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Fuel Gauge Stays At Empty (not Working) 07 Santa Fe

180K views 129 replies 42 participants last post by  Mycrossover 
#1 ·
Did anyone face similar problem?? my 07 Sant Fe fuel guage doesn't seem to be working. what can the problem be?? thanks
 
#2 ·
QUOTE (Aben Dean @ Nov 28 2010, 12:48 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=375231
Did anyone face similar problem?? my 07 Sant Fe fuel guage doesn't seem to be working. what can the problem be?? thanks
Could well be the gauge or wiring to it. There are two senders in your tank (one per side), and if they didn't agree within tolerance, you'd also be getting an error code or two starting with 46X. You don't have a Check Engine lit, do you?
 
#3 ·
We is always replacing level senders in Santa Fe and Veracruz.. I have not had to do any, royal pain to get at, Hundai not pay what they worth for us to replace.
 
#6 ·
Just to verify -- did you have the Check Engine light on when this occurred, and did you have a tool to scan for a code 0461 or 2065?

Nice work with the custom pin - bugger to access. With a single dealer within a few hundred miles, you guys must get creative on a regular basis while waiting for parts, eh?
 
#7 ·
QUOTE (Aben Dean @ Nov 27 2010, 11:48 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=375231
Did anyone face similar problem?? my 07 Sant Fe fuel guage doesn't seem to be working. what can the problem be?? thanks
Yes, I had a similar problem, the gauge was staying at half tank after filling it up.
Took the suv to the dealer and got it fixed under warranty.
They had to remove the rear seats and the tank to fix the issue....
 
#85 ·
QUOTE (Aben Dean @ Nov 27 2010, 11:48 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=375231
Yes, I had a similar problem, the gauge was staying at half tank after filling it up.
Took the suv to the dealer and got it fixed under warranty.
They had to remove the rear seats and the tank to fix the issue....
If it is a Santa Fe they did not remove the tank. I have replaced mine. The rear seat comes out, the rug folds back and a big porthole in the top of the tank is removed with a special tool. You can now access the fuel pump with one sender in the drivers side and the auxulliary sender on the passenger side.
Thanks, but the senders new senders went in exactly as the old ones were. I made sure of this by taking pictures of the assemblies as they came out.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
#8 ·
QUOTE (canderson @ Nov 28 2010, 10:41 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=375274
Could well be the gauge or wiring to it. There are two senders in your tank (one per side), and if they didn't agree within tolerance, you'd also be getting an error code or two starting with 46X. You don't have a Check Engine lit, do you?
I wanted to ask a question regarding this as I too am having a problem with my fuel as of late. 2007 3.3 model.

A few months ago my engine light came on. Then a day or two later problems with the fuel gauge (light on) occurred. There was ample fuel in the tank. I will explain more below. Took the car in and they stated the engine error was related to a fuel sensor. I could dig up the bill but wonder if the actual error code would be listed.

The pattern has been:
a) The fuel light goes on and stays on - even after repeated starts
B) Eventually the fuel light goes off - and the fuel gauge crawls back up very slowly.

Today out of no where I noticed twice when I started the car, the light came on and then very quickly went off and the level started go to higher (to 1/4) then down (to 1/8) then back to (1/4) then down to (1/8) before stopping at 1/4.

Since the original engine light came on, it has not repeated. And the fuel has been intermittent.

Sounds like the dealer didn't diagnose the problem and the issue is related to this problem. Sounds like my problem is related to what is being discussed.

Of course am I out of gas? I use both user odometers to keep track of fuel. B is reset when I fill the tank and A is reset when the light goes on initially (I clock typically 50km after A is reset). I don't always fill up but under the current condition I probably will do that so at least I know where the fuel will be when B hits certain known points. Of course, and plan to go to the dealer.

I don't know - the car has just under 60,000 and already had the alternator replaced and small but rather critical things like this. I have to wonder.

But at least I am not alone - not that, that really makes things better. OTOH, knowing this is happening to others - it probably isn't cold related which is good to know.

Cheers!
belly
 
#93 ·
QUOTE (canderson @ Nov 28 2010, 10:41 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=375274

I wanted to ask a question regarding this as I too am having a problem with my fuel as of late. 2007 3.3 model.

A few months ago my engine light came on. Then a day or two later problems with the fuel gauge (light on) occurred. There was ample fuel in the tank. I will explain more below. Took the car in and they stated the engine error was related to a fuel sensor. I could dig up the bill but wonder if the actual error code would be listed.

