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i would need to connect to the high beam ground and not the positive for my switch correct?
I'm not sure connecting to the ground directly would work. I suspect the 3 way switch is expecting a +12V.
Do you have a diagram for the light bar wiring that you can post. Once I see how it's supposed to work I will be able to suggest a way of making it work on your Accent.

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Pardon my raising an older thread:
I had been scouting references to light bar install for my late model diesel Santa Fe Elite (TM). So, I thought I might offer the following for vehicle fitted with fog lights:
On my previous Santa Fe (DM) I was able to install driving lights without the need for a separate switch!
Instead of installing a dashboard switch and all the hassle of poking wires through the firewall, I, instead activated the driving light relay with a second relay which in turn was operated by the existing fog light switch...
Thus, to turn on the driving lights one operates the high beam as usual, then by turning on the fog lights, the relay activates and switches on the driving lights.
Hope this is useful to somebody.
cheers
Santafeelite
 

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This is never an old tread. I am trying to find which wire to use to trigger a relay that would light some LED bar when I use my high beams. This is a Santa Fe 2022. The complete harness going to the lens assembly is the one in the picture. Any way to find out which wire triggers the high beams? I believe it is hot all the time and the switch connects the ground? Any help on connecting some relay with that setup would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Pat
458764
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I would do this at the multifunction switch on the column. The high beams will turn on with the ground that is made there. The ground may go to the BCM or directly to the power module I'm not sure but it could be used to fire a relay..
 

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I would do this at the multifunction switch on the column. The high beams will turn on with the ground that is made there. The ground may go to the BCM or directly to the power module I'm not sure but it could be used to fire a relay..
If the relay has both normally open and normally closed contacts he could use either of the suggested wiring points as the relay would still control the function of turning the bar light on and off whether the wire is powered or not.

So now there's two choices of attachment if desired.
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Grounds are black. But without a connector pin map or wire diagram it would be impossible to tell you. A multimeter will tell you if you know how to use it, looking for voltages and grounds.
 

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2014 Hyundai accent. I installed a light bar but for the life of me, I haven't been able to figure out how to wire them up to the high beam. I've attached a picture of what I've done and how it is wired up as I type this. I have a feeling that I'm missing something simple, but my brain is fried from spending hours trying to figure this out. As you can see from the diagram, I have the ground for the illuminated switch AND #85 on the relay hooked up to the GREEN wire on the headlamp. I'm thinking this is where I've messed up. The switch works and illuminates properly on high beam, but it also illuminates and does NOT work on park light setting.

Now, I tried a million different combinations so I was rather confused at the end of the day, but one of them worked and I'm pretty sure it was when I had just the relay in place without the switch. I took the connector off the back of the headlight (drivers side, not that it matters) and tested each point at OFF, PARK, LO and HIGH. The results are on the picture. What messed me up is that on HI, the green wire (#1 in the diagram) does NOT go to ground. Or not a solid ground anyway. The other ones marked G were 100% definitive ground.

So my current train of thought is this: The ground on the rocker switch should go to chassis ground and #85 on the relay should go to the green wire (#1) on the headlight. The +12V for the switch shouldn't matter where it comes from since the red wire at the headlight connector is +12V at every setting. But if I do this, the switch will illuminate in the ON position even when the high beams are off because the power source and ground are not from the headlight. That's why I wired the two grounds (switch & relay) together in the first place so that the ground is provided when the headlight HI is switched on.

Anyway, I know this is a bit scrambled, so if anyone has any ideas or needs any clarification, let me know. Switch is at the bottom of the picture. Thanks!!
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I'm pretty sure the high beam uses a ground wire from the turn signal switch. Just splice into that for a relay coil ground and connect the rest hot with a fuse and to the light.
 

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I'm pretty sure the high beam uses a ground wire from the turn signal switch. Just splice into that for a relay coil ground and connect the rest hot with a fuse and to the light.
That's the way it is now, except the ground wire I used is at the headlight plug and it's hooked up to both the switch negative and the relay coil negative. Problem is, the rocker switch LED lights up when the light switch is off or in park. It shouldn't if the green wire (#1) was a true ground but as I mentioned above, it is not. For some reason, it works on a relay but when I put the rocker switch in there, it does not. If I take the negative off of the rocker switch, the switch will work properly, but won't light up. But maybe the ground you are mentioning off the multi switch is a true ground?
 

