire or what color it might be? Thanks again for the assistance.
 

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Yes, the trunk pin is located in the White 39 pin connector in the driver's kick, pin 25, and yes it is green. Please note this is not the door harness connector as you posted, which is a black 39 pin connector going to the door in the driver's kick. You would connect this wire to the blue H1-6 wire from the Avital Alarm.
 

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""" it seems like it is bypassing the doors maybe thinking they are still open even though they are closed??"""

The trouble I had with this is that the door-open switch seems to be connected to the courtesy lamp, which remains lit for 30(?) seconds after closing the door. If you read the voltage on the br/o wire I think you'll see 12v even after you close the door, but it disappears when the light goes out.

I think you have to use: Br/O (driver), W (passenger), Br (Rear RH), G (Rear LH) and a G on the connector for the trunk or hatch. You have to connect these together to have one "open" signal from any of them. And, you need to use diodes to prevent any one wire from interfering with any other wire.

In other words: You want all 5 of the 12v traveling into your single "door open" wire. The diodes on each wire (if oriented correctly) will stop 12V from traveling back into any of those 5 wires when 12V comes through one of those 5 wires. The result will be one wire which shows 12v when any door is open, but also a "block" against 12V going back down any of those wires where no door is open.

A better place to ask install questions might be the12volt.com. There's a lot of installers there. (Sometimes its unclear if they're there to help or prove how much better they are than newbies. They can be cruel if they get the impression you haven't through it through yet. It's best to preface any post with self-deprecating comments, and how you know you'll feel stupid once it's explained to you because you're sure it should be obvious. Save them the trouble of speaking to you like that. (ha).).
 

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I printed a copy of the courtesy light schematic while I had access, and I referred to it when I read your post.
There is an HTML'ized version of the Hyundai ETM manual here. (That site deletes files not downloaded in 30 days. If it disappears, PM me and I'll upload again.). I think it's a lot easier because you can click on links within the diagram to bounce to other pages, view connector details, locations, etc. Very hyperlink oriented. Makes it easy to quickly bounce around and figure out long relationships between circuits. You can also use ctrl-+ to zoom in on a diagram.

It's just a zip file containing html files (and javascript). Download, unzip to disk, and open the "index.html" file in your browser.


I also referenced DirectWire for our vehicles, and it also refers to a pink wire in pin 1 for door pin.
That's what clued me in on how the door-open states depend upon the courtesy light for continuity. Or, at least using the pink wire caused a problem. The pink wire is the dome lamp and if it stays on 30 seconds after the door is closed, you'll get a door-ajar error unless you configure your alarm to ignore door ajar for that period of time. (Or, if I recall correctly, if your door lamp is turned off, which I tend to do a lot, you get no voltage on the pink wire.).

That's why I think it's better to join the individual "door-open" wires from each door instead of using the common pink wire. (as mentioned in previous post).

I should state I haven't installed my viper alarm yet. One of my famous unfinished projects. I got pretty far into investigating how to do it. The last thing I needed to figure out was how to do "progressive door unlock." One press unlocks the driver door, two quick presses unlocks all doors.

Have you figured that out yet? I think it requires a custom relay relay and tying the other 3-4(hatch) doors to the driver door using diodes like I explained for the door-open signal. A relay to hold open closed for 3-5 seconds, allowing a second relay to energize if an unlock pulse comes through (while the first relay is energized). That relay would then send the pulse to the 3-4 other doors.

I may just pay an installer to set me up. I'll probably never get back to this project.
 

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I believe you can hook up the doors to the alarm using diodes--This is still common practice when the doors in the vehicle are no common. The wire I suggest is the common wire for the door switches--no diodes needed.
The other wires on the door switches are inputs to the BCM to turn on the dome light.

The Hyundai schematics can be a little deceiving, because they show circuits with BCM and without the BCM. I assume you have a BCM in your vehicle if you have keyless entry.

The Pink wire is the wire that goes from each door switch to the "Door Open" indicator on the dash. This is not directly connected to the dome light. You can convince yourself of this by testing the circuit as I indicated in my initial post, and by looking at the "Door Open" indicator; It goes out as soon as the doors are shut, and the BCM, connected to the dome lights and cutoff circuit, drives the dome light delay separately.

