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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok.. So, I'll start off with the history..

Back in July some time I went out to my Accent (00' 1.5L) to go to work and it didn't want to turn over. Normally it's quick to start. So I turned off the A/C and it started right up. I went about my way. The next day, same thing happened. I thought it might be a camshaft position sensor, figured I'd be ok and headed to work. Got about 2 miles from the house and it died. So I pull over and try to start, no dice. Can't get it to start to save my life. We have it towed to the house and park it.

This happened about 3 days before we closed on a new house, and having other cars we decided this needed to stay on the back burner.

About a month later, I do some troubleshooting (not enough) and decide that the fuel pump is bad. I don't hear it coming on when I try to start the car. So, I replaced it. Turn the key, still no noise from the fuel pump. WTH...

So, I leave it sitting for a couple of more months. During this time I've done more research than I care to admit regarding this car. I find out there's a Fuel Pump Check under the hood. Mind you, I checked all relays/fuses before replacing the fuel pump. But didn't thing to test the fuel pump check. My loss there.

So, Saturday was a nice day I spent about 5 hours with my father and brother-in-law working on the car. First thing we do is Put 12v to it and the fuel pump comes right to life. So, we know it's not the fuel pump. Check the connections with a multimeter, we have voltage where we should and grounds where we should. So relay is working, wires are good. Finally we find a schematic of the fuel system and go hunting for the MFI (Engine) Control Relay. Well, I don't know how it happened since it's inside the car, but when we pulled it, it was rusty as all get out. We replaced it and the car still didn't want to start. Checked for fuel pressure at the rail, yup, we got fuel. So we sprayed some starter fluid into the intake and it finally fired up and ran. But it's not running how it ran when it died on me back in July. This car has been extremely reliable until this point. It's not a race car, but it will do 55-60 comfortably and get 38mpg doing it. Well, after it starts it's idling very rough, surging from 500-1500 rpm. We let it run for about 30 minutes and it continues to surge the entire time but doesn't stall. So I take it out for a test drive, as long as I only give it partial throttle 10-15% it gets up to speed in an acceptable amount of time. But anything more than that and it bogs down and will not accelerate. So I drive it home and park it.

The next day, I change the spark plugs, fill it up with some fresh gas, top off all the fluids and throw some Lucas fuel treatment into the tank. It started much better, but still surges, just not as badly as before. And the acceleration problem remains. I'm going to replace the wires next and see how things go and I've also ordered a new MAF and some other goodies. Oh, car has 133,000 miles on it. I do not know if the timing belt was ever changed and nobody in my family remembers if it was done either. I'm leaning towards being on borrowed time and the timing kit is one of the goodies mentioned. So, I've got a busy weekend coming up. But, I have to get this car back on the road so that my wife who is now commuting 140miles round trip per day can save some money on gas. Any help/guidance would be appreciated!

TIA!

eGo
 

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the first guidance i want to offer is skip the lucastrash or any other additives. they are not a wrench in a can and do not fix problems that already exist.

before ordering more parts, its time to find the root cause of your problem. you've done well so far and i like how you and your family have done a lot of good testing.

first and foremost you must have trouble codes stored in your ECU. i don't see how you don't at this point. invest in a code reader (even a cheap one!) or borrow one, whatever works for you.

its sounding like a misfire to me....any more description you can give would help. would love to hear how its behaving when you're trying to start, all you've said is that it wouldn't start. is starting still an issue?

IF this is misfires (still unsure, but sounding so) the diagnosis is rather simple:
F.A.S. (Fuel, Air, Spark). same goes for starting generally.

i think you've tested the fuel well. but just for fun, here's another way to test that you might find easier next time on a no-start. disconnect all plug wires. turn the engine over a couple times and pull each plug. check for wet fuel on the plug.

next question is are injectors firing correctly. a mechanic's stethoscope will let you hear them snapping quite loudly. if one isn't sounding like the rest, i'd pull and investigate.

fuel pressure, a test gauge will show any problems there....although i think you've just about covered that. the gauge is hooked up with a T fitting at the fuel rail.

