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If you have recently lost overdrive , overdrive is slipping and or transmission is falling back into third gear erratically you may be able to repair it using this guide , You do not have to remove transmission . First check for codes ( major parts stores will check for free if don't have a scanner ) even if no CEL is displayed. If code(s)P0734 - ( If the value resulting from dividing the PG-A output (Input shaft rotation speed) by the 4th gear ratio does not match the PG-B output (output shaft rotation speed) after 3rd gear is engaged, DTC P0734 is output . ) and sometimes P1624 - ( MIL-On request from TCM ) are stored there is a good chance of Overdrive Hub (Front) Bearing failure. There is a outside chance one of the pulse generators has failed but you would most likely have code P0717 or P0722 ( pulse generator "open " Codes ) . The best way to find out is to drain the fluid , remove pan and look for pieces of the bearing on the magnets and in the filter . Here are pictures of the pieces I found in my pan and filter .


Sometimes you wont find a complete piece like I did ( 2nd pic ) but there will be enough on the magnets to indicate bearing failure.

The next step will be gaining access to the rear cover to remove it. Start by removing drivers side wheel and splash guard ( 10mm bolts ) . Next remove the airbox ( 10mm ), battery and battery tray ( 12 mm ). Now the transmission mounts will need to be removed and the transmission lowered to gain full access to rear cover requiring a engine support fixture ( See picture below ) , you can fabricate one or follow instructions below picture .

I used a floor jack and jack stand to support the engine/trans axle , If you go this route be very careful and be sure everything is secure before staring work . Place the floor jack under the cross member and raise it just enough to to take the weight off the drivers side mounts through bolt . Remove the 4 ( 17mm ) cross member bolts ( 2 front , 2 rear ) and the drivers side mount through bolt ( 17mm ) . Now carefully lower the transmission until the top of the rear cover is visible from the drivers side wheel well . Go slow and remember you can lower it more if need be to get the rear cover off. Now place the jack stand somewhere where it will be solid , either at the differential , cross member or under the oil pan using a block of wood to prevent damage ( what I did but not the best place ). A important side note : If your flex pipe is old , leaking at all or you just want to be safe remove it . I didn't and my very small leak became huge , I had to replace it so be careful . Remove Pulse generator (1 10mm bolt ) from the cover.
Now remove the 12 ( 12mm ) rear cover bolts and carefully remove the rear cover . It may be stuck pretty good , gently tap ( there are a couple spots you can get to to tap it ) and or pry it off. Here is a picture ( not mine , I found it to use as reference since I forgot to take one at this stage ) of the cover removed , this may give you a idea about how far to lower the trans axle . Take note of the o ring at the bottom , make sure it is in place and not covered with sealant when you place the cover back on .

Now gently slide the OD drum out , the hub may slide out of the drum but that is ok .You may find the bearing race or part of the bearing stuck to the hub . Inspect everything for damage , be sure the retainers holding the clutch pack together are in good shape.

You can remove the retainers and check the clutches and steels for wear if you want but be careful. If the top steel , hub and drum look good ( no groves or scars ) it is most likely OK. Also insure the part of the hub where the bearing goes is smooth . There is a small metal clad seal in the drum , I strongly suggest changing it as fluid pressure can be lost .

Now slide the "cupped" race off of the nut and remove the output / quill shaft.



Inspect the output / quill shaft for damage / groves in the splines . Most likely there will be small " nicks " in the splines but they will be OK . There is a bushing inside the shaft , check for wear . I replaced it because it comes with the kit but you can use your own judgement .

Clean the transmission case removing old seal / Gasket .Clean the cover and check for wear or groves. Check the bearing as well for free movement .

