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I'm considering using the OW-30 Mobil 1 synthetic in my 2.0T . Would that be okay since 5W-30 is recommended? Mobil said that it would be okay and it does not void the warranty.
 

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5W-30 is what Hyundai recommends. And my choice is Havoline Synthetic. :wink2:
 

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OK, I have to ask why? Why 0W-30 and not 5W-30? Where does the OP live that he wants to drop down to a lower start weight?
When Hyundai recommends a weight of oil, even stamps it on engine parts I think I'd go with that. Unless the manual shows a different recommendation for extreme cold temps.
 

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OK, I have to ask why? Why 0W-30 and not 5W-30? Where does the OP live that he wants to drop down to a lower start weight?
When Hyundai recommends a weight of oil, even stamps it on engine parts I think I'd go with that. Unless the manual shows a different recommendation for extreme cold temps.
For all the well-publicised reasons why a very low cold viscosity is good for all engines during start-up when most wear occurs - there's a cost involved as wider range multi-grades usually cost more which comes into any manufacturer's recommendation.

Even in tropical ambient heat, 0W-30 oil is thicker "cold" than when it's up to running temperature !

There's some good reading relating to North American conditions on - Bob is the Oil Guy under Articles.
 

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0W20 or 0W30 only are found in synthetics and are a fine substitute for the 5W. However, unless you live in a cold climate (Midwest or NewEngland) where the 0W would benefit I would say not worth the extra cost. But it will not void any warranties etc. I ran a 0W30 for years and loved it but decided on the lower cost 5W. Both Amsoil and Mobil 1 make fine 0W oils
 

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0W30 is just fine!! I am using the Castrol European Formula 0W30 in my 2013 2.0T Santa Fe! It is a true "full synthetic....which Mobil 1 0W30 isn't. I believe the Mobil 0W40 is though...so you might want to go with that for your turbo...esp if you live in a hot climate. I agree that doing some research on "Bob is the oil guy" will open your eyes to a few things...and many common misconceptions!!
 

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"Bob is the Oil Guy" is a legend in his own mind. :rolleyes:
 

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0W30 is just fine!! I am using the Castrol European Formula 0W30 in my 2013 2.0T Santa Fe! It is a true "full synthetic....which Mobil 1 0W30 isn't. I believe the Mobil 0W40 is though...so you might want to go with that for your turbo...esp if you live in a hot climate. I agree that doing some research on "Bob is the oil guy" will open your eyes to a few things...and many common misconceptions!!

OK, I'm here for some "ed-U-cation". Mobile 1 isn't a "full synthetic" oil? I've been lied to all the many years I have been using it? Seriously, when I read "Full Synthetic" on any brand I take it at their word. When is Synthetic not a synthetic?

I'm surely not doubting you, just asking how to tell what is and what isn't. :confused: After 70 years I have realized there is one or two things I don't know!! :D
 

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0W30 is just fine!! I am using the Castrol European Formula 0W30 in my 2013 2.0T Santa Fe! ...so you might want to go with that for your turbo...esp if you live in a hot climate.
please elaborate why a 0w oil would be "especially" beneficial in hot climates?
 

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Guys,

Stick to what the manufacturer recommends at least for the period of the warranty and same goes for the oil filter.

Avoid yourself potential problems.

When the warranty is over; who cares, you're on your own.
 

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I've been using the recommended 5W-20 conventional oil (Valvoline) as my 2012 Accent manual requires with a genuine Hyundai oil filter. Cheap changes and great results. See attached oil analysis. I don't see the benefit from deviating from Hyundai's guidelines. cheers.

PS. I like oil thread debates, an exchange of opinions, empirical data, and scientific facts that can be measured IE, oil analysis. We all can learn something from others experiences.
 

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I. Cheap changes and great results. See attached oil analysis. We all can learn something from others experiences.
Well, great results, maybe, but you only put 3000 miles on the oil and the engine is still breaking in thus the higher iron level at only 3000 miles on the oil (copper as well)and 12,000 on the engine, silicon is elevated also at only 3000 miles but engine is still breaking in and will be for many many more miles. If you continue to do the UOA the trend for the iron and silicon should be to go down. IMO very short OCI, why not the 5000 interval. plenty of TBN left to play with . Iron is mileage dependent to some degree so the more miles on the OCi the higher the iron in theory so I look at iron PPM/1000 miles as the indicator. Silicon, nowhere near the correlation to miles, for the most part, once broken in S/B under 15 PPM,maybe 10 for the OCI. In either case though, not much you can do to change the results, engine should still outlive the rest of the car.

I am not a big fan of Blackstones averages, they don't tell you how many are in their sample for universal averages, not do they look at wear metals as PPM/1000 miles. Thus an engine that spews 10 ppm of iron at 3000 miles is better looking on paper than one that does 12 PPM at 10,000 miles. Obviously the 10,000 mile OCI has less wear but Blackstone does not see it that way.

For even better results change the oil every 1000 miles, yea, not realistic but the UOA would be fantastic. Not a fan of UOA, basically a waste of money.
 

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I think he meant 0W30 instead of 0w20.
regardless, id love to hear him elaborate on why a 0w oil would be "especially" beneficial in hot climates.
 

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..."Bob is the oil guy" will open your eyes to a few things...
I don't know anything about Bob the oil guy. I've never used synthetic oil. I've never used a "premium" oil. I've owned and operated cars for 55 years. About 50 of those years I owned two cars at a time. When I was young and changed the oil myself, I bought typical Castrol oil, with the blend specified in the car manual. When I've taken my cars to service garages for oil changes, I no longer even ask what they use (let alone tell them what to use, or bring my own oil). For the last several years, or more, I've been taking my cars back to the dealer (Hyundai) for $25 oil changes (sometimes includes a car wash or tire rotation). I don't know what brand or blend oil they use. I doubt it's synthetic at that price.

Somehow, with all this ignorance of mine about oil, over the many hundreds of thousands of miles I've driven, I've never, ever, had an oil related problem with my engine.

Am I just $**t lucky? Or are many people, in the too many oil threads in this forum, just over specking/thinking their oil needs? I think so.

Before the flames start coming my way, keep in mind I'm just talking about the family car. I'm not talking about a high performance car, hot rod, race car, dragster, air plane, rocket, missile, space ship, etc.

As Esso use to say, "Happy Motoring". :)
John
p.s. Cheers, I use to work in an Esso gas station back in the early 60s.
 
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