Hyundai Forums banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2009 Getz that has recently developed a starting issue which is becoming more regular. When you turn the key the ignition lights come on (and the radio) but there is no crank i.e. no starting motor engagement. It can happened just once or constantly for a while. On occasions it will start with the clutch out, other times taking the key out and in (for many times) may eventually get a start, changing keys doesn't always achieve a start. I have been to the local dealer and an auto electrician but they have never heard of the problem. Other times it will start first time. however it is becoming more regular. Anyone know of the cause and solution. Batteries in key have been replaced.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
It could be an immobliser problem, when you turn the ingnition on is there a orange key light? and is it still illuminated when you crank the engine?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
724 Posts
I have a 2009 Getz that has recently developed a starting issue which is becoming more regular. When you turn the key the ignition lights come on (and the radio) but there is no crank i.e. no starting motor engagement. It can happened just once or constantly for a while. On occasions it will start with the clutch out, other times taking the key out and in (for many times) may eventually get a start, changing keys doesn't always achieve a start. I have been to the local dealer and an auto electrician but they have never heard of the problem. Other times it will start first time. however it is becoming more regular. Anyone know of the cause and solution. Batteries in key have been replaced.
The radio on is not a good battery stress test. How old is your battery? If your battery is 4-5 yrs old, you might have to get a new battery.

Radio and instrument panel only use 1-2 amps. Starter require 50 amps of cranking current.

Don’t external charge the 12V battery and run the car. Old battery die when the lead plates short with lead crystals. This draws huge current from the alternator voltage regulator. Driving with dead or dying battery can damage your alternator voltage regulator. This will increase your repair cost because you will have to buy a new battery and an alternator.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
It could be an immobliser problem, when you turn the ingnition on is there a orange key light? and is it still illuminated when you crank the engine?
Yes it stays on. To clarify when I turn the key and it doesn't start, the light stays on. When the engine fires the light goes out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
The radio on is not a good battery stress test. How old is your battery? If your battery is 4-5 yrs old, you might have to get a new battery.

Radio and instrument panel only use 1-2 amps. Starter require 50 amps of cranking current.

Don’t external charge the 12V battery and run the car. Old battery die when the lead plates short with lead crystals. This draws huge current from the alternator voltage regulator. Driving with dead or dying battery can damage your alternator voltage regulator. This will increase your repair cost because you will have to buy a new battery and an alternator.
The battery is 3 years old and the issue has been going on for at 6 months, so the battery was about 30 months.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
724 Posts
The battery is 3 years old and the issue has been going on for at 6 months, so the battery was about 30 months.
Once a lead acid battery drain below 60%-70%, it run into hysteresis. (Accidentally leaving the lights on overnight and draining the battery.) This means the battery will not get charged above 60% and draining it cause more hysteresis. This is due to lead crystals growing between the plates. Since the battery was on it’s death bed for 6 months, your alternator voltage regulator was overheated, boiling the water in your battery and drawing huge current from the alternator.

Have the battery and alternator load tested. The battery and alternator will most likely require replacement. Check the voltage at battery, with the head light on, it should be 13V when it’s good. If the voltage hover at 12V or lower, it will require replacement.

Next time, change the battery if it does not crank the engine to prevent damage to the alternator. External charger does not refresh the battery and cannot get the lead crystals back into solution.

Another issue with external charging and accidentally reversing the poles, causing a 24V spike. This can damage the cars computer and sensors. Check your fuses and relays to see if they protected your CPU’s and systems sensors from reverse charging at 24V. If the relays and fuses did their job, you will save lots of money. The alternative can be financially painful.

Best Wishes
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Once a lead acid battery drain below 60%-70%, it run into hysteresis. (Accidentally leaving the lights on overnight and draining the battery.) This means the battery will not get charged above 60% and draining it cause more hysteresis. This is due to lead crystals growing between the plates. Since the battery was on it’s death bed for 6 months, your alternator voltage regulator was overheated, boiling the water in your battery and drawing huge current from the alternator.

Have the battery and alternator load tested. The battery and alternator will most likely require replacement. Check the voltage at battery, with the head light on, it should be 13V when it’s good. If the voltage hover at 12V or lower, it will require replacement.

Next time, change the battery if it does not crank the engine to prevent damage to the alternator. External charger does not refresh the battery and cannot get the lead crystals back into solution.

Another issue with external charging and accidentally reversing the poles, causing a 24V spike. This can damage the cars computer and sensors. Check your fuses and relays to see if they protected your CPU’s and systems sensors from reverse charging at 24V. If the relays and fuses did their job, you will save lots of money. The alternative can be financially painful.

Best Wishes
Thanks I will have the battery tested. The battery has never been placed on external charger and has never been drained.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
724 Posts
Thanks I will have the battery tested. The battery has never been placed on external charger and has never been drained.
Sorry to hear about your problems.

Please check your relays (starter, injector), fuses (spark plug, crank/cam position sensor to ECU) and have your alternator load tested. Look for any burn or broken fuses. Try swapping your starter relay. Many auto shops will test alternator for free. You remove it and take it to the store. They can test if the voltage regulator got overloaded.
 

·
Registered
Drives : Nissan NV200 Flies : Rans S6ES
Joined
·
16,113 Posts
Thanks I will have the battery tested.
Have it tested, but the symptoms your describing don't point to a battery or charging system issue. If the battery was too discharged or too faulty to crank the engine the engine just wouldn't crank. No matter what you did with the keys or the clutch pedal.

Interesting that you say it will sometimes crank over without you having to press on the clutch. Did you always need to press on the clutch to make it crank before you started having this problem? I used to own a MK2 Getz as well. But mine never had a clutch switch.


If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Sorry to hear about your problems.

Please check your relays (starter, injector), fuses (spark plug, crank/cam position sensor to ECU) and have your alternator load tested. Look for any burn or broken fuses. Try swapping your starter relay. Many auto shops will test alternator for free. You remove it and take it to the store. They can test if the voltage regulator got overloaded.
Thanks
Have it tested, but the symptoms your describing don't point to a battery or charging system issue. If the battery was too discharged or too faulty to crank the engine the engine just wouldn't crank. No matter what you did with the keys or the clutch pedal.

Interesting that you say it will sometimes crank over without you having to press on the clutch. Did you always need to press on the clutch to make it crank before you started having this problem? I used to own a MK2 Getz as well. But mine never had a clutch switch.


If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated
Yes in the past had to put clutch in. Strange that it cranks with clutch out.
 

·
Registered
Drives : Nissan NV200 Flies : Rans S6ES
Joined
·
16,113 Posts
Yes in the past had to put clutch in.
Sounds to me like there is a problem with the clutch switch or it's wiring then.
And you should also check that the rubber pedal stopper isn't damaged or missing. That would stop the switch from being activated when you press on the pedal. Here is a photo from another Getz suffering from a no crank issue. Notice the hole where the pedal stopper should be...
455942

REPLACEMENT STOPPERS


If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
All I eventually decided to leave the car with auto electrician for investigation. He quickly worked out that it was the starter motor that hadn't fully died. Hence the conflict in the symptoms. In almost 50 years of driving I have never had a SM not fully die, but he tells me it does happened and in fact has another one to do next week. Thanks for your suggestions.
 

·
Registered
Drives : Nissan NV200 Flies : Rans S6ES
Joined
·
16,113 Posts
He quickly worked out that it was the starter motor that hadn't fully died.
Thanks for taking the time to post back and let us know the outcome. I wish more folk would do that (y)

If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top