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Problem is, the rocker switch LED lights up when the light switch is off or in park.
Is this with the rocker switch in the off position too?

It shouldn't if the green wire (#1) was a true ground but as I mentioned above, it is not.
Nor should it be when the light switch is off or in park. It should only be a true ground when the high beam headlamp is on. As your chart shows, it's +12V when the high beam is off.

But maybe the ground you are mentioning off the multi switch is a true ground?
It's the same ground as the one your connected to at the headlamp.

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Is this with the rocker switch in the off position too?

Yes, but it's dimmer than normal.

Nor should it be when the light switch is off or in park. It should only be a true ground when the high beam headlamp is on. As your chart shows, it's +12V when the high beam is off.

Right, but it doesn't go to chassis ground when the high beams are illuminated. The multi meter shows an open circuit, definitely not a solid chassis ground.

It's the same ground as the one your connected to at the headlamp.

^though so, thanks for clarifying.

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The way I wire LEDs that are on computer grounded circuits is to wire them hot and then use the led ground at the relay. Then when the device is tuned on the led lights up.
 

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Yes, but it's dimmer than normal.
I suspect the dim illumination of the LED is due to voltage drop across the resistance of the relay coil. To confirm, with the rocker switch off, connect a wire across the coil to short circuit it's resistance. If the LED goes out you know that's where the problem lies. Placing a diode (1N4001) in parallel with the relay coil might cure the problem. That would automatically short circuit the relay coil when the high beams are switched off...see below.

The multi meter shows an open circuit
The meter is wrong then. The high beam control wire can't be open circuit to ground when the high beams are illuminated. If it was open circuit no current would flow and the bulbs wouldn't light up.
461249


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I suspect the dim illumination of the LED is due to voltage drop across the resistance of the relay coil. To confirm, with the rocker switch off, connect a wire across the coil to short circuit it's resistance. If the LED goes out you know that's where the problem lies. Placing a diode (1N4001) in parallel with the relay coil might cure the problem. That would automatically short circuit the relay coil when the high beams are switched off...see below.


The meter is wrong then. The high beam control wire can't be open circuit to ground when the high beams are illuminated. If it was open circuit no current would flow and the bulbs wouldn't light up.
View attachment 461249

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I'll be away for a couple of weeks and I thought I'd have time to try this before I left, but I did not. I'll try it when I get back and see what I come up with although your explanation about the dim LED makes sense. The meter when set to ohms goes to 0 when I go to chassis ground. But when I go to the green wire when it's on high beam, it doesn't go to 0....I can't recall the exact number, but I think it was around 7000ohms.
 

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But when I go to the green wire when it's on high beam, it doesn't go to 0....I can't recall the exact number, but I think it was around 7000ohms.
You can't use an Ohmmeter to measure resistance in an active circuit. So the result of that test is invalid.
When the circuit is active you should use a voltage drop test to determine whether there is significant resistance in the circuit. So measure the voltage between ground (battery negative) and the green wire. If the voltage is less than 0.5V when the high beam is on that signifies a good ground. If there is really 7000 Ohms in the circuit the voltage will be significantly higher than that.

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Ok, I've got a couple of ideas. For some reason, I had a brain fart when I installed the lights and didn't realize there was actually a high beam relay in the fuse panel under the hood. On my 2006 Focus, I used the high beam relay as an input to the same LED illuminated switch for the same LED bar. It works perfect. The LED on the switch only lights up when the high beams are on and the switch is on. So when I realized there was a high beam relay in the Accent, I was like, "Voila!! I'm an idiot for not noticing this sooner!" So I went about testing the relay to see which input I needed to use to work the same way as the Focus, keeping in mind the high beams are negative activated. And that's where I realized I was in the same boat again. I completely 100% understand how a relay works on a regular 12V system. This Hyundai however has beat the **** out of me. I can't figure out the relay IN/OUT for the life of me. I've attached a diagram of what the pins are when the relay is in place and when it's removed. It makes no sense to me. Can anyone shed some light on this and how the relay triggers? NOTE: I'm not 100% sure the pins are numbered properly!!
 

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I can't figure out the relay IN/OUT...It makes no sense to me.
I'm an AUTOSPARK by trade and your measurements make no sense to me either :)
And I see your using that ohmmeter again. Did you not read my previous post?

Did you ever try shorting out the light bar relay coil like I suggested in post #36?


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