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Discussion Starter #22
I put in new injectors. All of them.
Tank is 1/2 full...
Here keeps raining, I didn't have time to work on the car anymore and since it is my spare car... it's not urgent.
 

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Send a bit this way. We haven't had a decent rain for months but They predict that's about to change over the next few days. Isn't it good to have more than one car.
 

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I am experiencing similar low rpm stalling. I am looking into the diaphram at the end of the fuel rail. I suppose it may be stuck. It looks very old and very oxidized. Original to my 98 sonata. Whatever my problem is it is from sitting for 3 months. High rpm and it runs really smooth.
 

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Low fuel pressure will cause stumbling problems but I don't think it would keep logging a code for a specific cylinder.
 

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I am experiencing similar low rpm stalling. I am looking into the diaphram at the end of the fuel rail. I suppose it may be stuck. High rpm and it runs really smooth.
Low fuel pressure will cause stumbling problems but I don't think it would keep logging a code for a specific cylinder.
In my case I am not getting any codes other than 0300.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I put in some "heet" fuel anti-water (basically methyl alcohol). I have to drive it a bit to see if it made a difference.

The fuel rail starts feeding the injectors with #6, then #4, #2... so if it's water in gas, it makes sense to "drain" firstly in #6.
 

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I had one my own cars that I left stand for some time and when I went to start it up it ran like a dog and because the codes were very basic (older car) I went chasing electrical problems only to end up trying injector cleaner and it started getting better by the day and after 3 days it was back to it's old self and running perfectly. If you heey does nothing I think you need to get back looking for an air leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I fill it with fuel, added HEET water remover and still idles weirdly. Now I can hear the alternator bearing making a high pitch noise, I am wondering if that bearing is about to seize and if that's what makes engine run irregular at low RPM.
 

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Alternators will kae a high pitched noise when a high output is happening but should drop down as the battery charges.
 

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Do you have any gasket leaks? Valve cover, upper intake manifold? Also is your timing correct? Particularly the cam timing. I've had similar issues that lasted for so long only to be the bank 2 cam was off by one tooth for quite awhile
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Well, I have replaced the spark plug wires and still had "miss fires" in OBDII. After replaced previously the spark plugs and injectors.

Then I got tired of the squeaking noise and smell of burned rubber and decided to gamble. I ordered the accessory belt tensioner (Gates, also stamped Hyundai/Kia) and idler (Gates).
Well... that cured the "miss fires"! I guess the bearings were so bad that the seizing at random times was perceived as a "miss fire". I could feel it at low RPM's (low engine power and torque), but not at higher than 1500 rpm.

So all is good now. Except that the right CV axle, that had a ripped boot, now started to clonk in tight turns.
So it goes...
 

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So your saying that a faulty belt tensioner caused a misfire code to be logged? That's one to keep in the memory bank.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
I guess... The belt tensioner spring was tight enough that the belt wasn't actually slipping. But at idle, the bad bearing locking up randomly, was probably changing the RPM in an irregular fashion, detected as miss-fire.

I could feel it actually stumbling when trying to accelerate from idle. Not anymore.
 

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It seems believable I guess. I've seen a car with a missfire and it was a ampwire that was too close to an engine component somehow the insulated wire being simply close to the component made it act up.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Still works, no more codes. Today I will put the engine top shield (cover?) back, to make room in my garage :)
Thanks everyone!
 
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