The pattern has been:
a) The fuel light goes on and stays on - even after repeated starts
B) Eventually the fuel light goes off - and the fuel gauge crawls back up very slowly.

Today out of no where I noticed twice when I started the car, the light came on and then very quickly went off and the level started go to higher (to 1/4) then down (to 1/8) then back to (1/4) then down to (1/8) before stopping at 1/4.

Since the original engine light came on, it has not repeated. And the fuel has been intermittent.

Sounds like the dealer didn't diagnose the problem and the issue is related to this problem. Sounds like my problem is related to what is being discussed.

Of course am I out of gas? I use both user odometers to keep track of fuel. B is reset when I fill the tank and A is reset when the light goes on initially (I clock typically 50km after A is reset). I don't always fill up but under the current condition I probably will do that so at least I know where the fuel will be when B hits certain known points. Of course, and plan to go to the dealer.

I don't know - the car has just under 60,000 and already had the alternator replaced and small but rather critical things like this. I have to wonder.

But at least I am not alone - not that, that really makes things better. OTOH, knowing this is happening to others - it probably isn't cold related which is good to know.

Cheers!
belly
You have no idea how many others. This is a never ending thread. The low fuel light gets it's information from the senders so if the senders incorrectly read low the light will be on. The most annoying thing is that the part of the sender that fails actually snaps right off but they screw you for the whole assembly. Though from a business point of view they don't want to do it twice.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
#9 ·
QUOTE (bellyman @ Feb 2 2011, 11:39 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=397848
I don't know - the car has just under 60,000 and already had the alternator replaced and small but rather critical things like this.
I'd be sure to get it back in there while you've still got warranty. Replacing those units (there's a pair of them back there) is a bit of a PITA due to location, and there's some labor involved, so you don't want to be out of pocket for this. Your previous bill SHOULD have indicated the codes. That's SOP at most dealers, and simple good practice. I'd expect you had a 046x and possibly a 2065. While such codes could point to a faulty sending unit - and that's not uncommon on your vehicle - the fact that the problem returned almost immediately indicates a faulty repair or a missed problem. It's much more likely a bad sending unit than wiring, but either can get you the symptoms you report. They need to be thorough this time.
 
#10 ·
I am still well within warranty and need to get the car serviced for a tie rod problem. Yeah, 60,000km and already tie problems. Last time I had those was 20 years ago with my $5000 Topaz. Unreal.

Anyways as per the fuel ...

The invoice states:
Complaint: The check engine light stays on [it actually was on and after a number of restarts, the light went off]
- Fuel light comes on and off.

Cause: P2273 H02S Signal Stuck rich bank 2 sensor 2
Correction: Replaced oxygen sensor bank 2 sensor 2

Clearly now the light has come on again and shown absolute issues - without any engine light. I understand there is a problem and will report this problem entirely. I will write up a document that outlines my issues (prefer that than just 'telling them' and they write down every 25th word).

If indeed that cause is coming from the computer, is it correct to assume based on that code, they changed the right part? Is it also possible that in fact the fuel light (/fuel level) problem happened at the same time and was just purely coincidental? They just replaced the sensor and assumed all was well?

In other words, is the cause above directly related to the fuel levels? My gut says there were two issues, and they assumed the sensor would solve the check engine problem and probably (IMO) dismissed the fuel level issue entirely.

Anyways, will be going in within the next couple of weeks and will advise. It would be best for the fuel level sensors to just fail instead of taking it in when there is nothing occurring - but that would be wishful thinking.

Thanks canderson
belly
 
#11 ·
QUOTE (bellyman @ Feb 3 2011, 11:12 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=398223
Cause: P2273 H02S Signal Stuck rich bank 2 sensor 2
Correction: Replaced oxygen sensor bank 2 sensor 2
...
In other words, is the cause above directly related to the fuel levels? My gut says there were two issues, and they assumed the sensor would solve the check engine problem and probably (IMO) dismissed the fuel level issue entirely.
Negative. The code listed above is NOT related to a faulty fuel level sensor. It was related to one of your O2 sensors (in oversimplified terms, measures the 'quality' of your exhaust stream).

IF that's all the codes that were present, I'm surprised. A serious mismatch between the signals from the two fuel sensors should have set off a code of its own.
 
#12 ·
My new to me (just 2 weeks) 2007 gls just had this same issue. There was indeed a code related to the sensing unit. Did you ever take it back it to have them check the codes again - I agree with canderson - it sounds like you had two issues and they just fixed one of them.

