Hyundai Forums banner

1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
2011 Santa Fe with a problem with the fan. Believe it's the radiator fan. First time it happened, wife shut off car and fan was still on. Started it back up and shut it off a couple of times and it stayed off. That was over a year ago. Then today, same thing except she didn't notice it until she came back out to car and the battery was totally dead. Got a boost and as soon as they hooked up the leads from good battery the fan was on.

I saw someone in a thread about a 2006 Sonata (?) doing this kind of thing. Anyone know anything about this? Dealer had no idea first time we told them about it. Guess it's back in to say it happened again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,163 Posts
Will assume for the moment that you are correct and that it really is the radiator (cooling) fan and not the condenser fan (which to avoid fogging, can also run at this time of year without A/C on if you've got the front defrost going). Fan is controlled by a relay which is driven by the PCM. There's some chance that the relay is sticking. It's in the box, under the hood, on the driver's side. It's unlikely, but so is your situation. One other possibility - that the wire that the PCM uses to generate the ground to fire the relay is somehow exposed and shorted to the frame (or any ground) somewhere. That would be somewhere between the PCM (which is back near the relay box under the hood) and the relay box. Also not very likely - it's a short run and there shouldn't be any mechanical issues to damage the wiring. It's in a fair bundle anyway.

Edit: For what it's worth - if it WAS a condenser fan and not the cooling fan, all of the above still applies identically apart from which relay is involved.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply. Actually, judging from the comments the CAA guy made he seemed to suggest it was the condenser fan. He told my wife to avoid using the window defroster to keep it from coming on until she had it in to get looked at. He also mentioned it could be a stuck relay causing that to stay on.

Sounds like this guy had the same problem, but not really a resolution.

http://www.justanswer.com/hyundai/7flcs-hyundai-santa-fe-2010-santa-fe-when-shut-off.html
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,163 Posts
Sounds like the CAA guy has a decent head on his shoulders. For the price, and since this is an intermittent problem (total bugger to diagnose when it's not misbehaving), I'd be inclined to ditch the relay for a new one as a preventive measure -- as an attempt to reduce the odds of getting stuck with a dead battery again. While being able to ring up CAA is nice, you never know where she'll get stranded, or how long it will be until someone shows up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Good advice! I took a look on Rock Auto and can't see any condenser relays. Googled around and no luck. Maybe I'm looking for the wrong thing? Also, I see there's a "Condenser Fan Relay (High)" and "Condenser Fan Relay (Low)." Replace both?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,163 Posts
Hard to say - wasn't there to hear it!

It's an interesting lash-up. There are (as you note) three different relays operating the two fans up there. It's even possible to run the two fans in series, reducing the speed of both of them. Knowing which had been stuck requires a good ear or observation of which of the fans is turning. That's why I wish you were sure about that.

One relay controls only the +12 to the radiator fan.
One of the condenser relays takes the ground from the radiator fan and either sends it straight to ground, operating the radiator fan at high speed, or through the condenser fan (causing both to operate a low speed).
The other condenser relay can operate the condenser fan at full speed by sending +12 directly to it. So it's all a bit of a mess sorting which is the culprit until you know what the fans were doing when this problem occurred. They run about $11 to $18 each (ouch). You'd be out around $30 to replace the two condenser fan relays.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Thank you for your posting.

I had same issue with our 2011.

In my hast I replaced one relay.

Going to pick-up another relay today (HI/LO Con Fan Relays, replacement).

Unable to find 3rd relay?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
Condenser Fan On

The condenser fan stayed on on my wife's 2012 Santa Fe today killing the battery.
I recharged the battery, unplugged the fan, then searched this subject and found this post.
I took gave a healthy tap to the top of both the HI & LO c-fan relays, took it for a ride and the fan is off now.
A couple points: I eyeballed as best as I could but only could find one fan, I saw only the condenser fan but no radiator cooling fan(s) & I don't know which of the two relays was hung up. I may just replace both.

But ? Could there be a high temp sensor somewhere that got stuck ?
:smile: Thanks for this thread, got me on the right track.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,331 Posts
I saw only the condenser fan but no radiator cooling fan(s)
That's odd. There are normally two. The radiator fan is forward of the transmission dipstick & the condenser fan is in front of the engine.

ST Ken; said:
Could there be a high temp sensor somewhere that got stuck?
No, the fan relays are controlled by the engine PCM not directly by any thermo switches/sensors.

Regards.

Scott.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
That's odd. There are normally two. The radiator fan is forward of the transmission dipstick & the condenser fan is in front of the engine.


