Hyundai Forums banner

1 - 20 of 45 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
729 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I wanted to get opinions from you guys about the quality of Formula Shell conventional oil.
I'm a Quaker State guy myself, but every now and then BJ's Wholesale has a really good deal on a case of Formula Shell oil. I get it from time to time but I don't get the warm and fuzzies when using that oil like I do when using Q.S. I dunno, I could just be a brand w#$%re but wanted to see the thoughts of others. I run my oil to about 7,000 mile intervals.

I've done some online research be different site contradict other sites.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,498 Posts
Its a quality oil. It is liked on BITOG.

I'll Say Pennzoil(also sopus product) in the yellow bottle is the best conventional oil on the market from all the reading I've done.

My car has starting consuming oil lately so I just started it on Pennzoil ultra for the low NOACK. We'll see if it helps.
 

·
Retired Staff
Joined
·
11,818 Posts
Shell, Quaker State, Pennzoil all different brands from the same company. From what I have read they use the same base stock with different additive packs.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
1,090 Posts
There are plenty of stories about problems with different types of oil filters; rare is their one about oils. 90% of Americans are running whatever is on sale, at the quick lube station and whatever oil the dealer is pumping. Hyundai wouldn't recommend Quaker State and the 100k warranty if it was garbage. Shell is just fine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,498 Posts
The average driver could run the cheapest store brand oil for the life of their vehicle and be perfectly fine. Too much emphasis is put on oil brands.

Its far more important to worry about all of the chemicals in the processed food we/I eat. :O
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,650 Posts
My neighbor runs Chrysler minivans to 350k miles+ and religiously uses walmart Supertech oil. ( messenger service).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
746 Posts
I will not call one brand good or bad. I will say that with 30 years I have serviced Army vehicles to commercial vehicles and all my cars and trucks in-between. I have had a few over heats due to stuck thermostats and with dino oil I ended up with blown/leaking head gaskets afterwards. With Synthetic oil and overheats I have not had one head gasket fail.

If a person plans to own a vehicle for short term, then any oil is good. If a person has plans or desire to keep a vehicle for long terms or heavy use I would recommend a good synthetic. BITOG site has a lot of reviews and testimonies on oils and their pros and cons. GDI engines have been around for a while, but are still in their infant stage in regards to refinements to their weak points. Synthetic is a form of security that has more to offer than expected. GDI engines don't have the port injection that helps to clean or reduce deposits from the ventilated recirculated oil from the PCV and synthetic has a higher threshold to its cooking point vs dino and in the long term without a catch can it will have better results. I do in-frame rebuilds on gas and diesel engines and I see the results of good and bad oils via sludge deposits and intake build up and throttle bodies need the least cleaning and intake manifolds can get down right horrible. 6 months ago I had to replace an oil cooler on a mercedes sprinter and the cooler sits in the valley between heads and required removal of intake and it was 50% clogged with sludge buildup, all due to poor maintenance and bottom dollar oils. In the end in the years to come, catch cans will gain traction and become part of the car from factory as GDI becomes the norm. Same way carborated changed to injected throttle body and then multi port injection.

The new V6 in the gen coupe now has larger more compartmentalized baffles in the valve cover to reduce the oil passage thru the ventilation system but still does not stop the oil, just reduces. Some problems are found in testing, but a lot of them are found in real world outcomes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,498 Posts
I will not call one brand good or bad. I will say that with 30 years I have serviced Army vehicles to commercial vehicles and all my cars and trucks in-between. I have had a few over heats due to stuck thermostats and with dino oil I ended up with blown/leaking head gaskets afterwards. With Synthetic oil and overheats I have not had one head gasket fail.

If a person plans to own a vehicle for short term, then any oil is good. If a person has plans or desire to keep a vehicle for long terms or heavy use I would recommend a good synthetic. BITOG site has a lot of reviews and testimonies on oils and their pros and cons. GDI engines have been around for a while, but are still in their infant stage in regards to refinements to their weak points. Synthetic is a form of security that has more to offer than expected. GDI engines don't have the port injection that helps to clean or reduce deposits from the ventilated recirculated oil from the PCV and synthetic has a higher threshold to its cooking point vs dino and in the long term without a catch can it will have better results. I do in-frame rebuilds on gas and diesel engines and I see the results of good and bad oils via sludge deposits and intake build up and throttle bodies need the least cleaning and intake manifolds can get down right horrible. 6 months ago I had to replace an oil cooler on a mercedes sprinter and the cooler sits in the valley between heads and required removal of intake and it was 50% clogged with sludge buildup, all due to poor maintenance and bottom dollar oils. In the end in the years to come, catch cans will gain traction and become part of the car from factory as GDI becomes the norm. Same way carborated changed to injected throttle body and then multi port injection.

