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Hey guys I recently got my engine replaced because of excessive oil consumption. I noticed they put 5w20 in it instead of the recommended 5w30 im at 300 miles in and going another 300 before I do the first oil change. im going with 5w40. I just want to know for those who had their oil engine replaced if they also had their engines filled with 5w20? I have a 2015 2.0T, I know the 2.4L take 5w20.
They put 5w20 conventional in mine too. Just like you I will change it out early.
 

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Hey guys I recently got my engine replaced because of excessive oil consumption. I noticed they put 5w20 in it instead of the recommended 5w30 im at 300 miles in and going another 300 before I do the first oil change. im going with 5w40. I just want to know for those who had their engine replaced if they also had their engines filled with 5w20? I have a 2015 2.0T, I know the 2.4L take 5w20.
If going with 5w40, better to use the Dexos 2 oils. Here's a web-link list of brands below

You can also purchase a thick 5w30 in Dexos 2. That's what I did for our Korean models. I chose Pennzoil Platinum Euro L. I found it at Walmart. You can buy it online there also and have it delivered free with $35 purchase. Another popular choice is Mobil-1 ESP 5W30.
 

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If going with 5w40, better to use the Dexos 2 oils. Here's a web-link list of brands below

You can also purchase a thick 5w30 in Dexos 2. That's what I did for our Korean models. I chose Pennzoil Platinum Euro L. I found it at Walmart. You can buy it online there also and have it delivered free with $35 purchase. Another popular choice is Mobil-1 ESP 5W30.
I am going to be using Amsoil 5w40 been using it since my engine started burning oil back when i hit around 50k the engine was replaced at 98k miles.
 

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If going with 5w40, better to use the Dexos 2 oils. Here's a web-link list of brands below

You can also purchase a thick 5w30 in Dexos 2. That's what I did for our Korean models. I chose Pennzoil Platinum Euro L. I found it at Walmart. You can buy it online there also and have it delivered free with $35 purchase. Another popular choice is Mobil-1 ESP 5W30.
Pennzoil 0W30 Platinum Euro LX is another good option for colder climates.
 

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I have just performed my second oil change on my 2019 Sport.. Sent an oil sample to Blackstone Labs and at 4800 miles the TBN was at 1.5, anything lower than 1 is considered no longer lubricating. If I had waited until Hyundai's recommendations at 7500, I doubt it would have any lubricating ability remaining. I used Mobil1, 5w20 when it was replaced. Just sent the Mobil1 oil sample to Blackstone for analysis. Should have the results back in a week or so. Normally when I use Mobil1 in my other cars at 5k miles, the TBN is still around 3.5, which means it's still good. No oil consumption at all either oil change. Since I saw on these forums that Hyundai recommends Quaker State 5w30, that's what I used this last oil change.
 

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Many here say 5w-40 for the 2T and 5w-30 for the 2.4.
 

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I have just performed my second oil change on my 2019 Sport.. Sent an oil sample to Blackstone Labs and at 4800 miles the TBN was at 1.5, anything lower than 1 is considered no longer lubricating. If I had waited until Hyundai's recommendations at 7500, I doubt it would have any lubricating ability remaining. I used Mobil1, 5w20 when it was replaced. Just sent the Mobil1 oil sample to Blackstone for analysis. Should have the results back in a week or so. Normally when I use Mobil1 in my other cars at 5k miles, the TBN is still around 3.5, which means it's still good. No oil consumption at all either oil change. Since I saw on these forums that Hyundai recommends Quaker State 5w30, that's what I used this last oil change.
You are doing good Hondaguy. Keep your nose to the dipstick beyond 3K of your next OCI. You don't want too much fuel entering that oil. Fuel and sooty carbon are the two reasons I am going with 3.75k OCIs in mine.
 

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You are doing good Hondaguy. Keep your nose to the dipstick beyond 3K of your next OCI. You don't want too much fuel entering that oil. Fuel and sooty carbon are the two reasons I am going with 3.75k OCIs in mine.
Thanks for the information. I also added a can of BG44K, the last oil change, to lessen the carbon build up.
 

