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Discussion Starter #1
I have been hearing a thumping sound when driving over slight road bumps. I checked all of my suspension components and have discovered that the stabilizer bar bushings are worn out. I have located a TSB that Hyundai has made an improved design for the stabilizer bar brackets and bushings on the 2001 and 2002 model years. I wish to do this in my driveway and I just wanted to know if anyone has attempted to do this on their own and if anyone can offer any suggestions such as alternatives to a frame supporter. This is well within my scope to do myself. I just need to know if there will be any snags I need to keep an eye out for. I don't believe this is any longer covered under warranty either since the truck has 96k on it.
 

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QUOTE (pemdas1972 @ Aug 9 2010, 01:23 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=348097
I have been hearing a thumping sound when driving over slight road bumps. I checked all of my suspension components and have discovered that the stabilizer bar bushings are worn out. I have located a TSB that Hyundai has made an improved design for the stabilizer bar brackets and bushings on the 2001 and 2002 model years. I wish to do this in my driveway and I just wanted to know if anyone has attempted to do this on their own and if anyone can offer any suggestions such as alternatives to a frame supporter. This is well within my scope to do myself. I just need to know if there will be any snags I need to keep an eye out for. I don't believe this is any longer covered under warranty either since the truck has 96k on it.

If you have not had the frame inspect for rust recall, hope the frame gets replaced, and you can have them install the new bush & brackets when they assemble the new frame to go back up into place,,, be sure to have the parts before hand, as most quit stocing them a long time ago....

To do it in the driveway....Hmmmmmmmmmm..... I can tell you 4WD in the way makes for real fun time, as you can barely get wrench on the bolts to turn them, and you will be a good while removing each bolt, and you'll need to lower the rear of the frame to get what you can get. Wont be much as the frame will rest on the pinion gear nose of the transfer..
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I had the frame rust recall done about 6 months ago. All they did was rustproof it and they told me they had to drill holes in some areas to help with drainage. I wish I knew where specifically those holes were drilled so I can check under the car myself to make sure the job was done properly. If anyone knows anything and can provide pictures that would be great. I called hyundai consumer affairs to see if they can provide any technical documentation on this recall and they told me to talk to the dealer since they don't have access to technical documentation and the hmaservice site has no info that I can find on it.
As far as the stabilizer bar bushings are concerned they told me it will be $90 in labor and about $12 in parts so I am going to schedule an appointment to have them do it. At that price it's worth it.
 

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QUOTE (pemdas1972 @ Aug 10 2010, 12:51 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=348339
I had the frame rust recall done about 6 months ago. All they did was rustproof it and they told me they had to drill holes in some areas to help with drainage. I wish I knew where specifically those holes were drilled so I can check under the car myself to make sure the job was done properly.
1 hole at each frame rail at back, there will be a rubber plug in the hole covered with black goo


If anyone knows anything and can provide pictures that would be great. I called hyundai consumer affairs to see if they can provide any technical documentation on this recall and they told me to talk to the dealer since they don't have access to technical documentation and the hmaservice site has no info that I can find on it.
It is not on the HMA Service site in the free public section, as it is priviledged info, unless somebody leaks it out..They can access it, they Hyundai people

As far as the stabilizer bar bushings are concerned they told me it will be $90 in labor and about $12 in parts so I am going to schedule an appointment to have them do it.
I can hear the tech now when he finds out that he has to install them bushings for next to nothing in his pocket, especially on a 4WD.. Pay it and run, they giving it to you. Remember you need 2 bushing, and 2 bracket...

At that price it's worth it.


