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How To: 2010 Accent after market radio install (single din)

Parts Required:
- JVC KD-R810bt or similar single din deck.
- Metra dash kit for 2010 Accent, pn:99-7321 (found this to mount flush using the oem din install option)
- Best Kits wiring harness for 2008 Kia Rio, pn:BHA1004 (the 2010 accent kit did not fit my oem harness)
- 10-32x1/2" tapered screws for flush din mounting.

Tools Required:
- solder iron 25-40W
- electronic solder
- wire strippers
- Phillips screw driver
- electrical tape
- knife or scissors
- zip ties

Recommended Number of People
- 1 person

Difficulty
- 3 ,a very simple yet effective mod.

Time to complete
- 1h taking your time, 30 minutes should be soldering and wire prep.

Step by Step Instructions

1) Open your new radio and grab the connection harness, solder the new radio harness to your new bestkits adapter harness, follow the color guide on the back of the harness package.
- tape off all the connections.



2) If you plan to use an amp split the blue/white (radio harness) to the blue (bestkits harness) use an extra long piece of wire and solder it in.
***** ensure the blue/white to the blue wire is connected between the two adapters, failing to do so will result is poor AM/FM reception.


3) Mount your new radio inside the metra dash kit OEM DIN brackets using the 10-32x1/2" screws.
***** you may have to trim the bottom of the Metra dash kit brackets to fit your car.



4) Find your self a 2010 Hyundai Accent and open the glove box, remove the two tabs on the sides and allow the glove box to fully open.
- the tabs lift in-ward then are pushed back, they will come out.


5) Reach up and in to push out the trim surrounding the oem radio. Feel for the closest snap and push on it, once its off the entire trim will come out.
- unplug the hazard, defog and clock cables from the trim, then set the trim aside.

6) Unscrew the 4 phillips screws holding the oem radio in place, undo the rear wiring harness and unplug the antenna. Take OEM radio attach to a chain and use as boat anchor.

7) Plug in your new made and soldered and properly tapped off wiring harness, then plug it in your radio along with the antenna to test and ensure everything is working.



8) OPTION: Connect auxiliary microphone under the windshield. Remove driver side a-pillar trim, run microphone cable down the a-pillar and under the dash to the radio.
- the trim is held in place by one screw at the top, it comes out by pulling towards you and inwards.
****** ENSURE the microphone wire is not interfering with steering wheel or pedals, tape microphone wire if you have too, use electrical tape.




9) If everything is working, AM, FM, CD, Aux input, Microphone, etc, great! Take your new wiring harness and wrap it in a small cloth and zip tie it. (cloth will prevent rattling)
- screw your new radio into the dash using oem screws and replace the surrounding trim ensuring you plug in your hazards and deffoger and clock back in.
****** If your have an issue go back and check your wiring. 99% of electrical problems are caused by bad wiring.
****** ENJOY YOUR NEW RADIO




This is a very very easy mod, even if you can solder, most electronic repair stores will do this for you for like $10.

Thanks,

TheNEWB
 

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QUOTE (burnitwithfire @ Nov 21 2010, 03:00 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=373600
Nice work man! I love installing head units.
Ya man, i really enjoyed this little project. Had some help from the community figuring out our radio antenna is amplified so I wanted to give something back. This little guide should help folks avoiding some problems and hopefully shows how easy this project is.

BEST PART! The audio quality is VASTLY improved. :) Especially the bass and mids.
 

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Nice work! Only thing I did different was I used heatshrink tubing and wire loom to make it look like a factory install.
 

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QUOTE (TheNEWB @ Nov 21 2010, 06:01 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=373638
Ya man, i really enjoyed this little project. Had some help from the community figuring out our radio antenna is amplified so I wanted to give something back. This little guide should help folks avoiding some problems and hopefully shows how easy this project is.

BEST PART! The audio quality is VASTLY improved. :) Especially the bass and mids.
Just wait until you replace the stock speakers :grin: The OEM HU looks good but the sound quality isn't that great.
 

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QUOTE
5) Reach up and in to push out the trim surrounding the oem radio. Feel for the closest snap and push on it, once its off the entire trim will come out.
- unplug the hazard, defog and clock cables from the trim, then set the trim aside.
I have spent hours trying to get the fascia off a 2011 accent. These snaps will. not. budge. Please elaborate on how you get them to come off.





What am I supposed to do here?

Keep in mind that we're digging in through the open glove box.
 

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QUOTE (tuberculosis @ Dec 4 2010, 05:55 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=376971
I have spent hours trying to get the fascia off a 2011 accent. These snaps will. not. budge. Please elaborate on how you get them to come off.





What am I supposed to do here?

Keep in mind that we're digging in through the open glove box.


Needle nose pliers, those snaps compress.

I just shoved mine out. It worked :D and my dash is still scratch free :)
 

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I really like how you removed your fascia! That is very clever! Next time I need to do that I will follow your method. I used the screw driver method and I think I got lucky because my dash is scratch free.

Did you have to do any filing or cutting of the screw holes on the Metra kit? It seems like everything lined up perfectly for you. I had to spend quite a bit of time opening up the holes.

