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The topic of THETA 2 GDI crapping out is like really old news,, been going on for yrs now with 2.4 & 20T GDI knocking or seizing,, and to this day we are still seeing them come in either knocking,, or towed in with engine seized.. story I hear at our place is we done about 80 replacement, I have couple received that motor is here for to do if I can get there to do them

If your Theta pukes, 99% likely Hyundai Motor allow us to replace engine..

The current engine test everybody showing up for,,, what god is test on engine with 20-50,000 mile ?? they dont have any hrs on them,, kinda waste of dealer times, as some end up puking later down road after inspection done when they have more hrs / miles on them
Are you replacing engines in the LF too?
 

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Are you replacing engines in the LF too?
Nope, no WARRANTY engines with LFA

Busy right now with rash of P-010000 cam timing DTC due to cam plug pop out,, thought that was remedy with 2015 recall to set cam plug depth with SST,, now they coming back with plug popped out,,, maybe severe cold goof with oil and pressure on plug, I dont know.. we done upward of 20 maybe in last couple week, I know first of Jan I had 3 to do in 1 sitting, but we only had 2 plug, dealer with no morals sold us an "old" style part with "new part number" on invoice,, I refused to install it,, so number 3 had to wait till next day..

"Dumber" beside me had 1 come in with noise, they bought it used, has cam time codes and rattle near CVVT...... barely oil on dipstick bottom, black thick goo on dipstick, and black goo see when oil cap removed.. we change oil and advised, cleared codes I think, they come back the other day stating MIL illuminated.. told and showed 2 advisors that it a "MUD" motor, and they just going to have to deal with it.. young advisor ask if we should do "PA" Request,, other says NO WAY,, it a mud motor..... Been there, done that, they seen pics on one I had last summer, they (Hyundai "PA") flat out deny request due to lack of maintain.
 

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"Mud motors" are why there are plenty of class actions. These pathetically negligent owners join along with class actions even though they caused their own issues. Other automakers felt the pain of stupid judges siding against corporations when the issue was caused by the consumer. I shouldn't have to prove my maintenance if my spotless engine seizes. But, I have no problem for the automaker to request maintenance records when the engine is full of sludge. Sometimes the well maintained engine fails and the good consumer feels the pain caused by the stupid consumer.

I don't have an automatically popping out plug to worry about. Something like that might need a coat of sealant to keep it in place. But, it makes you wonder what fool approved a press in plug that is required to hold back oil pressure? Couldn't be drilled/tapped for pipe plug? Couldn't have a cover with an SST dimple bolted on to hold it in place?

Automaker denial and stupid engineering are valid issues for class actions.
 

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"Mud motors" are why there are plenty of class actions. These pathetically negligent owners join along with class actions even though they caused their own issues.

I was at training, and fella in class was telling about how they have an engine that was already replaced in past, full of mud,,, and is getting 2nd long block.... help me out here,, everybody in the class room was kinda set back by this

Something like that might need a coat of sealant to keep it in place. But, it makes you wonder what fool approved a press in plug that is required to hold back oil pressure?
Rubber circumferenced plug in a smooth bored hole with some oil behind it..

Couldn't be drilled/tapped for pipe plug?
The bore provides access to bolt holding CVVT to end of camshaft..

Couldn't have a cover with an SST dimple bolted on to hold it in place?
It is in a "dry" zone.. no oil to be inside the cover you see that carry the brushbox..

Automaker denial and stupid engineering are valid issues for class actions.
Here is pic or 2 of exposed CVVT to show bore with bolt in middle, and the 2 slip rings that brushes ride to apply power to CVVT for advance-retard of cam... see plug in the oil in the bottom of cover,, this is supposed to be a clean - dry zone..... until CVVT plug pop out and flood with oil



 

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how much oil can leak into there? is it enough to overflow and leak into the floor or will it 'burn' while in there?
Exterior plug is a vent,, fill it with enough oil and it'll start to squirt out the hole,, providing the cam plug not cover the hole,, had 1 that pee oil out as engine run in a small stream..

 

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Here is pic or 2 of exposed CVVT to show bore with bolt in middle, and the 2 slip rings that brushes ride to apply power to CVVT for advance-retard of cam... see plug in the oil in the bottom of cover,, this is supposed to be a clean - dry zone..... until CVVT plug pop out and flood with oil
Do you recommend installing a threaded plug or doing anything as a DIY?
(Is this only '15, '16 motors?)
 