As a side note, do Hyundai dealers typically keep these things in stock? My car is still under warranty until either November or 60K (right now it just turned 52K), but the non-Hyundai dealer I bought it from wanted me to bring it back to them for their 30-day warranty. I ended up doing that because the Hyundai dealer I called warned me that if the check engine light was non-warranty related, they would charge me a $90 diagnostic fee, whereas any check engine light reading within 30 days was free at the dealer where I purchased. Anyway, the shop I took it to had to order the part, and ended up ordering the wrong sender unit of the two, then having to get the correct one. Ended up taking a week... they had a loaner for me (a Trailblazer - what a heap of junk, but that is another story) so it wasn't a big deal, but I was just wondering if the Hyundai dealer might have gotten it done quicker.
 
#13 ·
QUOTE (canderson @ Feb 4 2011, 12:22 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=398329
IF that's all the codes that were present, I'm surprised. A serious mismatch between the signals from the two fuel sensors should have set off a code of its own.
Thanks - I will take the car in and have them check it all again. A similar scenario happened again where the engine light just went on last week - and as soon as it went on, the next day it went off. Unlike before which was a "few days" on.

I have written up the gas case an will get them to check again. Hopefully this engine light issue will point to the second case.
 
#14 ·
When i picked up my 07 SF, with in a month the check engine light was on and wasn't registering gas right. Took it to Hyundai and they replaced 1 of the fuel sending units. Got it back and wouldn't register a full tank of gas so i took it back in and they replaced the other sending unit. When the first unit was faulty, the engine light came on. The second unit didn't send any error codes or make the light come on, just wouldn't show what gas was in the tank....

Might be something to check in to. Just my $0.02 worth.

Hope it all works out for you.
 
#15 ·
QUOTE (QuickShotSims @ Feb 17 2011, 01:15 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=403352
When i picked up my 07 SF, with in a month the check engine light was on and wasn't registering gas right. Took it to Hyundai and they replaced 1 of the fuel sending units. Got it back and wouldn't register a full tank of gas so i took it back in and they replaced the other sending unit. When the first unit was faulty, the engine light came on. The second unit didn't send any error codes or make the light come on, just wouldn't show what gas was in the tank....

Might be something to check in to. Just my $0.02 worth.

Hope it all works out for you.
Chuckle chuckle - well wouldn't you know ...

So I take the car in as the gauge was fluctuating as stated. The following was changed:

Cause: Performed inspection, found sending unit defective
Correction: Retrieve malfunction codes and estimate repair; replace sending unit assembly

1 31110-0W000 Complete-F
1 31230-0W000 Plate & SE
2 31152-0W000 Ring Lock
... I am thinking the only thing that was big was the first line - what was that?

They didn't report the engine codes on the invoice - I will be more in tuned with that next time and ensure they do have them added to the invoice.

Got the car back - 1/2 tank full. Smell of gas in cabin. That night I filled the tank up and the gauge registered only 3/4 full. Got to the car the next day and strong smell of gas in the cabin. Spoke with the dealer - he stated because they opened it up and had to take the pump out (/and or work) some gas could have spilled on the carpet. We discussed leaving the windows open at night (the car is always in the garage at night).

So far I have driven about 280km (in winter it varies - roughly say 350-375km per tank. In the summer about 400km). The tank registers 1/2 full. Before driving home from work today, it was slightly below 1/2 and when I arrived (~30km later) the needle was slightly more than 1/2.

It is clear there is a problem still - something wasn't done properly or something not changed that should have. The gauge is not reading properly - by now it should be between 1/4 and 1/2 and clearly it is not.

The smell of gas appears to be less now - I went tonight and did not smell anything immediately on the carpet at the back seats (went Feb 23rd - now Mar 1). I have been leaving the windows open a crack at night in the garage. Will not do so tonight and will see what happens.

Part of me wants to take it in immediately -but we are leaving on a trip (about a 9hr one way to Hartford - for 5 days). I can use the B odometer to keep track of the gas and not rely on the gas light - that isn't an issue. A larger concern is - if in fact there was gas spilled on the carpet, I don't want to take the car in and have something like that again and spend a week smelling that while on vacation and driving so long in the car. So part of me wants to just wait until I return on the trip.

I am sure the best I could do is get the car in for early next week - but we leave on Thursday. Other than the gauge is not registering properly, the car appears to behave properly. If it exhibited any issues otherwise, I would not hesitate to take it in.

