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Here are the official instructions printed out for me by my dealers service dept. You should probably never need to do this. I screwed up and mistakenly drained the fluid in my trans by mistake. :eek: The guide says if you have severe use of your vehicle then you should replace ATF every 60k miles.


elntra tranny info by Doug in Idaho, on Flickr

You will need aprox 5 liters of transmission fluid. Use only the type specified in the back of your owners manual. This cost me $20 a liter from my dealer. You will also need a long narrow funnel. The instructions also recommend replacing the gaskets on all 3 plugs when doing this procedure.

Step 1: Remove the transmission drain plug from bottom of transmission case. This will drain aprox 5 liters of fluid. Allow time for all fluid to drain.

Step 2: Re-install drain plug and tourqe to 34.3 - 44.1 NM (3.5 - 4.5 kgf.m, 25.3 - 32.6 lb-ft)

Step 3: Unscrew filler eyebolt (see below...front slightly to the right of the engine). I found that the my socket wrench extension fit perfectly into the square opening in the middle of the eyebolt.


elntra tranny info by Doug in Idaho, on Flickr

Step 4: Insert your funnel into the opening and start adding fluid very slowly. I found that it liked to back up and overflow if I went to fast. It took about 30 mins for me to get all the fluid in without it backing up and out of the opening. The instructions call for adding 5 liters but the service counter guy recommended going with only 4.5 liters at least until you can check the level.

Now time to check the fluid level. The instructions say this is easier with vehicle on a lift.

Step 1. Start the engine (don't step on brake and accelerator at same time.)

Step 2. Confirm the temperature of the A/T oil temp sensor is 50-60 C (122-140F) with the GDS.

Step 3. Shift the select lever slowly from P to D then D to P and repeat once more at idle. Leave in each position for at least 2 seconds.

Step 4. Lift the vehicle then remove the oil level check plug from the front side of the transmission case (see first diagram above)

Step 5. (note vehicle must be at a level state) If the oil flows out of the overflow (level check) plug in a thin steady stream then the oil level is correct. If excess oil flows out in a thick stream you have an excess fluid level condition. If no oil flows out you have a shortage situation and need to add additional fluid.

Step 6. Once the level is correct tighten the overflow/level check plug and then re-install the eyebolt on the filler opening. Torque to (4.9 - 5.9 NM (0.5 - 0.6 kgfm, 3.6 - 4.3 lb-ft)

Step 7. Clean up any fluid on painted surfaces in the engine bay as fluid is corrosive to paint.

Step 8. Beer! :D
 

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Nice write-up. For now, I'll skip steps 1-7 and proceed straight to #8.
 

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Nice work, doug_id. This is the sort of content that makes hyundai-forums.com such a great resource.

Score one for the do-it-yourselfers :)
 

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it would be nice to drain the torque converter as it's still loaded with old oil. can you just drain it by starting the engine and idle a short period of time in neutral? this afternoon I'm taking my GF's 2004 Accent to the dealer for a tranny oil change, they told me they would drain also the torque converter and when the car leaves the dealer only new oil is in the tranny. They also remove the pan and change the filter for a total of $158
 

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I am struck by occasional bouts of stupidity :eek:
Ha it happens to us all. This is a lot more difficult than my Focus that had trans dipstick. After the last pan drop and filter replacement I decided Im done servicing my own transmission.
 

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"Step 2. Confirm the temperature of the A/T oil temp sensor is 50-60 C (122-140F) with the GDS."

My bf did the same thing and removed the drain plug for the tranny instead of the engine oil. i was wondering since i dont have a lift, is it still possible to check the level?

how do you test the temp? is this an important thing when filling tranny? what is GDS?

Thank You
 

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it would be nice to drain the torque converter as it's still loaded with old oil. can you just drain it by starting the engine and idle a short period of time in neutral? this afternoon I'm taking my GF's 2004 Accent to the dealer for a tranny oil change, they told me they would drain also the torque converter and when the car leaves the dealer only new oil is in the tranny. They also remove the pan and change the filter for a total of $158
the design's probably different. newer models filters are lifetime use (probably because new machines don't make as much shavings, and the drain bolt is magnet)

to "drain" torque converter, on my car, which drains 3.3qt a time,

i do it once, drive around for a week, come back, do it again, drive for a week, then do it again, so 3 times, and it goes from
100% contamination to 70%, then 49% then 34.3% (about 10qt total capacity) so... if you get it :p it makes me warm and fuzzy inside and sleep well.


Nice write-up. For now, I'll skip steps 1-7 and proceed straight to #8.
ME TOO

"Step 2. Confirm the temperature of the A/T oil temp sensor is 50-60 C (122-140F) with the GDS."

My bf did the same thing and removed the drain plug for the tranny instead of the engine oil. i was wondering since i dont have a lift, is it still possible to check the level?

how do you test the temp? is this an important thing when filling tranny? what is GDS?

Thank You
just run the car through WITH WHEELS IN THE AIR, through all shifter positions and listen to a song in park, it'll get you right to 140F.
(am i wrong? i personally never worked on this particular MD but most of the time warming up gets it to warm then driving makes it hot (200F))
 

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"step 2. Confirm the temperature of the a/t oil temp sensor is 50-60 c (122-140f) with the gds."

my bf did the same thing and removed the drain plug for the tranny instead of the engine oil. I was wondering since i dont have a lift, is it still possible to check the level?

How do you test the temp? Is this an important thing when filling tranny? What is gds?

Thank you
:00000732:
 

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Can anyone confirm, is the transmission fluid level checked with the engine still running? That is how I read the service manual procedure, start engine, go from P to R to N to D back to P and check level when fluid temp is between 122-140F with the engine still running?
Thanks.
 

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can anyone confirm, is the transmission fluid level checked with the engine still running? That is how i read the service manual procedure, start engine, go from p to r to n to d back to p and check level when fluid temp is between 122-140f with the engine still running?
Thanks.
:00000732::00000732:
 

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the design's probably different. newer models filters are lifetime use (probably because new machines don't make as much shavings, and the drain bolt is magnet)

to "drain" torque converter, on my car, which drains 3.3qt a time,

i do it once, drive around for a week, come back, do it again, drive for a week, then do it again, so 3 times, and it goes from
100% contamination to 70%, then 49% then 34.3% (about 10qt total capacity) so... if you get it :p it makes me warm and fuzzy inside and sleep well.
that must cost a lot in fluid !!!
 

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I wonder if one could use a fluid extractor in the filler eyebolt. You could possibly extract 4 quarts or so and then fill it up with the exact amount of fluid you extracted. Seems it would be much easier if it worked.
 

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:dry: :dry: :dry:

Classic case in point. I didn't even notice this thread was almost a year old.
 

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how do you test the temp? is this an important thing when filling tranny? what is GDS?
Thank you for posting the info, but there are some things that should not be DIY, IMHO.

I don't DIY the transmission drain and fill on my 2002 Focus - not that I couldn't do it, but b/c there is no drain bolt and it is messy to pull the pan and dump the fluid and expensive if you mess it up and $185 at a shop is worth more than my aggravation at this point.

From the thread above -

Step 2. Confirm the temperature of the A/T oil temp sensor is 50-60 C (122-140F) with the GDS.

GDS is a Hyundai dealer laptop system that plugs into the OBDII port. (If you are familiar with Toyota - TIS is their version of the same system) - http://www.hyundai-forums.com/general-hyundai-non-model-specific-discussion/137610-gds-download.html - A legitimate copy will cost you at least $2K (there are pirated versions that we won't discuss here).

My point is I would rather pay $200 every 60K miles (if keeping the car long term) and have at least a short warranty on the work.
 
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