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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,
So my 2016 Tucson Limited 1.6T is just about two years old and has about 34K km's on it.

I've found myself on youtube last weekend, deep in the rabbits hole and stumbled on how all GDI engines are prone to carbonization buildup.

I found that some of the best stuff on the market right now (aside from installing oil catch cans - which I plan on doing soon) is CRC intake valve and turbo cleaner. (Link here - GDI IVD? Intake Valve & Turbo Cleaner, 311 Grams - Cleaner/Degreaser - Automotive)


Has anyone tried this out? I'm trying to find the correct spot to spray this stuff into, but can't find a good access point to the intake manifold.

I've also been recommended spraying towards the back in the throttle body - but wouldn't that go through the intercooler before heading into the intake manifold? I'm not sure if that's the best spot to spray it.

I took it into the dealer last week before work, and had a service tech call one of the mechanics from the back to help me understand the best place to spray the can. I was shocked he didn't know where would be best, and it seemed the service tech was a little embarrassed.

They both ultimately told me to just return the bottle, and it wasn't necessary.

I'm going on a roadtrip from Calgary to Kelowna (700 kms) on Wednesday and have an oil change scheduled for tomorrow.

Don't think i'll be able to spray this can in before the roadtrip, but hopefully someone has some experience and can help me out!

Thanks guys!
 

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how often are your oil changes? what kind of fuel are you using? what type of oil? have you utilized any additives?

Bet that tech didnt wanna tell you on purpose cuz $$$.
 

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Most techs are clueless and can only do what is in the FSM... so, you rely on the aftermarket to provide products/methodology to order to make up for 'pathetic engineering'.

You remove air filter and spray directly in the opening that feeds the engine... its that simple and you need a 'helper' to keep the engine running at a sustainable rpm while you spray the can.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
how often are your oil changes? what kind of fuel are you using? what type of oil? have you utilized any additives?

Bet that tech didnt wanna tell you on purpose cuz $$$.
I stick to the maintenance schedule for oil changes.
Always upgrade to synthetic.
I was using the regular fuel until I saw the video on carbon buildup, and decided top tier gas is probably best.

There was one time I opted to have Hyundai put a fuel additive during my service, but I just realized that stuff doesn't help clean intake valve buildup as fuel is sprayed directly into the cylinder.

The funny thing is the tech to put the bottle in my car free of charge since I bought the can and have an oil change appt already.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Most techs are clueless and can only do what is in the FSM... so, you rely on the aftermarket to provide products/methodology to order to make up for 'pathetic engineering'.

You remove air filter and spray directly in the opening that feeds the engine... its that simple and you need a 'helper' to keep the engine running at a sustainable rpm while you spray the can.
Thanks for that reply. I appreciate it.
I'll give it a go tonight.
I'll take the air filter out and spray right into the opening where the air filter goes.
Have you ever used this product yourself? Notice any difference? Better mileage / fuel efficiency ?
 

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https://www.hyundai-forums.com/yf-2...001-2-4gdi-crc-ivd-intake-valve-cleaning.html

Some comparison photos, videos, links... may not be working anymore but the above has some info... its worth a complete read and draw your own conclusion. Tinypic isn't HTTPS and forums don't show tinypic photos with certain browsers... I'll have to dig thru to see if I can host them elsewhere one day. Internet Explorer with 'show all content' will show Tinypic pictures for those of you with Firefox or Chromium based browsers for the above link.

I recommend the CRC and the competitor products at some time or mileage based interval for you to decide. Every couple years or 10k-20k miles is a good starting point.
 

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I popped off the pcv valve suction tube and sprayed into the tube. Did mine at about 25k miles. I saw a slight uptick in mileage which I assumed is from the cleaning. Also was the beginning of summer, so it could have just been a warm weather mileage increase. At least I feel as though I am heading off a possible carbon buildup. More of a preventive maintenance than anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
https://www.hyundai-forums.com/yf-2...001-2-4gdi-crc-ivd-intake-valve-cleaning.html

Some comparison photos, videos, links... may not be working anymore but the above has some info... its worth a complete read and draw your own conclusion. Tinypic isn't HTTPS and forums don't show tinypic photos with certain browsers... I'll have to dig thru to see if I can host them elsewhere one day. Internet Explorer with 'show all content' will show Tinypic pictures for those of you with Firefox or Chromium based browsers for the above link.

