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Car was pulling to the right. The POS Hankooks had abnormal wear, replaced them at 23K miles. Was pulling from the day I got her with 3k miles on it (demo car) but didn't annoy me until a few months ago and it was too late to get it fixed under warranty (alignment issues are good for first 12mo/12k)

Got tired of dealer not fixing it, playing stupid. So took it to a local Big O Tires. The tech spent 30 mins trying to get it dialed in but said I needed camber bolts for him to get it in spec. I decided to do it, and the computer now shows it good. Spent $120 total. Tracks much better now in the 20 miles I put on it. No more instant right pull.

Here is my sheet:



Now just need to get my loose driver's seat fixed and I'll be somewhat happy. Definitely will be my last Hyundai. I'm too picky to put up with BS problems that I've had. Need to spend a little bit more money on a premium brand. Only 18 months left on the lease. Yeah, all cars have problems. Maybe I'll get another Hyundai but will be an Azera or Genesis. Definitely will test drive it longer and pay attention more. Sorry, just had to rant :D
 

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I just got my car aligned this morning and this was the result.

(Edit: Obviously I took it to get aligned because it wasn't in alignment, just to explain the before numbers. It had been a while.)

I wasn't sure why they left the left side cambers out of adjustment or if that was a normal thing. Should I check with the dealer about getting that adjusted back into the normal range?
 

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Left front is going to push the car to the right something fierce,, 1.1 degree spread.. something tweaked at left front.. anything over 0.5 degree spread may start to make things happen..

Left rear.. why didnt the monkey adjust the left rear camber, let alone both camber down to minimum ??

I take the rear cambers down to -0.5 or -0.6 degree to minimze tire wear and minimize toe also, as long at print green to show it in spec..
 

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I just got my car aligned this morning and this was the result.

(Edit: Obviously I took it to get aligned because it wasn't in alignment, just to explain the before numbers. It had been a while.)

I wasn't sure why they left the left side cambers out of adjustment or if that was a normal thing. Should I check with the dealer about getting that adjusted back into the normal range?
Mine was worse than this. Had dealer align it and it still sorta pulls to the left but not as hard. However, the roads around here have very high crowns so I guess that is what I feel.

Oddly, my tires were not cupped/unevenly worn. But I had long since replaced my OEMs with Conti DWS

OP--was your car involved in the left pull recall? If so, that may have taken care of both the camber bolts as well as the actual alignment for free. Yours is a 2012 so I may be off base here but I would have really beat on the dealer to take care of this.
 

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Left rear.. why didnt the monkey adjust the left rear camber, let alone both camber down to minimum ??

I take the rear cambers down to -0.5 or -0.6 degree to minimze tire wear and minimize toe also, as long at print green to show it in spec..
I wonder if this car had the rear lower control arms replaced (rust belt recall). If not, the monkey couldn't budge the rusted camber bolts.
 

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The dealer replaced my strut and after a couple days gave the car back (this was a year or so ago) My tires wear is even but faster than it should be (tempted to blame "spirited driving") I wondered if to counter the pull they just adjusted that side a bit. The strut replacement seemed to fix the problem though. I just had this done this morning so I haven't driven it enough to see how it is. I'd like them all to be in the greens if possible though. Seems odd to leave them in red and call it a day.

(I have the firestone lifetime alignment, so I can take it back to them for free etc. I might stop in and ask why they left them in the red zone.)
 

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The dealer replaced my strut and after a couple days gave the car back (this was a year or so ago) My tires wear is even but faster than it should be (tempted to blame "spirited driving") I wondered if to counter the pull they just adjusted that side a bit. The strut replacement seemed to fix the problem though. I just had this done this morning so I haven't driven it enough to see how it is. I'd like them all to be in the greens if possible though. Seems odd to leave them in red and call it a day.

(I have the firestone lifetime alignment, so I can take it back to them for free etc. I might stop in and ask why they left them in the red zone.)
Need to balance the front cambers to a less than 0.5 degree spread so front sits relatively balanced in the front so as to not to push to one side or other..

Maintain the minimal toe numbers, though squared to center line on rear, and dump them stupid camber numbers on the rear down to -0.5/-0.6 degree to keep from blazing the edges of the rear tires,, may find the car to handle a bit better and tires last longer..

Got VIN I can run for warranty claims/recalls ?
 

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Need to balance the front cambers to a less than 0.5 degree spread so front sits relatively balanced in the front so as to not to push to one side or other..

Maintain the minimal toe numbers, though squared to center line on rear, and dump them stupid camber numbers on the rear down to -0.5/-0.6 degree to keep from blazing the edges of the rear tires,, may find the car to handle a bit better and tires last longer..

Got VIN I can run for warranty claims/recalls ?
If it says the rear camber is not adjustable is there actually another way to adjust the rear camber? Someone in a post somewhere said it is actually adjustable but it's on the control arm or something. I don't have the VIN with me right now but so far I think I'm up to date with the recall stuff.
 
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