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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

I have Hyundai Accent 2007 and I had few times starting issue. Few times happened when I was waiting in line on traffic lights and few times when was huge traffic and car is in idle(neutral position) and low rpm(Waited for 5-10mins and then started). And recently what happened, I was driving few miles and waiting for a friend on bus stop to pick him up. Car was turned off, only the radio and heating turned on. I was waiting for him 10 minutes and when I tried to start it couldn't start, so I needed to wait for another 5-10 minutes and then started. Car was with two different mechanics, checked two times diagnostics and battery was fine, nobody knows what is the issue. I don't want to waste my money and try to replace every single part. Every answer is helpful. Thanks in advance.
 

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I'm not sure I follow?

Your asking about a non start fault but it happens when you've stopped at traffic lights. Wouldn't the engine already be started if you stop at traffic lights?
Or are you trying to say the engine will stall when your stopped at traffic lights and wont restart straight away? Is that what's happening?
 

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I used to have a car with those symptoms. After driving somewhere and turning it off I'd have to wait until the engine cooled a bit before it would start again. A couple times it even stalled out when driving. It ended up being the camshaft position sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'm not sure I follow?

Your asking about a non start fault but it happens when you've stopped at traffic lights. Wouldn't the engine already be started if you stop at traffic lights?
Or are you trying to say the engine will stall when your stopped at traffic lights and wont restart straight away? Is that what's happening?

Hi,

tnx for reply, yes that is correct, the engine will stall when I am at the traffic lights and won't restart straight away after multiple times of trying, so I need to move car aside of the road and wait for at least 10 minutes to start again.
 

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I used to have a car with those symptoms. After driving somewhere and turning it off I'd have to wait until the engine cooled a bit before it would start again. A couple times it even stalled out when driving. It ended up being the camshaft position sensor.

Hello jbgoode,

is that the same car or just similar issues? Thanks
 

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Hello jbgoode,

is that the same car or just similar issues? Thanks
No, that was a Dodge Neon I had about 10 years ago (total crap car), but as I recall when I was researching the issue back then the symptoms of a bad camshaft position sensor seemed to be pretty much the same for any number of makes/models. I think a bad crankshaft sensor produces similar symptoms. My guess is that your problem is one of those two but take that with a grain of salt because I'm far from an expert. It was a cheap fix though--the sensor only cost about 30 bucks and a buddy of mine put it in for free.

I should add that when the problem first began, it wasn't throwing any codes and the check engine light did not come on. As the problem became more frequent, the idiot light came on but would then go off after a while but eventually came on and stayed on until I fixed it.
 

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the engine will stall when I am at the traffic lights and won't restart straight away after multiple times of trying, so I need to move car aside of the road and wait for at least 10 minutes to start again.
That is often a symptom of a crank sensor failure. It's quite common for the sensor to break down when it gets hot causing the engine to stall. It can't be restarted again until the sensor cools down and starts to work again.

A couple of related links :

MC Accent -stalls when stopped idling
Hyundai Getz - not starting when hot
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks guys I really appreciate it. I am really noob to do anything with the cars, I hope that is crankshaft sensor faulty so when I have time, I'll go to the mechanic, replace it and give it a try. Thanks once again :)
 

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Thanks guys I really appreciate it. I am really noob to do anything with the cars, I hope that is crankshaft sensor faulty so when I have time, I'll go to the mechanic, replace it and give it a try. Thanks once again :)
Next time this issue happens, can you watch your RPM gauge (also known as the Tachometer) when you try to start the car, it will be completely still (no movement) or you will see it move a little bit and then back to zero when you stop cranking the car.

If you see movement from the RPM gauge, then it is likely that your crank sensor is working properly, but if you do not see movement from the RPM gauge then the crank sensor is very likely the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Next time this issue happens, can you watch your RPM gauge (also known as the Tachometer) when you try to start the car, it will be completely still (no movement) or you will see it move a little bit and then back to zero when you stop cranking the car.

If you see movement from the RPM gauge, then it is likely that your crank sensor is working properly, but if you do not see movement from the RPM gauge then the crank sensor is very likely the issue.


Hi,

I didn't watch the rpm gauge during the issue(thanks for the tip), but I noticed when I am let's say for example on traffic lights waiting in neutral gear, I can see gauge moving little bit up and down.
 

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Hi,

I didn't watch the rpm gauge during the issue(thanks for the tip), but I noticed when I am let's say for example on traffic lights waiting in neutral gear, I can see gauge moving little bit up and down.
no problem, let us know what happens next time you have the issue...as for the RPM moving up and down a little bit when you are stopped in neutral, that is perfectly normal.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Hi all,


there was no issues with stalling until yesterday(didn't changed crankshaft sensor yet). I went yesterday to my car mechanic for changing timing belt, I parked the car outside the garage and when mechanic came to drive car in garage he couldn't start the engine and he told me immediately when he saw immobilizer light it is problem with the key, maybe it needs to be reprogrammed, you need to check with car electric(asked him about crankshaft sensor he was 100% sure it is not sensor cause it should be some reading in memory when you try with diagnostics). But that guy told me he needs to replace part by part to see whats wrong unless car won't start in his garage. Now I am not really sure what I am going to do, change the sensor or go to electric. I think I'm gonna waste my money either way... tnx P.S I forgot to look RPM gauge
 

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The current non start sounds like a completely different issue to your original problem. The immobilizer (assuming it's the factory transponder key we're talking about) is only used during engine start. Once the engine is running the immobilizer doesn't do anything, so it wont cause the engine to cut out.

What is the immobilizer light doing that makes the mechanic think there's a fault.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The current non start sounds like a completely different issue to your original problem. The immobilizer (assuming it's the factory transponder key we're talking about) is only used during engine start. Once the engine is running the immobilizer doesn't do anything, so it wont cause the engine to cut out.

What is the immobilizer light doing that makes the mechanic think there's a fault.

He saw immobilizer light on display(it looks like small key on car). Is that true that in diagnostics you can have readings in memory of let's say crankshaft sensor when was failing I don't know two weeks ago?
 

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He saw immobilizer light on display(it looks like small key on car).
That doesn't mean there's a fault. The light is supposed to come on when you switch the ignition on. It should switch off during crank if the immobilizer authorises engine start.

ejtun said:
Is that true that in diagnostics you can have readings in memory of let's say crankshaft sensor when was failing I don't know two weeks ago?
It's true that if a fault causes the PCM to log a trouble code the code stays in memory...for a period of time. The PCM doesn't usually log a code when the crank sensor fails though, so you can't assume it's working just because there isn't a code.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Hi,

I want to share this video of stalling issue when I was on traffic lights. First I waited until the few lights on display fade out(cca 20 sec) then tried to start the engine(it's hard to hear because of noise but you'll recognize moment when camera starts to shake...)


https://vimeo.com/268425503

Regards
 

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The immobilizer wouldn't make it stall once the engine is running and the immob warning light in your video switches off during crank just like it's supposed to, so I refer you back to post #7.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Hi,


first of all I wanna thank everyone for enormous help. I want to update my topic cause it seems that now problem is fixed. I've been testing Hyundai for a few days already, especially in long traffics to see if it really works. In meantime I found out for a small OBD scanner device which I bought from amazon for 15$ to be sure is it really crankshaft sensor causing problem. Once again, maybe a week ago a had again engine stalling on traffic lights and immediately plugged in that scanner, connected with phone and got error message(I'll attach picture). I've called my mechanic, bought the sensor and now car works like charm, maybe this is gonna help somebody.



Thanks once again to everyone :)))
 

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