I recommend the CRC and the competitor products at some time or mileage based interval for you to decide. Every couple years or 10k-20k miles is a good starting point.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate you taking the time to dig that up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I popped off the pcv valve suction tube and sprayed into the tube. Did mine at about 25k miles. I saw a slight uptick in mileage which I assumed is from the cleaning. Also was the beginning of summer, so it could have just been a warm weather mileage increase. At least I feel as though I am heading off a possible carbon buildup. More of a preventive maintenance than anything.
You're absolutely right! I'm trying to get on top of this sooner than later.
 

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Gaining access to intake opening with CRC can will be challenging!
I removed the air inlet duct from the air cleaner box, then removed top small hose from air inlet duct (there are three) and then removed other end of air inlet duct from intake / throttle body. Left all other segments of air inlet duct attached. This allowed inlet duct enough maneuverability, to move away from intake throttle body, and have enough room to spray CRC GDI IVD Intake Valve & Turbo Cleaner directly into throttle body holding can upside down.
I started vehicle and wedged PVC pipe between accelerator pedal and seat to keep engine RPM at 2,000 RPM's. Sprayed bursts into throttle body until engine began to stall, then stopped and repeated process until can was empty. Removed PVC pipe and let engine idle normal for a minute and turned off. Waited for about an hour and drove for about 15 minutes on highway to complete process. "Check Engine Light" never came on.
I assume alternative to removing inlet duct to expose throttle body would be to remove hose from PVC valve and spray CRC into hose as wallyjay suggested.

 

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thank God i dont have to deal with this crap. venting to atmosphere & using PUP 5w30 & 91 octane has proven best results for me. no carbon buildup no cleaning of the throttle body, intercooler, intake etc. :)
 

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TooGqForYou, I too use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-30 and 93 octane fuel. Thought perhaps this additional step same time as oil change intervals, would be beneficial. Have you used Chevron Techron Complete Fuel System Cleaner at all? Thinking of add that as well during oil change intervals.
 

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If you use the right kind of oil and fuel supplement you shouldn't have to worry about carbon build up!
That is incorrect. The GDI system on our engines has no fuel going into the intake or over the intake valves but it does get the engine blowby from the emissions system so they are very prone to intake valve carbon build up. Using top tier fuel and an occasional if you choose to use a fuel additive in the gas tank will help keep the injectors and combustion chamber clean but will not touch the back side of the intake valves.

Other manufactures use a combination od port injection and GDI so some fuel is in the intake and cleans the back side of the intake valves.

On the LF forum many of us have been using CRC GDI Intake System or similar products to help clean the intake and if you have a turbo the impellers as well.

It is a simple process spray as directed into the intake, some go through a vacumn hose and some (me) go directly into the intake just after the air cleaner, it will not hurt the intercooler , it will also help clean the throttle body and the turbo (if you are a turbo engine). You can just remove the air cleaner and spray into the intake hose or you can loosen the clamp at the air cleaner box and slip the tube in there and spray. Takes 10-15 minutes and a can of CRC is $10-12, cheap insurance for every 20000 -30,000 miles. many dealers will try to sell you a GDI cleaning at $ 100-150 and it is basically the same, they pressurize the injecyors to clean them and then also run cleaner through the intake .

Go to CRC to see some pretty black and white before and after info

https://www.crcindustries.com/how-to-use-crc-gdi-ivd-intake-valve-turbo-cleaner/

threads
https://www.hyundai-forums.com/lf-2015-sonata-i45/642267-crc-intake-cleaning-access.html
 

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I will refraise my statement if you use the oil and fuel supplement that I use you won't have to worry about carbon build up on the intake valve because there will be little blow by to worry about!
BNDautomotive.com
 

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Its a GDI issue.... no fuel or oil can prevent it completely and no snake oil does a thing. Toyota, Ford... use double MPFI + GDI to avoid the issue. Fords 1st attempt was using intake VVT to wash the valves.... it didn't work as well as the hype and they starting switching to double injectors like Toyota does with D4s.

