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I ordered both belts, going to do it myself this weekend. Went with a goodyear gatorback mainbelt (cheaper and similar reviews vs the gates belt) and the OEM water pump belt. I'll try to take photos if I remember.

Supercell - pepboys quoted me $90 labor only; I'm just so cheap I won't even pay that... did you get other service for that $450 labor?
Reg, I noticed this kit at Rockauto.com. I wonder if it is also recommended to replace the idler and tensioner and not just the belts during the 60,000 mile service. Maybe SBR can pipe in and let us know what he usually does at his dealership.
Related Parts 2011 HYUNDAI SONATA 2.4L L4 ELECTRIC/GAS : Belt Drive : Belt Drive Component Kit Price No parts for vehicles in selected markets. GOODYEAR Part # K49428 3 Components: Tensioner Assembly (1), Poly-V Belt , Idler Pulley (1)
Accessory Drive; Kit Includes Poly-V, Tensioner Assembly and Idler

* Stocked in outlying warehouse--shipping delayed up to 2 business days $123.79
 

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My dealer had no intention of changing the tensioner until they noticed it was bad. They didn't charge me for that part, only the belts.
 

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Belt replacement is a blast..

Starter-Generator took me 2 wrench to move both tensioner at same time, tie 1 wrench to motor mount to hold while I pull other and flip belt on..

The water pump belt is more or less a rubber band.. use tool to trip belt off pulley, then hand turn crank and royally stretch new belt up onto pulley while rotate crank pulley by hand with socket..
SBR - some additional details would be greatly appreciated. So I looked at this several times, the main serpentine belt will not be an issue, I got the 2 wrenches and will have another set of hands to help with that. I can't figure out how to do the water pump belt. I have been unable to rotate the crank pulley. Did you need to keep the car in neutral to manually crank it? The problem is, I wasn't able to turn the car off while its in neutral; it goes into accessories mode and tells me to put it into park. I think that if I was able to crank the drive pulley manually, I should be able to slip the water pump belt off and on while cranking it but that seems like the most challenging part.

BTW I also got a CEL after reconnecting the 270 and 12V batteries, having done nothing to the car (I just made sure my wrenches all fit and the tensioners were working right). However, no pending, logged, or historic faults were found. Took several resets and several miles for the CEL to turn off. Has anyone else seen this before?
 

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I ordered both belts, going to do it myself this weekend. Went with a goodyear gatorback mainbelt (cheaper and similar reviews vs the gates belt) and the OEM water pump belt. I'll try to take photos if I remember.

Supercell - pepboys quoted me $90 labor only; I'm just so cheap I won't even pay that... did you get other service for that $450 labor?
Hey Reg, any luck on the belt install or are you awaiting SBR's response before going forward?
 

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Vinny - still waiting for SBR... though next weekend my brother will be visiting me. He's done belt changes on many cars before so maybe he can help me out.
 

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Cool, an extra set of hands will be good, and it may make it a bit easier as far as taking photos or video of how the repair goes. Good luck with that.
 

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Vinny - still waiting for SBR... though next weekend my brother will be visiting me. He's done belt changes on many cars before so maybe he can help me out.
Hey Reg, I am sure you have researched this too but I figured I would post it anyway. This tensioner tool seems to be perfect for the small work space in the engine bay. Looks like it may save your knuckles a bit of damage. Craftsman makes this and it's $19.
 

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if you go to Autozone or some of the other car parts places they will let you borrow those tools for free. I changed a few belts in their parking lots before while borrowing the tools and bringing them back.

Chuck
 

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Thanks to both of you. I have two of the tools from Advanced Auto; free loaner for 30 days; after 30 days you bought it. It's a great service. The guy didn't believe that we needed 2 but it's true, we have 2 tensioners on the main belt. The other alternative is Harbor Freight, I think it's $15 there and they always have a 20% off coupon. So it's $12 each.

Anyways, I may delay changing the belt, had my car in for state inspection this weekend and the mechanic said that the belt looks really good still. No indications of wear or damage; he strongly recommended that I wait until there are some signs of wear/cracking before changing it out.
 