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. Sent an oil sample to Blackstone Labs and at 4800 miles the TBN was at 1.5, anything lower than 1 is considered no longer lubricating. If I had waited until Hyundai's recommendations at 7500, I doubt it would have any lubricating ability remaining.
No, it is no longer neutralizing. The neutralizing additives are being used up.
You can't stop an oil from lubricating any more than you can stop water from being wet.
 

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Mine had 5w30, according to the receipt.
 

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Yes, tested liner with a magnet and it is steel. The aluminum bearings I referred to were the main journal bearings, which seldom fail. They can become embedded with debris from the conrod bearings, score the main journal somewhat but still do not fail, though they would eventully but the conrod bearings go first.

Did not get the last vehicle motor replaced, Hyundai wanted more maintenance records than I had. I've been in touch with several owners here in Canada who suffered the same fate, bought a couple of cars from them. :)
I'm glad that I was mistaken about the liners, it makes me feel better about the engine lasting longer
Thanks!
 

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Hi I am in Canada as well and I have the same issue every 1000km i top up almost 1 L per 1000km and I am going to do the OCT again in June. Do you have any update on your case or result to your OCT?

I'm in Canada, here's my experience so far.
I check my oil fairly often, I noticed one day when I pulled the dipstick out it was bone dry. Turned out the car burned 1.5L of oil in only 2,200 KM. By the way the bottom of the stick to the F mark is only about 500ML with the post recall orange dipstick.

A couple days after that my engine light came on and car is always vibrating and shaking.

Took it to the dealer, they had my car for two weeks and didn't give me a rental. Did a compression test, leak down test and oil pan drop to look for metal shavings/powder in the oil (they didn't find any - if they did I would probably have a new engine) I paid over $300 for all these tests.
They were fighting with Hyundai Canada HQ to approve the engine as the dealer has gotten engines approved with low compression before (even someone on this forum got it with low compression. Now as a last ditch effort they put me on a oil consumption test, now either I consume 1L per 1000km for a total of 5000 KM or the engine seizes. Either way there is still no guarantee on the outcome.
Now I am forced to drive a car running on mainly 3 cylinders, shaking, misfiring, burning oil, puffing smoke etc. Just so Hyundai can delay the inevitable.
 

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2016 Hyundai Sonata 2.4L
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Hi I am in Canada as well and I have the same issue every 1000km i top up almost 1 L per 1000km and I am going to do the OCT again in June. Do you have any update on your case or result to your OCT?
Engine seized before I hit the first 1000km and I got a free new engine and had a rental car for a week while I waited.
 

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I got the p1326 code and my car was in limp mode. The code was coming up as glow relay short circuit but apparently that’s a generic code which really means knock sensor. I called the dealership and the guy instantly acknowledged the code as knock sensor. Made an appointment for them to check out the knock sensor and to see if they possibly needed to replace the motor. They ended up just doing something with the knock sensor. Don’t know if they recalibrated it or replaced the actual sensor but it was done under warranty just wanted to share
Did you have the 953 campaign update done prior to the car going into limp mode? I'm trying to figure out if this code comes up only if the update was done or is it a normal that will come regardless of the update.

Also, when you say warranty is that referring to the normal 100k power train warranty or the new lifetime warranty due to the ecu update?
 

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So what are/were the symptoms that led to you getting your engine replaced? What work or diagnostics did you have to get done before they replaced your engine under the lifetime warranty?
I began to hear knocking when I pulled up to a light after driving on the highway. This started up the engine protection mode. My malfunction (engine) light started blinking and the power was reduced, could barely rev over 2K rpm and get over 60 mph. This was effective, albiet annoying, because it allowed me to continue driving and I was able to get the car to the dealership.

My biggest issue now, is that while the entire engine is being replaced under Hyundai warranty, I have no estimated time of arrival for the turbo to the engine from the Hyundai manufacturing plant. They've had my car for two whole months while I'm stuck in this horrible Kona from Enterprise. I've made complaints about the timeframe to the dealership & Hyundai corporate to no avail. I'm at the mercy of the manufacturing plant which I'm sure is more focused on producing new vehicles than giving me the turbo for my 2015 Sonata. :-(
 

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While the time frame is terrible, the engine is actually remanufactured in a different plant than the new engines, as far as I can tell. The turbo, I cannot say.
It seems as though there are many back orders across many manufacturers since the pandemic
 
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