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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm having issues with our Santa Fe. Power door locks not locking/unlocking using the key fob, I think the passenger front door is the culprit as it won't unlock when it's warm. How can I check the actuators? Is there a maintenance schedule for them? :mad:

Front power windows operate slow. Super slow going up and I'm pretty sure it's NOT because of gravity....:rolleyes:

I have located ground points and made sure they were clean, as I have seen where faulty/dirty/loose grounds cause HUGE issues that are hard to trace.

Fan blower switch problems, but I found some info on that so I can get that fixed.

Also, the 2001 Santa Fe AC systems, where can I find info on common failures of the system, leaks, bad components, etc?

Thanks guys!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
got the fan blower switch fixed.
Currently, the car is doing weird things....the idle will vary...it will idle around 500-600 rpm, then jump to 1100-1200, up to 1300 and run there for a few seconds, then drop back down to 700, the vary up and down a couple hundred rpms then back down to 500-600. Seems a bit rough when it comes back to 500. A couple times the CEL came on and I stopped at an automotive place, the guy read the codes for me.....P1167 and P0118.
I think the P0118 is something to do with the temp sensor failure and when this rpm situation is happening the temp guage in the dash cluster remains constant, just below 1/2 mark on the guage.
Have tried researching and all I can find is the sensor is failing and to replace it. Could that be causing problems with the idle?
 

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From the Hyundai Service Web site. (https://www.hyundaitechinfo.com/)


>SANTAFE(SM) > 2001 > Engine > Engine Control > P1167 O2 Sensor System - Lambda Controller at the Limit (Bank 2) > Inspection/Repair > System Inspection

Check Intake/Exhaust System for Restriction or Leakage1.Visually/physically inspect the air leakage in intake/exhaust system as following items.
A.Vacuum hoses for splits, kinks and improper connections.
B.Throttle body gasket.
C.Gasket between intake manifold and cylinder head.
D.Seals between intake manifold and fuel injectors.
E.Exhaust system between HO2S and Three way catalyst for air leakage.
2.Visually/physically inspect the restriction in intake/exhaust system as following items.
A.Air cleaner filter element for excessive dirt or for any foreign objects.
B.Throttle body inlet for damage or for any foreign objects.
C.Throttle bore, throttle plate and the IAC passages for chocking and for any foreign objects.
D.Restricted exhaust system.
3.Was a problem found in any of the above areas?
YES
▶ Replace or repair as necessary and go to "Verification of Vehicle Repair" procedure.
NO
▶ Go to " Check the engine oil contamination " procedure.
Check the Engine Oil Contamination1.Check the engine oil level. The oil level should be between the min. and max. marking. Fill to the correct oil level.
2.Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature.
3.Connect Scantool and note the "SHORT TERM FUEL-B2" parameter on the Scantool data list.
4.Disconnect and plug the positive crankcase ventilation.
5.Monitor the "SHORT TERM FUEL-B2" parameter on the Scantool data list once again.
Specification : The value should remain more or less unchanged.
6.Is the displayed value within the specified value?
YES
▶ Go to "Sensor Contamination Inspection" procedure.
NO
▶ The engine oil is diluted with fuel. Chang the oil and oil filter and go to "Verification of Vehicle Repair" procedure.
Sensor Contamination Inspection1.Visually/physically inspect following items:
A.Remove and inspect the HO2S(B1S1) for any silicon contamination. This contamination will be indicated by a white powdery coating and this will result in a but false voltage signal.
B.Check MAFS for contamination, deterioration, or damage.
C.If contamination is evident on the HO2S or MAFS, replace contaminated sensor and go to next step.
Check for Leakage in EVAP System1.Check the EVAP. EM system for possible over.
(1)Remove the manifold side vacuum hose from the EVAP canister purge valve.
(2)Using a hand vacuum pump apply specified vacuum(Approx. 15 in, Hg) to the manifold side of the valve.
(3)Does the valve hold vacuum?
YES
▶ Go to "Fuel System Inspection" procedure
NO
▶ Repair air leakage and go to "Verification of Vehicle Repair" procedure.
Fuel System Inspection1.Check the fuel for excessive water, alcohol, or other contaminants. Replace contaminated fuel as necessary.
2.Disconnect the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator and inspect the hose for the presence of fuel. If any fuel is present in the vacuum hose, replace the fuel pressure regulator. Go to next step.
3.Install a fuel pressure gauge.
4.Start engine and let it idle. With the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator disconnected, inspect fuel pressure.
Specification : 320~340kPa(3.26~3.47 kg/cm², 46~49 psi)
5.Is fuel pressure within the specification?
YES
▶ Go to "Fuel Injector Inspection" procedure as below.
NO
▶ Repair as necessary refer to inspection note as below and go to "Verification of Vehicle Repair" procedure.(Inspection Note)
Fuel Injector Inspection1.Check the fuel injectors for clogging or any restrictions.
Test Condition : Ignition "OFF".
Specification : No clogging and restriction.
2.Is the fuel injector OK?
YES
▶ Visually/physically inspect the engine mechanical problem. Repair as necessary and go to "Verification of Vehicle Repair" procedure.
NO
▶ Check injector for contamination, deterioration, or damage. Substitute with a known-good injector and check for proper operation. If the problem is corrected, replace injector and then go to "Verification of Vehicle Repair" procedure.