I am putting auto trans in a 2.7L 4WD Santa Fe, so I was able to snap a couple pics of the bushings out in the open..
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well, I finally took the car in to have the bushings replaced. They told me that the sway bar links needed to be replaced as well. Since they didn't have all the parts they scheduled me to bring the vehicle in the next morning to perform the service. I also requested the old parts back. After the repair was done I drove home and I decided to look under the car to make sure everything was ok. I found that the front subrame bolts were not even tightened down. :angry: It was hanging down about an inch and resting on one of the subrame bolts that was loosely threaded onto the frame. The other subframe bold was a few turns from falling off the vehicle. I also inspected the old sway bar links and they were perfectly fine so more wasted money on a service that didn't need to be performed. I have lost confidence in this dealer to perform reliable quality work and not to mention not being trustworthy. I drove the car back and showed the service manager and asked him why would the swaybar links be replaced if they were good. His reply, "It is your opinion that they were in good condition." WOW! I didn't know that a condition of a part was an opinion. I thought a good tech can tell the diference. When the tech was confronted he blatently lied by telling me he didn't loosen those bolts in order to replace the bushings. Of course this would anger anyone that has knowledge that this would not be true. I flat out told him that he was lying and I was not quiet about it either. I wanted to make sure everyone in the service area can hear how they were treating their customers. It was also clear the service manager didn't have a very good technical knowledge which he maybe should go back to school or find another line of work. The car was immediately put on the lift and had it back to me within 15 minutes. The tech also apologized to me for not being honest. I accepted the apology and simply told him that if he was just honest to begin with it wouldn't have escalated.

The bill was a completely separate fiasco. The dealer had quoted me $165 plus parts to do the job. When I showed up and they inspected the vehicle they were trying to charge me 2.5 hours ($275) of labor. The TSB clearly states 1.2 M/H to do the job. I put my foot down and told them $165 was the quote and that is all they were getting in labor per the TSB. Parts ran me $85 after discount. When the bill was calculated it was totaled up to almost $293 after tax. I checked the bill and they had added misc charges. I asked what that was and they stated it was parts disposal. I told them that they have no parts to dispose of since they gave them to me. It took him two trips to the service manager to make corrections twice to get the bill to total out what it was supposed to at under $270. My advise to everyone, have your calculators handy otherwise they will try to get over on you!!!

I am sure there are a ton of horror stories with dealers but my general feeling is all dealers will do what they feel on a per customer basis dishonest things if they feel that they can get away with it. In this case they got a pile of egg on their faces.

I am contemplating weather to report this to Hyundai or the BBB. Any suggestions/advice?
 

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QUOTE (DSHornet @ Sep 24 2010, 03:02 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=358497
Yes, both. Go for it!

Likely be spinning your wheels... Franchises is free to operate their own way, so long as they follow Hyundai rules when it come warranty...

BBB wont do anything.
 

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QUOTE (pemdas1972 @ Sep 24 2010, 12:26 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=358472
After the repair was done I drove home and I decided to look under the car to make sure everything was ok. I found that the front subrame bolts were not even tightened down.
OOOOp's, I hate it when that happens

It (large washer) was hanging down about an inch and resting on one of the subrame bolts that was loosely threaded onto the frame.

The other subframe bolt was a few turns from falling off the vehicle. I also inspected the old sway bar links and they were perfectly fine so more wasted money on a service that didn't need to be performed.

I have lost confidence in this dealer to perform reliable quality work and not to mention not being trustworthy. I drove the car back and showed the service manager and asked him why would the swaybar links be replaced if they were good. His reply, "It is your opinion that they were in good condition." WOW! I didn't know that a condition of a part was an opinion.

I thought a good tech can tell the diference. When the tech was confronted he blatently lied by telling me he didn't loosen those bolts in order to replace the bushings. Of course this would anger anyone that has knowledge that this would not be true. I flat out told him that he was lying and I was not quiet about it either. I wanted to make sure everyone in the service area can hear how they were treating their customers. It was also clear the service manager didn't have a very good technical knowledge which he maybe should go back to school or find another line of work. The car was immediately put on the lift and had it back to me within 15 minutes. The tech also apologized to me for not being honest. I accepted the apology and simply told him that if he was just honest to begin with it wouldn't have escalated.

