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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,


Looking for a little help here. Our 2005 Santa Fe engine won't turn over using the key. We were able to jump the starter and get it running but the power isn't getting to the starter. Do these things ever have neutral safety switch problems? The dash lights up like normal by the way. What else should I be looking for?


Thanks for any suggestions!


Kevin
 

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What else should I be looking for?
The first thing I'd do is switch the ignition on and make sure the headlamps are working OK.

If that checks out OK, the next thing I'd do is check that power is being supplied to the alarm relay on the engine bay fusebox, assuming your car has one.
Remove the relay from the fusebox and have someone hold the ignition key in the start position. Now use a voltmeter/test light and check for voltage on each of the terminals of the relay socket on the fusebox. With the key in the start position you should have two terminals showing 12V.

If that checks out OK, refit the alarm relay and remove the start relay. Same drill again. With the key held in the start position check for voltage on each of the terminals of the relay socket in the fusebox. As with the alarm relay, you should have two terminals showing 12V.

Let us know the results of those tests and we can decide where to go next.

Scottie.

 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
The first thing I'd do is switch the ignition on and make sure the headlamps are working OK.

If that checks out OK, the next thing I'd do is check that power is being supplied to the alarm relay on the engine bay fusebox, assuming your car has one.
Remove the relay from the fusebox and have someone hold the ignition key in the start position. Now use a voltmeter/test light and check for voltage on each of the terminals of the relay socket on the fusebox. With the key in the start position you should have two terminals showing 12V.

If that checks out OK, refit the alarm relay and remove the start relay. Same drill again. With the key held in the start position check for voltage on each of the terminals of the relay socket in the fusebox. As with the alarm relay, you should have two terminals showing 12V.

Let us know the results of those tests and we can decide where to go next.

Scottie.

lights work


checked voltage @ B/Alarm relay = 12 volts when key is in RUN position and START position on 2 terminals.


checked voltage @ Start relay = 12 volts when key is in RUN position and START position on 2 terminals.


Voltage DOESN'T drop at start position as I previously posted.

Thanks for any further suggestions!



Kevin
 

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You have said that you were able to jump the starter and get it running so that says to me that any alarms/imobilisers have been disabled. That would tell me that the starter solenoid is not pulling in. Either because it isn't getting any power from the ignition switch or the solenoid itself has gone faulty.
 

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Try cranking while slightly moving the shiftier around. If it's a bad safety switch it may start while in gear though so beware.
 

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You have said that you were able to jump the starter and get it running so that says to me that any alarms/imobilisers have been disabled..
You might be right, Pete. I was assuming when he said he jumped the starter he meant he applied power directly to the starter motor from the car's battery. Maybe he just meant he jump started the engine from another vehicle??

If he jumped the starter motor, he would be bypassing the immobilizer/alarm.....and the ignition switch and the park/neutral switch. The tests I suggested in my previous post test all the components jumping the starter would bypass.
 

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lights work


checked voltage @ B/Alarm relay = 12 volts when key is in RUN position and START position on 2 terminals.


checked voltage @ Start relay = 12 volts when key is in RUN position and START position on 2 terminals.

Thanks for any further suggestions!
Next I'd remove the start relay again and connect the voltmeter as shown below and make sure you get 12V when the key is in the start position. The previous test was to check that voltage was passing though the park/neutral switch and getting to the relay. This test is to check that the relay coil ground is good.

If you get 12V with the key in the crank position, next do a relay bypass test.
Make sure the shifter is in park/neutral then use a short link wire to bridge the two terminals of the relay socket as shown in the second diagram below. If the engine cranks that suggests the start relay is faulty.


Voltage measurement to confirm the START relay
ground is good :



START relay bypass test :
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Next I'd remove the start relay again and connect the voltmeter as shown below and make sure you get 12V when the key is in the start position. The previous test was to check that voltage was passing though the park/neutral switch and getting to the relay. This test is to check that the relay coil ground is good.

If you get 12V with the key in the crank position, next do a relay bypass test.
Make sure the shifter is in park/neutral then use a short link wire to bridge the two terminals of the relay socket as shown in the second diagram below. If the engine cranks that suggests the start relay is faulty.


Voltage measurement to confirm the START relay
ground is good :


START relay bypass test :
Thanks Scottie, will do this test next. In answer to your previous post, we jumped the starter directly to bypass the entire system. That's the only way we could get it started.


Kevin
 

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I would check to see if the starter and solenoid is getting 12 volts when the key is turned to the start position
That would tell you right away if the starter is getting what it needs to crank the engine
If not then would trace backward to the ignition switch through the park/neutral safety switch.
 

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Starter Electrical Connection

Kevin,

In 40 plus years of driving I have two occasions where my starter
and or alternator cable connectors have developed a dull grey film that
has prevented current flow. Last winter, my 06 2.7L starter failed to
engage when the key was switched to "Start". After some head scratching,
I disconnected the battery cable at the starter and scuff sanded the
connector till it shined and reconnected it. It has started without flaw
since then. I know our fellow forum members are giving you good
theoretical fixes, however, I encourage you to take a step back and look
at this with "Simple Vision", yes, this is a stretch, but easy to resolve with
a small piece of 80 grit sandpaper and only takes a few minutes to
eliminate as the cause of your starter failure. Give it a shot.
Might want to disconnect the negative battery lead for the procedure.

Good luck,
Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Update, My friend/mechanic went back under to look at the starter connections again. He says the solenoid wire fell apart in his hand. He stripped the wire back and put the connector on it again. He said it looked like it had been very hot. He was able to start the SUV normally three times in a row. After he got it buttoned back up it wouldn't start again. After I get off work tonight we're probably going to replace as much of that wire as we can before it gets to the wire loom.




Kevin
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Update, Starter is working with key now. Connection to solenoid was severely corroded/oxidized. Replaced connector with new. We also tweaked the spade connectors under the starter relay since it felt a little loose.

Planning to drive it for awhile to confirm connections are all good. Carrying jumper wire just in case of another problem.

Thanks for everyone's help, especially Scottie.

Kevin
 
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