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Discussion Starter #1
Engine starts easy and runs slightly unevenly. At idle there is white smoke emitted from the exhaust. When I increase the RPM the white smoke increases. At 2000 RPM there is a lot of smoke. Car drives but I do not want to drive it far with this fault. I suspected the O2 sensor but I can't find it - can someone tell where it is on this D3EA engine. I did check the O2 sensor wiring to the ECM and found wires in the ECM connector as per the wiring diagram.
 

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Are you sure it's smoke, or could it perhaps be steam? Hows the coolant level?

If it's smoke I'd suggest having the injectors tested. I think an injector leak would be a more cause of white smoke than a sensor issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Getz CRDI 3cyl 2005-white smoke all the time Edit Post

Yes , it is smoke - coolant level also ok.

I did disable the injectors one at a time and the amount of smoke remained virtually the same.

The common rail pressure regulator , pressure sensor and fuel filter were recently replaced. This due to engine revs shooting up from idle and lots of white smoke till engine had to be switched off. This happened twice. Also recently had to tap off 3l of oil from engine after attendant had overfilled it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I disconnected the injector and plugged an injector coil from an old injector into the injector connector.
 

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Low compression (and faulty glow plugs) will also cause the white smoke because there is not enough heat to ignite the fuel. My question is does it get better as the engine heats up? The uneven running should help locate what cylinder/cylinders are causing the problem which you should have noticed when you disconnected the injectors.
 

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Had an afterthought about your method of testing for a faulty injector. The ECU has a programmed idle speed and when you isolate a cylinder it will try to maintain the specified idle speed making it difficult to find the offending cylinder. Might pay to get a compression test done.
 

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I disconnected the injector and plugged an injector coil from an old injector into the injector connector.
Simply disconnecting the electrical supply to a faulty injector won't necessarily stop it from leaking fuel. You'd need isolate the fuel supply to the injector under test, not the electrical supply. I'm not sure that is something you'd want to try DIY though considering the extremely high fuel pressure in the common rail. I'd certainly suggest a much easier/quicker/safer injector leak off test first to see if there's an imbalance in the fuel spill from each injector before attempting to cap off ports on the fuel rail.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you very much for your ardent support.
I will do the injector leak off test and let you know the outcome.
 

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That test sounds interesting. How will you notice an imbalance supply from the rial? Perhaps it might be worth connecting a pressure gauge to the rail and see if it holds pressure or better still remove the injectors and have them tested. Make sure you label them for the correct cylinder reinstall if their OK.
 

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That test sounds interesting. How will you notice an imbalance supply from the rial?
You wont. It's not a test of the fuel supply.

charlescrown said:
Perhaps it might be worth connecting a pressure gauge to the rail and see if it holds pressure
You could try that but that's not a valid test on a CRD engine because CRD systems are designed to release the rail pressure when you shut the engine down.
You'd also need a pretty good gauge and plumbing considering the high pressures involved (3,000+ psi at idle, 20,000+ at full throttle).
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I did the leak off test and found injector 1 to be less than the other two. I replaced injector 1 and the engine ran smoother but still lots of white smoke and now I also noticed black soot which I'm not sure if it was there before. Leak off test now shows exactly even leak off on all 3 injectors. My assistant smelled the diesel that we collected from the leak off test and said that it does not smell like diesel. I smelled it and found it different to some clean diesel that I had in a can. It also looked slightly milky and a bit yellower than the new diesel. I checked with my daughter and she confirmed that it is impossible that petrol was inadvertently put into the tank. We then drained all the diesel from the tank and put 5l of new diesel into the tank. The engine now runs almost perfect. I'll road test the car tomorrow and report back.
 

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I checked with my daughter and she confirmed that it is impossible that petrol was inadvertently put into the tank.
Yeah, now she tells you :laugh:

hebemabo said:
We then drained all the diesel from the tank and put 5l of new diesel into the tank. The engine now runs almost perfect. I'll road test the car tomorrow and report back.
Hopefully you've sorted it...fingers crossed.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Is the milky and yellowish appearance of the contaminated diesel a sign that it contaminated with petrol?

I have now gleaned that the last diesel (21l) was put in the tank when it had about 10l in it. The car had traveled about 450Km when all **** broke loose (approx 6l left in the tank).
 

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If petrol has been put in I hope it hasn't damaged the high pressure pump. We had a few shonky fuel dealers selling shandy blends of who knows what and it caused major problems with cars and trucks. We had one truck barely driveable after filling up and the fuel stunk. Drained it and refilled it and all was fine. Good luck.
Measuring the fuel pressure! I do it with my scantool live data but I an sure there are gauge sets out there capable of measuring it.
 

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Measuring the fuel pressure....I an sure there are gauge sets out there capable of measuring it.
Of course there is. I think the cost of one will be a bit beyond the average DIY guy wanting to perform a one off test though.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
So I didn't road test the car as the white smoke reappeared when the engine was warm and using fresh diesel. The engine starts perfectly and idles nicely. Then leave it to warm up for about five minutes and the white smoke starts. If I rev the engine to 2000rpm the smoke increases dramatically. When the temp gauge is at normal then there is a lot of smoke even at idle and much more when the engine is revved up.
I have not yet found a compression tester but hope to get one soon. In the mean time I removed the inlet manifold as I had seen some black gunk at it's inlet. The manifold orifices and the head inlet ports were almost completely filled with a black oily sludge. The inter-cooler also had about a 1/2 cupful of oil in it. I cleaned all that out and reassembled. I think the sludge and oil in the manifold and inter-cooler was due to the recent overfilling of the engine with about 3l of oil. This exercise made no difference to the amount of white smoke the engine produces. I also did a pressure test of the cooling system and that is all OK. Also checked the PCV and found only little puffs there.
If I don't find a compression gauge soon then I'll look at fabricating one from an old glow plug and a high pressure gauge.
Oh , I forgot to mention: I did block off the rail to injector ports one at a time but that made no difference to the amount of white smoke. Also scanned the ECU - no OBD DTCs.
 

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Put a rag near the exhaust and see if you can get some vapor on it then give it a smell. You should be able to determine if it's fuel, oil or coolant.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
It definitely smells like burnt oil. If I stand near the exhaust too long my eyes sting.
After seeing some pictures of white smoke from diesels on the internet I would say that my smoke is actually grey.
 
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