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Discussion Starter #1
I just put in the AEM SRI and I'm looking for a way of improving flow and power, but avoiding the usual "Rice" sound that comes with custom exhaust setups.

Does anyone know of any good muffler/resonator combinations that improve flow greatly, but keep the sound down (relatively)? Also, ones that can be fitted to the accent within the space constraints of the chassis.

I would think that a Borla Turbo muffler and an 18" Vibrant resonator could do this, but I guess a Vibrant Ultra Quiet would be better. The only thing is that the Ultra Quiet has a much bigger diameter than the standard vibrant one. If anyone has actually checked the exact dimensions of the underside of the car, that would be even better, but I guess just posting what people have in this general category would be great help.
 

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QUOTE (AccentSE_44 @ Nov 12 2010, 09:47 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=371264
I just put in the AEM SRI and I'm looking for a way of improving flow and power, but avoiding the usual "Rice" sound that comes with custom exhaust setups.

Does anyone know of any good muffler/resonator combinations that improve flow greatly, but keep the sound down (relatively)? Also, ones that can be fitted to the accent within the space constraints of the chassis.

I would think that a Borla Turbo muffler and an 18" Vibrant resonator could do this, but I guess a Vibrant Ultra Quiet would be better. The only thing is that the Ultra Quiet has a much bigger diameter than the standard vibrant one. If anyone has actually checked the exact dimensions of the underside of the car, that would be even better, but I guess just posting what people have in this general category would be great help.
You could order the Hyundai Performance factory peice.. Theres a dealership that sell its on ebay... Not cheap but designed to fit and work twith the accent and keeps factory warranty intact.

http://www.hyundaiperformance.ca/images/pe...ce_parts_en.pdf
 

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Search for BloodNinja's setup, I have a similar one and can attest it is very quiet and very effective (I went without the perfect mandrel bends though, close to though ^_^.)

When I had it done I actually found it was quieter than stock and with no restrictions. When I added on the headers the volume increased some, but it sounds great, not ricey in the least bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Woahh! I don't know how I missed that one. I think I found his cardomain page a while ago when I was looking for picture of how the SRI looked.

Really nice sound in the video and the setup makes sense. Pictures should help the muffler shop when I finally get around to the install. I guess I never thought about installing the muffle sideways, but obviously it works well.

On another note, how can installing a catback exhaust setup affect the warranty? The exhaust system isn't covered by the warranty after the Cat. Now, between the Cat (Cats?) and the engine I could see them making a case. If it was a header, maybe (but I don't intend on installing a header), but I would think that the only way they could make a case for an exhaust messing things up would be if there was excessive backpressure (not likely) or hardly any backpressure at all affecting the engine. Do a lot of dealerships void people's warranties for not having "enough" backpressure?
 

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Since I've pretty much done everything I want to do to the accent short of forced induction or rear-brake conversion, my next purchase will probably be this magnaflow setup.

So, how much should I expect to pay a shop to do the setup?

I remember a bunch of years ago when I had my last car and really didn't know much about exhaust systems or have friends who were into cars, I paid a shop $350 to install a coffee-can-type muffler (I only provided the muffler). But, I'm generally sure I got overcharged and somewhere between the piping and welds the setup developed a huge hole in it and I ended up going back to stock.

So, I guess my question is:

How much should it cost if I provide the muffler and resonator?
How much should it cost if I provide the muffler, resonator, piping, and flange to go to the cat?
 

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Dunno, but labor is $100/hr where I live. Parts (welding, flanges, and straight pipe) are cheap compared to that, so long as you're providing your own muffler resonator and tip.
 

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I went w/ a 2.25" magnaflow hi-flow cat and 2.25" piping back to a knockoff twinloop muffler. Great sound and doesn't sound like a bee in a tin can. I did a lot of research before I chose that muffler and i have had nothing but complements on the sound. If you get something welded, I would recommend getting matching flanges to be able to bolt the header to the cat w/out additional welding.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
QUOTE (bloodninja @ Dec 28 2010, 07:33 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=384030
Dunno, but labor is $100/hr where I live. Parts (welding, flanges, and straight pipe) are cheap compared to that, so long as you're providing your own muffler resonator and tip.
Do you remember how many hours it took?

