Relieve fuel pressure, unbolt rail/regulator, disconnect all wiring, and pull rail out with injectors in tact. WATCH the o-rings on the injectors, don't let them fall into the intake, lube with something light prior to reinstall.
I have removed them on an XD and other vehicles with intake always in place.
Good avice about using lube ; Orings can harden up might want to have a set on hand.
Node lights can be put on harness to make sure power signal is getting there.
Injectors so seldom go on cars ; I had a Jeep with almost 240k miles and original injectors.
I recall you posting before about rough running. Something silly like a bad wire or plug can happen. Several years ago I had a motorcraft platinum plug fail after 2 months and 2k miles on an Aerostar. Almost disasembled half of car before I found it ; removed injectors and even rotated a used injector through a few cyclinder locations.
Injectors just pressed in; but really stiff o rings lots of wiggling required.
Yeah, I'd like to think it's something like a bad plug but I've replaced too many things now. Here's a list of what was replaced
Plug wires twice
Plugs three times
ECU temp sensor
Exhaust manifold with cat (huge crack)
Sea foam in the intake
Sea foam in the tank couple times
Idle air device
Checked for intake leaks -spray with carb cleaner
Cleaned intake a bunch of times
There's no codes, it runs better with premium fuel. It's gotten progressively worse over a year. Sometimes doesn't seem to happen at all. Runs better when warm. Runs better with lead foot. Runs worse when I feather the pedal back to save gas. Runs fine at highway speed (60mph +)
I'm ready to buy a whole intake assembly and try that, I think I should pull the fuel injectors and try to clean.
if it runs worse at lower rpm, i'd suspect a vacuum leak of sorts. where is your idle at? I've seen older vehicles lose the fuel injector o-rings (deterioration over time) and cause a vacuum leak. very difficult to pinpoint.
Okay. I replaced the O rings on the fuel injectors. Pain in the butt trying to do it with sausage fingers. Must be Korean revenge. Anyways, the initial test drive was highly positive, but I don't want to declare victory yet. Let you know in a week. Thanks for all the input.
They were not too bad methinks. Still pliable enough to get them off without breaking, no cracks, still round. #3 and #4 had some carbon around the injectors. Second test drive still misses a little, but still better than before. Jury still out. Keep you posted.
I took it to a mechanic today, and he was as stumped as I am. He said for sure he doesn't think it's an intake leak. He thought it was bad compression. Tomorrow I'll let him diagnose it for an hour's worth of time. He'll run a compression test, check the timing belt, etc. Look for something I missed.
My Elantra all of a sudden refuses to start using the starter/ignition key. It only cranks and backfires, but don't want to start. When I get my two sons to push the vehicle it starts very easy not even pushing further than about 5 meter and releasing the clutch in second gear. After that when I...
If you have a '96/'97/'98, could you look at your 16-pin OBD-II port on the car and let me know which terminals are populated? And the wire colors? Thanks!
If you have a '96/'97/'98 SM/ETM or access to them, could you look up in the SM Engine Electrical Systems section Cruise Control...
If you have a '99 or '98 Elantra … or a 2000 Elantra … or a '97 or '96 Elantra, could you please check the voltage with your multi-meter (DVOM) on your OBD-II DLC connector on the L-Line pin as shown in the attached file, and let me know the voltage?
I show exactly where the pin is, and I list...
Hyundai changed part of the OBD-II wiring at the end of 98, and I was hoping someone could look up a page for me. Thanks.
(It's possible a '96 SM or ETM might answer the question also, if someone has those.)