[osheem]

So about a month ago my 2013 Sonata GLS started to make some klunking noise going over the littlest bumps over the road from the front end on both right and left side.


I brought it to one mechanic and they said the rack and pinion needs replacing which is an expensive fix. I couldn't believe that was the problem as I had no leaks and it was on their solid. I ended up taking it to my uncles mechanic and he stated its the stabilizer links on the front right and front left wheels. My way to work has a lot of bad pot holes...thanks to our wasted tax dollars not fixing the roads year after year, so I'm hoping that the stabilizers are actually the problem.

Anyways, tomorrow I will be bringing it to the mechanic to have them both changed. I know a lot have been complaining about this issue and instead of replacing the rack and pinion, I thought I'd try and see if it actually is the stabilizer links and provide a fix for some of the sonata owners on here.

 

[jpolinki]

I just replaced my rack and pinion at the dealer last weekend for the same reason. Cost was $1000CDN all in. There is also a rubber coupling that could be the problem (which I replaced), but in my case it was the rack.

 

[osheem]

I just replaced my rack and pinion at the dealer last weekend for the same reason. Cost was $1000CDN all in. There is also a rubber coupling that could be the problem (which I replaced), but in my case it was the rack.

Was your rack leaking? Was the car still tracking in a straight line? Are you not able to just change the rubber coupling alone without the rack?

 

[jpolinki]

Was your rack leaking?
No. The steering is powered by an electric motor so the rack can never leak.

Is the car still tracking in a straight line?
Yes, the car tracks fine. It's not a safety issue, just sounds clunkie when going over bumps, ribs or rapidly moving the wheel left to right when parked.

Are you not able to just change the rubber coupling alone without the rack?
Yes, the part is $3 and can be done in the driveway in about 3-4 hours. However, this is not related to the rack and pinion noise and may not be the cause.

After I replaced the coupling for no reason, I took the car in to diagnose where the noise really comes from. I suggest the same, some guys on the board here spent a lot of effort chasing after the wrong cause.

 

[TelesPlayMetal]

2011 Sonata SE. I'm having the same problem. Luckily I had mine checked at 59,000 miles before my warranty expired and I'm so glad I did. Temecula Hyundai in SoCal has been great but are completely baffled by the front end clunk. So far they have replaced the front struts, then the rack and pinion, and most recently the whole steering shaft. None of this has made any difference, its actually getting worse. Next up is the strut tower they said, currently waiting for the parts. I'll ask about the stabilizer links. Anything else anyone can think of? They are paying for all of this so I'm not too worried about it...

 

[osheem]

Was your rack leaking?
No. The steering is powered by an electric motor so the rack can never leak.

Is the car still tracking in a straight line?
Yes, the car tracks fine. It's not a safety issue, just sounds clunkie when going over bumps, ribs or rapidly moving the wheel left to right when parked.

Are you not able to just change the rubber coupling alone without the rack?
Yes, the part is $3 and can be done in the driveway in about 3-4 hours. However, this is not related to the rack and pinion noise and may not be the cause.

After I replaced the coupling for no reason, I took the car in to diagnose where the noise really comes from. I suggest the same, some guys on the board here spent a lot of effort chasing after the wrong cause.

My problem is each side makes a noise depending on which side the pot hole is on which is why im suspecting its not the rack. Turning the wheel left and right for me is fine and doesn't cause sounds at a stand still. Which dealer did you have this repaired as I see you are also in Toronto?

2011 Sonata SE. I'm having the same problem. Luckily I had mine checked at 59,000 miles before my warranty expired and I'm so glad I did. Temecula Hyundai in SoCal has been great but are completely baffled by the front end clunk. So far they have replaced the front struts, then the rack and pinion, and most recently the whole steering shaft. None of this has made any difference, its actually getting worse. Next up is the strut tower they said, currently waiting for the parts. I'll ask about the stabilizer links. Anything else anyone can think of? They are paying for all of this so I'm not too worried about it...

