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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone,

So I ordered the fog light kit from Shark Racing and received it today. I took of the bumper and installed the lights. I also connected the hot wire to the battery and the ground. However, there's another wire that's supposed to be routed through the firewall and connect to the provided switch. Is there any way to bypass this? I just want the fog lights to come on when the lights are on. Actually, I dont even care if the lights are on, the fog lights can be on all the time. I just don't feel comfortable routing a wire through the firewall and also taking the steering wheel off to put the new switch on. Any suggestions?
 

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QUOTE (Dave Priz @ Nov 4 2010, 08:36 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=369087
Hey everyone,

So I ordered the fog light kit from Shark Racing and received it today. I took of the bumper and installed the lights. I also connected the hot wire to the battery and the ground. However, there's another wire that's supposed to be routed through the firewall and connect to the provided switch. Is there any way to bypass this? I just want the fog lights to come on when the lights are on. Actually, I dont even care if the lights are on, the fog lights can be on all the time. I just don't feel comfortable routing a wire through the firewall and also taking the steering wheel off to put the new switch on. Any suggestions?
If you have connected the hot wire and the main ground, there should be two wires left to connect, one ground and one leading into the switch. If you ground the black wire, and splice the remaining wire into the main headlight harness, the driving light wire, that should work. Or, find a fuse in the engine bay fuse box that is powered only when the ignition is turned on, and connect to that, and that will also work.
 

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running a wire through the firewall is very easy because there is already a grommet there for other wires to come through. simply push out the grommet or drill through it (your choice) and run the wire through. real simple. no drilling need.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thanks guys! i took the advice from both of you and ran it through the grommet. i'm glad there was no drilling. i just spliced the wire into the power outlet fuse. works great.
 

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QUOTE (Dave Priz @ Nov 5 2010, 06:43 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=369322
thanks guys! i took the advice from both of you and ran it through the grommet. i'm glad there was no drilling. i just spliced the wire into the power outlet fuse. works great.
Can you post some pictures of the foglights and the wire setup? I just ordered mine from shark racing. Any advice on installation would be helpful!! Thanks.
 

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QUOTE (Dave Priz @ Nov 4 2010, 07:36 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=369087
Hey everyone,

So I ordered the fog light kit from Shark Racing and received it today.
Dave: Did you install the whole column-mount switch that came with the kit? How hard was the dissembling and reassembling of the steeling wheel? Any advice for potential doers?

Congrats,
:beer:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I will post pictures. I DID NOT install the column mount switch. It was too high risk for me to take off the steering wheel and risk messing up the airbag. Basically the install goes like this.

1) Take off bumper. There is a post on this forum detailing how to do that. The post says to use a body tool to push down on the tabs holding the bumper on near the headlights, but if you just pull on them, they will come off in tact without the use of any tools.

2) Remove foglight place holders

3) Install new foglights

4) Plug wiring harness into foglights BEFORE you put the bumper back on.

5) Put bumper back on

6) Attach red cord to battery. I cut a small hole in the cover for the positive battery terminal for the wire to fit through.

IMAG0006 by dpriz, on Flickr

7) Attach black ground to grounding nut directly to right of battery

IMAG0007 by dpriz, on Flickr

8) Take grommet off of firewall on drivers side. If you just pull on it, it will come right off.

9) Run the remaining wire (with a white end) through the open space where the grommet was.


10) Put grommet back in place. The wire will not be running through the center of the grommet, but will be on the edge of the grommet. The seal is still water tight so I'm not worried. You can also try to run it through the middle of the grommet but you'll need to do some taping and I think it will be much more difficult.

IMAG0005 by dpriz, on Flickr

HERE'S WHERE YOUR INSTALLATION MAY DIFFER. THESE DIRECTIONS ARE WITHOUT THE STEERING WHEEL SWITCH

Here is a inside view of the cord coming through the grommet above the pedals.

IMAG0010 by dpriz, on Flickr

11) Cut the end of the white wire. It has an adapter on it for the steering column, cut it off and leave some wire showing.

12) Cut off the red wire with the fuse attached from the steering column switch that is provided in the package.

13) Splice together the end of the bare white wire with the end of the red wire you just cut off from the steering column switch.

14) Insert the fuse into a 15A circuit, the tag on the cord says to attach it to a power outlet fuse.

