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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Check your local, state and country laws before you make modifications to your vehicle. I am not responsible for any damages or illegal modifications to your vehicle. Proceed with care!

I have been asking about this one for a while, and now that I have done it, I will go back through it step by step and take pix so anyone with a Philips #2 screwdriver, a knife and five or ten minutes can do this also. The procedure should be nearly identical for any late model Hyundai vehicle, so potentially better off in the General forum, but lets start here with specifics for my 2018 Santa Fe Sport. It should be identical including wire colors for the other trims and the SF "XL" 3 row model, too.

Basically you remove the lower cowl from the steering wheel and locate the two wiring harness connections. One will be the 16 pin/wire main Multifunction Headlight Switch which looks like the diagram in #1. Until I retrace my steps taking pictures, here is the picture (#2) from the 2017 service manual. Same 16 wire connector.

Before you staet, pin 10 is the black ground wire from the fog lights which is looped onto the ground for the low beams. That's how / why they only light when the low beams are on (otherwise they have no ground).

Cut that wire about 1/2" from the far end after pulling it and making sure that you have the right end - away from pin 10. Use some electrical tape to seal the other end - not this wire, but the one that you cut it from.

Ground the black wire to the screw next to the 16-wire connector, or anywhere else you find bare metal. Use electrical tape or a crimped lug, or find a direct ground wire (they are all black) and use a positap.

Now the fogs work any time you have ACC power, and still turns off when you switch the SUV off.

THATS IT! Put the cowl back onto the steering wheel and tighten those screws - you're done.

I will add pictures and perhaps a short 4k video in the next few days.

Next stop: installing my Blitzen 35W AC yellow (3000°K) HID fogs.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
@ew0h55x Easy enough. I am at my mom's house today, but I will get clearer pix posted soon. You should be able to get it done with what I have already posted.
 

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Easy enough. In my case I'll need to leave that original connection accessible to reconnect and make it safety inspection legal again. Four quick connects should do the job.

Could have used the fogs with the parking lamps down at the Oglebay Festival of Lights this past Saturday.....

If anyone knows of a ground connection related to the parking lights so that the fogs would be accessible when the parking lights are on....That would be ideal and pass most safety inspections....
 

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Now the fogs work any time you have ACC power, and still turns off when you switch the SUV off.

I tie mine into a fuse or connector in the fuse block so they are on when the key is in the ON position, so I can listen to the radio and have all lights off. ;)

Of course, I am using an add-on relay for this.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
@greysave You would think that they would have the "Tail Lights" (used to be "parking") ground labeled, but I don't see it. Curious.

That's why I put the disclaimer on the post. Surely it is not legal to do it in Pennsylvania from what I have seen.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Now the fogs work any time you have ACC power, and still turns off when you switch the SUV off.

I tie mine into a fuse or connector in the fuse block so they are on when the key is in the ON position, so I can listen to the radio and have all lights off.


Of course, I am using an add-on relay for this.
Well, that's true for some people, but I bet you paid for it, and this just takes a few minutes. Who sells that module?
 

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Actually.....Since that is only a ground circuit.....I might just be able to tap a splice into that ground wire, mound a small toggle switch tucked away under the dash....Like a hidden valet switch...To make it legal for the safety inspection.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Actually.....Since that is only a ground circuit.....I might just be able to tap a splice into that ground wire, mound a small toggle switch tucked away under the dash....Like a hidden valet switch...To make it legal for the safety inspection.
That would be a great addition to the mod, really. I don't need it, but I am sure that lots of people could.

If you made it a switch, you could have it act like it was originally or bypass the ground to low beams for always available. Ideal would be to swap between ground to low beams or tail lights on, I suppose (for your situation).
 

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Actually.....Since that is only a ground circuit.....I might just be able to tap a splice into that ground wire, mound a small toggle switch tucked away under the dash....Like a hidden valet switch...To make it legal for the safety inspection.
Be sure to get a STDP Single Throw Double Pole switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Be sure to get a DPST switch.
Optimal would be an A/B radio button type switch, but I can't think of an easy source for a 12v one. I am sure that there is an easy solution to swap between two grounds.
 

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Optimal would be an A/B radio button type switch, but I can't think of an easy source for a 12v one. I am sure that there is an easy solution to swap between two grounds.
I believe an A/B switch essentially is a version of a DPST switch just with "buttons" instead of a toggle switch.

Just need to make sure BOTH grounds aren't "on" at the same time :)
 

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Well, that's true for some people, but I bet you paid for it, and this just takes a few minutes. Who sells that module?
I have a box of relays from the 90's. It had 12, I still have 6 left. I think I paid $20 for the box. :D

I find a link in the fuse panel under the hood that is switched with the ON position, and send that to the relay trigger, and that turns on the lights.

On my Hyundai there was a free connector under the hood, on my Scion I had to add a tap to a fuse.

I've been following electrons for ~40 years...;)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
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That's coming soon for those who don't know how: finding an ACC hot connection under the hood for DRL.
Speaking of driving lights, I still haven't had a chance to modify my housings for those OSRAMs yet. ;) I was hoping to have them in for the winter, but it may have to wait for Spring.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Speaking of driving lights, I still haven't had a chance to modify my housings for those OSRAMs yet.
I was hoping to have them in for the winter, but it may have to wait for Spring.
Shoot, you can get a pair of Putco H7 sockets new for around $10, if you can't find a pair in the local LKQ lot.

Of course, I know that there's more to it than just the socket, but that's most of the battle.

I found some 62261SBP bulbs cleaning out the storage locker last week. Those are the Osram high wattage ones, essentially H9 100w burners on H7 bases.
 
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Great write up! Thanks ratledge!

I would love to have Anytime fog lights on my '14 SFS but am not so technically advanced without step by step detailed instructions/video.

Are you still planning to make a video or further detail your mod? I just don't want to mess anything up!

Also, your post title is "fog lights anytime" but then the second post says DRL, I take that as daytime running lights? I thought they were two different lights, DRLs being the LED "eyebrows" above near the hood, and fog lights being the lowest lights to the ground. Can you clarify which lights your mod applies to?

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Great write up! Thanks ratledge!
...
Are you still planning to make a video or further detail your mod? I just don't want to mess anything up!

Also, your post title is "fog lights anytime" but then the second post says DRL, I take that as daytime running lights? I thought they were two different lights, DRLs being the LED "eyebrows" above near the hood, and fog lights being the lowest lights to the ground. Can you clarify which lights your mod applies to?
Yep, sorry. Rereading the thread from the beginning, I can see why it is a bit confusing.

The 2014 SFS should be essentially identical, and I will go back and give details with 4k pix if I don't do a video.

Basically you take three screws out to take the lower steering wheel cowl off.

Beyond that you simply cut and reground that one black wire coming out of pin #10. It is the only wire that loops back into the harness.

The comments about DRL are not really part of this thread, but I have been talking about adding an extra DRL pair of lights using the unwired low side of the front turns signals by installing switchback LED bulbs in place of the amber turns. It is already an 1157 (2357?) lamp, but starting a few years ago they quit wiring what used to be parking lights.

That requires me to show people how to find ACC power under the hood. I will be writing it up and posting it soon. I will take pix this time instead of retracing my steps.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Someone pointed out that the view of the wire I show was wrong, but I was just showing it from behind (#1 in OP). Don't cut wire #15 (it's not black, which should clue you that something is wrong).

Notice that #2 is the same thing but it shows the front view (which reverses numbers left to right.
 
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