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Discussion Starter #1
I just searched around here for different terms like audio, amplifier, speakers, etc. but couldn't find anything conclusive about this specific bit:

I'm planning to install an aftermarket head-unit and will be using an Alpine KTP-445U amp, like a lot here do. My question is, assuming I continue using the stock speakers (or even assume they're all replaced and there are still six separate channels to be driven), how do some of you go about wiring this? Do I use the amp to drive all six channels, use part of the built-in amp on the head-unit to drive a set of speakers, or are others supplementing this amp with another? It's a 2011 GLS with the base stereo. I feel like I'm overlooking an obvious solution in previous topics, but I honestly couldn't find one.
 

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The obvious solution is that you can't use a 4 channel amp to power 6 channels. You would use this on your 4 door speakers only, or whichever set of 4 speakers you wanted to amplify.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Right, I figured as much, but wasn’t sure. As far as I’ve seen though, others have been restoring full use of all their speakers after installing an aftermarket head-unit, amp, and speakers. I just haven’t been able to find out how. I’m guessing if that’s the case, perhaps it’s with two separate amplifiers, with one just driving one pair of speakers?
 

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You can connect more than one speaker to a given amplifier channel, but then you run into the question of impedance ("resistance") of the multiple speakers.
If your front amplifier channels each have a 6" cone in the lower door and the little inch-or-so halfassedtweeter in the upper door, you have four wires to connect - two '+' and two '-'.
If you twist the two '+' together and the two '-' together, the total impedance will he half of what's stamped on the back of the speaker. Two 8 ohm speakers wired this way (in parallel) present a 4 ohm load on the amplifier. Two 4 ohm speakers result in a 2 ohm load. I suspect Hyundai uses 8 ohm front speakers (4 ohm total between the two fronts) and 4 ohm rear speakers. The little speaker should have (but not sure it does) a small capacitor in series to block lower frequency energy that could cause damage/distortion.


Suggestion - Determine which pin-out on the radio is the left front door on the connection on the back of the radio. Use a multimeter to measure DC resistance. It should be 3 ohms or more. If so, you should be fine to just amp the speakers just as they are. Any aftermarket amp worth its salt can drive a 3 ohm load as long as you aren't trying to reproduce a jet takeoff sound at actual volume.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You can connect more than one speaker to a given amplifier channel, but then you run into the question of impedance ("resistance") of the multiple speakers.
If your front amplifier channels each have a 6" cone in the lower door and the little inch-or-so halfassedtweeter in the upper door, you have four wires to connect - two '+' and two '-'.
If you twist the two '+' together and the two '-' together, the total impedance will he half of what's stamped on the back of the speaker. Two 8 ohm speakers wired this way (in parallel) present a 4 ohm load on the amplifier. Two 4 ohm speakers result in a 2 ohm load. I suspect Hyundai uses 8 ohm front speakers (4 ohm total between the two fronts) and 4 ohm rear speakers. The little speaker should have (but not sure it does) a small capacitor in series to block lower frequency energy that could cause damage/distortion.


Suggestion - Determine which pin-out on the radio is the left front door on the connection on the back of the radio. Use a multimeter to measure DC resistance. It should be 3 ohms or more. If so, you should be fine to just amp the speakers just as they are. Any aftermarket amp worth its salt can drive a 3 ohm load as long as you aren't trying to reproduce a jet takeoff sound at actual volume.
Perfect, thanks. :thumbsup:
 

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When you say you going to drive 6 speakers, does that include the tweeters on the dash and did you buy a speaker set of matched mid-range and tweeter?
If you did then you can just run the amp output into the provided crossover and then split the outputs to the mids in the doors and the tweeters in the dash.
When I installed a system in my Altima years ago I used a 5 channel Alpine amp and ran line level coax from the head unit to the trunk to feed the inputs on amp.
There were a total of 5 RCA cables running to the back - FR, FL, RR, RL and sub input.
I then ran wire to all 4 corner speakers and then to the sub in the trunk.
A crossover fed the door speakers and the tweeters on the A-pillars.
 

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The Sonata only has 4 channels. Front left and right and rear left and right. The dash speakers are 2-3/4-inch tweeters, hooked to the door speakers through a single capacitor (the crossover). This means that the left front door and the left dash is one channel, same for the right front.

My opinion:
I would not worry about the rear speakers unless you spend alot of time in the back seat.

I do use an Alpine KTP-445U, it is mounted under the factory radio.



The radio front channel is hooked to a JL Audio CleanSweep (mounted under the console) and from there it hooks to the Alpine KTP-445U. The door speakers were replaced with a pair of Kenwood 7-inch component speakers. The Kenwood 7-inch mount without any adapters or mods




The dash speakers were replaced with Polk Audio 3-1/2-inch speakers.



So now I have a (kind of) six channel system. The rear speakers are completely unchanged. Two channels. The Alpine amp gets its input only from the radio front channel. From the amp it splits from 2 channels to 4 channels.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
When you say you going to drive 6 speakers, does that include the tweeters on the dash and did you buy a speaker set of matched mid-range and tweeter?
If you did then you can just run the amp output into the provided crossover and then split the outputs to the mids in the doors and the tweeters in the dash.
When I installed a system in my Altima years ago I used a 5 channel Alpine amp and ran line level coax from the head unit to the trunk to feed the inputs on amp.
There were a total of 5 RCA cables running to the back - FR, FL, RR, RL and sub input.
I then ran wire to all 4 corner speakers and then to the sub in the trunk.
A crossover fed the door speakers and the tweeters on the A-pillars.
What I eventually intend to do is what most people have done so far, and that's replace the dash speakers not with custom-fit tweeters, but with 3-1/2" coaxial speakers. All four doors will receive standard coaxial speakers as well; I'm a little too lazy to do component installations these days like past cars. :blush-anim-cl:

That said...