IMAG0011 by dpriz, on Flickr

15) Connect the provided ground to any screw that is the closest.

16) Now you have foglights that come on whenever the car is on.
 

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Nice write-up, and this way to wire up the fogs is much easier than taking the wheel off. makes adding them more interesting for me at least... i feel a burning in my pocket coming from my credit card. must use! :p
 

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yup just connect it to your "level 2" parking lights, it will be on when you have your park lights on and will be on with your headlights on.

u will not b able to shut the foglamps off in conjunction with your headlamps...but that's why the foglamps are there right ?

looks nice.

 

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QUOTE (mayasonata @ Nov 9 2010, 05:30 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=370289
yup just connect it to your "level 2" parking lights, it will be on when you have your park lights on and will be on with your headlights on.

u will not b able to shut the foglamps off in conjunction with your headlamps...but that's why the foglamps are there right ?
I have ordered the factory fog light kit from Sharks, and I believe your suggestion will be how I want to hook them up.
Could you please elaborate what I need to do to. When you say: 'connect to your "level 2" parking lights', where do I make the connection? I assume you mean the circuit that drives the yellow marker lights up front, but I'm not sure where you mean I should tap the power...

Do you mean tap into a wire somewhere, attach to a fuse or what?
Sorry to be so dense.
 

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I posted this elsewhere. I copied it here because of it's relevance. Hopefully I'm not breaking any rules or upsetting anyone with a double posting.
:right:

Just finished adding the factory foglights to my GLS. Shark Racing supplied the parts, and since I haven't heard of anybody else installing the OEM switch I thought I'd share how it went.
#1, you will need a steering wheel puller. I borrowed one from an auto parts store for free with a refundable deposit. You also need a 22MM socket, although you may get by with a box wrench.
* you may wish to record your AM/FM/XM presets, you will be loosing them*
Start with the car parked with the steering wheel straight ahead so you know how to put the wheel back on in the right orientation.
Next remove the negative battery cable.
Wait 3 minutes for all voltage to dissipate. (This takes the scare out of working with the airbag)
Take something solid and skinney like a nail or #0 phillips screwdriver and poke it into each of the three little holes at 3, 6, and 9 o-clock just behind the airbag housing (aka horn button). This is in the HMA online service guide.
The airbag is now released except for the connections. This is also in the HMA guide, just follow the diagrams on where to remove the connectors.
Treat the airbag gently, dont drop your toolbox on it.
The airbag clock spring is next. It is just held in place by 3 snap type keepers. I think they were at 9, 12 and 3 o-clock. Do not rotate this, later you will need to install it just the way it was. (it has a sticker on it telling what to do if it gets rotated, no big deal)
Now remove the the top and bottom column shrouds (real easy, three #2 phillips screws)
Next use the 22MM socket to remove the nut on the steering shaft.
Use the steering wheel puller to break the wheel free from the shaft. A hammer or piece of wood will not work. You need a puller for this. It only takes about one minute to use the puller.
The switches are now ready to be removed. The left and right stalks are snapped together and held on by two phillips machine screws. (and some connectors)
Once they are off, take a flat blade screwdriver and pry the backside of the wiper switch assembly away from the rest of the assembly. Study the new part Shark supplied and you will see where I'm talking about.
It comes off easy, and now you can snap it into the new Headlight stalk assembly and you are ready to put it back together and wire up the new connections.
Shark Racing supplies the wiring info, and reassembly of the rest is just the reverse of taking it apart. (no need to wait 3 minutes this time)
Hope this helps somebody.
 

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Hey I just installed mine, took me a while to get the bumper off on my GLS. Pulling on it didn't work for some reason, I had to get a screw driver and push the tabs upwards from inside of the bumper. Thanks for the pictures though, definitely helped in wiring. I connected mine to the fusebox in the engine compartment, I plugged it into a circuit that wasn't utilized. Works perfect, it's on whenever the engine is running.

I was also trying to upgrade the lightbulb that came with it, because it barely produces any light... so I ended up buying H8 LED bulb on ebay, which doesn't fit since housing is soo small. Did you upgrade yours? any suggestions?
 