No, the fan relays are controlled by the engine PCM not directly by any thermo switches/sensors.

Regards.

Scott.
Thanks Scott, I'll take a much harder look
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
I ordered 2 relays (95230-2P030) from hyundaioemparts.com (FL) for 10.46 each, $25.33 with shipping.

I only found one (18" diameter) fan in front of engine bolted to the radiator, then I got down on the floor to thoroughly view the condenser from below & thru the grille and saw no more fans.

I could not find any transmission dipstick, and our manual states "no trans check needed" for normal use
Our Santa Fe is a 2012 and I do find differences in the CM model over the 2007-2012 year range, most obvious is the dual exhaust that we don't have on ours and I believe the engine size changed over those years as well.

Please let me know what "PCM" stands for (I am only familiar with ECM for electronic control module)

PS: since I whacked (tap'd gently) the two con-relays the fan has been operating fine - thanks for the help
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Running fan on Santa Fe

Thanks Scott, I'll take a much harder look

I have 2012 Santa Fe and had been experiencing constant fan on. I took it to Midas they told me it was the battery, so they changed the battery. After 2 months later, same thing, this time the new battery completely died. Took back to Midas. This time they told me it was the Alternator and changed that, replaced another new battery. A week later, fan is still running again. After reading the messages, I used the front defogger today. Any suggestions what I should do ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Wife's 2010 Santa Fe (for the 2nd time since she has had it) condensor fan stayed on. The reason why I know it is the condenser fan (and not the other fans mentioned in the posts I have read on here) is because I pulled the 50 amp CON/FAN fuse in the engine compartment fuse box. I was out of state the last time this happened and the neighbor informed me he pulled the same fuse and the fan went off. I put the fuse back in a couple of times and the CON/FAN continues to come on. I will replace this fuse in the morning and hope and pray it fixes the problem. Does anyone know why this is occurring? Especially since now I know for sure that it is the CON/FAN? Thanks in advance.
JT
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,163 Posts
If you pulled the 50A CON/FAN2 fuse and the fan shut down immediately, understand that this fuse supplies power through the corresponding CON/FAN2 high speed condenser fan relay. Either the relay is sticking or you've got a ground on the PCM side of the relay coil that is enabling the relay. Here's hoping it's the former. It's also in the box under the hood.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,036 Posts
Yeah, killing the power to the device will stop it (pulling the fuse). No surprise there but pull the control relay and check that its working (switching on/off).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,163 Posts
Pulling the relay is the same as pulling the fuse. No surprise there, as you say. Fan shuts off either way.
However, if he pulls it and gives it a good rap and re-installs it, and the fan remains off, then 99% odds it's a relay issue. Easy enough to replace in any case.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,036 Posts
Pulling the relay is the same as pulling the fuse. No surprise there, as you say. Fan shuts off either way.
However, if he pulls it and gives it a good rap and re-installs it, and the fan remains off, then 99% odds it's a relay issue. Easy enough to replace in any case.
Nope!!! He was to check it switch on/off (energizing the coil). But if its sticking or stuck closed (metering the power contacts) it should be replaced. Pulling the main 50A fuse to a subsystem is no different than tripping off your house main breaker to see why something is always running. Neither will run without power (if it does I want one, lower my hydro bill) LOL

I figured you'd understand the difference without details. If the OP isn't confident using a meter and testing the relay. Well then just replace it and go from there. Most shop/dealer would likely do that first since its easy. Then see if it cycles on/off after that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,163 Posts
I fully understand the difference.

Since this is such an intermittent issue, using sufficient force to pull the relay may in itself be enough to knock the contacts loose (these relays can be pretty tightly held), so measuring them after removal may not provide good information about the condition of the contacts.

However, if tested while the problem is happening, and giving the relay a sharp rap after removal (to give the contacts a chance to unstick IF they're still stuck), reinstalling it, and discovering that the fan remains off after reinstall is a good indicator that the contacts were the issue. I suggest this first because it's an easy test, and doesn't even require the OP to locate a meter. Of course one could measure them as well, but see first paragraph. A measurement that indicates open contacts after removal isn't a guarantee that they were open before removal. If a good rap doesn't do it, then before replacing the relay...

... we're down to either a short to ground of the wire headed back to the PCM, or the PCM itself. Finding +12V between the contact pins in the coil socket when the fan should be off would occur in either of those cases. The former will likely be a pain in the butt to locate, and the latter is expensive.

If there's no 12V between the coil pins, then the relay was the problem, even if giving it a whack didn't loosen it up.

For the OP's sake, I'm hoping it's just the relay.
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Top