[secret ingredient]

2003 Tiburon GT. Needs help. Here's what I know so far:

Currently has a leaky drivers door seal which I need to replace, and also figure out what is causing the headlights to only turn on in high, and the windows to not open. No blown fuses that I can see, thinking its something involved with moisture having gotten into the car.

I messed with it some more today, and now the passenger side opens, after some protesting on the car's behalf. So I dont think its in the switch, as that is plugged into the same set of wires on the harness. So apparently it must be the window regulator. Is this a known problem on this generation?

Also, why in the world would the headlight switch be tied into this? All I can figure is that the moisture in the air (car sat a while) must have corroded the contacts. But why just those contacts? This is stupid. Anyone had the same issue with theirs?

One last thing. Where can I get a good door seal kit for this?

 

[sbr711]

QUOTE (secret ingredient @ Oct 18 2010, 09:14 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=364374

2003 Tiburon GT. Needs help. Here's what I know so far:

Currently has a leaky drivers door seal which I need to replace, and also figure out what is causing the headlights to only turn on in high,
How about (2) simply BUM light bulbs ??

and the windows to not open. No blown fuses that I can see, thinking its something involved with moisture having gotten into the car.

I messed with it some more today, and now the passenger side opens, after some protesting on the car's behalf. So I dont think its in the switch, as that is plugged into the same set of wires on the harness. So apparently it must be the window regulator. Is this a known problem on this generation?
Thump the door with fist, common for the window motors to stick and not want to ratate.. 2 window motors should do it.. of course DVOM is your friend, check voltages at window motor connector..

Also, why in the world would the headlight switch be tied into this? All I can figure is that the moisture in the air (car sat a while) must have corroded the contacts. But why just those contacts? This is stupid. Anyone had the same issue with theirs?
I say (2) BUM light bulbs, here again, DVOM Is your friend, test voltages at headlight bulb plugs

One last thing. Where can I get a good door seal kit for this?
Local Hyundai dealer parts counter... likely need order, not an everyday hot sale item.. be a day or 2 out depending on location of your region parts depot..

 

[secret ingredient]

I don't think I've ever seen a pair of lights be bad at the same time, but hey, cheap fix if it is. I'll look into it, but that seems overly simple.

I'll give the motor a bump, since I have the door panel off anyway. Can't hurt it at this point. That and getting hold of my DVOM, which is currently lost as I recently moved. Either that or buy another.

Guess I'll have to get to a reputable Hyundai dealer. Never having had one before, this might be an adventure. Hoping it cures the leak, as I hate moldy carpet. Then again, had this been my car all along, it never would have sat for a year. Thanks for the suggestions so far.

 

[secret ingredient]

Pulled some stuff off today, found some good and some bad.

The headlights are good now. Passenger side had a bad connection. Guess it worked loose on the bulb or something, but I jiggled it as I was pulling it out and it began to work again. Free fix there. Driver's side was burned out. Had a spare in a box for some reason, popped it, good to go.

The driver's window issue, still unresolved. Tried cleaning the connections to the motor, nothing. Gave the motor a whack with a hammer, nothing. Still just clicks from the switch. Judging by the moisture I saw condensed on the motor's exterior, I'm betting its just seized. How bad is it to replace the motor/regulator? I see a ton of bolts on the inner door parts, but I have no idea whether all need to come out or not. Don't need to make more work for myself.

Also, just to make sure the motor is running in top shape, I checked the plugs I could get to. Man were they nasty. Looked like the originals, some NGKs with MADE IN KOREA stamped on them. At 99k miles, they were looking sketchy at best. What am I looking at as far as installation time and difficulty? I know I'll need the upper plenum gasket, and the wires and plugs. Anything else I need to be aware of? Thanks