Ill be getting the parts this afternoon and having it repaired this evening so ill keep you updated. Good on you for going before the warranty expired. Too bad for me the car is rebuilt from salvage title so I don't have any warranty. Other than this the car is perfect...only has 30,000 kilometers

 

[osheem]

Problem Solved!

It turned out both stabilizer links on the front right and front left side were shot. Must of been those pot holes. Too bad these parts go easily. Ended up paying approx $130 for the two stabilizers as I got them from the dealer...I know I could of got them elsewhere for cheaper but Id have to wait for it to be shipped which I don't want to have to do in case the problem gets bigger. Mechanic didn't take any labour so I lucked out on it since it was a simple 15 minute job. Always get a second opinion. Now I know never to trust the mechanic that said I should change the rack and pinion. Would of cost about 1K, and the funniest thing he said hes 99% sure its the problem. Other mechanic said hes 90% sure its the stabilizers...which showed a sign of brownish rust seeping through them. My advice to you TelusPlayMetal is to have them change the stabilizers...simple and easy job that can cause the issue you're having as well.

00000732

 

[TelesPlayMetal]

It turned out both stabilizer links on the front right and front left side were shot. Must of been those pot holes. Too bad these parts go easily. Ended up paying approx $130 for the two stabilizers as I got them from the dealer...I know I could of got them elsewhere for cheaper but Id have to wait for it to be shipped which I don't want to have to do in case the problem gets bigger. Mechanic didn't take any labour so I lucked out on it since it was a simple 15 minute job. Always get a second opinion. Now I know never to trust the mechanic that said I should change the rack and pinion. Would of cost about 1K, and the funniest thing he said hes 99% sure its the problem. Other mechanic said hes 90% sure its the stabilizers...which showed a sign of brownish rust seeping through them. My advice to you TelusPlayMetal is to have them change the stabilizers...simple and easy job that can cause the issue you're having as well.

00000732

I'm glad yours was fixed. My Hyundai dealer said they had checked the stabilizer links first and that wasn't my issue. So along with the struts, rack and pinion, and steering shaft, they just replaced the strut tower brackets and still the clunk is there. They are driving themselves crazy, they are having a Hyundai tech from corporate come out. But like I said before, they are paying for all of it and my wife has a pretty silver Genesis to drive around while they figure this out, so I say just let them take their time!

 

[osheem]

I'm glad yours was fixed. My Hyundai dealer said they had checked the stabilizer links first and that wasn't my issue. So along with the struts, rack and pinion, and steering shaft, they just replaced the strut tower brackets and still the clunk is there. They are driving themselves crazy, they are having a Hyundai tech from corporate come out. But like I said before, they are paying for all of it and my wife has a pretty silver Genesis to drive around while they figure this out, so I say just let them take their time!

One of my stabilizers looked brand new and the other one had a little bit of seeping rust that I didn't notice the first time. I would still have them replace it....easiest fix and very easy to replace...literally 2 screws off and replace and 2 screws back on and wheel back on. 10 minute job at most. Try and have them do it. Nice that the wife gets to drive a Genesis around :smile:

 

[tns1]

Do the stabilizer links require a separator tool or can you just tap them out? I am thinking of removing mine temporarily to see if the noise goes away. As long as you don't go crazy, the car should still be very driveable.

 

[sbr711]

Do the stabilizer links require a separator tool or can you just tap them out? I am thinking of removing mine temporarily to see if the noise goes away. As long as you don't go crazy, the car should still be very driveable.

Remove nut, remove link, install new link, install nut... all done

 

[osheem]

Do the stabilizer links require a separator tool or can you just tap them out? I am thinking of removing mine temporarily to see if the noise goes away. As long as you don't go crazy, the car should still be very driveable.

Its just 2 bolts for each one. No special tools needed. You should be okay to drive it but for a very short time and definitely not crazy.