Now some info about the parts. I checked with the dealer and all they could order was the bearing ( Part Number 4552522800 Part Name BEARING-ATA END CLUTCH - $19.48 ) but there was no picture to be sure it was correct . I ordered from Whatever It Takes Transmission (https://www.wittrans.com/default.aspx) , here is a list of the parts .
42220LK Kit, A4BF1/A4BF2/A4AF3 Overdrive Hub(Front) (Contains: D42220L, 42220LA, 42056E)" ;Cupped race , bearing , .015 Shim To Correct Inplay , quill / output shaft bushing $16.79
42083E OD DRUM REAR METAL CLAD SEAL $2.25
42300LAF Farpak Gasket $2.38
A42010LA FILTER $3.64
Total with shipping and COD was $47.03 You can avoid COD by calling and placing order . There are other sites to order from as well but they had everything in stock except the seal but it arrived from another warehouse , no extra shipping charge .
If you do have a damaged shaft or drum they have them but I'm not sure of part # or price.
Here is pictures of the new parts ;


Reassembly : The quill / output shaft bushing can be pried out but the new bushing is thicker ( lack of wear ) and has to be pressed in . I used a vice and 2 pieces of oak to press the new one in . A socket will help push it in to the lip . After cleaning place the new Cupped race over the lip against the large nut using Vaseline to hold it in place. Now coat the inside of the quill / output shaft with Vaseline and slide it into place . It should be nice and snug with the new bushing , little to no play .


Pry the old metal clad seal from the drum and peck the new one in .

Now place the new bearing on the hub , bearings up .

Use Vaseline to hold it and lube it . I debated using the .015 Shim and after checking clearance several times I elected to . Place it on top of the bearing .

Now slide the hub / drum back into place on the shaft , use a bit of Vaseline to help the seal slide on .

Use Gray gasket maker to reseal the cover . Apply a bit of Vaseline to the bearing in the cover and the surrounding area , There is a clip on the drum that pops into a lip inside the cover.

TIGHTENING TORQUE : Rear cover 14-16 lb·ft

Install Pulse generator . Slowly jack trans axle back into place and reinstall cross member , top mount , battery tray , battery and air box. Reinstall splash shield and wheel . Replace /reinstall filter and gasket /pan . Remember to use SPIII fluid .
I did this repair on my A4BF2 Automatic Transmission . There are many Hyundai Transmissions this will also apply to , here is a list of the ones I have found thus far ; A4BF1/A4BF2/A4BF3 /A4AF3 .There are more . Please feel free to add to list . Here is a exploded view of the area where the repair will be.

Here is a complete exploded view of the transmission , similar ones can be found using your choice of search engine to be sure your transmission is similar in design .

I hope this helps someone , it saved me quiet a bit of money . My original transmission had been driven for a long time needing this repair and with the wrong fluid . Large pieces of the clutch retainer(s) worked their way throughout the trans axle making a complete rebuild questionable . I bought a used A4BF2 transmission ( good price , no warranty ) and when I checked the pan sure enough the bearing had came apart . Thank God it was repairable . The sooner you find you have bearing failure the better the chances it can be repaired fairly cheap with a bit of work . If anyone has anything to add please do , especially corrections . If you have any questions I will do my best to help , I have additional pictures as well if needed .Thanks for reading - Ted .
 

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I completely agree with this "HOW TO"! Very thorough, and well detailed. If you miss something... re-read the entire thread several times. There ARE OTHER common issues too, so be AWARE! (I am also covering THIS as well as the others, in an upcoming video "How-to" that will be loaded to my Youtube channel,when completed and edited)

1)42220LK Kit, A4BF1/A4BF2/A4AF3 Overdrive Hub(Front) (Contains: D42220L, 42220LA, 42056E)" ;Cupped race , bearing , .015 Shim To Correct Inplay , quill / output shaft bushing $16.79
2)bigger correct sized splined shaft: W42675E -$42.
3)42083E OD DRUM REAR METAL CLAD SEAL $2.25
4)Overdrive Clutch/Gear assembly (gear with rings on inside): WU42570L -$48. (may not be needed)
5)Overdrive Hub/Drum: WU42710L -$53. (May not be needed)


These seem to be the same on ALL A4AF# and A4BF# transmissions regardless YEAR, or whether or not the over drive cover is one or two pieces. DOUBLE CHECK USING YOUR VIN to be sure BEFORE ordering from WIT. CALL them, as you will not be able to see anything without being a logged in member.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you. I look forward to your video , will you place a link here when it is ready to help others? I would like see it as well .
 