If after tonight I smell a lot of gas in the cabin I will assume something wasn't done right - for that alone, and get the car in.

Any thoughts as to what this problem could be? Thoughts on my idea on deferring to take it back in (assuming the smell is going away)?

Thanks
belly
 
#16 ·
Me thinks the dealer is going to get to eat the fuel pump module and right sender assembly..... senders is available as seperate part... they should have replace both the left and right senders.. appears manual is wrong, and code can be set by opposite sender.. been there/done that.

Yea, gas smell inside cabin... thats how you get the units, service holes in the carpet/floor... fella might have been a bit sloppy with the pump module.

The CCR wont go good when DPSM goes to review the claim.. no GDS documention noted or codes documented.

In the pics, the flap is is the left access (fuel pump module),, 2nd pic is of the left & right senders...
 

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#17 ·
QUOTE (sbr711 @ Mar 1 2011, 11:06 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=409087
Yea, gas smell inside cabin... thats how you get the units, service holes in the carpet/floor... fella might have been a bit sloppy with the pump module.

In the pics, the flap is is the left access (fuel pump module),, 2nd pic is of the left & right senders...
Thanks for the pics.

Now as far fixing - do you see any issues with deferring this fix until after my trip? I'd get it looked at probably the week of the 21st. I would use the ODOMETER B as my indicator and under the circumstances wouldn't stretch that out too far. I think a "worst case" might be the engine light coming on again, but otherwise doubt much more. As you stated - and I as I mentioned, the gas smell is a big problem for me - esp being cooped up in the car for 9hrs there --- then driving around -- (another trip to Boston ~4hr roundtrip) then 9hrs back to Toronto.

A PITA but not the end of the world. -- Would you concur?

New question - knowing there are issues like this - am I to assume they are replacing these units with the same units - would I be expecting this again in another 60-80,000km? Must not be that "uncommon". Yet Hyundai doesn't do anything to improve the sender units? PITA indeed.

Thanks
belly
 
#18 ·
QUOTE (bellyman @ Mar 2 2011, 01:06 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=409121
Thanks for the pics.
There is a flap under the right seat also for the lone right hand sender..

Now as far fixing - do you see any issues with deferring this fix until after my trip?
No, just buy fuel every so often and you wont have to worryabout running empty based on your know past fuel mileage figures... I run 300 - 320 per load of fuel with my own ride..

I'd get it looked at probably the week of the 21st.
I took it by the past above you hade repair made..

I would use the ODOMETER B as my indicator and under the circumstances wouldn't stretch that out too far.
That'll work, fill up every so many mile based on past mileage use numbers if that is something you do to keep track of fuel use

I think a "worst case" might be the engine light coming on again, but otherwise doubt much more.
Running empty and sit by side of road waiting for gas can full of fuel to get you to gas station...

As you stated - and I as I mentioned, the gas smell is a big problem for me - esp being cooped up in the car for 9hrs there --- then driving around -- (another trip to Boston ~4hr roundtrip) then 9hrs back to Toronto.
Turn the HVAC on and run outside air, the used air leave the cabin via the vents in back..

A PITA but not the end of the world. -- Would you concur?
Correct... just fuel level sender logic...

New question - knowing there are issues like this - am I to assume they are replacing these units with the same units - would I be expecting this again in another 60-80,000km? Must not be that "uncommon". Yet Hyundai doesn't do anything to improve the sender units? PITA indeed.
I do not know if the senders is same part, they look identical in most respect, except that the plastic clip that holds the steel arm to the sensor is changed from white (old part) to black (new part).... dont know if this actually has any value...

Thanks
belly



Part numbers I have on the senders is 94430-0W000 and 94460-0W000
 
#19 ·
QUOTE (bellyman @ Mar 1 2011, 06:55 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=408994
Chuckle chuckle - well wouldn't you know ...

So I take the car in as the gauge was fluctuating as stated. The following was changed:

Cause: Performed inspection, found sending unit defective
Correction: Retrieve malfunction codes and estimate repair; replace sending unit assembly

1 31110-0W000 Complete-F
1 31230-0W000 Plate & SE
2 31152-0W000 Ring Lock
... I am thinking the only thing that was big was the first line - what was that?

They didn't report the engine codes on the invoice - I will be more in tuned with that next time and ensure they do have them added to the invoice.