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Nope, no WARRANTY engines with LFA

Busy right now with rash of P-010000 cam timing DTC due to cam plug pop out,, thought that was remedy with 2015 recall to set cam plug depth with SST,, now they coming back with plug popped out,,, maybe severe cold goof with oil and pressure on plug, I dont know.. we done upward of 20 maybe in last couple week, I know first of Jan I had 3 to do in 1 sitting, but we only had 2 plug, dealer with no morals sold us an "old" style part with "new part number" on invoice,, I refused to install it,, so number 3 had to wait till next day..

"Dumber" beside me had 1 come in with noise, they bought it used, has cam time codes and rattle near CVVT...... barely oil on dipstick bottom, black thick goo on dipstick, and black goo see when oil cap removed.. we change oil and advised, cleared codes I think, they come back the other day stating MIL illuminated.. told and showed 2 advisors that it a "MUD" motor, and they just going to have to deal with it.. young advisor ask if we should do "PA" Request,, other says NO WAY,, it a mud motor..... Been there, done that, they seen pics on one I had last summer, they (Hyundai "PA") flat out deny request due to lack of maintain.
I'm not a tech so if you could explain these acronyms;
DTC
SST
PA
MUD
MIL

I know what CVVT is.

It's great having an actual Hyundai Master Tech on the forum!

Thanks!
 

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DTC....Diagnostic Trouble Code
SST...Special service tool
PA........LOL,I just read the referenced post,it is not that.....:wacko:
MUD.....
MIL......Malfunction indicator light


Not too sure of 3 or 4
 

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I'm not a tech so if you could explain these acronyms;
DTC -- Diagnostic Trouble Code

SST -- Special Service Tool

PA -- Prior Authoriazation,, we have to do "PA" Request if we want to replace engine or transmission, or Goodwill repair

MUD -- Sludge, gel, pudding

MIL -- Malfunction Indicator Light

I know what CVVT is.

It's great having an actual Hyundai Master Tech on the forum!

Thanks!
All above is common used accepted terms used in writing claim,, EXCEPT for "MUD"... then we have use wording like "gel due to lack of maintain"..
 

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sbr711, thanks for your answers.

Those brush connections for the electric CVVT. They remind me of the DC generators used on cars before alternators became the norm. I remember watching my dad replace the worn brushes on a 1960 Pontiac. The process was easy enough. A couple of screws and small assembly came off the top. Brushes connected to wires and springs to keep the brushes in contact with the rotating generator. The car had over 100,000 miles, which was a lot for a car of that era. So they lasted a long time.

Can you see a time when these brush connectors will need replacing on the Sonata LF?
Even if it does, it's easy enough to get to. I'm sure any guy who can change his own oil could swap out that part. Might as well replace that rubber seal while you're in there.
 

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"Mud motors" are why there are plenty of class actions. These pathetically negligent owners join along with class actions even though they caused their own issues. Other automakers felt the pain of stupid judges siding against corporations when the issue was caused by the consumer. I shouldn't have to prove my maintenance if my spotless engine seizes. But, I have no problem for the automaker to request maintenance records when the engine is full of sludge. Sometimes the well maintained engine fails and the good consumer feels the pain caused by the stupid consumer.

Tell that to the owners of Chryslers who did normal maintenance only to have their engines turn to sludge because of the defective design. IMHO the federal government is partially to blame. They make it mandatory to come up with higher and higher MPG numbers and part of how that is done is by using the oil pumps that change volume and pressure based on engine speed. Get the engine nice and hot and then supply it with 10psi at idle.
 

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Owner's always claimed to do 'normal' maintenance. I serviced plenty of the 2.7 Mopar sludge monsters and Toyotas with the sludging 2.2/3.0. None of the engines with 'real' service sludged. 'Normal' maintenance doesn't work when the owner needs severe service. And, normal maintenance is useless if the engine runs out of oil before the next service. Too hard to use a dipstick?
 

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I have the 2017 Sonata 2.4L (non-turbo) ... For one , I believe this is the same engine as the 2016 and two , is there anything oil - wise an owner can do to minimize the supposed restricted oil flow issues ?
 

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...and part of how that is done is by using the oil pumps that change volume and pressure based on engine speed. Get the engine nice and hot and then supply it with 10psi at idle.
Oil pumps have always provided more volume (pressure) with higher rpm. That is what a positive displacement pump does. 10psi hot oil pressure at idle has been the standard on all my vehicles going back 30+ years.

This has nothing to do with mandated MPG.
 
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