air is simple for the most part. check for blockages in intake, and even exhaust too. as unusual as it is a blocked cat will cause you no end of trouble. check for any air leaks, bad vacuum hoses. not sure about the 1.5L, but the 1.6 has a problem with the intake manifold gasket. the original factory one will fail causing misfires and EVAP problems. hyundai revised it long ago, was a $32 part at the stealership for me. test is easy, some of that starter fluid you have will find a leak in no time. once it gets sucked in with engine idling the RPM's will pick up momentarily.

an alternative is argon gas if anyone you know is a welder. it'll even out that bad idle.

spark is pretty easy. replace plugs if worn obviously. wires i like to check first, but replace if you want since its a wear item. checking is simple. with car at idle you're using a plug test light. just hold it up to the wire, i got one for $3. flashes when the coil sends a pulse. it should be pretty evident if the coil isn't firing correctly every time. check them for cracks as well.

any sensors should come up with the code scanner. any sensor that you think might get exposed to the engine intake and carbon buildup is worth a visual check for blockage. example, i'd check a MAP sensor on the intake manifold. a coolant temp sensor is kind of a waste of time :p

that should get you on the right track. once you have codes, feel free to ask for more info.

oh and your timing belt is fine. if it broke you'd know by now. blown engine :D usually a bent valve or two at the very least. for that reason, its worth replacing if you're not sure. i recommend the 2 pullies that are there as well - but hey its your car ;)
 

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I also replaced the fuel filter already.
Do what zero said and scan it for codes, there's more than likely something stored. It also sounds like a throttle position sensor malfunction. I've seen them malfunction by not allowing the car to start, or just cut off without setting codes. I had to watch the current data to see the malfunction.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
The Laundry List.. heh

the first guidance i want to offer is skip the lucastrash or any other additives. they are not a wrench in a can and do not fix problems that already exist.
I do normally stay away from this stuff, but thought the injectors might be gummed up a little after sitting so long and that the lucas might help.

first and foremost you must have trouble codes stored in your ECU.
Here are the codes I pulled originally before clearing them (All P codes) : 0422, 0133, 0562, 0201, 0202, 0203, 0204, 1553, 1403, 0141, 0444, 0135

After I cleared the codes the only one that has returned is 0562.

would love to hear how its behaving when you're trying to start, all you've said is that it wouldn't start. is starting still an issue?
It starts right up now, and it still hunts a little while idling, but nowhere near as much as before.

IF this is misfires (still unsure, but sounding so) the diagnosis is rather simple:
F.A.S. (Fuel, Air, Spark). same goes for starting generally.
It's definitely got a misfire from what I can tell and I'll listen to the injectors this weekend and see what I can find out.

i think you've tested the fuel well. but just for fun, here's another way to test that you might find easier next time on a no-start. disconnect all plug wires. turn the engine over a couple times and pull each plug. check for wet fuel on the plug.
I will also try this, this weekend.

fuel pressure, a test gauge will show any problems there....although i think you've just about covered that. the gauge is hooked up with a T fitting at the fuel rail.
I'll look into picking one of these up, can't hurt to have one with all of the cars I have. haha

air is simple for the most part. check for blockages in intake, and even exhaust too. as unusual as it is a blocked cat will cause you no end of trouble. check for any air leaks, bad vacuum hoses. not sure about the 1.5L, but the 1.6 has a problem with the intake manifold gasket. the original factory one will fail causing misfires and EVAP problems. hyundai revised it long ago, was a $32 part at the stealership for me. test is easy, some of that starter fluid you have will find a leak in no time. once it gets sucked in with engine idling the RPM's will pick up momentarily.
I didn't think to check for intake leaks while I had the starter fluid out, but that's a good point and something else to check out.

spark is pretty easy. replace plugs if worn obviously. wires i like to check first, but replace if you want since its a wear item. checking is simple. with car at idle you're using a plug test light. just hold it up to the wire, i got one for $3. flashes when the coil sends a pulse. it should be pretty evident if the coil isn't firing correctly every time. check them for cracks as well.
I replaced all four plugs this past weekend and saw some mild improvement. The #2 cylinder plug looked like somebody dragged it through the mud. the others weren't too bad.

any sensors should come up with the code scanner. any sensor that you think might get exposed to the engine intake and carbon buildup is worth a visual check for blockage. example, i'd check a MAP sensor on the intake manifold. a coolant temp sensor is kind of a waste of time :p
I had planned on cleaning/replacing the MAF sensor this weekend if needed. Could a bad/dirty MAF cause the misfires?

oh and your timing belt is fine. if it broke you'd know by now. blown engine :D usually a bent valve or two at the very least. for that reason, its worth replacing if you're not sure. i recommend the 2 pullies that are there as well - but hey its your car ;)
Yes, I'll pick up the whole timing belt kit. No sense in not replacing those things while I'm that far into it.