Got the car back - 1/2 tank full. Smell of gas in cabin. That night I filled the tank up and the gauge registered only 3/4 full. Got to the car the next day and strong smell of gas in the cabin. Spoke with the dealer - he stated because they opened it up and had to take the pump out (/and or work) some gas could have spilled on the carpet. We discussed leaving the windows open at night (the car is always in the garage at night).

So far I have driven about 280km (in winter it varies - roughly say 350-375km per tank. In the summer about 400km). The tank registers 1/2 full. Before driving home from work today, it was slightly below 1/2 and when I arrived (~30km later) the needle was slightly more than 1/2.

It is clear there is a problem still - something wasn't done properly or something not changed that should have. The gauge is not reading properly - by now it should be between 1/4 and 1/2 and clearly it is not.

The smell of gas appears to be less now - I went tonight and did not smell anything immediately on the carpet at the back seats (went Feb 23rd - now Mar 1). I have been leaving the windows open a crack at night in the garage. Will not do so tonight and will see what happens.

Part of me wants to take it in immediately -but we are leaving on a trip (about a 9hr one way to Hartford - for 5 days). I can use the B odometer to keep track of the gas and not rely on the gas light - that isn't an issue. A larger concern is - if in fact there was gas spilled on the carpet, I don't want to take the car in and have something like that again and spend a week smelling that while on vacation and driving so long in the car. So part of me wants to just wait until I return on the trip.

I am sure the best I could do is get the car in for early next week - but we leave on Thursday. Other than the gauge is not registering properly, the car appears to behave properly. If it exhibited any issues otherwise, I would not hesitate to take it in.

If after tonight I smell a lot of gas in the cabin I will assume something wasn't done right - for that alone, and get the car in.

Any thoughts as to what this problem could be? Thoughts on my idea on deferring to take it back in (assuming the smell is going away)?

Thanks
belly

Take it back and tell them it still isn't working. they will look at it probably switch the other sending unit like they did for me as well. I never got the smell in the cabin, but they might have spilled on carpet. But i bet you the other sending unit/level is having problems now and they will need to fix it. So take it back in and tell them it still isn't working.
 
#20 ·
Thanks QuickShot and belated thanks to sbr711.

The gas smell dissipated to the point that I believe there was an accident v. something left open (a feeling I had). When I take it in, I will be raising **** as well that I don't want that smell again (accidents do happen but ... maybe if it were a Lexus with less cupholders, it might have been fixed better).

Due to the smell problem going away, and that sbr711 confirmed my overall suspicions I decided to yield to doing nothing until after my trip. I have added post it notes in the car in case I don't fill the tank (~20L = 120-150km) as a reminder.

Of the two evils - having a smell during 22hrs of driving over 6 days or not having a correct gauge reading, I chose the latter. I am very comfortable with following the B mileage. If I have room, I may take a small gas tank just in case.

At any rate - once I take it in, I will report my findings.

Cheers!
belly
 
#21 ·
Three weeks have transpired and I wanted to let you know all know what is happening with my tank - also looking for some help.

Just ahead of our trip I filled the tank on the evening of Monday March 7th only to have my wife complain on the 8th of the smell of gas again in the car. That implied something was still not closed properly. I took the car in on the 9th and picked it up that evening.

The dealer had opened it up again and found the problem with the gauge (showing between 1/2 and 3/4 range) was related to the float. Whether that was the original problem or not is unknown. During the trip and up to now, it appears to be behaving properly. I have kept track of mileage v. tank fillings and feel that I am back again to where I was before the gauge acted funny.

But that is not the end yet. During our trip we again found that after filling the tank and leaving the car "overnight" upon entering the vehicle in the morning there was a strong smell of gas. It wasn't enough though to bother us during our drive - occasional opening the windows and rests I assume were enough to get rid of any remnant gas smell. Said another way - no one got sick.

Another anomaly - but a bit more difficult to "set up" is that when the front windows alone are open - each side just a bit, there appears to be a vacuum created and we smell the gas in the front of the cabin. Today I can get that close - but also wonder if the temperature outside (somewhat warmer - in the 40-50s v. 20s) had any factor.

So last week, I took the car in again - this time no gauge problem but still the smell of gas. Unfortunately, due to the scenarios, they were unable to find the smell. I suggested they drive with the windows open but figure the "drove with them open" 'drove with them closed" response from them implied I did not convey the "set up" properly. (ie driving closed or completely open is utterly useless)

My only hope, today, is - running the tank close to empty, filling it totally in the AM, dropping it off at the dealer, and then having them wait about 4 hours before checking the cabin.