 

[tns1]

I checked the links when I was under the car today. Grabbing the right side link and pulling and pushing it hard, I can feel a small amount of play and hear clicking. I think it is the upper joint. This may well be the source of one of the many road noises I hear. I didn't remove them for testing since local parts stores do not list these, and local Hyundai needs to order them. For the GLS, they are quoting around $70 ea.

The joints have some kind of plastic cap on them. Does anyone know if these can be lubed or if they are a dry type joint? Lack of grease would explain the premature wear at only 40K. I have a grease gun needle for piercing joint bladders. I have never had a reason to use it, but maybe this is the one time it makes sense.

 

[tns1]

I now see some of the aftermarket replacements have grease fittings, so I'll probably go with one of those. When I checked around, the same Hyundai OEM part seems to be available for as low as $25ea instead of the $70ea I was quoted. I have not seen such a huge price difference on genuine OEM parts. It looks like my local dealer is using a 2x to 3x markup. I guess their parts inventory is more valuable to them for in house work than selling to DIYer. Way to discourage dealer visits.

 

[Smoke1991]

rockauto.com order the BECK/ARNLEY brand. usually just reboxed OEM parts. How do I know you might ask.. Well thats because i just changed my links 2 weeks ago and thats what I got inside the box.

 

[tns1]

Great prices. Unfortunately they look like exact duplicates with no apparent improvements, and I'd worry about premature failure. While there are many quality ball joint/tie rod bushings out there without grease fittings, Hyundai seems to have gone with a lower quality product on this car. The Moog with metal bushings & grease fittings is looking better to me. If I get those I'll post an update.

 

[Smoke1991]

Great prices. Unfortunately they look like exact duplicates with no apparent improvements, and I'd worry about premature failure. While there are many quality ball joint/tie rod bushings out there without grease fittings, Hyundai seems to have gone with a lower quality product on this car. The Moog with metal bushings & grease fittings is looking better to me. If I get those I'll post an update.

Go with moog then

 

[TelesPlayMetal]

So the clunk in my suspension is finally fixed! This is almost too funny...it was driving them crazy. They replaced the front struts, then rack/pinion, then steering shaft, then strut tower, and finally the entire subframe. The total work for them was just under $4,700. Guess what they finally found after all that? A malfunctioning brake pad. That's the most expensive warrantied brake job I've ever had!!!

 

[osheem]

I checked the links when I was under the car today. Grabbing the right side link and pulling and pushing it hard, I can feel a small amount of play and hear clicking. I think it is the upper joint. This may well be the source of one of the many road noises I hear. I didn't remove them for testing since local parts stores do not list these, and local Hyundai needs to order them. For the GLS, they are quoting around $70 ea.

The joints have some kind of plastic cap on them. Does anyone know if these can be lubed or if they are a dry type joint? Lack of grease would explain the premature wear at only 40K. I have a grease gun needle for piercing joint bladders. I have never had a reason to use it, but maybe this is the one time it makes sense.

Their shouldn't be any play. That is probably your problem. Id get them replaced asap, I'm so happy the sound is gone. I ended up going with the OEM links from the Hyundai dealership as I couldn't stand waiting longer for the parts to be shipped. I hope you fix the problem! Let us know how it goes.

 

[tns1]

So the clunk in my suspension is finally fixed! This is almost too funny...it was driving them crazy. They replaced the front struts, then rack/pinion, then steering shaft, then strut tower, and finally the entire subframe. The total work for them was just under $4,700. Guess what they finally found after all that? A malfunctioning brake pad. That's the most expensive warrantied brake job I've ever had!!!

This does not inspire confidence in the diagnostic skills of that garage. I'd sure like to see a pic and hear an explanation of what exactly was wrong with that pad. Pads float in the caliper assy and can clunk slightly under braking forces. What made this one exceptional? Worn out? Missing backing plate(s)?