On most installations, there can be several ways to accomplish the same function--you just need to find the one you have confidence in.


As far as wiring the unlock circuit for Driver's Priority, alarms usually have 3 separate outputs; unlock and 2nd unlock, as well as factory alarm disarm. When programmed for driver's priority unlock, most systems pulse Factory disarm and unlock on the first press of the remote's unlock button (unlocking the Driver's door), and pulse 2nd unlock on the second press of the remote's unlock button to unlock the rest of the doors.

In the accent, you would use the factory disarm lead to pulse the grey/orange lead from the driver's door lock cylinder (found in that same white 39 pin connector in the Driver's Kick, pin 20). This disarm signal wakes up the BCM--this overcomes the "lockout" that occurs on the interior door switches when the vehicle is locked via factory remote. The Unlock signal from the alarm is used to pulse the driver's door relay (BCM 20 pin connector , pin 8), unlocking the driver's door. The 2nd Unlock signal goes to the white 39 pin connector in the Driver's Kick, pin 16, Grey wire, unlocking all the other doors. All wires are negative pulse.
 

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The Pink wire is the wire that goes from each door switch to the "Door Open" indicator on the dash. This is not directly connected to the dome light. You can convince yourself of this by testing the circuit as I indicated in my initial post, and by looking at the "Door Open" indicator; It goes out as soon as the doors are shut, and the BCM, connected to the dome lights and cutoff circuit, drives the dome light delay separately.
It sounds like you've done this before, so I don't want to offend you. But, I'm pretty sure I connected a voltmeter to the pink wire and discovered it stayed hot as long as the domelight was on. And, didn't show hot at all if the domelight was disabled.

I'm looking forward to what the OP discovers because what you describe would be much easier.

As far as wiring the unlock circuit for Driver's Priority, alarms usually have 3 separate outputs; unlock and 2nd unlock, as well as factory alarm disarm.
(I feel I'm hijacking the thread.). My Viper 350 2-way (3305 Responder install diagram) has a negative pulse unlock wire (harness 2, blue) and a wire which can be programmed to send a second pulse (Harness 1, white/blue)

I didn't know I could connect the programmable white/blue wire to a common wire for the other doors.

Regarding the "factory disarm" output, I don't seem to have that. Could you explain the "lockout" condition you mentioned? I.e., what's going to happen if I don't pulse the grey/orange wire? Do I understand that the interior lock/unlock rockers won't work, the same as they don't today when the car is remotely locked?

If understand that correctly, I think disabled rocker switches is a good thing. It reduces the chance for someone to break into the car by pressing on the rocker. (Wedge the door open a bit and slide a stiff rod inside to touch the rocker switch.).

I'm starting to feel motivated to restart this project. :) Thanks.
 

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No problem, I'm not offended...I've installed quite a few remote starters, but haven't done my own yet...I will be getting to it shortly. Where did you probe and test the pink wire?

On the "Lockout", the accent has a feature which disables the door switches when locked by the keyless entry. Test this out by sitting in the car with the doors closed and key out of the ignition. Press the lock button on the factory keyless, wait a few seconds, and then try to unlock the doors. You will find the unlock switches are disabled. To enable the switches again, you need to either start the car, unlock with the keyless, or turn the driver's door key switch to unlock. The factory disarm pulse mimics the driver's door key switch unlock. If you don't do this, the BCM switch inputs continue to be ignored (and won't respond to the alarm inputs to unlock).
 

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The factory disarm pulse mimics the driver's door key switch unlock. If you don't do this, the BCM switch inputs continue to be ignored (and won't respond to the alarm inputs to unlock).
Thanks, I understand the severity of that issue now. Without a "factory disarm" output from my alarm, what should I do?

I can test it, but I thought the key-turn unlock would unlock the driver door. It sounds like it would be sufficient enough to put the alarm's first pulse on this. It would unlock the door and wake up the BCM?

If it doesn't unlock the door, it sounds like I'd have to put the alarm's first pulse to the door's unlock actuator (send the pulse as if the BCM sent it) *and* to the grey/orange wire to wake up the BCM. (If one is positive pulsed and the other negative, I could use both wires from the alarm's door lock/unlock harness. One pulses positive, the other negative).