Do you also remember how much piping and flanges cost from the shop? I'm thinking about just ordering the flange and tubing along with my resonator and muffler to make sure it's quality and that it's a thicker gauge than the shop might have (I don't know if shops usually have multiple gauges or if they go by 14 or 16 gauge as opposed to 18 or higher).

I'm also wondering if it's better to ask them to sectionalize it into 3 parts with 5 flanges (before the muffler, before the resonator, and where it meets with the cat), if there's any benefit to allowing flexing between the flanges.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
OK thanks.

Yeah, I'm not sure what the install is going to be like. I've become extremely particular. I wouldn't want to do it unless I could swap the original exhaust back in for whatever reason.
 

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Unbolt the factory muffler. To loud? Bolt it half way up, it'll still sound nice, but not as loud, and it'll still flow very well. No need for spending $$$$$$. This is free and take 5 minutes to do.
 

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Well that wasn't too hard lol..
source: TxDPS - Chapter 4 - Inspection Procedures

20.15 Exhaust System - Every motor vehicle shall at all times be equipped with muffler in good working order and in constant operation. Muffler defined: Muffler is a device consisting of a series of chambers or baffle plates or other mechanical design for the purpose of receiving exhaust gas from an internal combustion engine and/or turbine wheels for the purpose of receiving exhaust gas from a diesel engine, both of which are effective in reducing noise.
NOTE: On vehicles manufactured or equipped with a muffler and a turbo, the muffler must be present and in good working order.
The exhaust system includes the manifolds, gaskets, exhaust lines, mufflers, resonators, tailpiping, and supporting hardware.
Motor vehicles cannot be equipped with a muffler which is perforated or which was perforated and has been repaired, either by a muffler repair jacket or by patching or in any other way. In those cases where a muffler is perforated at the time of an inspection or has been perforated and has been repaired previous to the inspection, the muffler must be replaced or the vehicle rejected.
Some pickups are equipped with a camper or hard shell cover and are sometimes used for the transportation of passengers. The tailpipe should discharge the exhaust at the rear or sides. This truck modification will be considered as a passenger compartment.
The entire structure of a passenger vehicle or a motor home-type vehicle is considered a passenger compartment. The cab only of all other truck-type vehicles is considered passenger or luggage compartment.
If the vehicle is equipped with lake pipes or similar devices, such pipes or devices must be securely plated and bolted or capped.
Dual exhaust systems may be modified to single exhaust systems and single exhaust systems to dual exhaust systems, provided the modification does not violate requirements concerning exhaust emission systems.
The catalytic converter will be considered as a part of the exhaust system on all vehicles prior to 1984 year model and will be inspected only visually (if present) for leakage. On 1984 and later model light truck and passenger vehicles, the catalytic converter will be checked for presence and leakage. Flexible tubing which meets the requirements listed below may be used anywhere in the exhaust system.
NOTE: Inspection of exhaust systems covers the discharge of exhaust fumes and is not concerned with the noise level.

  1. Inspection Procedure. The exhaust system shall be examined visually while the engine is running to determine efficiency of the system.
  2. Inspect for and reject if:
    1. Vehicle is not equipped with a muffler.
    2. Any joint is loose or leaking, including manifolds. Does not include minor leakage at exhaust control valve (manifold damper or heat riser valve).
    3. Manifold is cracked or broken causing leakage.
    4. Holes, leaking seams, or patches on the muffler, resonators, exhaust pipe, tailpipe, or catalytic converter.
    5. Exhaust system is not secured to the vehicle by mounting brackets designed for exhaust systems (wire is not acceptable).
    6. Any brackets are loose, broken, or missing.
    7. There is excessive vibration of exhaust line.
    8. Any part of the exhaust system passes through the passenger compartment.
    9. The tailpipe is broken, pinched, or eroded off to the extent to allow exhaust fumes to penetrate into the interior of the passenger compartment.
    10. The tailpipe fails to discharge exhaust from the rear or sides or top of the passenger compartment of the vehicle.
NOTE: Holes in the exhaust system made by the manufacturer for drainage are not cause for rejection. The tailpipe must direct the exhaust fumes out from under the passenger compartment.
NOTE: On pickups not equipped with a camper or hard shell cover, holes or leaks in the tailpipe extending beyond the passenger compartment will not be cause for rejection.
 

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ok so then ill go custom.... lol

can anyone give me a list of things to buy in order to bring to the exhaust shop. keep the same cat then a guess a pipe - resonator and tip?
 
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