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Discussion Starter #1
Hi!

So I have a 2007 Getz and the frond end seems very soft. When going over bumps (like speed bumps) the frond end feels like it's bottoming out. It's present almost always when going over humps where the car goes up then down. No other sounds but the "thump" and the car feeling like it's suddenly stopping it's motion.
I took it to the dealership, they said everything seems ok. No leaking shocks or busted springs, nor is the stance wrong when on the ground. And rubber around every bushing is fine. Couldn't replicate it in their small test yard and since they said that they don't usually see problems with getz's shock parts, they don't suggest replacing anything, so I said fine. Then took it to a independent shock tester, same thing. shocks at around 70% of their capability.
But I'm pretty sure it is bottoming out on stuff.
What could be the problem? Should I replace the springs? I mean, when driving around the car is stable, but that feeling on humps just isn't right.
Could driving around with soft springs affect anything else? like hurt wheel bearings or such? Or should I just live with it and it's overthinking.

Any input is much appreciated :)
 

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if you feel the coil spring slowly rebounds 3-4 times after you hit a bump, that means the strut is not working and need to be replaced
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Struts feel ok. No repetitive bounce, but humps bottom the car out. Nor does the car feel jittery on the highway when cars pass. But speed bumps bottom the front out.
 

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You do know your supposed to slow down going over speed bumps....right? :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
:D I do. Going over fast seems better, although I don't. Going over slow seems worse. it gives the car time to up and then down, then "thump". And I do mean slow, a couple of mph is enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Do you know just how far the suspension has to travel to bottom out? A long way. What is your tyre pressure?
Tire pressure is at 2.3 bar as recommended by the sticker. As for the travel, I do, yes. I've changed a couple of sturts in my life. However when replacement was required and the struts hit bump stops constantly, it was also accompanied with the car visibly having worn springs and swaying (so whole strut tower replacement) or leaking shocks or a busted spring. That's why i'm seeking advice - none are present. The car takes small/average potholes well, doesn't sway. Just a smooth up-down equals blam - bump stops.

Personally I thought they needed to be changed, however the 70% test and dealer saying they would not have me confused. I don't want to change them unnecessarily . So here I am seeking knowledge :)
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
That's why i'm seeking advice - none are present.
Good luck with that attitude.
Honestly don't know what you mean by that. What's wrong with my attitude?

Just to clarify, I meant I can't find any other symptoms other than struts bottoming out on humps.

However I figured out some sort of a game plan. Since the garage doesn't recommend replacement I'd thought maybe see if the shocks are OEM or aftermarket. Maybe they have been replaced with softer springs than original.
And another idea is to put those rubber things (don't know what they're called) between the coils of the spring to stiffen them up. If it gets better, then I'll know that's the problem.
 

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I have found the old bounce test really doesn't work anymore. Springs are more compact and won't deflect much with your body weight. Undampened, the weight of the car can easily compress them. If you put in higher rate springs, the car is going to ride harder. If you replace the shocks, they won't bottom out anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
... Springs are more compact and won't deflect much with your body weight. Undampened, the weight of the car can easily compress them. If you put in higher rate springs, the car is going to ride harder. If you replace the shocks, they won't bottom out anymore.
Interesting. What puzzles me is the car passed MOT equivalent here and the independent test that showed 70% OK. But as far as I know the test kind of "shakes" the struts. Doesn't really compress them in any significant way.
So an additional question, how reliable is the test?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
That's why i'm seeking advice - none are present.
Good luck with that attitude.
Side note. I'm terribly sorry. Looking back I think I understand how that could be read back. I did mean "That's why I'm seeking advice here, none of the usual symptoms of a bad strut that I know of other than bottoming the struts, are present". Not "no advice present".
Sorry, no offence meant - English is not my native tongue.
 

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Point taken. Sorry to jump to a conclusion.
I would think that if there was the slightest chance that something was wrong the dealer would quickly take your money. Maybe it's just the car design.
A thought most manufacturers fit struts that dampen mostly as the car rebounds. A good set of aftermarket double acting struts would make the world of difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Good that we cleared that up. This forum is really helpful and I did not mean to be seen as a douche, I really did not mean it that way.

I had a 2004 Getz and it was great. I don't think that it had that much of a design difference. So I'm going to change the springs with the shocks because changing the springs vs the whole strut doesn't really make a whole lot of difference in terms of EURs. Before, I would do it myself, however the last time I witnessed a spring compressor brake, that equaled a hole in the passenger door, so I'm going back to the dealer certified garage and my office job since I don't have place to work on my car.

The dealer doesn't want to change them because they don't usually see that kind of problem without broken springs or leaking shocks, as per what they told me. If I describe the problem and they recommend a fix, and the problem is still present - well they are liable for that here.
So I respect them for not guessing and replacing parts "willy nilly". I much prefere that to the alternative.
They say it's good, the test says it's good, but my feeling and ear say's not. Kind of curious now.
And because I dislike posts without posting a solution. Will inform you how it ended. :)
 

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They sell the complete unit strut and spring here so I suppose that's to reduce the risk of accidents. Makes for a quick easy repair. Dealers here seem to be able to get away with doing unnecessary repairs and charge heaps to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Solution post :) .
I could not ,for the life of me, find a complete strut here where I live, it was either shocks or springs. Never together as a put together unit. Nor, on the internet for Getz that was similar to original OEM without significant cost for shipping. I didn't want anything that was more sporty, just something that was working correctly. So I just kind of said F it and had them changed for me.
Aaand. Blam, No more bottoming out. Ride's a bit stiffer (but precise) on road and definitely on bumps. But that's what I suspected it would be like.

DL : DR Car bottoms out in the front on humps. Garage adamant that struts are good, independent shock test says 70% all good = no problem, car drives ok, no usual bad-shock-sway, and doesn't "search" for the road, however bottoms out on speed pumps when going slow (or hitting messed up potholes on road). Changed struts regardless and problem fixed.

As for the garage guys, I'm pretty perplexed as how they didn't find the front end soft on the small test bump drive. It didn't bottom out but it was still soft in my limited experience with compact cars. They were pretty snooty towards me when I still said to change the struts. Maybe I look like an office rat, who knows :p. But what the heck, problem solved.

So cheers guys, your help and input was much appreciated :)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
A thought most manufacturers fit struts that dampen mostly as the car rebounds. A good set of aftermarket double acting struts would make the world of difference.
Interesting, as I do like learn as much as I can (I'm the guy that most of my friends take with them to buy new used cars).It's just for my theoretical knowledge.
So if I understand this correctly, does that mean that "bottoming out" means hitting bump stops and the cars are meant to feel that way? As long as there is no sway.
Personally I thought that If the car does bottom out, as long that it's not on a massive pump of some kind(jump, hard pothole or something similar), means it's not working correctly.
 

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Most front genuine struts will compress very easily which is when you hit the bump being very soft but resist as it extends back to it's normal length. I suppose they do this to prevent the car lifting as it hits a bump. Many aftermarket are whats called 50/50 meaning it has the same resistance either way which makes the car ride a little firmer but making it more stable in my opinion.
Great to see it's fixed.
 
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