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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, I've read a few of the post with this and I think this one is what I'm looking to do, http://www.hyundai-forums.com/222-yf-2011-sonata-i45/141434-easy-led-kit-3.html#post1070952.

I would like the LED's to come on only when the light at the end of the front doors comes on. Here is what I have not found yet, a picture of where someone spliced into the #4 slot on the link above.

If I'm missing something, please let me know and shoot me a link to where it's talked about. If someone can get me started, I'll do the work and shoot the video if needed to help others.
 

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Splice location to the BCM circuit is above the gas pedal on the black box with the 3 white connectors on it. Find the yellow with a black stripe wire on the rearward most connector. There are no wires between it and the first wire on the connector so it's easy to find.

There is a picture of this location on the Bearcats post referenced in your post above. Its not easy to reach this location but possible.

The above refers to the connection for the #4 wire of the dome light circuit. This connection will provide a timed shutoff of the interior lights same as the courtesy lights. This connection is the ground and is negative. So power your led lights and run to this connection for the ground. The lights should come on and go off with the doors but its timed off.

The actual door lights are a simple on/off circuit and are not timed off like the dome lights. I don't believe you want your led's to go off with the door lights as stated in your post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Following all but a few points

I'm following everything from your post and Bearcats posts except where you or anyone would suggest on getting the power side from? If I understand correct, all items here would be ground side. Second, if they are all ground, why is #18 stated as ground.

Let me say this also, I'm not an electrician by any means but I can do electronics. I basically follow the electrons through the wire, but this one is kicking me. Never worked on a system that works this way. So I really do appreciate all the help on this.
 

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First let me preface this by thanking the Members of this forum that guided me in my installation of the footwell LED's.

The yel/blk wire is a "switched" ground. Once a door is opened, the ground becomes present. (see 1st pic)

You can get 12V off the fuse block by using an "Add-a-Fuse". (see 2nd pic)

Loosely make connections to ensure your polarity's correct.

View attachment 83505

View attachment 83513
 

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I'm following everything from your post and Bearcats posts except where you or anyone would suggest on getting the power side from? If I understand correct, all items here would be ground side. Second, if they are all ground, why is #18 stated as ground.

Let me say this also, I'm not an electrician by any means but I can do electronics. I basically follow the electrons through the wire, but this one is kicking me. Never worked on a system that works this way. So I really do appreciate all the help on this.
First let me preface this by thanking the Members of this forum that guided me in my installation of the footwell LED's.

The yel/blk wire is a "switched" ground. Once a door is opened, the ground becomes present. (see 1st pic)

You can get 12V off the fuse block by using an "Add-a-Fuse". (see 2nd pic)

Loosely make connections to ensure your polarity's correct.

View attachment 83505

View attachment 83513
This.

The Sonata is ground switched; not positive switched. Meaning to complete the circuit the ground is toggled active/non-active to complete the circuit. You attache your positive to your circuit correctly to an appropriate source and then the ground part of your circuit goes to the described black/yellow wire.

EDIT: You use pin FOUR...not eighteen.
 

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Bearcats...Did I state that correctly? I certainly didn't want to mislead anyone. I thought that GRD wasn't there on the Yel/Blk until the door switch was operated.
 

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Bearcats...Did I state that correctly? I certainly didn't want to mislead anyone. I thought that GRD wasn't there on the Yel/Blk until the door switch was operated.
I thought we said the same thing? I are being corn-fused now?

Pin 4 is your toggled ground. When active, it completes the circuit (active) when off the yellow/blk wire is not active.
 

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OK...now I see. Yes I agree. I thought we said the same thing also in 2 diff ways.
Again I reiterate. It was with help such as yours and others that made my install easy to follow, and complete.
 

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OK...now I see. Yes I agree. I thought we said the same thing also in 2 diff ways.
Again I reiterate. It was with help such as yours and others that made my install easy to follow, and complete.
No worries. I reread both of our posts a few times trying to find the disconnect. Usually the command of the English language isn't my strong suit (born and raised in the mid-west)_ so I usually assume when someone points something out I mis-worded something. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
You Guys

Wow, that is what I was needing!!! I've been on a few gun forums and they are quick to answer but you guys have them beat.

I knew I was going to need what I call a vampire tap for the Y/B wire but this add a fuse is new to me. I've seen it a few times already reading around and seen it a few times but this is cool. To Radio Shack I'll go!!!

Bearcats, funny as I'm from the mid-west also and knew what you were talking about. What does that say?? I also see you have some other mod's, have you or have you seen others that have used the 'add a fuse' more than once?

THANKS for the pict's.
 

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Wow, that is what I was needing!!! I've been on a few gun forums and they are quick to answer but you guys have them beat.

I knew I was going to need what I call a vampire tap for the Y/B wire but this add a fuse is new to me. I've seen it a few times already reading around and seen it a few times but this is cool. To Radio Shack I'll go!!!

Bearcats, funny as I'm from the mid-west also and knew what you were talking about. What does that say?? I also see you have some other mod's, have you or have you seen others that have used the 'add a fuse' more than once?

THANKS for the pict's.
If you have a bunch of accessories; you might want to wire in a supply block. I have only LED stuff inside and used the same source. In other cars, I usually will pull a supply block/fuse/relay terminal so that I don't junction a bunch of existing OEM connections. One part will be always on, one will be ACC only on.
 

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Sonic...FYI...if you use the Add-a-Fuse, make sure you have the correct size. I think they come in Regular and Mini. The Mini is the size you want. If you want to make sure, pull another fuse out an see.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Updates

Thanks for the advice but only adding two 12" strips.

Question, will a mini 'add a fuse' work or do I need to get a low profile 'add a fuse'? Most of them state 10a max, I was thinking about using a spare/open slot. Any thoughts?
 

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Thanks for the advice but only adding two 12" strips.

Question, will a mini 'add a fuse' work or do I need to get a low profile 'add a fuse'? Most of them state 10a max, I was thinking about using a spare/open slot. Any thoughts?
If one of the empty one provides power when you want (verify with volt meter) then that is the best way to do it. If its truly blank.

mini is reference to regular or mini sized fuses. Low profile means the add a fuse holder is low profile.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Update

Thanks. I think the answer is yes it will work if the spot is truly on/hot.

Bearcats, you must have this one on auto notify to answer so quick.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Success!!!

Yes. It works, after I got the wrong Y/B wire the first time. I'll get something written up and some pictures later this week.

Thanks Everyone:D
 

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First let me preface this by thanking the Members of this forum that guided me in my installation of the footwell LED's.

The yel/blk wire is a "switched" ground. Once a door is opened, the ground becomes present. (see 1st pic)

You can get 12V off the fuse block by using an "Add-a-Fuse". (see 2nd pic)

Loosely make connections to ensure your polarity's correct.

View attachment 83505

View attachment 83513
I followed these directions exactly and everything works.. kindof. Led's light up when key fob pressed or door opens.. but they stay on while driving ??
they go off when key out and door locked as supposed to .. but not sure why they remain on while driving ,,
Any suggestions.
 
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