Sorry to hijack the thread. But, does that sound about right?
 

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You will need to diode isolate the 2 door triggers, See the Directed info below. I have been an installer for over 23 years so if you need any help please Pm me.

Rob

Signal blue + dash fuse box, white 42 pin plug (F), pin 31
(Right)
Turn Signal green + dash fuse box, white 42 pin plug (F), pin 38
(Left)
Hazards blue/black (models with BCM) - BCM above gas pedal, white 20 pin plug, pin 4
Parking Lights pink/black - headlight switch, white 14 pin plug, pin 7
(-)
dash fuse box, white 42 pin plug (F), pins 35
and 34
Parking Lights green/black (L), yellow/black (R) +
(+)
Disarm Defeat brown (models with BCM) 5 wire dash fuse box, white 42 pin plug (F), pin 26
Unlock Motor brown (models with BCM) 5 wire dash fuse box, white 42 pin plug (F), pin 40
Lock Motor gray (models with BCM) 5 wire dash fuse box, white 42 pin plug (F), pin 22
gray (w/BCM); (w/o BCM add actuator in driv - driver kick, white 39 pin plug, pin 16
door)
Power Unlock
brown (w/BCM); (w/o BCM add actuator in driv - driver kick, white 39 pin plug, pin 15
door)
Power Lock
Can Bus Sw N/A
Can Bus Low orange (C-CAN) data data link connector, black 16 pin plug, pin 14
Can Bus High green (C-CAN) data data link connector, black 16 pin plug, pin 6
left of dash fuse box, black 21 pin plug, pins 11
and 3
Data Bus blue/org (immobilizer data); yellow (immob. light) data; - lt
Key Sense blue/orange - ignition key switch, white 6 pin plug, pin 4
Third Accessory N/A
Second yellow + ignition switch, black 6 pin plug, pin 6
Accessory
Accessory orange + ignition switch, black 6 pin plug, pin 2
Third Ignition N/A
Second Ignition N/A
Ignition pink + ignition switch, black 6 pin plug, pin 4
Second Starter N/A
Starter white + ignition switch, black 6 pin plug, pin 3
Second 12 Volts blue (40A) + ignition switch, black 6 pin plug, pin 5
12 Volts green (50A) + ignition switch, black 6 pin plug, pin 1
Item Wire Color Polarity Wire Location
Wiring Information
2012 Hyundai Accent
 

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Try the wire on Pin 1 of the 39 pin white connector in the Driver's Kick Panel. It should be pink.

Please test the wire first--Place a voltmeter black (-) lead on the pin 1 wire, and the Red (+) lead on +12V constant. Now with the door closed, you should read 0V on the meter. With the door open, the meter should read +12V. If this is the case, you know you have the right wire.
The pink wire (pin 1 on MF11, 39-pin white connector in driver kick panel) seems to work for all the doors. Unlike my earlier suggestion that it wouldn't work because it was tied to the dome light, it seems to work independently of the light. I.e., light goes off, pin 1's voltage remains unchanged. Or, if light is disabled, it doesn't affect pin 1's voltage.

However, I detected the opposite state. I connected my voltmeter's red lead to Pin 1 pink. The black lead to a ground bolt located 10" above the connector. With the door open, there is negligible voltage. With the door closed, it is 12 v.

The pink wire works the same for all 4 doors.

There is a green wire (pin 25) which works the same for the hatch (5-door SE). Hatch closed, the green wire has 12 volts. Hatch open, the green wire drops to negligible millivolts. (Note: This green wire is in the center column of the connector, at the opposite end of the pink wire. It has 2 green wires coming out of it. I.e., it serves as a splice as well as a connector.).

Anyway, if I'm right that the pink (and green) wires ground when door ajar, that will affect which leads to use from the alarm. The alarm should have a positive and negative instant trigger input.
 

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You will need to diode isolate the 2 door triggers,
I think you mean to put a diode (each) on the pink (all doors trigger) and green (hatch) wires with the diodes' band oriented toward the factory wire. The non-band side facing the alarm's negative trigger input wire. This will prevent a condition where the hatch is open (creating a ground point) and the door trigger's 12 volts traveling through the alarm wire to the hatch's ground point. (Likewise, the band facing the green wire prevents the hatch's 12 volts from traveling to the pink wire's ground point when any door is open.).