The bill was a completely separate fiasco. The dealer had quoted me $165 plus parts to do the job. When I showed up and they inspected the vehicle they were trying to charge me 2.5 hours ($275) of labor. The TSB clearly states 1.2 M/H to do the job.
TSB reflects the labor time Hyundai will pay the dealer under warranty for the repair... I can tell you 1.2hr is a wee bit more than half the time it takes to do bushings on a 4WD... 2WD is slight easier, as the frame will came down a weee bit more at back, but with age, the bolts is a royal pain to get out 30 degree at a time, and the bolts is almost an inch long with rust on threads.. in reality, as it is a customer pay repair, they is free to charge based on common labor guides (I think my price guide on Reynolds is 3.4hr) along with what market will bear.. You got the 1.2 hr because you happened to have a copy of Hyundai warranty document and stood by it.




I checked the bill and they had added misc charges. I asked what that was and they stated it was parts disposal.
Places I worked in past went to scrap bin, and sold. Anymore, it is every man for himself..

I currently run off with the aluminum (radiator/condenser/evaporator, misc parts), as aluminum pays pretty good when loaded down.. I grab the catalytic converters (sold 9 recently for $420, only to drive up to hospital and drop $400 toward a bill I have with them), they is good money,,, fella in shop piles up all the scrap steel (frames, arms and other misc) and scraps it himself..



I told them that they have no parts to dispose of since they gave them to me.
You cut into their scrap profits... Pizza, pop, grilling goodies for lunch

It took him two trips to the service manager to make corrections twice to get the bill to total out what it was supposed to at under $270. My advise to everyone, have your calculators handy otherwise they will try to get over on you!!!
My wife was cashier at a TOYOTA dealer, she would adjust the final charges as the customer complained.

I am sure there are a ton of horror stories with dealers but my general feeling is all dealers will do what they feel on a per customer basis dishonest things if they feel that they can get away with it. In this case they got a pile of egg on their faces.

I am contemplating weather to report this to Hyundai or the BBB. Any suggestions/advice?
Wont really do any good, as each store is an independent operation.. you can try..
 

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Don't bother complaining to the BBB they are nothing but a sham. I hope everyone saw the piece that ABC did on the BBB a few weeks ago. If a business pays the BBB $500 they can easily get an 'A' rating. If they don't pony up for the extortion they won't be graded higher than a 'C' no matter how good they are. My recommendation is to file a complaint with the consumer protection division of you State's Attorney General's office. the State's website may also have accessible information on consumer complaints against businesses...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
A thumping noise started occuring on the front left side every time I would go over a bump. I investigated and discovered the noise was coming from the left stabilizer link that the dealer had replaced. Since the part and labor is warrantied by the dealer that did the work for 1 year or 12,000 miles I took it back in to them. Turns out one of the bolts holding the link in place came loose. The same mechanic that originally did the work had to do it again. This guy really needs the help of a torque wrench. During the test drive another mechanic took the vehicle out to verify the work. Was not crazy about going back there but I checked the truck out after and everything checked out ok.

As far as pursuing action against the dealer I decided that losing my business and from others that I know is a strong enough statement. In this case they did the right thing to correct the issue.
 

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I've done the stabilizer bars' bushings on my 2001 front-wheel drive Sante Fe, and a couple of times on my 1996 Accent GT, which now has 237,410 miles and counting, and the only major work has been a clutch cable at 184,000; new struts all around at 145,000 and 220,00; a clutch at 201,000; four sets of tires; and brakes pads and shoes. It has only been OFF the road 11 days since January of 1996.
Back to the bushings, which are not hard on either car, so get your car on jack stands and have jack ready to lift bars for maneuverability while putting parts on. Remove tires and proceed with the obvious. Remove old, put on new. Really basic stuff, but make sure that the rubber grommets and hard plastic sections are mated properly. The Rubber grommets have "insert" sleeves that make it ALMOST idiot proof, and Hyundai had instructions in last set that I bought. MOST important, have a good hack saw or cutting tool available, since the old nuts and bolts on these puppies are usually rusted into an eternal bond.
 
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