The new V6 in the gen coupe now has larger more compartmentalized baffles in the valve cover to reduce the oil passage thru the ventilation system but still does not stop the oil, just reduces. Some problems are found in testing, but a lot of them are found in real world outcomes.
Over 250 million vehicles on the road in this country. I'm sure 90% of them use nothing but the cheapest bulk conventional oil but for some reason we don't often hear about our friends, family, co-workers having oil related engine problems. It's just not that critical.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,168 Posts
If in doubt...use the oil that makes you feel best. Not really worth splitting hairs over. They pretty much all meet spec. You can go crazy comparing all the oils :eek:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
746 Posts
Over 250 million vehicles on the road in this country. I'm sure 90% of them use nothing but the cheapest bulk conventional oil but for some reason we don't often hear about our friends, family, co-workers having oil related engine problems. It's just not that critical.
Case in point, you are comparing apples with oranges.
GDI,,,, is not a regular Multi Port injection engine. GDI gives better MPG as well as Power with a trade off with some unwanted side effects. I work on diesels and they are GDI. The only thing about diesels is there has been no mandate for crank case recirculation until the past few years with the new DEF systems. So there are Millions of diesel cars and trucks running around that have a simple vent tube that vents into the atmosphere, the new ones are a PITA. The new ones use DEF Regeneration to clean the catalysts. And the biggest change is the inclusion of a oil catch containers to trap the vented oil vapors. Commercial Hino uses a un baffled container and Commercial Mitsubishi uses a container with a filter that is changed every OIC. I see the effects of GDI on a larger scale and see the impending changes in store for gasoline cars going GDI. Trust me, all those apples running around are not like the orange you own.

Things change so much I have to spend $1000-$3000 a year on tools and storage to keep up, That's not including diagnostic tools. I work for a company that does contracted maintenance and repairs, I don't work on only KenWorths, everything from ford transit vans to lexus, ford e150 to f750, hino to peterbuilt. I see the pros and cons from both sides of the fence.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,498 Posts
I was making a generalization about most vehicles. You're talking about specific types of engines, mainly heavy(duty) equipment it sounds like.

Close to a million YFs(including or not including Optimas?) have been built. We really don't hear too much about oil related problems with them. It took 4 years and millions of dollars to develop the Theta II engine. Don't you think some of that was devoted to determining lubrication needs? They DO recommend fuel cleaner and or top tier gas every once in a while. They had the foresight to include that in the owner's manual. Certainly they would have included any special lubrication needs if they were that necessary. They don't just sit down and conjure up an engine design and not consider all of this stuff. or do I have it all wrong? lol

I'm not disputing your knowledge or experience at all, just making a generalization about the average driver and their maintenance habits. Not trying to start a debate here.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,650 Posts
I was making a generalization about most vehicles. You're talking about specific types of engines, mainly heavy(duty) equipment it sounds like.

Close to a million YFs(including or not including Optimas?) have been built. We really don't hear too much about oil related problems with them. It took 4 years and millions of dollars to develop the Theta II engine. Don't you think some of that was devoted to determining lubrication needs? They DO recommend fuel cleaner and or top tier gas every once in a while. They had the foresight to include that in the owner's manual. Certainly they would have included any special lubrication needs if they were that necessary. They don't just sit down and conjure up an engine design and not consider all of this stuff. or do I have it all wrong? lol

I'm not disputing your knowledge or experience at all, just making a generalization about the average driver and their maintenance habits. Not trying to start a debate here.
Not to mention they provide a 100K mile warranty with no extraordinary oil specs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
729 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Calm down ladies...you're both pretty. :)
My main concern was just the quality of the oil. I used Havoline during most of high school with my cars because that is what my father used. Then got on the Quaker State kick since about 1999. Just never really thought much about it but with the price difference I can get with the Formula Shell it is hard to pass up. Just wanted opinions on it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,551 Posts
Shell conventional is some really good stuff. Its what we use in the shop as a standard. then Pennzoil for "premium", high mileage and synthetic.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
746 Posts
I was making a generalization about most vehicles. You're talking about specific types of engines, mainly heavy(duty) equipment it sounds like.

Close to a million YFs(including or not including Optimas?) have been built. We really don't hear too much about oil related problems with them. It took 4 years and millions of dollars to develop the Theta II engine. Don't you think some of that was devoted to determining lubrication needs? They DO recommend fuel cleaner and or top tier gas every once in a while. They had the foresight to include that in the owner's manual. Certainly they would have included any special lubrication needs if they were that necessary. They don't just sit down and conjure up an engine design and not consider all of this stuff. or do I have it all wrong? lol

I'm not disputing your knowledge or experience at all, just making a generalization about the average driver and their maintenance habits. Not trying to start a debate here.
No. I am not trying to knock you, I compared MPI to GDI. the reason people have fewer problems is that they are driving engines that have had 10,20,30,40 years of refinement for function. The GDI is not new but still in its infant stages. If they spent time and computer time to design the Theta then they would have worked out the ticking and knocking people hear when it is cold and have 20,000 miles, but the again it is because it is working just like a diesel engine and one of the things that separates them is one has spark plugs and one works strictly on compression. The choice of oil quality and type will be the difference between cost savings or unexpected expenses.

I have to fix vehicles, the more they are neglected the more work I get the more overtime the more money and the happier I get.

I am not knocking on anyone's views or interpretations. I just see things from the inside out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
746 Posts
Not to mention they provide a 100K mile warranty with no extraordinary oil specs.
Warranty is a marketing method, the fine print is what will determine the outcome and that includes that every single point of service be covered as dictated in the manual, there is more than OIC. Any car company can offer 100,000 warranties, my fords didn't have that warranty and the engines outlived my suspensions and transmissions.

I see it on the long term point of view
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,650 Posts
Warranty is a marketing method, the fine print is what will determine the outcome and that includes that every single point of service be covered as dictated in the manual, there is more than OIC. Any car company can offer 100,000 warranties, my fords didn't have that warranty and the engines outlived my suspensions and transmissions.

I see it on the long term point of view
I see it as I can pretty much use any oil out there and as long as I change it regularly, I'll never have to worry about paying for engine issues for 100k miles. Then again, I bring it to the dealer for oil changes so perhaps I shouldnt be in this thread:). Just discussion - nobody should get irritated!
 
1 - 20 of 45 Posts
Top