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One of the belt broke on m'y 2011 on The road
I drove 30 miles and beside having The Yellow lights on the dashboard it ran good!!
Ready kept flashing and cruise doesnt work
Tomorow i hope it starts and i CAN find à place to repair it.
Im 9 hrs away from home !!!
I got 65000 mille on it
grrrrrr
 

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Since it's been a couple of years since the last post on here I'm assuming everybody in the previous posts have changed their belts by now. I was trying to find help on youtube or on here for how to swap out the serpentine belt and water pump belt (since my car is at over 96,000 miles), but there's next to nothing if you're a hybrid owner. It took me almost five hours to do on my own, part of that was a trip to Walmart to buy lighting since it took longer than I expected and got too dark to see. I replaced a serpentine belt in my wife's Nissan Murano in just half an hour, so how hard could this be right? Well no YouTube video and no sunlight made figuring it out a bit more difficult. It's a rather tight working space which works against you. I removed the bottom plastic panels under the front right side of my car to get better access to the pulleys. First I pried the water pump belt off with a flat head screwdriver and a panel clip removal tool. Then tried to figure out the serpentine belt. Finally I found the belt tensioner, pulled it back and pinned it into place, but.....the belt was still so damned tight. WTH?? Googled some more, no luck. Looked around from below and above and noticed unlike my wife's Murano, this had two belt tensioners. I used a wrench to pull it back and then used a hand grip clamp to keep it pulled back in place. Finally the belt came off easily. Got the new serpentine belt installed, put pressure on the wrench and released the clamp, then pulled the other tensioner back and removed the allen key I used pin it in place. Next was the water pump belt, I didn't think I'd ever get it back on. My neighbor offered to let me use her SUV to get to work the next day if I couldn't figure it out. It was at this point I was losing hope as it was some where near midnight. Back to Googling, there had to be something. At that point I finally saw this thread where somebody posted "it's like a rubberband", so basically do what you need to do to get it on. Even with not caring if I snapped a brand new belt, used the flat head and clip removal tool and tried over and over to get the belt onto the bottom pulley. You begin to lose patience when it keeps slipping off on side or the other. Eventually it was on, but only seated properly on the left and ride side but not the bottom of the pulley. Since it's grooved I couldn't just slide it over. So took a chance, started up the engine and it luckily spun itself on correctly. After having gone through that entire process I could now easily do this in a much quicker time, just needed to go through a learning process first. Wish I had taken pictures or even a video to help others, but by the time I got done and tested my car to make sure it was running good it was 1am, I was ready for bed. But it is something that anybody could do themselves and most of the work you do will be from the bottom side with the tire removed, only need to access the top for one of the belt tensioners. Hope that helps anybody else that wants to attempt it themselves. Also, even with over 96,000 miles the belts still looked good, and that's with New England weather.
 

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Thank you BCHLYF for sharing this! The engine start and spinning itself on correctly it's a valuable trick. Cheers.
 

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For the water pump belt you will save hours of frustration if you use the zip tie method. To do this zip tie the belt to the harmonic balancer and manually turn over the engine (I used a 4 way tire tool.). After a quarter rotation I put another zip tie under the drive belt and cut the first tie and continued to turn over the engine. There are good videos on YouTube

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Why not cut old water pump belt off with pair of side cutter,, whole lot faster (2 second belt removal)
 

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Hi, I just bought the 2 belts this week and may have my mechanic friend install them soon, and hopefully assist him. It is such a tight space to work in, but with the right tools it should be a snap for him.
Hopefully he can do it faster than this guy:
I attached some pics of the belt parts numbers.
 

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I had my second set of belts replaced at the dealer in August at 130K miles. $330 parts and labor.
Smart move, I remember your original belt failing at around 75K or so. Do you know if they installed new tensioners this time around too?
 

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What's the "change me" interval for the hybrid starter-generator belt on the 2011 model year? It's 60,000 miles on my 2016.
 

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What's the "change me" interval for the hybrid starter-generator belt on the 2011 model year? It's 60,000 miles on my 2016.
It's 30K for severe use, 60K for normal. My belts still look great at 62K but Supercell's broke at 74K, and Spectro went through 2 belts in a year, most likely due to a faulty tensioner or water pump pulley. I will see how the tensioners look and feel once we pull the belts off and see if they need replacing too.
 
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