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In response to the post above showing the flat bearing with the shim on top of the rollers (held by vaseline), is this correct? In this scenario the "shim" becomes the "race" face to the bearing. I am thinking that the shim should go against the flat side underneath the bearing instead, which would allow the original configuration of the flat roller bearings to the cupped six-sided flat race. Am I wrong in my thinking?
Also, on the small rubber/metal seal am I seeing the metal side to the outside of the hub, indicating that the pressure side would be within the hub? I'm pretty sure I am but my old seal was worn with a taper so that it is easily inserted with the rubber side of the seal to the outside and is difficult to make it go in the other direction. My new seal has no wear so I get no clue from it. Thanks guys. This is a great post!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I debated this as well and researched it thoroughly but since this shim wasn't originally there I found very little . I went with the general consensus which was to place it there. Everyone that posted had done so with success and had driven many miles with no trouble .Are you asking about the small metal clad seal?
 

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Finished My Repair!

Ok....In response to my own question above.

I did place the thin shim "underneath" the new flat bearing instead of on top of the rollers.
My old bearing had worn a bit of the drum underneath leaving it gaulded just a bit so I figured this was the reason for the shim. It just doesn't even cover the full surface of the rollers when sandwiched between the rollers and the cupped race so I felt it should go against the drum under the new bearing.

The picture of the rubber seal above is showing the "inside" of the seal exposed where the you are looking at the edge of the metal casing and the actual rubber ring itself. In other words, the pressure is on the side of the drum that the picture is showing. It's important to get this right. Obvious what I'm looking at in the pic now that I know for sure. I was able to verify which direction it goes once I realized that my old seal had been chapped on one side by the inner shaft moving the extra distance once the old bearing gave out which left extra space for it to move.

I wasn't able to get a new longer shaft so I reused my old one which had only scuff marks for damage. Also, the 4220LK "kit" came with a larger bushing than I needed, not even sure what it was actually for. But mine still had the oil grooves, showed very little wear, and looked fine so I'm not worried about that. The kit contained the 42220L bearing and cupped race and the flat shim that I needed but the seal was ordered separate (42083E). No number for the shim.

I ordered my parts from WIT (Whatever It Takes) transmission. I talked with "Rod" in parts who worked with me to get the right parts. Never had such a nice and helpful sales person before! He really took the time to make sure we were on the same page and when we were finished I felt everything would be right. They had the 42220LK "kit" in a nearby town at one of their other locations but the small seal, 42083E for mine, was in Louisville. Rod made sure to get it on one of their delivery trucks and it was all ready to go in just a couple of days saving me shipping. Prices were great as well! I'm recommending WIT to everyone from now on. Thanks Rod!

Got it all back together and it's working great! Can't remember when it ever shifted so well! :D

Thanks to everyone that shared such great information on this forum! :trophy:

I've got a few pics but not sure how to post them.
 

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Found how to attach pics (Advanced View).

Old and new seals. See chapped marks on old one.
Transmission Pics 526.jpg

Placing new seal. Be careful pressing it in. Mine was fairly snug. I used the flat back of a socket to gently but firmly tap it in place.
Transmission Pics 524.jpg

Placing shim. I really feel that this is the correct placement method. The thickness of the shim is not as thick as the actual cupped race wall. Hopefully for those that placed it on the rollers it will last a long time. Mine works beautifully right now but time will tell which is the correct method of installation. I feel good about this though. I welcome other's thoughts.
Transmission Pics 530.jpg

Placing new flat bearing. Vaseline to hold in place.
Transmission Pics 536.jpg

New bearing "cupped race" in place on shaft over nut.
How the new bearing would be placed.
I used the Vaseline on the drum before placing it all on the shaft.
Transmission Pics 555.jpg

What to expect to find in the pan on the magnets.
Transmission Pics 560.jpg

Input shaft placement. Long splines go into the trany first. Short splines out.
Transmission Pics 542.jpg

In case someone wants to remove the ring on the front of the drum I thought I'd show this pic. It has locking notches and functions just as a piston ring would. Be sure to separate the notches correctly when removing or replacing. Not knowing this might cause a problem for someone. They barely have room to separate in the groove but they do. Trying to take this apart as you would a regular cir-clip may break something.
Transmission Pics 508.jpg

Hope these pics are clear and help someone.

