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epic fail if plastidip

12K views 13 replies 5 participants last post by  yefeng 
#1 ·
asked the shop before I bought em how many I need, they told me 2 cans of paint, one black and I got a glossifier just in case.

Brought the rims to the shop that painted them white, they just poured the paint right on without doing layers or anything, just straight out empty the can onto the rim.... tons of white surface and really ****** job... makes me wonder if they really did the white color or someone else

end result.... hate the color, only got 2 done so I have 2 white and two bronze and people are giving me weird looks thinking I intentionally am running with two different wheel colors....

My advice.... don't go dark bronze on black - -



 
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#2 · (Edited)
I know from painting RC car bodies (my only point of experience of painting stuff) that a backer color can change the front color. Other than surface integrity could there be a reason they left the white on other than being down right lazy?

I know Nissan gets that cool silver on the G rims (circa 2005) by two colors of silver on a black surface.

From a distance it looks good. I know it doesn't "pop" but thats the type of modding I like. Subtle, different, nice.

EDIT: I think I would have made the center bronze as well.
 
#3 ·
originally I would have liked them to paint on the original surface as in remove the white and paint over the actually silver paint. Would have left a brighter color and not too dark.

But they wanted to go directly over the white (which was more cream than white now). Told them to put a thin layer of black over the white to give it a little darker shade... but they just went all out on black... then all out on the glossifier.... end results... too dark... maybe one or two shades lighter would have been better

the color itself doesn't look too bad, but I just don't feel it matches well with the polished lip
 
#6 ·
I heard with Plastidip you can just find an edge, start working at it with your finger nails and peel it right off. At least that was on actually car surfaces and not rims.

Too bad they did such a crap job, the bronze would look really nice if done correctly. I'd try doing it yourself next time. There are many videos on YouTube from DipYourCar.com with Fonzie showing exactly how to go about dipping rims.
 
#7 ·
@ OP, that sucks man. I've done a lot of plasti-dipping to my car and stuff, and doing a ton of research before I went ahead on the projects, to start out the same no matter what the surface. Prep is key, along with tapping areas off! First coat is a light dusting, 2nd coat a little heavier and 3rd as well a little heavier, you should still be able to see the actual paint color of whatever your spraying on top of, so say you do rims you should sill be able to see the undercoat(original coat) a little bit after the 3rd coat. Then go on heavier and heavier then, start spraying in 45° angles, I usually lay down a total of 6-7 coats of plastidip no matter what the project maybe, just so it's think enough to withstand debris and whatnot. FORGOT TO MENTION ANOTHER KEY PART, wait 15 minutes between coats so the dip can harden. The waiting part sucks but to get a nice clean and good looking turnout that's what has to be done, and if done correctly the dip will not peel off until you actually start to peel it off, car washes scrubbing whatnot it holds good and lasts long, then when you are ready to remove it you can pick at one spot and slowly rub back until you can grip a nice piece and it will all come off in big "sheet like pieces". Sorry to hear about your bad experience with the product, but like I said if done properly the product is awesome and you will like the turnout.... Better luck next time


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#8 ·
thanks tymmers, im not hating dipping... actually think it's cool and convenient.... will go to another shop today to remove it and maybe go on with a different color... bronze would look good on concave single piece wheels... but I think this bronze doesn't match the polished lip so I need to go another color :(
 
#10 ·
Hoho, the infamous yoshi responds to one of my threads... I am honored (mainly because you got a fd3s and thus making me jealous)

Basically the color doesn't look that bad, but on a black car it looks too dark... Would look better on a white car for sure...

The color itself has been removed today as I'm going to a different color..... And well.... After repeatedly stating my car is too long and too low the shop finally realized I can't get up their hoist so I wasted 4 hours there .... - -

Which reminds me, how long is the wheel base of the us sonata? Because I'm thinking the china one may perhaps be a long wheel base model ... The wheelbase is 2795 here.... How about there?
 
#12 · (Edited)
Only to me you are infamous yoshi haha. ^_~

Yah when I did the white I didn't have much of a choice, wanted gold initially but they didn't have the paint so it was either leave it silver or go with red, blue, green, yellow, orange, black or white..... From that list white was the only decent one.... Now I'm going gold though... Tomorrow should have new pics :D

Seems the wheel base is the same as here, thought maybe we got a longer wheelbase model ... So it seems I'm not the only one with the problem of low and clearance issues lol.

Btw, you went 2jz because of reliability issues? as the 13b is not the most reliable one (had an FC before). 2jz from a soarer, chaser or aristo?
 
#13 ·
*blushes* LOL

I would say gold then white, in order of preference. The white looks good, but like I said, it's very "tuner-ish"....I see a lot of ghetto Dodge Charger/Chrystler 300C guys doing the whole "white rims" thing too...so meh.

I had a Turbo II RX-7 as well :D



That's me in the black shirt. This was 10 years ago. (Man, now I feel old.)

I went 2JZ because my brother is a master wiring specialist and we had a metal fabricator lined up that was an ex co-worker of my brother's.

It didn't work out as planned since my brother moved to Florida and the metal fabricator guy completely slopped his work and didn't even finish.

Three years, three "shops", a bajillion dollars, and a lot of headache later...the RX-7 is still finally nearing completion at a local shop here in Georgia.

If I had known it was going to be this much of a headache of a swap I would have just kept with rotary, believe me.

My 2JZ actually came out of a Lexus SC300; 2JZ-GE. It was torn down and built back up to better handle the boost. It's also been converted to the coil-packs of the twin-turbo motors among other things, so I am actually using a 2JZ-GTE ECU now.

I use an R154 tranny that came in MK3 Supras and a 1JZ bellhousing to connect it to the motor.

Honestly, it's a lot to go over....read my build thread in my signature. lol :p

Tell you what though, I made ~400rwhp on my rotary setup before I started on this endless 2JZ journey, though. It was a blast. Looking back, I wish I had stayed rotary...believe me.



Me and my brother's RB25 280Z from a couple years ago, when the 7 was still rotary....and running.

:p
 
#14 ·
lol, checking out your build thread... I also used to be a member at the rx7 club.... my old username was Efini... haha... and don't worry.... I also came across old photos of my sileighty..... was also around 10 years ago.... back then I looked so cute LOL....

and about your brothers Z.... man... I always wanted to do a custom "Akuma Z" hahaha
 
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