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Discussion Starter #1
Bellow are the steps and video on how to change the fluid to your 2WD Santa Fe Sport.
1. Take large plastic cover off

2. Remove the drain bolt (has a shallow head)

3. While it's draining, remove the 2 plastic screws from the intake front line that comes out of the intake box and pull the line towards you and up.

4. With a 3/8 ratchet extensioner, remove the fill plastic bolt.

5. Remove the level cover with a 3/8 ratchet.

6. Clean and screw drain bolt back in

7. Insert pan under level hole, and start filling through top hole using a long funnel. When fluid starts leaking through the level hole, it means your transmission is full.

8. Screw fill bolt and level cover back on.

9. Shift through P, R, N, & D. Make sure everything feels smooth and not worse than it did before.

10. Put back bottom plastic cover.

 

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Hate to bearer of bad news,,, you is supposed to fill with engine at idle,, and oil dribble out,, shift through a couple time, verify level while still at idle, then cap it all off..
 

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how much drains out vs the complete fill volume? usually like 30% or so, so you can never totally change it
 

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how much drains out vs the complete fill volume? usually like 30% or so, so you can never totally change it

The 6 speeder seen here will run 5qt ATF when I end up doing trans temp sensor in them

Start drain Fri after work, leave sit overnight and the 14mm hex plug on bottom of trans below the inspect port,, leave it sit and drip till Saturday afternoon,, you get 6qt
 
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Getting 5 liters out of 7 isnt bad.

Thats approx 70% change. They say never for regular use, and 100K km for heavy use. Still, 100K km on ATF looks like asking for trouble to me.
I would probably consider a drain and fill every 60 000km or so.

Lubricants

Item
Specified lubricant
Quantity
Transaxle fluid
SK ATF SP-Ⅳ, MICHANG ATF SP-Ⅳ,NOCA ATF SP-Ⅳ, Hyundai Genuine ATF SP-Ⅳ or other brands meeting the above specification approved by Hyundai Motors Corp.
7.1L
(1.88 U.S gal., 7.50 U.S.qt., 6.24 Imp.qt.)
 

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Lubricants

Item
Specified lubricant
Quantity
Transaxle fluid
SK ATF SP-Ⅳ, MICHANG ATF SP-Ⅳ,NOCA ATF SP-Ⅳ, Hyundai Genuine ATF SP-Ⅳ or other brands meeting the above specification approved by Hyundai Motors Corp.

Current fluid for refill is Hyundai SP4-M since 2010

00232-19057
 
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In fact fill is 7.8L, so 5/7.8= 65% change per drain and fill.

so, you need the hyundai fluid, or just buy compatible SP-IV synthetic?

My 2017 manual lists ATF SP-IV fluid.
Valvoline max life atf is compatible with : Hyundai SP-II, SP-III, SP-IV, SPH-IV, SP4-M, SP-IV-RR

Opinions?
 

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FWIW:

Hyundai Santa Fe: Fluid. Repair procedures - Hydraulic System - Automatic Transaxle System - Hyundai Santa Fe DM 2013-2017 Service Manual

I have had very good luck from both my Hyundai. I do self service and maintain them very well.

However, Hyundai service manuals are the most poorly written I have ever had to use. Despite that, I have been able to muddle through. My other cars are older GM, Honda, Toyota who all do excellent manuals.

The trend now is to not issue or sell any printed manuals which is unfortunate.

As mentioned, the car should be level for an accurate atf change.

The You Tube is poorly done.
 

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Ok so your vote is for the hyundai fluid.
Was the same with my maxima, k matic nissan fluid only... I still have 2 liters in the garage.

will do a drain and fill at 60 000km
 

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My maintenance manual for the 2011 Hyundai Sonata has no maintenance schedule for the transmission oil and my mechanic indicated that it is not supposed to be changed.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The main enemy of AT transmissions is heat. As oil gets older, it loses it's lubricating and cooling properties. If you want your transmission to last longer, change it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hate to bearer of bad news,,, you is supposed to fill with engine at idle,, and oil dribble out,, shift through a couple time, verify level while still at idle, then cap it all off..
How much more are you able to add when at idle and shifting? I got about 5 qts out and about the same back in. I wasn't aware of cars needing to be at idle for Hyundais.
 

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The main enemy of AT transmissions is heat. As oil gets older, it loses it's lubricating and cooling properties. If you want your transmission to last longer, change it.

I think a lot of car companies have gone to these "lifetime" oils trying to tout no maintenance needed here. In reality, if you keep your car a long time, they need to at least be changed out in the 100k time area(at the very least).
 

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My maintenance manual for the 2011 Hyundai Sonata has no maintenance schedule for the transmission oil and my mechanic indicated that it is not supposed to be changed.
Well, according to Hyundai, that would depend on your driving. Take a look at their list, and figure out if your driving is 'severe' or not. But be very careful about this decision, because there's no middle ground. If your driving is severe, then you need to have the fluid serviced at 60K miles. However, if you're not severe, then the fluid magically becomes lifetime, and will never need to be changed.

But you probably do some of the things on their list at various times. So, would you like to be 'moderately severe' or 'somewhat severe', and change the fluid at let's say 80K, or 100K. Sorry that's not possible, so don't make a mistake in how you decide.

I can't imagine how they could have made this transmission fluid maintenance any more ludicrous than what they chose.
 

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it's really not that hard to drain and fill every 60 000km or so just to make sure....
 

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If you're going to change the transmission fluid, wouldn't it make sense to flush it so that that you know you are changing ALL of the fluid instead of only about 3/4 of it?
 

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Flush makes more sense, any youtube video on how to do the easy flush yourself using the transmission pump to dump into a bucket?

On my 2004 maxima, I wasnt able to do that, because it wasnt oil lines coming out, it was coolant lines coming in... so all I could do is drain and fill (which helped TREMENDOUYSLY with the shifting issues). It fixed my transmission in fact, from hard shifting issues to perfectly smooth.
 

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If you're going to change the transmission fluid, wouldn't it make sense to flush it so that that you know you are changing ALL of the fluid instead of only about 3/4 of it?
It would make sense to flush but to me it depends on the ease of making the connection to the tranny line and not everyone wants to wrench those lines, sometimes a leak can result. But if one can manage to drain 5 qts out of 7, that's 70% new and then if a 2nd drain and fill is done that would likely get you to maybe 85% new fluid - that's a rough estimate I'm sure someone with better math skills could get a better number. You might use a quart or 2 less with a flush and get very close to 100% new.
These newer ATF fluids are generally synthetic and very robust - but depending on your driving style - the fluid gets dirty mostly from wearing of the clutches so more city driving = more wear, and more wear with more aggressive acceleration style. So if you do a lot of highway miles - they likely will go 100k miles or more.
With a dipstick a bit easier to check the coloration of the fluid - which IMO gives you the best indication of condition, but you can also extract a small sample from the fill port. But few if any mfgs say make the decision based on coloration - easier to give a number of miles based on driving style.
 
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