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Hyundai Santa Fe 2004 auxiliary light wiring diagram. Is there someone who can tell me how this is done? I do it all the time om other cars. Bit this car has something funky going on...
I don't know what you mean by funky, but if you can explain what your doing and what the problem is I'll probably be able to help you.
 

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You need to connect your additional lamp (or the relay your using to power it) in parallel with the high beam headlamp bulb. The photo below shows where the high beam headlamp wires are on the headlamp connector. Sorry, I couldn't find a photo of an actual RB Accent connector so the wire colours are different to what is on your car. The position of the wires on the connector should be the same though.

To make your additional lamp illuminate along with the high beam headlamp you connect the positive side of your additional lamp to the center (orange) wire and connect the negative side to the wire that is left of center (the white wire). Notice, the connector securing clip is towards the top.

If your using a relay to power the additional lamp you connect the relay coil (85 & 86 terminals) to the orange and white wires. The relay 30 terminal would connect to battery positive via a suitable fuse, and the 87 terminal would connect to the positive side of the additional lamp. The negative side of the lamp would connect to ground (the car body).

ORANGE - HEADLAMP SUPPLY (ignition +12V)
WHITE - HIGH BEAM CONTROL (ground via stalk switch)

440516
 

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i would need to connect to the high beam ground and not the positive for my switch correct?
I'm not sure connecting to the ground directly would work. I suspect the 3 way switch is expecting a +12V.
Do you have a diagram for the light bar wiring that you can post. Once I see how it's supposed to work I will be able to suggest a way of making it work on your Accent.

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Problem is, the rocker switch LED lights up when the light switch is off or in park.
Is this with the rocker switch in the off position too?

It shouldn't if the green wire (#1) was a true ground but as I mentioned above, it is not.
Nor should it be when the light switch is off or in park. It should only be a true ground when the high beam headlamp is on. As your chart shows, it's +12V when the high beam is off.

But maybe the ground you are mentioning off the multi switch is a true ground?
It's the same ground as the one your connected to at the headlamp.

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Yes, but it's dimmer than normal.
I suspect the dim illumination of the LED is due to voltage drop across the resistance of the relay coil. To confirm, with the rocker switch off, connect a wire across the coil to short circuit it's resistance. If the LED goes out you know that's where the problem lies. Placing a diode (1N4001) in parallel with the relay coil might cure the problem. That would automatically short circuit the relay coil when the high beams are switched off...see below.

The multi meter shows an open circuit
The meter is wrong then. The high beam control wire can't be open circuit to ground when the high beams are illuminated. If it was open circuit no current would flow and the bulbs wouldn't light up.
461249


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But when I go to the green wire when it's on high beam, it doesn't go to 0....I can't recall the exact number, but I think it was around 7000ohms.
You can't use an Ohmmeter to measure resistance in an active circuit. So the result of that test is invalid.
When the circuit is active you should use a voltage drop test to determine whether there is significant resistance in the circuit. So measure the voltage between ground (battery negative) and the green wire. If the voltage is less than 0.5V when the high beam is on that signifies a good ground. If there is really 7000 Ohms in the circuit the voltage will be significantly higher than that.

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I can't figure out the relay IN/OUT...It makes no sense to me.
I'm an AUTOSPARK by trade and your measurements make no sense to me either :)
And I see your using that ohmmeter again. Did you not read my previous post?

Did you ever try shorting out the light bar relay coil like I suggested in post #36?


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I'm not sure what an AUTOSPARK is, to be honest.
I'm an auto electrician. I fix all those pesky car electrical faults that the mechanics run away from :)
So your in good company, since I don't understand what is happening with that relay either. And something else that is strange is I just took a quick look at the headlamp schematic for your car and it doesn't show any relays in the circuit. It's a little odd that your car has one. What relay was it you were taking your measurements from?

461647

how would YOU wire this up?
I don't really see anything wrong with the way you've wired it up, assuming my diagram in post #36 is correct. I think the problem is the LED inside the switch. I reckon if the switch contained an incandescent bulb you wouldn't be having an issue. An incandescent bulb won't light up when there is a very small current flowing. But LEDs can be a bit unpredictable in that regard. We often see this when folk replace their interior light bulbs with LEDs. The LEDs will often remain illuminated a little when the car doors have been closed, as were the original incandescent bulbs would completely switch off. Here is one example I found on the forum --> RB Accent - Dome LED Issue

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this is a Canadian car so maybe that's why you couldn't find it?
Are Canadian models fitted with DRLs like cars need to have in cold climate regions of Europe? I'm just wondering if the relays are perhaps added when the car has DRLs. The RB Accent wasn't sold here in the UK. So I think my diagrams are actually for US models. Both the headlamp relay slots are empty on my diagrams.

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the high beam relay (RLY 2) pulls the circuit to ground, completing the connection and lighting up the high beams...Does that make sense?
Yeah, that's how it works. But I still don't understand the readings you were getting at the relay socket. According to the diagram the relay 87 terminal is tied to ground. Yet somehow you managed to measure +12V on it. That doesn't make sense.

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