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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I will shortly be replacing the cam chain on my Lantra. While the cams are off, is it possible to remove and overhaul (basically clean up the gum) on the hydraulic tappets? I have seen some other sites for other makes where they suggest taking out the tappets and soaking them overnight in de-carboniser and dismantling/cleaning but I don't know if the Hyundai tappets can be renovated in the same way. Any advice please?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Thanks for all yer help on this one !
A set of aftermarket tappets was going to set me back over £450 so I decided to overhaul my existing ones as the car was starting to sound more like a diesel. Overhaul involves:
1) removing camshafts
2) take out the tappets noting the order (16 to keep track of)
3) smack the tappet down really hard on a piece of wood until the centre piston is level with the bottom of the tappet and then just pull it the last little bit (it's held in with a spring clip so you can't pull it out from the start as it's too tight; have to whack it down hard !!!).
4) Pull piston into two halves and a spring
5) Treat piston parts and the inside of the tappet to 2 hours of Mr Muscle oven cleaner (top stuff)
6) Rinse all parts in engine degreaser to remove oven cleaner.
7) Reassemble piston checking the operation of the ball valve using a cocktail stick to release trapped air
8) If piston working OK, reassemble under oil and release oil until the piston is compressed as far as the top of the spring (you can feel when it is right). If piston leaky, fill the piston with degreaser and force through the valve to clean it.
9) Fill tappet with oil and press the assembled piston all the way back into the tappet. You should be able to rotate the piston when fully home but it will not compress as it's filled with oil though this will bleed down when assembled and under valve/cam spring tension.
10) Optional step: immerse tappets in oil and heat up over the cooker. Then cool, still under oil. The heat expands any remaining trapped air and on cooling replaces it with oil. If you omit this step, expect the tappets to be noisy when you first start up. They will be quiet the second time though.

Now my car sounds like new :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
QUOTE (stigger @ Aug 18 2010, 10:53 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=350346
What Year/Model was this mines ralltly as buggery so I may have a go...
The one shown in the left-hand column; Hyundai Lantra GSI 1.6 2000

The procedure will be the same for yours. Make sure you replace the cam chain and lower chain guide as this was also noisy on mine and the chain guide had practically worn through !
When whacking the tappets down on the wood, I strapped them to a piece of 2 by 1 as it was hurting my hand too much. Then a swing of about three feet got the piston out after a few hits; you do have to be quite brutal.

There's a post on a Vauxhall site I think with some pictures; will post the link later. Same procedure for the Lantra except I don't see any need to dismantle the small piston half containing the valve; just wash it well in Mr Muscle and thinners.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Here are some pics I found on the internet; the Lantra tappets are the same as this:
This show the underside of the tappet with the piston firmly held in the centre:

[attachment=19931:Tappet_upside_down.bmp]

After hitting the tappet down hard on the wood, the piston should come out like below:

[attachment=19932:Tappet_a...eperated.bmp]

In the following pic you can see the ball valve in the top of the piston. You can use a cocktail stick to press against the ball and release trapped air/oil as you squeeze the piston:

[attachment=19933:Tappet_a...erated_2.bmp]

Pull the piston apart and thoroughly clean the two halves. Then reassemble and test it is airtight by sqeezing:

[attachment=19934:Squeeze_piston.bmp]

When operating OK, pull apart again and reassemble under oil, letting the oil out of the piston by depressing the ball valve until the piston is just resting on the full extent of the internal spring. Then, under oil, push it all the way home into the centre of the tappet and check it will rotate by hand. (If not whack it out again and release a bit more oil). The piston should not compress as it will be full of oil but will bleed down once under pressure from the camshafts on reassembly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Here's the link I promised to post with loads more pictures and info. The Hyundai tappets are exactly the same.

http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.ph...ighlight=tappet

I would just add that I did not take apart the ball valve in half of the piston as I didn't want to weaken the circlip and risk it coming apart once back in the engine. It was not necessary as you can clean it just by immersing in Mr Muscle and then flushing through with thinners by reassembling the two halves of the piston and squeezing thinners through the ball valve.
 

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Hi.
I'm from South Africa. Got Hyundai Matrix 1.6 2002. There was a Lifters noice and I did all the procedure as mentioned in Post #2 but it become worst now. What I must do now ? Change all 16 lifters ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Have you let the engine thoroughly warm up then cool completely? After that it should be greatly improved. Mine was worse at first until the lifters had drawn oil into them by expelling air (engine hot) and then sucking in oil (as the engine cools).
 

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The next morning I left home for my shop it was still making noise. But after 30KM the noice was gone :liebe011:
Now it makes noise lets say in the morning for 5-10 seconds and at day time 2-3 seconds but when the engin is hot no noise ....
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It's usual for some noise when first started after standing until the oil has got around the engine; especially up to the camshafts. If it is as long as 10 seconds though, maybe worth changing the oil filter in case the non-return valve is letting oil flow back down to the sump. Glad the engine has otherwise become quiet :)
 

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I Have driven nearly 3000KM since last oil change. I think the oil is too thick as I used High Mileage (20W60) oil and also used something like oil to mak it more thick. Maybe it takes time in the morning to reach oil to the lifters as its cold here in South Africa. At night its almost +2 and day time is +18. And I park in open parking in my house.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Unless your car is burning oil 20W/60 is way too thick and why try to thicken it more with an additive? The hydraulic tappets need thin oil to get into them and to prevent a blockage. Use 10W40 semi-synthetic unless your engine is badly worn and burning oil in which case you will have to use a thicker oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Good luck Rayber. There's nothing too difficult once you get the hang of extracting the piston by whacking the tappet down on some wood.
I made up a box with 16 compartments to keep track of all the matching parts and which port they belonged to. It's a bit messy cleaning everything, I found the degreaser desolved my protective gloves lol so had to just use my bare hands in the end for some of it.
 
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