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Discussion Starter #1
So I just recently moved into my MIL trailer park for a couple of months, so it’s been rather difficult doing car work in the road with all of my tools in off-site storage. I have been trying to troubleshoot this issue for 2 weeks, and I’m at the end of my rope, so I came here looking for suggestions or guidance. It’s also rather long, so I won’t always use complete sentences.

Car:
07 Accent (standard, hatchback) 150,000 miles
Timing belt broke last summer, rebuilt the head, been running fine.

History:
Started with the issue of not starting immediately after fueling. Its my wife’s daily, so I didn’t experience it, but she would have to wait 20 mins before starting and drive off. It hadn’t thrown a code yet, so I just figured, its old dirty fuel filter. So ordered a new pump, opened the tank to discover it spotless and filter “clean” but dropped it in anyway, figuring it was still clogged but not visibly. But of course, the issue persisted. Then checked codes, looked it up and realized the issue was bad Purge Valve, so I ordered one OEM. Then, before it came in the mail, she called me saying it wouldn’t start, but wasn’t after a fueling. I got there, and I could start it, but it wouldn’t idle, and I had to baby the pedal to get it to run but kept dying. So I’d restart and try to get the rpms stable, but each time the condition deteriorated, over about 4 attempts (3 mins) until it was in Crank-No Start condition. So, we towed it home.

Troubleshooting:

First, I pull the Purge Valve and confirm its stuck open and replace it with the new one. No change.

Second, checked codes: P0171, bank 1 too lean. (Seemed really odd). But thought it was a bad fuel pump.

Checked, fuel pump good, pressure at the rail.

Checked for spark at the coil, good.

Checked intake/vacuum leaks, good.

Then thought, dang it’s the timing/belt broke again. Checked, timing belt is perfect condition (from rebuild).

So then thought, it’s the camshaft sensor because with air, fuel, spark and compression, it should at least start!

Grabbed one at the store, popped in, of course, no change. Just spins, with not even the slightest ignition.

Still was worried about the timing, so I spray it with ether, starts up and roars strong until it’s gone and then immediately dies. So I know the timing is at least close enough to run…

Pulled the plugs- THEY ARE WET! So I now realize its flooding, and confirm at the tail pipe, gas fumes. But why is it flooding?!

Check for the MAF- but it doesn’t have one, has MAP and instructions says it doesn’t need cleaning.

Check the fuel pressure regulator, but it DOESN’T have one…

So then I think, when I changed the pump, debris got in the line and the injectors are stuck open! (Or maybe the fuel pressure damper is bad)

So I pulled the rail, and turn the engine on and off, on and off hearing the pump kick on. But the injectors don’t leak a drop!

I air dry the cylinders open for a day and torch the plugs to make sure they are dry, then I test the plug hanging off the coil, to make sure they are sparking in the cylinder. Put it back, and crank, still no change.

Pull the plugs over and over after cranking, but NOW THEY ARE DRY, BUT STILL WON’T START!

Check for codes again, Pending code: P0118 Engine Coolant Temp Sensor circuit high input. (It does list “no start condition” as a symptom…)

Also, I have been testing the battery voltage, never went below 11.7, and have recharged it a few times to make sure it stays charged, to make sure I’m not getting insufficient voltage (including attempting to start while connected to my Subaru with quality cables.)

Needless to say, I’m frazzled and baffled. I have got to get this thing running, but I’m out of ideas… I don’t want to keep getting parts (like a new ECT sensor) and replacing them and hoping for the best. I HAVE to get this thing running, but I’m out of ideas…

Thanks in advance for anything that can steer me in the right direction!
 

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First thing I would do is take a look at the engine coolant temperature on the scan tool data list. A high signal voltage (P0118) means the temperature seen by the PCM will be super cold (usually about -30'C) which will cause too much fuel to be injected during start.

Have you checked the injector power supply and checked that there is injector control during crank?
 

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Well, using starter fluid to see that engine runs, usually means issues with fuel pump.
Should have left old fuel pump in. Replacing fuel pump to fix the stuck open purge valve is what started this merry go round.
New fuel pump usually has O-rings which need to be put on new one.
Anyway, if you didn't throw old parts out then put old fuel pump back in.
If not available then check to make sure all lines have O-rings and fuel pressure is good at rail.
Check for spark and injector pulse.

Sorry, have seen on other manufacturer's vehicle where the ECT actually stopped the engine from starting
So, it now becomes a possibility.

Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
First thing I would do is take a look at the engine coolant temperature on the scan tool data list. A high signal voltage (P0118) means the temperature seen by the PCM will be super cold (usually about -30'C) which will cause too much fuel to be injected during start.

Have you checked the injector power supply and checked that there is injector control during crank?
Ok, then maybe replacing it will be worth it. however, this code wasn't present in the beginning.

I don't know of/have a specific way of testing the control of the injector. I just know that they aren't leaking under pressure, and they spray when the engine is cranking.

Gonna move forward with the ECT.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well, using starter fluid to see that engine runs, usually means issues with fuel pump.
Should have left old fuel pump in. Replacing fuel pump to fix the stuck open purge valve is what started this merry go round.
New fuel pump usually has O-rings which need to be put on new one.
Anyway, if you didn't throw old parts out then put old fuel pump back in.
If not available then check to make sure all lines have O-rings and fuel pressure is good at rail.
Check for spark and injector pulse.

Sorry, have seen on other manufacturer's vehicle where the ECT actually stopped the engine from starting
So, it now becomes a possibility.

Good luck
Yeah, I didn't even know about the purge value in the beginning. I'd fixed similar issues with a filter swap in the past on my other cars. This was the first that didn't have a dedicated filter. The new pump kit came with everything, plus more for the swap out, and it ran fine for over 2.5 weeks.
I stated that pressure at the rail, spark and pulse are good.

Gonna move forward with the ECT.

Thanks!
 

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Still was worried about the timing, so I spray it with ether, starts up and roars strong until it’s gone and then immediately dies. So I know the timing is at least close enough to run…

This is what stuck out to me. Do this test again and try to keep the engine running with short bursts of starter fluid. If you can do this, then as avisitor said you have a fuel delivery problem. I know you changed the fuel pump, but you can never be completely sure with aftermarket parts. You'll find many cases on these forums of people replacing bad parts with (new) bad parts (...and sometimes replacing good parts with bad parts).
 

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Discussion Starter #10
This is what stuck out to me. Do this test again and try to keep the engine running with short bursts of starter fluid. If you can do this, then as avisitor said you have a fuel delivery problem. I know you changed the fuel pump, but you can never be completely sure with aftermarket parts. You'll find many cases on these forums of people replacing bad parts with (new) bad parts (...and sometimes replacing good parts with bad parts).
Even if the injectors are spraying? When I pull the rail and crank the engine, the injectors spray fuel in series.

I will try to get a hold of a pressure gauge and test the exact pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
What stuck out to me was the use of the word "roars". What does that mean? Did it literally roar?
A roaring sound from the air filter box is a symptom of an exhaust restriction...see link below. I just thought I'd mention it since pretty much everything else has been checked.
Roars as in, will rev up to 4000 rpms if I push the pedal for about 4 secs and then bogs and dies. If I restart, it will rev up to about 2000 and then dies immediately. Then, crank-no start.
 
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