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Installed the SR kit (with turn signal stalk). My hope that the Auto mode would now function as on the PEP, did not come true.
I was able to install the lamps without removing the bumper, just the small plastic cover towards the front of the car, and pop out some of the wheel well insert. I didn't want to take the bumper off my sons YF as I've seen how pathetically thin the tab mounts are when mine snapped off.
 

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QUOTE (Scott2011 @ Dec 25 2010, 02:16 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=383246
I don't have the solid strut bar, but will buy it one of these days. I did buy and install the fog lights though. Two thumbs up. They are the Korean version, come with 881 bulbs at 27 watts. You'll want to upgrade to Philips 898 bulbs at 37 watts, or HID. They are Hyundai Mobis, and the custom wiring harness is OEM quality, and looks like it came with the car. The new switch is OEM, and I think the kit is probably the best value Shark has on their website. Zero problems, 100% satisfaction. Makes the GLS look hot. :thumbsup:

Nice write ups everybody...i'll be sure to do this in a month or so....i'm going to wait for tax time so my g/f won't have a cow...lol
 
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and somehow i managed to break one of those plastic clips holding the fuse cover in place in the engine, now it wont come off :( Any ideas??
 

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Thanks for the write up Dave. I would add be sure to disconnect the negative battery terminal, and to be careful with the provided SR power outlet fuse. Mine broke off where the wire was soldered to the fuse.

I was also able to install the lights without taking off the bumper. But I was not able to reach the drivers side top right screw, and the passenger side top left screw after installing fogs. Not enough room for my hand.
 

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QUOTE (Scott2011 @ Nov 16 2010, 08:56 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=372339
I posted this elsewhere. I copied it here because of it's relevance. Hopefully I'm not breaking any rules or upsetting anyone with a double posting.
:right:

Just finished adding the factory foglights to my GLS. Shark Racing supplied the parts, and since I haven't heard of anybody else installing the OEM switch I thought I'd share how it went.
#1, you will need a steering wheel puller. I borrowed one from an auto parts store for free with a refundable deposit. You also need a 22MM socket, although you may get by with a box wrench.
* you may wish to record your AM/FM/XM presets, you will be loosing them*
Start with the car parked with the steering wheel straight ahead so you know how to put the wheel back on in the right orientation.
Next remove the negative battery cable.
Wait 3 minutes for all voltage to dissipate. (This takes the scare out of working with the airbag)
Take something solid and skinney like a nail or #0 phillips screwdriver and poke it into each of the three little holes at 3, 6, and 9 o-clock just behind the airbag housing (aka horn button). This is in the HMA online service guide.
The airbag is now released except for the connections. This is also in the HMA guide, just follow the diagrams on where to remove the connectors.
Treat the airbag gently, dont drop your toolbox on it.
The airbag clock spring is next. It is just held in place by 3 snap type keepers. I think they were at 9, 12 and 3 o-clock. Do not rotate this, later you will need to install it just the way it was. (it has a sticker on it telling what to do if it gets rotated, no big deal)
Now remove the the top and bottom column shrouds (real easy, three #2 phillips screws)
Next use the 22MM socket to remove the nut on the steering shaft.
Use the steering wheel puller to break the wheel free from the shaft. A hammer or piece of wood will not work. You need a puller for this. It only takes about one minute to use the puller.
The switches are now ready to be removed. The left and right stalks are snapped together and held on by two phillips machine screws. (and some connectors)
Once they are off, take a flat blade screwdriver and pry the backside of the wiper switch assembly away from the rest of the assembly. Study the new part Shark supplied and you will see where I'm talking about.
It comes off easy, and now you can snap it into the new Headlight stalk assembly and you are ready to put it back together and wire up the new connections.
Shark Racing supplies the wiring info, and reassembly of the rest is just the reverse of taking it apart. (no need to wait 3 minutes this time)
Hope this helps somebody.
Please Help!
How do I remove the connector locking pin, so i can disconnect the airbag connector? It is step 4 in the HMA guide. I have never seen these yellow type of connectors before, and i don't want to break anything here.


 

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QUOTE (stunt101 @ Feb 3 2011, 05:19 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=398148
Please Help!
How do I remove the connector locking pin, so i can disconnect the airbag connector? It is step 4 in the HMA guide. I have never seen these yellow type of connectors before, and i don't want to break anything here.
Sent you a PM,
Scott
PS: Be sure to remove the other end of the wires where they connect to the steering wheel hardware.
 
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