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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, nice forum you have here.

I need to replace my girlfriend's starter on her 2006 Sonata 3.3 V6. Her car is having the intermittent starting thing that i noticed some others are. We've already replaced the battery and the starter relay. The relay helped for a while but the car is back to having issues intermittently again. I figured i'd replace the starter now(with a new starter solenoid on it). Also, while im doing this i'll check for any loose or rusty grounds.

So, i've peeked under the hood and tried to follow the battery cables to find the starter but i havent been able to find it.

Is it under something? Do i need to remove the battery?

Hopefully someone can help me out or direct me somewhere with some instructions on how to do it?

Thanks a bunch!
 

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well, I looked at a pics of your size motor. I really have to assume that the access is from under the vehicle.... prob on the back towards firewall and must be over exhaust (looking up from under it) and attached to transmission. REMEMBER: disconnect battery 1st! If you want to be certain it is starter first either while it's still connected to battery, go under and check if you have constant 12v on main terminal and switch terminal should have 12v ONLY when key is "cranking"... hold key long enough to test for current. If all is as should be, continue to remove starter after disconnecting battery. Bench check both old (to be sure its bad) and new (so u don't install a defective one). Can be done at very store u purchase starter for free. Good Luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Go to www.hmaservice.com sign up and you have access to shop manuals, electrical schematics/wiring diagrams TSB (technical service bulletins) and more.
i already did that but they dont have anything too useful as far as locating the starter. the picture they provide is of just the starter and not the location of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
well, I looked at a pics of your size motor. I really have to assume that the access is from under the vehicle.... prob on the back towards firewall and must be over exhaust (looking up from under it) and attached to transmission. REMEMBER: disconnect battery 1st! If you want to be certain it is starter first either while it's still connected to battery, go under and check if you have constant 12v on main terminal and switch terminal should have 12v ONLY when key is "cranking"... hold key long enough to test for current. If all is as should be, continue to remove starter after disconnecting battery. Bench check both old (to be sure its bad) and new (so u don't install a defective one). Can be done at very store u purchase starter for free. Good Luck!
thanks, i didnt think to check under the car. i'll go check if it's there later when im off work.

unfortunately, i purchased the starter off amazon so no help there. :\

also, i dont have a voltmeter.

the main issue is that at most times, the car starts up perfectly fine. other times, the car wont even click but the lights and all electricals power up fine. i thought it was the starter relay in the fuse box as i had been able to swap it with a good one and get the car started (then i put the old relay back in and the car wouldnt start). After replacing the relay, the problem came back a few weeks later. So i figure it could be the starter solenoid. I decided to just purchase a replacement starter at that point since i notice the starter solenoid is included with the starter and the solenoid price alone is nearly the same price.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
ha, i have no way of doing any kind of electrical testing currently.

i do have the part here with me so i think i may just do the install and cross my fingers.

btw i found a diagram of where it's supposed to be. if the diagram is correct, it shows the front lower end of the engine.
http://autopartmaster.com/imgbank/cat/hyundai/[email protected]=3K0&sgrp=D0C002E9

hope it's not too hard to get to.

btw anyone know what size sockets/wrenches i'll need for this?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
You should check the harness going to the fuel pump. If it looks burnt that could be your problem.
im suspecting it's starter related because, like i said in the original post, i had temporarily fixed it by replacing the relay in the fusebox.

at the time, the car would not start so i swapped the starter relay with an equivalent from another part of the car. the car started right up. i put the original relay back in and the car did not start. swapped it again, the car started.
 

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YES,,, PAGE 2 is MINE !! :banana:




Starter is accessed from under car, couple panel need to come off first.

BE ADVISED,,, power supply been concern with this chassis..

Negative battery cable to body has poor contact.. it bolted to painted panel.. paint is an insulator, not a conductor.. remove cable, grind paint to bare metal, slap some grease on the bare metal, connect cable.


Ground strap from left frame rail (adjacent to battery tray) to trans case is another source of voltage drop.. paint on rail is insulator.. remove paint.. other end,,,, corrosion at lug to aluminum trans case.. remove bolt, clean it to bare/fresh aluminum, slap some grease, re-assemble.

Seen up to 2 volt drop in the ground circuit there.

Use a DVOM here:

Inspect charge voltage at battery at idle.. what you got ??

Move the positive test lead to the lug at rear of alternator.. what you got ?

You find more than 0.3 volt more at alternator lug, plan on Positive battery cable,, known problem for yrs, part number changed a long time ago on new part...

Turn lights on, what you get.. add wipers, HVAC fan on high, turn on high beams... what you got ?

Dont see much of any starter in the 3.3 Sonata, had a rash of starter with the 2.4 in the last yr...
 

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You should check the harness going to the fuel pump. If it looks burnt that could be your problem.

I have to disagree with Supernova88642... If car is not cranking, it would have nothing to do with fuel pump. Now if car was cranking and still didn't start, it would then be a possible theory.

