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2016 Hyundai Sonata Sport
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Last week my 2016 Sonata Sport with 115,000 miles shot off a P0010 intake camshaft position actuator Circuit / (bank1) code. I reset with computer and it came back shortly later.

Bought new intake camshaft position sensor and went to replace it, real pain where located. It is on right side of engine. Requires removal of air intake scoop(3 Philips screws hold in place and snap fits onto front of car), Also requires remove emission purge valve and two sets of tubing for them, pulls straight off up off metal bracket. Air filter intake hose assembly loosen up the clamp on it and remove attached tubing and remove whole piece out of way. You must remove bracket for the emission purge valve 12mm bolt holds in place. Finally remove 10mm intake sensor bolt. Even after all this stuff cleared, getting to 10 mm bolt was tough, they leave almost zero clearance. Small set of hands helps.

I removed the old intake position sensor cleaned best I could the well where sensor sits...lubricated new sensor o-ring and installed. Put everything back together.

I reset and cleared code after sensor change out. The P0010 code came back in. SO now I need to move on to more troubleshooting steps.

My thoughts are the CVVT(Continuous Variable Valve Timing) oil control valve(OCV) should be next area I look at cleaning control valve or replacing???



The P0010 has come in hundreds of times over past week. On two occasion I did get the P0011 code also with the P0010, but it cleared and only came in two of 100 times. The P0011 for reference is Intake Camshaft Position Timing, Over advanced(Bank1), I assume that it depends on when the code pops pertaining to what part of the RPM band it happens at........so I am sticking to the original P0010 code still being active.............Thoughts and help appreciated greatly!


This is first real mechanical issue for this car for me.................in life of ownership of car.
 

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2016 Hyundai Sonata Sport
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Last week my 2016 Sonata Sport with 115,000 miles shot off a P0010 intake camshaft position actuator Circuit / (bank1) code. I reset with computer and it came back shortly later.

Bought new intake camshaft position sensor and went to replace it, real pain where located. It is on right side of engine. Requires removal of air intake scoop(3 Philips screws hold in place and snap fits onto front of car), Also requires remove emission purge valve and two sets of tubing for them, pulls straight off up off metal bracket. Air filter intake hose assembly loosen up the clamp on it and remove attached tubing and remove whole piece out of way. You must remove bracket for the emission purge valve 12mm bolt holds in place. Finally remove 10mm intake sensor bolt. Even after all this stuff cleared, getting to 10 mm bolt was tough, they leave almost zero clearance. Small set of hands helps.

I removed the old intake position sensor cleaned best I could the well where sensor sits...lubricated new sensor o-ring and installed. Put everything back together.

I reset and cleared code after sensor change out. The P0010 code came back in. SO now I need to move on to more troubleshooting steps.

My thoughts are the CVVT(Continuous Variable Valve Timing) oil control valve(OCV) should be next area I look at cleaning control valve or replacing???



The P0010 has come in hundreds of times over past week. On two occasion I did get the P0011 code also with the P0010, but it cleared and only came in two of 100 times. The P0011 for reference is Intake Camshaft Position Timing, Over advanced(Bank1), I assume that it depends on when the code pops pertaining to what part of the RPM band it happens at........so I am sticking to the original P0010 code still being active.............Thoughts and help appreciated greatly!


This is first real mechanical issue for this car for me.................in life of ownership of car.
Sounds like i might be going down a familiar path others here have been on for this issue, and it always seems to pop up in cold weather is common symptom...........sounds like oil probably gotten into sensor under the cover for camshaft sensor................common issue appears to be a seal which leaks oil under this cover. The temps are interesting everyone has issue in winter with same problems, sounds like Hyundai needs to do something about design if this keeps popping up like this.............See it here in many model years even more current like my 2016.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sounds like i might be going down a familiar path others here have been on for this issue, and it always seems to pop up in cold weather is common symptom...........sounds like oil probably gotten into sensor under the cover for camshaft sensor................common issue appears to be a seal which leaks oil under this cover. The temps are interesting everyone has issue in winter with same problems, sounds like Hyundai needs to do something about design if this keeps popping up like this.............See it here in many model years even more current like my 2016.
I am highly confident mine will be same thing o ring under cover pushed out of place. SO I ask being an engineer what would cause o ring to get pushed out of place? Also note it appears this always pops up in cold winter months. The TSB requires no new materials only pushing old oring back in place. SO I am leaning toward cold temps and cold oil somehow push upon seal, perhaps if one has some sludge built up and mixed with cold temps the seal gets pushed? My two cents. Does anyone have experience on what would cause this seal to be displaced?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
My guess is cold oil viscosity and the high oil pump pressure in cold weather. I believe a lot of failures were occurring in cold weather. The oil seal on the camshaft has the oil pressure behind it to operate the variable valve timing.

