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Discussion Starter #1
The bushing on the axle(driver side) is split open with grease going everywhere. Its the one right behind the wheel. Would it be easier to just replace the whole axle? And does anyone know the size of the crown nut on the axle? and would i be able to just pull an axle off another excel and use it? Thanks four your help
 

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you can try replacing the boot and putting new grease in there if you want to save some money - provided there's no damage. it would have to be thoroughly cleaned to get any debris out.

either way, you're pulling the axle out. its not a terrible job. 32mm castle nut on the end of the axle for the LC accent, i think its the same for yours.

remember that when you pop the axle out of the transmission side some of the trans oil will start to leak out. you can always put a plastic cone or something in there. check the seals for damage, i usually buy a couple when i do this job and take them back for a refund after if i don't use them.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I am having some trouble getting the new one back in. It doesnt slide in as easy as the other one slide out, and how do i know if the spines are in sync on the transmission end? does anyone have any tricks?
 

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Splines are self aligning it should just slide in.
Sometimes the retaining clip sliding in may require a bit of pressure for last inch of travel.

Always put a few drops of oil on the contact surface of the shaft that runs inside the lip seal, prevents rubber from tearing.
 

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yes there is a snap ring on the end. when you're putting the shaft back in the trans, put a thin layer of grease on the seal to prevent dry start. rubber seals will allow a very small amount of oil onto the seal which is actually what creates the seal to keep oil from flowing out. when the seal is dry, it can be torn. big mistake for novice engine rebuilders.

you'll know when you get the shaft and splines aligned. you'll get the shaft to go in about 3/4 of the way or more, and then it'll stop. grab the shaft with both hands and give it a good shove into the trans to get it past the snap ring. it'll lock in at this point.

is it just me or does this sound dirty?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for your help. Almost seemed to easy going back in. The whole reassembly took me about 30 minutes. Does anyone know the torque specifications for the driveshaft nut?
 

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you're lucky i'm drinking tonight, otherwise i'd tell you to get onto www.hmaservice.com and find it for yourself. i'm an ass like that. i believe in help yourself first. google and all that.

anyhow, your torque spec is 148-192 ft.lbs. since its a castle nut with a cotter pin, take it to the low end of the spec and tighten as necessary to line up the slots in the castle nut and the hole in the driveshaft.

easiest way i know of is to install your brakes and jam the brake pedal down with a breaker bar between the seat and the pedal. that way you can get the torque on it.
 

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Sometimes you need a large screwdriver or a pry bar; put it in the gap between tranny and axle knuckle and pry out wards.
Get ready to catch a liter/quart of tranny fluid that will spill out when axle is removed.
You will need to top up with new fluid afterwards.
 

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thats exactly how i do this job, in fact i would say always not sometimes.

prybar or large screwdriver between the transmission and the end of the driveshaft will pop it out like nothing.

by the way, that particular joint is designed to pull apart like that. its completely normal. only thing you did was tear the boot.
 

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Also it wouldn't hurt to jack up that side of the car to keep some of that fluid in the trans, I replaced both mine and the lower ball joints a few years ago because all the boots ripped in the -40 weather. It was cheaper to buy new aftermarket ones with neoprene boots that are rated for colder weather than to buy reman oem ones even with a core return. New ones didn't require a core so I tossed them.
 
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