To remove the transmission side cover I had to use an adjustable wrench to grip and bend the body just a little bit in order for the cover to slide off and out. Not much but a little.

Also, one of the cover screws at the top has to be in the cover when you replace it or it won't have room to fit between the body and the trany on install. It was this way coming off as well. Just a reminder to save trouble.

No silicone gasket sealer so I just used a thin layer of semi-pliable Permatex, an old standard. No problems for me and not worried about ever doing this again I hope.

I found "Valvoline for Imports" fully synthetic transmission at Advance Auto Parts and this is what I used. It is rated for SP-III applications.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Good work. I believe the shim can go either way , I read in another thread of someone else aranging it like that .I believe it will be fine .
 

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Good work. I believe the shim can go either way , I read in another thread of someone else aranging it like that .I believe it will be fine .
I hope either way works for everyone and I feel the only difference would be many, many miles down the road either way.

TJVJR, I want to thank you for a very clear post. I found it most helpful and reassuring. I much appreciate the time you spent helping us with this repair. :liebe011::trophy:
 

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TJVJR,

You are my hero! My daughter has an 01 Tiburon that has been fairly reliable. She complained that the trans was "lurching". Of course it never happened when I was driving it. I checked the fluid, it was low and burned so I figured I'd have it serviced. The picture of bearing parts in the pan was identical to yours!

The shop wanted $2400 to rebuild a perfectly good transmission so they could replace a $30 bearing. I discovered your post during my research and your clear instructions and parts sourcing saved me all sorts of headache.

So, that leaves me with just two questions: 1. What's your address, and 2. what do you drink?

Thanks for taking the time to document and post that repair.
 

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No problem , I am so pleased you got it fixed . Mine is still going strong over a year after the repair Thank God , I hope yours keeps going for years to come .
 

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Well, it seems that it has happened again! I probably made some sort of error during the repair, so I will be more diligent this go around.
 

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Well, it seems that it has happened again! I probably made some sort of error during the repair, so I will be more diligent this go around.
Sorry to hear that , did you find parts in the pan again ? Hope the repair goes well .
 

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I had the problem ware the vehicle would shift into fourth/overdrive, and zing, the engine would take off, without any power to the wheels.

Apparently, there is a port on the end clutch cover that aids in the operation of the end clutch piston, if this port is blocked or plugged perhaps via sealant or other materials the end clutch will still not operate properly and will also have the same symptoms of the original problem. I have used the same pictures from the other tutorials. but circled the location on the end clutch cover ware it persists. It is important to use a sealant with the correct viscosity of around 120 Pa.s or at least limit the use of sealant around this area. In order to prevent blockage of this port.

In my case i slapped it all together, and had the same problem. So I went to check the end clutch pressure to see if either the solenoid or valve body were malfunctioning and got a reading of 0 psi, I thought this was funny because I was not pulling any diagnostic codes from this area. But i pulled the valve body anyways and checked all the solenoids, with a voltmeter everything read normal, checked solenoid seal and operation with air and a 12v battery everything was operating correctly, looked at the valve body everything looked normal and in good condition. checked electrical continuity everything was fine. I kept at it, and looked back at the transmission ware the pressure gauge is suppose to connect to and noticed that it was on the end cover, then remembered that i had been generous with "The Right Stuff", Permatex sealant i had used in this area, took off the end cover again sure enough it was clogged with sealant, so i cleared it and put it back together. It now shifts like a dream.
 

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Sorry new on here and have had the same problem with my daughters Tiburon. I already got the kit from WITT and am getting ready to start fixing this but just wanted to check something. You still put a bead of the permatex seal around that port just not to much to cause it to plug it up right? Don't want to have to do this again if I don't have to. Thank you
 
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