Question - they stated there are two access doors to the tank (I thought there was just one). They are telling me that they are a "sealed" system and if they are open even a little bit then a engine light will go off (sensor). I suspect that is the only place where the gas is coming from - that maybe a gasket or door was mangled enough to prevent a complete and perfect seal. The problem occurred after the first time I took the car in - and still exists today. They stated there is no leak found and feel the access door cannot be the cause. I know nothing about how secure that door is - how solid it is and if there is a way for the gas to come from there or not. And if not - where would it come from?

Each time I get the car the excuse could be "door open most of the day - gas getting into the cabin" or "spill on the ground" --- but the issue is - once new gas is added, the smell comes back. I firmly believe the access door somehow has been damaged and/or a gasket issue.

Does anyone (sbr711??) have any ideas?

Thanks
belly
 
#22 ·
QUOTE (sbr711 @ Mar 1 2011, 11:06 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=409087
Me thinks the dealer is going to get to eat the fuel pump module and right sender assembly..... senders is available as seperate part... they should have replace both the left and right senders.. appears manual is wrong, and code can be set by opposite sender.. been there/done that.

Yea, gas smell inside cabin... thats how you get the units, service holes in the carpet/floor... fella might have been a bit sloppy with the pump module.

The CCR wont go good when DPSM goes to review the claim.. no GDS documention noted or codes documented.

In the pics, the flap is is the left access (fuel pump module),, 2nd pic is of the left & right senders...
Is replacing the fuel level sensors a reasonable job at home for a guy who is mechanically inclined, has plenty of garage space and time during vacation to do it? How expensive is the process for the dealer to do it on a vehicle out of warranty? How expensive are the fuel level sensors themselves? Thanks for replying
 
#23 ·
After many CEL with code P0463/P0464/P2068,
and fuel empty light with actual gas in tank.
and some good information from this thread.

I changed fuel senders. of 2007 SF 46,000 miles odo.


Parts:
94430-0W000 Fuel Level sender - Main(LH side) Canada dealer $110+Tax US dealer $80?
94460-0W000 Fuel Level sender - Sub (RH side) Canada dealer $60+Tax US dealer $80?
I tried to buy from Korea, but they don't have any stock in whole Korea.

Tools:
- hammer & long flat screw driver (to hit open the ring lock, cuz we don't have special wrench)
- 14mm socket wrench & impact driver (for seats' bolts)
- some small drivers

Good things
- good brain to figure out how to do at the tight space.
- 2~4 hours depend on your skill and tool
- be careful not to break any small plastic parts
- fuel less than 1/4 (about 1/8 tank is best)
- prepare some spill from main thick hose, even if you stalled engine.

I don't recommend this job to regular DIY.
It's really a PITA.

Sub sender is much easier than main sender.
Main sender has fuel pump together. It's VERY tight space with the wires, hoses and pump. For the main sender, you need to pull out main sender's float arm from the sender circuit body in order to install or uninstall.

Old main sender's pins are all worn out. broken to half.
old sub sender's some 2 pins are broken. others became very thiner. anytime to be broken

New sub sender is improved. It has much 5 times thicker (2 split) metal pin with black holder.
But, new main sender looks the same as old, very thin (5 split) metal pin with white holder. Strangely the sub sender was made on mid 2009(0924 marking), and main sender made on late 2010(1052).

To forum member, "sbr711",
can you confirm new sender has black arm holder in main sender too?

I found main sender is for sensing 1/2 tank ~ Empty.
sub sender is for Full ~ 1/2 tank.

You need to replace BOTH senders sooner or later if you have 2007 or 2008 SF.
I might have to replace my main sender 4~5 years later because it looks not improved. :mad:
 

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#35 ·
just curious... i see you have a JPG of the units and 1 of the units is the complete unit pulled out of tank so i can see the way the sending arm is mounted.
what im wondering is , is the sending unit on fuel pump mounted in same direction? angled edges of component facing up?
 
#25 · (Edited)
I believe every single SF with the old sender parts will have the problem within 4 ~ 8 years.

- Replace the sub sender first, to learn skill for the harder main sender.
- To take the steel cover off, while lifting the cover, cut the sticky silicone glue between the cover gap with an utility knife.
- For main sender's cover off, I had to cut a plastic tie wrap holding wires under the carpet. You'll understand what I mean.
- Expect a little tricky, how to undo hose clamps.
- Replace both senders if you don't want to do another one very soon.
- Impact driver helped me to remove the chairs' bolts and nuts.

Good luck~
 

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