An engine needs nothing but top tier fuel. If you don't use or have top tier fuel, Hyundai rebottles an FI cleaner that they recommend as part of regular maintenance. Nothing else is needed on the fueling side except octane, which should be high enough to avoid needing the knock sensor. I find that the knock sensor is vocal with 87 too often and NEVER use 87. I'm usually refilling with US 89, 92, 93... depending on station pricing and outside temperatures. I would never use anything but 92/93 on the 1.6T. And, if there are any driveability problems with the 2.0/2.4, I would use more octane to see if issue subsides.... especially during heatwave summer months where even a non-turbo engine can benefit from octane's knock reducing help.

ANY full synthetic oil should work just fine for ANY engine. And, with SN/GF5 soon to be upgraded, I'd wager that ANY conventional oil is all that ANY Hyundai engine needs. The big issues is the frequency of the oil change and the dipstick oil level. The hot oil level should be at the optimum top point 5 minutes after shutdown. Keep the oil full. If you're not sure about the oil change interval, follow your severe service interval in your maintenance guide and owners manual. You can't go wrong with severe service interval, especially if you use conventional oil. No oil makes up for seriously diluted oil, seriously low oil levels, or forgetful eternal intervals.

Carbon buildup will occur on a GDI engine no matter what fuel you use, no matter how often you change your oil, no matter the oil type/grade, and no matter what snake oil you add to your fuel/oil/coffeecup. It will happen and is usually a combination of all, along with owner's driving style and local weather conditions.

The direct path of cleaning, like the motorvacs or CRC cleaners, can reduce buildup considerably. If the buildup is excessive, it'll require..... BLASTING MEDIA. Yes, some dealers will sandblast the intake ports/valves with a walnut shell media, or other softer blasting media supposedly not damaging to the engine. I prefer a more frequent usage of a 'spray can straw' to prevent it from ever becoming excessive.

I am at 59k miles on my 2.4GDI engine. It will have its 20th oil change really soon. It will get its 20th bottle of FI cleaner, usually PEA based to keep the injectors spray pattern clear and good. It will get its 3rd transmission drain/refill. And, I will probably do its 3rd intake valve/port cleaning. The AEM air filter will be vacuumed, or maybe soaped, washed, and rinsed. And, my brake fluid will be bled for the 3rd time. Compare those intervals to yours? And, my engine runs just fine on Supertech oil, as it would with any overpriced boutique oil.

BND.... so oklap1200r is just a scammer.... Does BND have any independent lab testing to prove any of their statements? Or, should I file more FTC complaints? The clowns at the Mopar foums push this snake oil.... just like Cerma was being pushed on some honda/mazda forums... along with other wallet emptying additives/oils.
 
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I used the CDC at 12k miles. I removed the air filter and sprayed it into the intake hose from there. Easy process, great results. Smoother idle, better low rpm response, and improved gas mileage. I'll continue to do it every 12k. For $12 a can, seems like a no-brainer to prevent long term carbon buildup.
 

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Call Brain over at BND and ask him!
I have oil sample results from my 2001 Ford explorer sport trac with 207,000 miles on original engine to make my point. Change the engine oil and filter every 12,000 miles when I do the sample.
No need on your part for all the name calling and threats!
You are right about what you post to do when using store bought oil!
Just wanted on my part to add info to the forum and share my experience of products that are working for me!
Thought that's what this forum is for not trying to sell or scam anyone.
 

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This isn't a Ford Explorer forum. Its for Hyundais. And, I don't need to talk to a snake oil saleman for anything sweet talking. Nothing substantial on their website. If they had any real concrete, or critique-able SAE papers, love to see that, as I or my peers would pick it apart.

FTC is not a threat. Its the search for truth. And, they corrected many 'marketing' clowns with unsubstantiated claims. I don't get a commission for any products I use or recommend or test.
 
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