Starting system is very basic. For starter to work...One main terminal constant positive, it's grounded by the body of bolted starter, and one other terminal switched on only when cranking with key through one relay in fuse box.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Starter is accessed from under car, couple panel need to come off first.
any hints as to exactly which panels need to come off? or does anyone have the pages of the service manual you share with me?

i really dont wanna have to take off the entire front end(bumper, all splash guards, wheel well, etc) if i dont have to.


when i get a multimeter, i'll check out the voltages at the points you suggest.
 

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well there's not much more to it and no manual i saw showed specifically what to take off.... Take some initiative and go under (use stands for safety) and there is a black plastic cover there.... maybe held in with plastic push pins. No need to remove bumper in the least. this is what IS in the manual though.....
STARTERREMOVAL1.Disconnect the battery negative cable.
2.Disconnect the starter cable (A) from the (B terminal on the solenoid (C), then disconnect the connector (D) from the S terminal (E).

3.Remove the 2 bolts holding the starter, then remove the starter.
4.Installation is the reverse of removal.
5.Connect the battery negative cable to the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
i HATE working on this car. ugh.

just finished putting in the new starter. Geez that was not fun.

some steps for anyone that attempts this.

first take off the plastic splash guard on the front driverside of the car. remove the air intake scoop thing from the hood area.

THE STARTER IS LOCATED UNDER A SILVER COLORED HEAT SHIELD DIRECTLY ABOVE THE EXHAUST DOWNPIPE THAT IS CONNECTED TO THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD.

There are three 10mm bolts that are attached to the heat shield. One of them attaches the o2 sensor wire to the shield.

I had to remove the two bolts that attach the starter to the car first, which are a pain in the butt to get to. One can be accessed from the bottom. It is hidden so you have to feel for it. The second can be accessed from the hood. If you removed that intake scoop, you will be able to see the bolt. Mine was marked blue from the factory. The thing about the top bolt, i couldnt get my extensions to fit so i had to use a crescent wrench and slowly turn it. A ratchet would have worked if i had like 1 inch extension. The 3 inch was too long.

Once the starter was loose, i figured i'd remove the power cable and the plastic connector thing. These are also hidden so you have to stick your fingers up from the bottom of the car and feel your way through it. The power connector is under a rubber cap.

At that point, the starter is disconnected but you'll realize it's stuck in there and there isnt enough clearance to get it out(along with the heat shield).

I was forced to remove the exhaust downpipe so that i had a bit more room. I had to move the pipe as far left as possible with the pipe bolt ending up in the pipe. This gave me just enough room to get the starter out. It's still tough but it'll come out. Just gotta play with the angles.

Then you gotta get the new one in and then it's feeling around to get everything connected all over again. Getting the exhaust pipe back to where it needed to be was a pain too. Just pull down the flange and push back on the back of the pipe to get it moving. It'll eventually work.

This took me about 4.5 hours. I wish someone had laid out tips like these before i started. Hopefully this helps someone else.
 

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There's nothing like first hand knowledge gathered from doing a job.
Did you (frank828) take the starter apart and determine what caused its failure?
Brushes worn out? Most common failure other than burned solenoid contacts.
 

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Thanks for you hints with how to do locate it and how to actually replace it. I am going to use your suggestions and see if I can beat your 4.5 hrs!
 

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So after reading your post and directions, I decided that I wanted to take a slightly different approach. Replacing the starter took about 3 hours and went like this.

How to locate and install a starter on a 2006 Hyundai Sonata 3.3L V6. Can be done in ~2 hours if you have your tools ready to go. You'll need a philips head screwdriver and a metric socket set. I used a combination deep well and 3" extensions and only needed 4 socket sizes. No jack is necessary.

Remove ground from battery. Starter can not be effectively tested until you get to it, so you really have to follow these steps for testing or for replacing.
1) Remove air intake. 3 plastic screws and lift upon the inserts.
2) Remove the radiator fan. Two screws in the top two corners, two clips on lower corners. (there is a plastic cover on the top left corner that can be removed with two screws, I did this but don't think it was necessary) The fan is tight to get out, but it can be done, just don't break anything.
3) Remove metal heat shield on top of exhaust manifold. 4 bolts. Unplug o2 sensor from clip. Use needle nose pliers to release plastic wire tie.
4) Remove top exhaust manifold. 8 nuts/threaded rod. 14mm
5) From underneath the car separate exhaust manifold from first section of exhaust pipe. 2 bolts 17mm. (I had already removed the drivers-side engine mud guard. I don't know if this is required, but if you need to remove it, it has 5 bolts and a plastic screw/clip)
6) Remove exhaust manifold.
7) The starter is not easy to identify because it has a shield protecting the wires. It is bolted to the engine using 2 long bolts that are threaded on the end. Both bolts are accessible on the transmission side / drivers side. The top one is obvious, but the second one you might have to search around with your fingers, but it is beneath the first one.
8) Remove single bolt holding main power wire and unplug the clip.
Reinstall in reverse order. Make sure you remount all the wires correctly to avoid future damage to wires.
 
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