Frank 2017 Sonata SE with 40K miles
I ended up ordering the two new seals and cover. My guess is Hyundai very aware of issue on these engines. It looks like they tried to make seals of newer better material.....So my cost on parts ending up being $46 for cover, $46 on one seal, and $30 something on other seal. Total with shipping came to $122 hyundai parts com......will have them early next week, have my mechanic do since I don't have engine lift to hold engine up with engine mount disconnected, will save several hundred vs most places and save probably $700 over dealership repairs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
My guess is cold oil viscosity and the high oil pump pressure in cold weather. I believe a lot of failures were occurring in cold weather. The oil seal on the camshaft has the oil pressure behind it to operate the variable valve timing.

Frank 2017 Sonata SE with 40K miles
Agree that cold weather and oil pressure is cuprit, seems like long term they may need to have some type of shoulder or labyrinth seal type surface added to better protect seal from blowing out.that would allow better protection of seal and greater holding pressure to pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Was able to order the three parts online as suggested by others from their work papers. I installed parts myself, took about 36 minutes to do. I bought a 1000lb engine support and lift bar for $79. The parts ran $46, $43, and $30 required to replace the cover on the camshaft sensor with new one, plus two new caps. The part which I found blown out was size of a dime and about twice as thick as a dime. This is one of the caps which cost me about $30 online. I take it they changed few things with the new parts in design a bit, I hope they did anyways. The key tool which sped things up was having the 1000lb engine bar. I hooked up bar to support engine weight on the left side of engine. Removed the overflow for radiator with two bolts, left passenger side engine mount after engine was properly supported and rubber bushing, this gave me access to all the bolts one needs to remove to get the bracket out of way to access the camshaft cover bolts. In all I would guess I had to remove about 10 to 12 bolts ranging in size from 8mm up to 14mm to access and remove the cover. I found the inside seal(cap) had been blown out, and there was about quarter cup of oil inside of the camshaft cover housing. Put in new parts, reconnected battery negative terminal and car has been running great since. Total time for this job for me was 36 minutes with cost for parts ordered online at approximately $120 with shipping. I also had cost of purchasing the 1000lb engine support bar at $79 from one of my favorite local supply shops. Good tool to have I can see this tool is needed if you work on the sonata regularly to gain access to the passenger side of engine. I could have jacked engine from underneath but that would take longer, and I wanted to pick up the engine support bar to have in my tool kit. Total time for repair for me was 36 minutes start to finish, inside cap was blown out.....................Thanks all for the information. I am not a professional mechanic, have worked on cars, ships, boilers for much of my lifetime, and 36 minutes was great number for completing job. I would consider this job intermediate skills required at best. Easily completed in less than hour by decent mechanic if you have the engine support bar in your tool list.
 

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Great to have the pictures for members future information.

This is a pretty common problem, especially pre 2017. It was posted here a couple years back that the plug had been updated 2017 and on. but there have been all years LF that have had it happen.

It is always amazing to me the mark up at the dealer, this job is from $500-700 at different dealers. I know they have over head but the mark ups are crazy. I was quoted $250 for spark plugs took 15 minutes and I used OEM plug at less than $100, , "service special" at my dealer was $59 for cabin filter change purchased on line for $15 and changed it in 5 min with no tools required, $ 450 for changing the stretch belt for water pump and the serpentine belt, OEM belts online were less than $80 and took 30-45 minutes.

Shop around and use independent shops if you cant DIY, but many of the basic maintenance is pretty simple stuff that only requires ramps or jack stands and basic hand tools. You can save thousands
 

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It is always amazing to me the mark up at the dealer, this job is from $500-700 at different dealers. I know they have over head but the mark ups are crazy. I was quoted $250 for spark plugs took 15 minutes and I used OEM plug at less than $100, , "service special" at my dealer was $59 for cabin filter change purchased on line for $15 and changed it in 5 min with no tools required, $ 450 for changing the stretch belt for water pump and the serpentine belt, OEM belts online were less than $80 and took 30-45 minutes.

