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I'm an AUTOSPARK by trade and your measurements make no sense to me either :)
And I see your using that ohmmeter again. Did you not read my previous post?

Did you ever try shorting out the light bar relay coil like I suggested in post #36?


If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated
I did....but I only had enough time to do one thing. And since I had my brain-wave on the relay, I figured that would be the one I was going to try. In the next few days I'll be able to get at the car for more than an hour and I'll go through everything, including post #36. I'm not sure what an AUTOSPARK is, to be honest. But I see you have some serious knowledge. So in the meantime keeping in mind that I only want the LED light bar to come on with the high beams, but on an illuminated LED switch, I'll ask you this: how would YOU wire this up?
 

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I'm not sure what an AUTOSPARK is, to be honest.
I'm an auto electrician. I fix all those pesky car electrical faults that the mechanics run away from :)
So your in good company, since I don't understand what is happening with that relay either. And something else that is strange is I just took a quick look at the headlamp schematic for your car and it doesn't show any relays in the circuit. It's a little odd that your car has one. What relay was it you were taking your measurements from?

461647

how would YOU wire this up?
I don't really see anything wrong with the way you've wired it up, assuming my diagram in post #36 is correct. I think the problem is the LED inside the switch. I reckon if the switch contained an incandescent bulb you wouldn't be having an issue. An incandescent bulb won't light up when there is a very small current flowing. But LEDs can be a bit unpredictable in that regard. We often see this when folk replace their interior light bulbs with LEDs. The LEDs will often remain illuminated a little when the car doors have been closed, as were the original incandescent bulbs would completely switch off. Here is one example I found on the forum --> RB Accent - Dome LED Issue

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I also have 17 years of experience as a two-way radio tech and installer and it's frustrating that with that amount of experience, I haven't been able to figure this out. But I will, hah! I've attached two pictures of the under hood fuse panel and cover showing which relay is for the high beams. And it's the right relay for sure. Remove the relay, the high beams don't work, put it back and you can hear and feel the coil activate the internal switch on the relay and high beams come on. Also, this is a Canadian car so maybe that's why you couldn't find it? I'll be looking at #36 in a couple of days when I'm off work. Hopefully that will get it done. If not, my back up plan is to use a 2nd relay and take the output of 87 from the first relay and use that as an input to the illuminated switch, then run the second relay off the switched power.
 

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this is a Canadian car so maybe that's why you couldn't find it?
Are Canadian models fitted with DRLs like cars need to have in cold climate regions of Europe? I'm just wondering if the relays are perhaps added when the car has DRLs. The RB Accent wasn't sold here in the UK. So I think my diagrams are actually for US models. Both the headlamp relay slots are empty on my diagrams.

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Are Canadian models fitted with DRLs like cars need to have in cold climate regions of Europe? I'm just wondering if the relays are perhaps added when the car has DRLs. The RB Accent wasn't sold here in the UK. So I think my diagrams are actually for US models. Both the headlamp relay slots are empty on my diagrams.

If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated
Yes they are fitted with them, this one is as well.
 

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View attachment 461672

Euro schematic, headlamps 12v hot, gnd switched
Excellent! So.....if I'm reading this right....and I may not be, I'm at work and it's 3:17AM right now, the high beam relay (RLY 2) pulls the circuit to ground, completing the connection and lighting up the high beams. And this is indicated by the green wire on pin#1 of the relay which would likely be the same green wire I have tapped into for the relay control. Does that make sense?
 

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the high beam relay (RLY 2) pulls the circuit to ground, completing the connection and lighting up the high beams...Does that make sense?
Yeah, that's how it works. But I still don't understand the readings you were getting at the relay socket. According to the diagram the relay 87 terminal is tied to ground. Yet somehow you managed to measure +12V on it. That doesn't make sense.

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Yeah, that's how it works. But I still don't understand the readings you were getting at the relay socket. According to the diagram the relay 87 terminal is tied to ground. Yet somehow you managed to measure +12V on it. That doesn't make sense.

If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated
No kidding. That's the baffling part to me as well. I just re-checked the relay with a different, better quality meter and the readings were the same. I work tonight, but tomorrow I'll have some time to spend on it. If I have time, I'll post a video or pics showing the readings. Red Raspberry posted above about computer grounded circuits......I'm not familiar with those. I'm thinking that's why the green h/light wire shows +12V and then goes to ground when the high beam is activated. Could be why this relay is doing the same thing.....although why 30 and 87 go to 1v is even more f'd up. If that theory was right, then they should go to ground; and 87, which should be the green wire I tapped into should show the same, 1V. I'll double check that tomorrow. But at this point, I really don't know.
 

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Ok, final update, thank christ. After way too much messing around and not nearly enough beer, it's wired in and working. After trials and tribulations, I ended up going with the 2 relay system. The fault with just the single relay seemed to come down to the green (ground) wire on the plug at the back of the headlight. It works to trip the relay, but not to run the LED on the switch. I believe if I didn't want to use an illuminated switch, then it would have worked. But I had to be difficult and use the illuminated one. I've posted pictures of the install, including the switch. Note that in the pictures there are two switches. The top is for the light bar, the bottom is for the fog lights (not factory). Only the light bar is wired into the high beams. I don't have a picture of the schematic I used, but I'll add that after. If anyone wants any info, let me know. Thanks everyone for your help.
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