-- Boris
 

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QUOTE (Powered by PopTarts @ Dec 6 2010, 01:06 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=377271
I really like how you removed your fascia! That is very clever! Next time I need to do that I will follow your method. I used the screw driver method and I think I got lucky because my dash is scratch free.

Did you have to do any filing or cutting of the screw holes on the Metra kit? It seems like everything lined up perfectly for you. I had to spend quite a bit of time opening up the holes.

-- Boris
Hi Boris,

No I just used those tapered screws to line up the kit and I was good to go. Use the included radio trim surround, I did not use the one from the JVC deck.

NEWB
 

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 Man, am I an idiot. :laughing:  I've tried your method for removal before and had 0 success.  Because I didn't have the smarts to compress the clips!  :p  I shall try this next time, thanks for the tip!  

I need to take it all apart again anyway, I have a few things I'd like to tweak with my current setup.
 

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QUOTE (hoosieraccent @ Dec 6 2010, 08:52 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=377490
 Man, am I an idiot. :laughing:  I've tried your method for removal before and had 0 success.  Because I didn't have the smarts to compress the clips!  :p  I shall try this next time, thanks for the tip!  

I need to take it all apart again anyway, I have a few things I'd like to tweak with my current setup.
No worries pal,

Maybe sticky this so others can use it as a reference?

NEWB
 

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NewB nice writeup!! I just finished installing a Pioneer MVH-8200BT and was very upset about the sudden quality loss of FM reception. Luckily I came across this thread and saw the blue wire->amp'd antennna issue. I always wondered why the OEM got such excellent reception!

Instead of ripping apart the a-pillar I mounted the BT mic to the leftmost inside of the lower-DIN compartment. Works like a charm and is hardly noticeable from outside the car!

Does anyone else have a problem with the Metra lower din compartment "bowing" in the middle? That's gotta be the only flaw to this kit...
 

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QUOTE (ahkenaden @ Dec 31 2010, 06:47 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=385265
Does anyone else have a problem with the Metra lower din compartment "bowing" in the middle? That's gotta be the only flaw to this kit...
*sigh* Yeah, mine was like that. It squeaked and creaked with every bump too. I went to Hobby Lobby and got some felt and stuck it on in random places which cured some of it, but not enough to keep me from going bonkers.

Fortunately the double-DIN kit of theirs I have now fits better doesn't make any noise.

So far you and I are the only ones complaining about the bowing. :thumbsup:
 

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QUOTE (hoosieraccent @ Dec 31 2010, 09:09 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=385299
*sigh* Yeah, mine was like that. It squeaked and creaked with every bump too. I went to Hobby Lobby and got some felt and stuck it on in random places which cured some of it, but not enough to keep me from going bonkers.

Fortunately the double-DIN kit of theirs I have now fits better doesn't make any noise.

So far you and I are the only ones complaining about the bowing. :thumbsup:
Happened with me too, but seemed to sort itself out somehow haha. It was MUCH worse with the Scosche or whatever brand one.

Btw, HAPPY NEW YEAR, Y'ALL (almost lol)
 

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QUOTE (ahkenaden @ Dec 31 2010, 06:47 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=385265
Instead of ripping apart the a-pillar I mounted the BT mic to the leftmost inside of the lower-DIN compartment. Works like a charm and is hardly noticeable from outside the car!

Does anyone else have a problem with the Metra lower din compartment "bowing" in the middle? That's gotta be the only flaw to this kit...
Smart idea that is, but I wanted the pocket empty in case i fill it up with CD's like I usually do. The stock trim has a piece of felt there that made my pocket convex like that also. I removed the felt and the convex flattened out.

QUOTE (hoosieraccent @ Dec 31 2010, 09:09 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=385299
*sigh* Yeah, mine was like that. It squeaked and creaked with every bump too. I went to Hobby Lobby and got some felt and stuck it on in random places which cured some of it, but not enough to keep me from going bonkers.

Fortunately the double-DIN kit of theirs I have now fits better doesn't make any noise.

So far you and I are the only ones complaining about the bowing. :thumbsup:
I placed 3M insulator sticky foam between the deck and the the lower din pocket and along the inside of the radio trim facia, (The black boarder around the face of the radio). All creaking and tapping ceased.


QUOTE (bloodninja @ Dec 31 2010, 09:43 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=385310
Happened with me too, but seemed to sort itself out somehow haha. It was MUCH worse with the Scosche or whatever brand one.

Btw, HAPPY NEW YEAR, Y'ALL (almost lol)
Happy new year Pal :D
 

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Excellent info, so I thought I'd add what I now know on my sons's new 2011 Accent Blue. I just put in a radio but could not get my hands or pliers on the trim panel clips behind, and the purchased tool for prying the front is fat and will definitely leave marks.

By the way, those glove box stops are pulled rearward from the box as in the attached photo. I struggled with the previously posted photo. But they can be pushed into the box from the outside and the box needs to be closed just a bit to pull them rearward and completely through their opening.

Since I couldn't seem to push out the extremely tight 2011 trim panel from behind and the pry tool was definitely a misfit, I just used a well worn small sheetrock spatula to pry from the front (other attached photo). It is much thinner than the purchased tool, and wrapping it with plastic sheet allows it to go into the crack for prying without leaving external marks. One of the top corners pryed out easily (just above the corner where it starts running a nearly straight crack).
 

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