>SANTAFE(SM) > 2001 > Engine > Engine Control > P0118 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input > Inspection/Repair > Component Inspection >

1.Ignition "OFF"
2.Measure resistance between terminals 1 and 3 of the ECT sensor connector (Component side)
Specification :

Temperature
Resistance(kΩ)
20°C(68°F)
Approx. 2.31 ~ 2.59
40°C(104°F)
Approx. 1.00 ~ 1.30
80°C(176°F)
Approx. 0.31 ~ 0.33


3.Is resistance within the specification?
YES
▶ Check for poor connection between ECM and component: backed out terminal, improper mating, broken locks or poor terminal to wire connection. Repair as necessary and go to "Verification of Vehicle Repair" procedure.
NO
▶ Check ECTS for contamination, deterioration, or damage. Substitute with a known-good ECTS and check for proper operation. If the problem is corrected, replace ECTS and then go to "Verification of Vehicle Repair" procedure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
changed ECT sensor. Have to pick one of two evils....pull radiator hose and make a mess or pull engine cover and ignition coil pack for access, which is still limited...I pulled the coils. Car runs just fine now....since the temps in FL are starting to increase for summer, the rough/high idle problem has been occurring more often, it was pretty dormant during the cooler months. However, now the temp guage is reading erratically....normally, start the car and as it warms up the temp slowly and gradually comes up to the 1/2 mark on the guage. Now, with the new sensor, the second the car starts, the guage shoots right up to just over half, then gradually climbs to just above the 3/4 mark and occasionally gets to the bottom of the red at the top of the guage (overtemp). The fans don't even kick on at this point.....so fix one issue and it leads to another...wonderful. Wrong resistance range on the sensor? Wrong sensor? I had to slightly shave the clip down on the sensor for the plug to lock on so I'm thinking I have the wrong sensor....but if anything, the high/rough idle problem isn't happening now....I KNOW the car isn't really running that hot....y'all agree? wrong sensor?
 

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You read the specs on the sensor, so measure it's resistance with an ohm meter.
Jumping gauge like that can only because of bad connections to the sensor and /or indeed a wrong sensor resistance range.
Eventually, I would put back the old sensor, because I think it has no fault. The gauge normally sits at some 1/2 mark at normal engine temperature.
I do would check the MAF sensor, within the air intake line. It must compensate your engine performance for low or high air temperature, air pressure.
Also you could check electrical connections at the accelerator valve.

Good luck,
Paul
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I tested the old sensor before getting the new one....I hooked up an ohm meter and read the resistance, it was off a little bit. Then I put it in a pot of water and turned up the heat, monitoring the water temp and resistance of the sensor....right about the 170*F range, where the resistance drops to 310-330 ohms, the sensor would indicate infinite ohms, as in the circuit was open. I figured that was my problem....so I got the new sensor and installed it...without checking it first....all my years doing stuff and more than once I've had a bad "brand new" part, one would think to check these shits.....oh well. I'm probably going to get an OEM sensor in a couple weeks when I get my next paycheck...it's only a couple bucks more than the cheap one at AutoZone.
The other resistance ranges were pretty close at the specified temps on the old sensor, but the fact that I was getting the PO118 code when the car was acting up is what led me to changing it.
I will look into cleaning the MAF sensor too, maybe even change it out if it's not too expensive.
STILL having the power door lock and slow window ops issues though....and the door lock thing is pissing me off to no end, it's getting old.....and sometimes I have to push the lock/unlock button on the key fob several times to get it to work....low battery on the fob, I'll accep that, but what is the cars problem with the locks/windows???:mad:
 

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Slow windows and door locks probably are caused by a low voltage. But you did not mention any battery indicator light. So I suggest you measure voltage at the window motor. Could it be a bad fuse or cabling or switches gone bad?
The motor simply runs on 12 volts, where polarity for the motor is switched over to get the other direction. So you can run some jumper wires from a 12v battery to the motor to check it's normal function.
You do need to open up the inner door lining, but only a few screws and clips.
There are no end switches so when the window is at it's end do halt the switch because then the motor is held at a stop and will use a lot of current.
Door locks could have also mechanical problems of sticky mechanics or needing some grease.
Good luck,
Paul
 
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