Shop around and use independent shops if you cant DIY, but many of the basic maintenance is pretty simple stuff that only requires ramps or jack stands and basic hand tools. You can save tousnads
Wages, insurance, taxes, building, tools, supplies, overhead, utilities, etc. cost a lot of money. It's no different than paying $150 for a pair of Nike's when we all know they cost $10 to make in China...gotta pay those sponsorship deals. There is certainly a point where it becomes excessive profit for the dealership though. Many people can't, won't, or don't know how to "DIY". Lots of things on here "we" view as easy is extremely difficult and time consuming for others. For example, I recently replaced my girlfriends cabin and engine air filter on her 2010 Lexus...the local Lexus dealership wanted ~$75 to install each filter or ~$150 total. I paid ~$30 total and was done in 15 minutes. She had no idea what either of those were or what their purpose was. All she knew is they needed to be replaced and $75 each didn't seem so bad once every ~30k miles. But of course I "knew" better. They also wanted ~$400 ($800 total) for each axle to replace the brakes. You just don't know what you don't know! :geek:
 

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I hooked up bar to support engine weight on the left side of engine. Removed the overflow for radiator with two bolts, left passenger side engine mount after engine was properly supported and rubber bushing, this gave me access to all the bolts one needs to remove to get the bracket out of way to access the camshaft cover bolts. In all I would guess I had to remove about 10 to 12 bolts ranging in size from 8mm up to 14mm to access and remove the cover. .
Took a look at my Sonata after reading this and am curious where you were able to connect the chains on the support bar on the passenger side. Didn't look like anyplace was obvious unless its under the plastic engine cover.
 

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I'm having this issue now with my 2017 Hyundai Sonata sport with 36,000 miles, The p0010 code is randomly coming on and off, Is it covered under the warranty? because if not it makes no sense going to the dealer to be ripped off.
 

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That's a good video and very helpful but I can't help but comment on his "you could do this yourself very quickly" comment as he has then proceeds to use an engine support hook that only those with repair shops would have and then removes multiple parts of the vehicle lol. This isn't a simple oil change or air filter replacement.

:rolleyes:
 

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I'm having this issue now with my 2017 Hyundai Sonata sport with 36,000 miles, The p0010 code is randomly coming on and off, Is it covered under the warranty? because if not it makes no sense going to the dealer to be ripped off.
 

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Last week my 2016 Sonata Sport with 115,000 miles shot off a P0010 intake camshaft position actuator Circuit / (bank1) code. I reset with computer and it came back shortly later.

Bought new intake camshaft position sensor and went to replace it, real pain where located. It is on right side of engine. Requires removal of air intake scoop(3 Philips screws hold in place and snap fits onto front of car), Also requires remove emission purge valve and two sets of tubing for them, pulls straight off up off metal bracket. Air filter intake hose assembly loosen up the clamp on it and remove attached tubing and remove whole piece out of way. You must remove bracket for the emission purge valve 12mm bolt holds in place. Finally remove 10mm intake sensor bolt. Even after all this stuff cleared, getting to 10 mm bolt was tough, they leave almost zero clearance. Small set of hands helps.

I removed the old intake position sensor cleaned best I could the well where sensor sits...lubricated new sensor o-ring and installed. Put everything back together.

I reset and cleared code after sensor change out. The P0010 code came back in. SO now I need to move on to more troubleshooting steps.

My thoughts are the CVVT(Continuous Variable Valve Timing) oil control valve(OCV) should be next area I look at cleaning control valve or replacing???



The P0010 has come in hundreds of times over past week. On two occasion I did get the P0011 code also with the P0010, but it cleared and only came in two of 100 times. The P0011 for reference is Intake Camshaft Position Timing, Over advanced(Bank1), I assume that it depends on when the code pops pertaining to what part of the RPM band it happens at........so I am sticking to the original P0010 code still being active.............Thoughts and help appreciated greatly!


This is first real mechanical issue for this car for me.................in life of ownership of car.
I know this is old news but just to share, my 2016 Sonata 2.4 had P0010 fault code and engine idle was up at 1200 rpm, once the engine was re-started it went down to 800 but if you accelerate it wouldn't come back down. After reading these posts I took off the cam cover on the passenger side and sure was happy to see that plug was out of the shaft. Living in Canada we had a cold night or two so far this winter and I guess the oil pressure popped it out. $265 in parts from the dealer and about an hour of labour on my part, problem solved. One thing I didn't see in the repair process was that a Hyundai mechanic told me he puts a very thin layer of gasket silicone on the outer diameter of the seal to give it a better hold, so I did that, here's hoping I get another 110000 KM's . Thanks for the help from all of you. I was a auto mechanic in 1978 but went to aviation so coming back in retirement is a new ball game.
 

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This newly posted video may help you out with this problem.

Well done video, I believe this should be a recall but I'm not holding my breath. I did however come accross a tip to improve the replacement, a thin film of gasket silicone on the outer diameter of the plug will help with the retention. If there is oil pressure behind this plug it doesn't have any feature except friction to hold it, the plug may shrink over time and pop out, as mine did. I measured the old against the new and had .010" difference, not sure if there was a change to the manufacturing of it or just shrinkage. Something to consider. Thanks for the video, big help.
 
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