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This isn't a Ford Explorer forum. Its for Hyundais. And, I don't need to talk to a snake oil saleman for anything sweet talking. Nothing substantial on their website. If they had any real concrete, or critique-able SAE papers, love to see that, as I or my peers would pick it apart.

FTC is not a threat. Its the search for truth. And, they corrected many 'marketing' clowns with unsubstantiated claims. I don't get a commission for any products I use or recommend or test.
We are all entitled to our opinions so don't attack someone who has different opinions than yours!
Sure didn't take me long to find this forum s bully poster did it!
 

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I used the CDC at 12k miles. I removed the air filter and sprayed it into the intake hose from there. Easy process, great results. Smoother idle, better low rpm response, and improved gas mileage. I'll continue to do it every 12k. For $12 a can, seems like a no-brainer to prevent long term carbon buildup.
I've used CRC on my Tucson and Mini on several occasions. My understanding is that they don't want you spraying the product prior to the MAF sensor to avoid possible damage. Isn't spraying it into the intake from the filter housing doing just that, getting it on the MAF?
 

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I've used CRC on my Tucson and Mini on several occasions. My understanding is that they don't want you spraying the product prior to the MAF sensor to avoid possible damage. Isn't spraying it into the intake from the filter housing doing just that, getting it on the MAF?
You should pop the hood and find the MAF sensor. Let us how that search goes.
 
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Call Brain over at BND and ask him!
I have oil sample results from my 2001 Ford explorer sport trac with 207,000 miles on original engine to make my point. Change the engine oil and filter every 12,000 miles when I do the sample.
No need on your part for all the name calling and threats!
You are right about what you post to do when using store bought oil!
Just wanted on my part to add info to the forum and share my experience of products that are working for me!
Thought that's what this forum is for not trying to sell or scam anyone.
is your ford gdi? i dont think so. do you even know what gdi is?
 

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Call Brain over at BND and ask him!
I have oil sample results from my 2001 Ford explorer sport trac with 207,000 miles on original engine to make my point. Change the engine oil and filter every 12,000 miles when I do the sample.
No need on your part for all the name calling and threats!
You are right about what you post to do when using store bought oil!
Just wanted on my part to add info to the forum and share my experience of products that are working for me!
Thought that's what this forum is for not trying to sell or scam anyone.
is your ford gdi? i dont think so. do you even know what gdi is?
No.......gdi what's that?..........Lol
 

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Considering adding SeaFoam Engine treatment to oil approximately 300 miles before next oil change. Have done so with previous vehicles however, have not done so with turbo GDI engine.
 

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2017 Sonata Sport 2.0T
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I've used CRC on my Tucson and Mini on several occasions. My understanding is that they don't want you spraying the product prior to the MAF sensor to avoid possible damage. Isn't spraying it into the intake from the filter housing doing just that, getting it on the MAF?
Hyundai does not use a MAF and that is what you have to avoid but spraying after the MAF sensor. Our engines use a MAP it is ok to just go down the intake and it will clean the throttle body and if you have a turbo the turbo as well

The Sonata forum has a lot of info on this. Ive used it 3x in 44,000 miles IMO best $10-12 you can use to maintain a clean intake and reduce carbon buildup
 

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2017 Sonata Sport 2.0T
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Considering adding SeaFoam Engine treatment to oil approximately 300 miles before next oil change. Have done so with previous vehicles however, have not done so with turbo GDI engine.
Seafoam in the oil will not help out with the intake carbon buildup in the GDI. It is caused by the engine blow by gases redirected into the intake manifold and no fuel being injected into the intake to allow additives to clean the back side of the intake valve.
Seafoam into the intake or CRC GDI intake cleaner or any of the similar is what you have to do to clean the back side of the intake. On BMW and VW they often recommend walnut blasting for this problem.
 

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xaran, thank you for follow up. I understand regarding carbon buildup issue not being resolved by using additives in oil or fuel, but rather adding directly into the intake via throttle body (which I do). Will adding additives (SeaFoam, Chevron Techron, RedLine Sl1 etc.), to engine oil / fuel, still benefit engine internals?
 

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TooGqForYou, I too use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-30 and 93 octane fuel. Thought perhaps this additional step same time as oil change intervals, would be beneficial. Have you used Chevron Techron Complete Fuel System Cleaner at all? Thinking of add that as well during oil change intervals.
well done! you shouldn't have much to worry about as long as your oil change intervals are 3k - 3500 miles max. I will utilize a fuel system additive before every other oil change for safe measure.

I currently vent 3 ports to atmosphere so i dont ever have to worry about blowby going back in. (pcv, breather & oil cap/clean side Seperator)
 

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Does the 2016 Tucson with 1.6 TGDI have a MAF sensor? I didn't notice any along air intake duct. Usually there will be a electrical connection attached to the MAF sensor. Can anyone confirm?
 

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From what I have gleaned on the forum, it does not have a Maf sensor. Just spray into the air intake throat according to some people.
 

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I spoke with a technician at my Hyundai dealership who was very familiar with this issue. He recommended spraying the cleaner directly into the throttle body. The flex hose leading into the throttle body is secured by a hose clamp with an 11mm bolt head. Loosening the clamp allows the hose to be pulled off far enough to easily insert the cleaner’s spray tube into the opening. The dealership offers this service as part of their 30k service package, for a little over a hundred dollars. Obviously, it’s worth performing this on your own. P.S. By all means, skip any ideas for holding the throttle at the right RPM with some sort of device, and have someone else modulate the throttle for you!
 

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wallyjay, thanks for follow up and confirmation.

AAREagle, I found myself confronted with same issue (keeping engine at suggested RPMS while spraying CRC cleaner into throttle body alone). I wedged PVC pipe between pedal and seat until desired RPM was reached and left it until process was completed).
 

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Hi again,
Are you guys doing this to the rubo version? I was taking a peak at that hose posted in a picture earlier and it leads to the turbo?
Maybe I'm wrong. Anyone with the turbo version care to post some pics indicating where they sprayed this can? I would greatly appreciate it.

Cheers
 
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