If I got that wrong, please let me (us) know. I figure the OP will be dealing with this too.
 

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2012 Accent -- Directed Tech. Wiring Table

I asked Rob to send me the formatted doc because the pasted copy lost it's format (columns, etc.). I've attached it to this post. It should be easier to read.

Thanks for your time Rob.
 

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However, I detected the opposite state. I connected my voltmeter's red lead to Pin 1 pink. The black lead to a ground bolt located 10" above the connector. With the door open, there is negligible voltage. With the door closed, it is 12 v.

The pink wire works the same for all 4 doors.
You hooked your meter to ground, and probed the pin; I recommended that you hook the meter to +12V and probe the pin, so your results will be opposite of what I originally posted.

This is exactly the functionality and pin I explained earlier...The door pin is grounded when you open the door, and with the meter grounded, you are reading the door pin to ground (0V) with the door open; with the door closed, your door pin is open, and you read the 12V from the open circuit from the dash indicator. This is a Negative trigger door circuit--It activates when it senses the door is opened (0V or ground).

As far as the 2 step unlock, if you only have no factory disarm signal on your alarm, you would use 2 diodes, tied together at the unlock wire and bands toward the unlock wire. The unbanded side of one diode goes to the 39pin white connector pin 20 (Key cylinder unlock), and the unbanded side of the other diode goes to the driver's door unlock relay (BCM 20 pin connector pin 8 (Black/Orange). The 2nd unlock signal goes to 39 pin white connector pin 16.

How this works: on the first (unlock) pulse, the BCM lockout is turned off as if you put the key in the door and turned it 1 time; at the same time, you are unlocking the driver's door motor. The second unlock press causes the 2nd unlock signal from the alarm to pulse the power unlock switch, unlocking all the doors.
 

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How this works: on the first (unlock) pulse, the BCM lockout is turned off as if you put the key in the door and turned it 1 time; at the same time, you are unlocking the driver's door motor. The second unlock press causes the 2nd unlock signal from the alarm to pulse the power unlock switch, unlocking all the doors.
I just did some testing. It doesn't seem like we need the "factory disable" (39 Pin MF11, pin 20 Grey/Orange. Or, 24 Pin M04-A, pin 14 at the BCM) to unlock the non-driver doors.

First, I confirmed that the second pulse unlock of the non-driver doors (39-pin MF11, Pin 16 Grey) doesn't do anything when the doors have been locked using the remote.

Second, I tried sending a ground connection to the Grey/Orange wire (which is the two-turn unlock switch at the driver's door). This is the one you thought would wake up the BCM to respond to the door rocker lock/unlock switches. But, it didn't seem to do anything. I tried it at only 39-pin MF11, Pin 20. It should be the same wire at the BCM's 24-pin M04-A, Pin 14.

Instead of trying to investigate the "disarm" feature, I moved on to the driver-door unlock (i.e., the first-pulse behavior expected from the alarm's remote). I gave a ground connection to the 20-pin M04-B at the BCM, pin 9, Black/Orange. It unlocked the driver door.

Next, I thought I'd try to unlock the other doors (the hoped-for second pulse behavior from the alarm's remote). I gave a negative connection to the 39-pin MF11, Pin 16 Grey wire. All the doors unlocked!

So, it appears all we need to do is

1. Pulse (-) the 20-pin M04-B connector (at the BCM), pin 9 Black/Orange wire. This unlocks the driver's door *and* seems to wake up the BCM.

2. Pulse (-) the 39-pin MF11 connector (in the driver's kick panel), Pin 16 Grey wire. This unlocks all the doors. But, it won't do anything if the doors were locked using the remote, and step #1 wasn't performed first.

I feel like I understand this a lot better. I don't know how frustrating it would have been to diagnose that factory lockout. I would have done my initial install investigation of wires by locking/unlocking at the door's rocker switches. I would have never thought that remote locking caused different behavior.

I hope this helps the OP. (Otherwise, sorry for hijacking a thread.).

Would you put a diode on any of these single-wire connections, like the grey "all-door unlock" or the black/orange driver-door unlock? Is there any risk of the alarm interfering with the car's circuitry?

Thanks.
 
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