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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The error code I believe I have is P0441 which relates to the canister purge valve.

Firstly, what is the difference between the canister purge valve, control purge valve, solenoid canister/control purge valve. I'm seeing all these terms on the internet and its confusing the heck out of me.

Secondly, I live in Canada and unless I want to pay extremely high prices from the dealer I have to buy the part online. I'm having a lot of trouble finding the correct part. Here are a few I found, can anyone tell me which one I need for my Hyundai Elantra 2007 sedan:

*Nevermind I cannot post links. But if you were to go to ebay.com and search for "hyundai 2007 purge valve" or for "hyundai 2007 elantra purge valve" I'm wondering which part I am looking for.

Any help would be appreciated although a definite and confident answer would be the most appreciated. Thanks to all.
 

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Purge valve is under the hood; canister valve is on evap canister at back if car by gas tank.

eBay, Rockauto (auto7 OEM part) or Fourgreenauto auto all cheaper than dealer.

I think I paid $40 plus shipping, might as well add cabin filters etc to justify shipping.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So I'm looking for a purge valve then? Can you provide some more information or a link to what I would actually buy for my car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
YES that information is very helpful. From the first link I am having the 'stuck open' problem:

"Whether you'll need to replace the purge valve will depend on how it has failed. If it's stuck open, you may have difficulty starting your engine after refueling. In the event of such a failure, when you fill your fuel tank, you'll be forcing the fuel vapors into the engine, creating a flooding condition. If the purge valve is stuck closed, you're unlikely to see any negative effects. "

From the second link I am either being paranoid, or I do smell vapours sometimes when I turn on the heating or cooling from inside the car. So if it is 'stuck open' do I really need to replace it or just close it or something? I tried locating it as well with no luck.I heard from some source that it is behind the engine, but if that is the case, then it must be behind, and somewhat below the engine...
 

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Sign up for a free account at HMASERVICE.COM. This site will give you the information you seek.

Provide a US zip code, like 90210, to join the site.

You will find diagrams, repair procedures and other useful info in the Shop or Service Information sections of the site.

The Elantra diagram I looked at on the site showed an image of the purge valve under the hood and also the canister and sensors on the fuel tank. Might be worth professional advice first to identify the real culprit. Good luck with it.

The HMASERVICE site info accompanying the graphic-

INSPECTION
Purge Control Solenoid Valve (PCSV) is installed on the surge tank and controls the passage between the canister and the intake manifold. It is a solenoid valve and is open when the PCM grounds the valve control line. When the passage is open (PCSV ON), fuel vapors stored in the canister is transferred to the intake manifold.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Problem still exists

Update: So because I am a poor student with procrastination problems I still have this problem where my car will crank but not start after filling up gas unless the accelerator was pushed, and I have not yet replaced the purge valve.

I am having additional problems with my car now. It cranks but wont start even without filling up gas, it used to crank and start after a few tries but will crank but not start at all now. Also the car screeches loudly for a few seconds to a minute when it used to start for the past ~5 months (more so in the cold then warm but still happens in warm weather as well). Pushing the accelerator down also does not help. When it cranks now, it is a very consistent sound now instead of an up and down 'cranking' sound, if that makes any sense.

I changed the timing belt and fuel pump a year ago. screeching started occurring around 4 months after that.

So I am wondering if the spark plugs need changing or if it is something else preventing my car from starting. It is +15 celsius here the past few days and dry and I have not driven the car in two days. the yellow check engine light is on since my first post.

I would really appreciate any input on the matter. I can't afford any professional service, or even an assessment to get an error code ($80+/hr). Please bear with me as this is my first car and I am not accustomed with its parts.
 

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once you get it started, test the purge valve. this is very easy to do and potentially free.

once you get the car running and idling for about a minute, it should start tapping away. put your finger on it and you'll feel it. still, could be passing while closed. another easy test: get a CLEAN piece of tubing and try to blow through it. with your breath.

i suggest this because although P0441 indicates purge valve, that is not always the cause. for example, in my accent had the same code and turned out that i had a bad intake manifold gasket. air was getting into the engine past the sensors. this leaned out the mixture to the point where it was getting very very light misfires at idle only - and it was those misfires that caused the ECU to toss that code out there. the EVAP system was fine.

the screeching sound is likely nothing more than a belt loose or glazed, slips on the pulley at first until it grabs.

as for the starting unless full of gas...humor me here. remove your gas cap and try it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
"once you get the car running and idling for about a minute, it should start tapping away. put your finger on it and you'll feel it. still, could be passing while closed. another easy test: get a CLEAN piece of tubing and try to blow through it. with your breath. "

I am really not sure what you mean by tapping and the tubing but really wish I did. Also I connected the battery to another for a few minutes and the car started after a bit of cranking so its possibly a battery problem?

I will definitely try the gas cap thing next time I fill up, hopefully nothing explodes.
 

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Just eliminate the purge valve, it's easy. Just remove the intake side hose from the valve and block it off from the suction. Don't remove the valve or disconnect it in any way. This way you eliminate the potential vacuum leak, while fooling the ECU into thinking the valve is still hooked up and doing its job. You'll still pass your emissions check that way.
 

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you'll eventually get an incorrect purge flow CEL from that. in some places, that means not passing your emissions test.

or fix it right. your choice.

just put your finger on the purge valve with the engine running. it opens and closes rapidly once the car is running for a short time. you'll feel it 'tapping' if its working.

this is your purge valve:



should be right behind the intake plenum. by using tubing, i mean disconnect the tubing from the car already attached. put your own on that is clean and blow into it. put a finger on the opposite hole. if the valve is not holding, air will pass through and you've found the problem.
 
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