The Sonata only has 4 channels. Front left and right and rear left and right. The dash speakers are 2-3/4-inch tweeters, hooked to the door speakers through a single capacitor (the crossover). This means that the left front door and the left dash is one channel, same for the right front.

My opinion:
I would not worry about the rear speakers unless you spend alot of time in the back seat.

I do use an Alpine KTP-445U, it is mounted under the factory radio.

...

The radio front channel is hooked to a JL Audio CleanSweep (mounted under the console) and from there it hooks to the Alpine KTP-445U. The door speakers were replaced with a pair of Kenwood 7-inch component speakers. The Kenwood 7-inch mount without any adapters or mods

...

The dash speakers were replaced with Polk Audio 3-1/2-inch speakers.

...

So now I have a (kind of) six channel system. The rear speakers are completely unchanged. Two channels. The Alpine amp gets its input only from the radio front channel. From the amp it splits from 2 channels to 4 channels.
Mmm, that is a clean OEM enhancement. I was thinking of installing components in the front doors and putting the tweeters in the piece of trim that covers the mirror mounts (as I've done on past cars; I like the look and location), I'm just too lazy these days.

I'm assuming with your setup, since you're still using the stock radio, that the rear speakers are being driven by the built-in amplifier? If that's the case, perhaps I could do similarly with the new head-unit: drive the dash and front door speakers with the Alpine amp, and allow the head-unit's built-in amp to drive the rear speakers. Or some variant of such. I was originally thinking of having the head-unit drive the dash speakers since they don't require much RMS, and that way, fading front to rear from the head-unit wouldn't be tricky since I could level out the gain on the Alpine amp to match what's being output by the head-unit.
 

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If you install a real head unit, then install a real amplifier. The KTP is best for boosting OE headunits. Its real nothing special.

Most quality amps are 2-ohm capable. So, you just run the front doors/dash in parallel and all is well. If you want, you can crossover the frequencies for the speakers which will reduce the load on the amp and improve the sound quality.

I went with the 7" Kenwood coaxials in both the front and rear doors and FaitalPro 3FE's in the dash. The stock head unit has just enough power for my listening levels, and I don't need a sub. Obviously, I'll either install an amp, or get a new headunit. The car is not really worth the investment.

My recommendation is to start with some basic soundproofing... doors/trunk maybe the floor... then the headunit, speakers, amplifier(if needed)....
 

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What I eventually intend to do is what most people have done so far, and that's replace the dash speakers not with custom-fit tweeters, but with 3-1/2" coaxial speakers.
Keep in mind that modification to both the dash and the speaker is required to make a 3-1/2-inch speaker work in the dash. ted2013gt and myself are the only two members that I know of thats done this.
ted2013gt picture can be seen here post #16


Mmm, that is a clean OEM enhancement. I was thinking of installing components in the front doors and putting the tweeters in the piece of trim that covers the mirror mounts (as I've done on past cars; I like the look and location), I'm just too lazy these days.
Personal Preference, I didn't like that location but many people do.

I'm assuming with your setup, since you're still using the stock radio, that the rear speakers are being driven by the built-in amplifier?
Yes, that's right

If that's the case, perhaps I could do similarly with the new head-unit: drive the dash and front door speakers with the Alpine amp, and allow the head-unit's built-in amp to drive the rear speakers. Or some variant of such. I was originally thinking of having the head-unit drive the dash speakers since they don't require much RMS, and that way, fading front to rear from the head-unit wouldn't be tricky since I could level out the gain on the Alpine amp to match what's being output by the head-unit.
And that's what I did, the dash and front door components are powered by the Alpine Amp . And yes, in my case the amp HAD to be balanced (dash and door speakers) prior to putting the car back together because the amp is under the factory radio and no longer easily accessible.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Keep in mind that modification to both the dash and the speaker is required to make a 3-1/2-inch speaker work in the dash. ted2013gt and myself are the only two members that I know of thats done this.
ted2013gt picture can be seen here post #16



Personal Preference, I didn't like that location but many people do.


Yes, that's right


And that's what I did, the dash and front door components are powered by the Alpine Amp . And yes, in my case the amp HAD to be balanced (dash and door speakers) prior to putting the car back together because the amp is under the factory radio and no longer easily accessible.
Got it. In all, it sounds reasonable, and the modifications made for the dash speakers aren't too frightening (though it's ironic I'm willing to do work there rather than install tweeters in the doors). I'm starting by replacing the head-unit and installing the amplifier, then I'll worry about replacing the speakers later. Depending, I may run separate wires for the dash speakers to the amp once replaced, most likely through an HPF.
 

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Got it. In all, it sounds reasonable, and the modifications made for the dash speakers aren't too frightening (though it's ironic I'm willing to do work there rather than install tweeters in the doors). I'm starting by replacing the head-unit and installing the amplifier, then I'll worry about replacing the speakers later. Depending, I may run separate wires for the dash speakers to the amp once replaced, most likely through an HPF.
The Alpine Amp has a built in High Pass Crossover, just turn it on and set it to 120Hz for the 3-1/2-inch speakers. For added protection, I would highly recommend a Non-Polar Electrolytic capacitor around 199-MicroFarad (99-MicroFarad if you get bass happy) and place it inline, on the positive wire between the amp and the dash speakers. It will protect the speakers.

NO Capacitors on the door speakers.

Here is a link to a 150-MicroFarad [ame]https://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-150uF-Non-Polarized-Capacitor/dp/B0002KR4D4[/ame]

You will need to run separate wires to the dash speaker, easy to do in the Sonata
 
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