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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So what are/were the symptoms that led to you getting your engine replaced? What work or diagnostics did you have to get done before they replaced your engine under the lifetime warranty?
 

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P1326 is the code needed for engine replacement. Right now hyundai seems to be replacing all engines that have failed but the class action notification mentions specifically the P1326 code.
 

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Both my engines were seized.
 
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2016 Hyundai Sonata 2.4L
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I'm in Canada, here's my experience so far.
I check my oil fairly often, I noticed one day when I pulled the dipstick out it was bone dry. Turned out the car burned 1.5L of oil in only 2,200 KM. By the way the bottom of the stick to the F mark is only about 500ML with the post recall orange dipstick.

A couple days after that my engine light came on and car is always vibrating and shaking.

Took it to the dealer, they had my car for two weeks and didn't give me a rental. Did a compression test, leak down test and oil pan drop to look for metal shavings/powder in the oil (they didn't find any - if they did I would probably have a new engine) I paid over $300 for all these tests.
They were fighting with Hyundai Canada HQ to approve the engine as the dealer has gotten engines approved with low compression before (even someone on this forum got it with low compression. Now as a last ditch effort they put me on a oil consumption test, now either I consume 1L per 1000km for a total of 5000 KM or the engine seizes. Either way there is still no guarantee on the outcome.
Now I am forced to drive a car running on mainly 3 cylinders, shaking, misfiring, burning oil, puffing smoke etc. Just so Hyundai can delay the inevitable.
 

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Do you have a suction tube to remove some oil out of the dipstick:devilish:
 

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I usually check the fluids in my cars but when i got this one i let my guard down and after 2 years
one day i hear the motor making some strange noises so i pull over shut off car and wait 5 minutes ....check oil and i barely had anything on the dipstick!!

No lights on dashboard or anything to indicate it was low
But since i had done the oil change a month ago i went straight to the dealership accusing them of not putting me the adequate amount of oil.

But after that i started checking and my car kept burning oil like crazy
I had to have a 5 quart jug just to be topping it off between oil changes
I feel that is the only reason it lasted me as long as it did but still 68k miles is ridiculous for it to be siezing up
I feel like if i never checked my oil and topped off regularly
It would of seized up a long time ago

But now i got a new motor installed and extended Lifetime warranty on it and plan to drive it till the wheels fall off!!
 

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I usually check the fluids in my cars but when i got this one i let my guard down and after 2 years
one day i hear the motor making some strange noises so i pull over shut off car and wait 5 minutes ....check oil and i barely had anything on the dipstick!!

No lights on dashboard or anything to indicate it was low
But since i had done the oil change a month ago i went straight to the dealership accusing them of not putting me the adequate amount of oil.

But after that i started checking and my car kept burning oil like crazy
I had to have a 5 quart jug just to be topping it off between oil changes
I feel that is the only reason it lasted me as long as it did but still 68k miles is ridiculous for it to be siezing up
I feel like if i never checked my oil and topped off regularly
It would of seized up a long time ago

But now i got a new motor installed and extended Lifetime warranty on it and plan to drive it till the wheels fall off!!
Thanks for sharing, nice pics!
How many miles did your car last once it started burning oil?
They gave you a new long block?

How did your car seize, what was it like?
 

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Thanks for sharing, nice pics!
How many miles did your car last once it started burning oil?
They gave you a new long block?

How did your car seize, what was it like?
Luckily i was getting home driving around 30mph when it suddenly felt like it downshifted to 1st gear then engibe light started blinking and an alarm like the one to put on youre seatbelt started beeping as well and it wouldnt accelerate.

Luckily i live near the dealership and drove like a snail on the hwy with my hazards on just making it to the dealership when the motor just stopped functioning completely.
 

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They gave you a new long block?

How did your car seize, what was it like?
Do you think if it burns more than their spec (1L per 1000km) that would be enough to get a new engine?
Yes a long block
It was knocking a little, then started making screeching noises, I pulled into the driveway and shut it off, waited a little while, restarted the car to move it for the flatbed, and it ran a few seconds, still screeching at an idle, and locked up.
Yes that will get it replaced, In the US, and likely Canada as well.
 
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Yes a long block
It was knocking a little, then started making screeching noises, I pulled into the driveway and shut it off, waited a little while, restarted the car to move it for the flatbed, and it ran a few seconds, still screeching at an idle, and locked up.
Yes that will get it replaced, In the US, and likely Canada as well.
I see, what lead up to it seizing. Was it burning oil?
 

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It (2011)was burning about 2 qts in 5000 miles, not enough to fail the test., it was never run low on oil, that I know of.
The same with the 2012
 

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P1326 is the code needed for engine replacement. Right now hyundai seems to be replacing all engines that have failed but the class action notification mentions specifically the P1326 code.
Where did you read that? I only see that the knock sensor recall HAS to have been performed on the vehicle, not that it has to throw the code.

452096
 

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It’s self explanatory in the first bullet point. The vehicle must have the 953 service campaign KSDS update done. The lifetime warranty is only for connecting rod bearing failure. And according to Hyundai the KSDS is 100% accurate in detecting rod bearing failure. So if you have a failing rod bearing the P1326 code will be set in the ECM.
 

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It’s self explanatory in the first bullet point. The vehicle must have the 953 service campaign KSDS update done. The lifetime warranty is only for connecting rod bearing failure. And according to Hyundai the KSDS is 100% accurate in detecting rod bearing failure. So if you have a failing rod bearing the P1326 code will be set in the ECM.
At the same time, the engine light will flash and chime and car goes into limp mode correct?
Just like this video
 

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It's supposed to work that way, but it never activated on my car, it knocked for a while, and siezed, without ever lighting the check engine light.
 

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It's supposed to work that way, but it never activated on my car, it knocked for a while, and siezed, without ever lighting the check engine light.
If you can hear the knock before the sensor, that means the sensor must suck and is very inconsistent. I've heard similar stories from other owners about it never activating.
 

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It’s self explanatory in the first bullet point. The vehicle must have the 953 service campaign KSDS update done. The lifetime warranty is only for connecting rod bearing failure. And according to Hyundai the KSDS is 100% accurate in detecting rod bearing failure. So if you have a failing rod bearing the P1326 code will be set in the ECM.
Legal docs are explicit, not "self -explanatory". Per the settlement, there is no requirement for the code to be present. Period. Only that you had the recall done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Just like cobaraunit28, I have to keep a 5 gallon jug of oil in the car between oil changes. I also have knocking/clattering. I guess it's time to visit the dealer again to start the process.
 
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