Thanks for chiming in and hopefully the codes will help shed a little light on things.

eGo
 

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wow thats a lot of codes....but there's good news from this. they all point to one thing: an electrical problem. your ECU is losing power and my guess is the main ecu relay.

and no cleaning the MAF won't help a thing ;)

what tipped me off was the codes for low system voltage and the o2 sensor failures - i've had this problem myself, except just caused problems starting in cold damp weather. once started i was fine.

if you look up the electrical schematics you'll find that there are 3 things and 3 things alone powered off the main relay: the ECU and the o2 sensor heaters. there's no way you're going to kill 2 o2 sensors at the same time. the chances of that are pretty much nothing. so therefore they are not getting power.

the rest of the codes seem to jive with this theory as well. all report circuit open on various sensors and your injectors. well there's no way you can have ALL of that dead. loss of power to them all simultaneously is very possible though.

my guess is that relay and failing that the ECU itself may be faulty. if you know how, you should be able to test the relay by closing it using battery power and then using a multimeter to test resistance across the gate. if you're not familiar with this, this would be one of the few times i would just replace the thing since its not expensive. alternatively you could try swapping relays with something like the horn that is not crucial to the engine functioning.

for your reference here's a description of all the trouble codes. if you read up on them all you'll see the common link i'm seeing here that points me to electrical.

you may have to do some testing to narrow this down, but that should get you started.

P0562 Hyundai System Voltage Low OBDII Engine Light Trouble Code | Engine-Codes.com
P0133 Hyundai O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response Bank 1 Sensor 1 OBDII Engine Light Trouble Code | Engine-Codes.com
P0135 Hyundai O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 1 OBDII Engine Light Trouble Code | Engine-Codes.com
P0444 Hyundai Evaporative Emission System-Purge Control Valve Circuit Open OBDII Engine Light Trouble Code | Engine-Codes.com
P0141 Hyundai HO2S Heater Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 2 OBDII Engine Light Trouble Code | Engine-Codes.com
P1403 Hyundai DMTL Valve Circuit OBDII Engine Light Trouble Code | Engine-Codes.com
P1553 Hyundai Idle Speed Act.(Close) - Open OBDII Engine Light Trouble Code | Engine-Codes.com
P0203 Hyundai Injector Circuit Open- Cylinder 3 OBDII Engine Light Trouble Code | Engine-Codes.com
P0204 Hyundai Injector Circuit Open- Cylinder 4 OBDII Engine Light Trouble Code | Engine-Codes.com
P0562 Charging System Voltage Low OBDII Engine Light Trouble Code | Engine-Codes.com
P0202 Hyundai Injector Circuit Open- Cylinder 2 OBDII Engine Light Trouble Code | Engine-Codes.com
P0201 Hyundai Injector Circuit Open- Cylinder 1 OBDII Engine Light Trouble Code | Engine-Codes.com
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
wow thats a lot of codes....but there's good news from this. they all point to one thing: an electrical problem. your ECU is losing power and my guess is the main ecu relay.
Is this the 5 point relay that's mounted to the side of the car under the dash? If so, we replaced that one already and that is when we finally got the car started. If not, I'll dig under the hood and look for other relays that are the same as the horn relay and swap them out and see how things go. I can also get my father to test them this weekend, if need be. That thing was rusted to **** and back. No idea how the water got into it though. Just to recap on what's been done (without the story involved)..

Replaced :

Fuel Filter,
Fuel Pump,
MFI Engine Control Relay
Spark Plugs

This weekends line up, provided the relay doesn't resolve the issue:

Replace Plug Wires - Under warranty
Check Fuel Injectors
Check for Intake Leaks

Thanks again for your input! Hopefully you're talking about a different relay and I can locate it and swap it out and things run normally. That would make my weekend!

eGo
 

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pretty sure its under the hood...sorry its been a while and i just got home from a night shift.

the best way to check a relay is to swap with a known good one if possible. i have had relays that appear to be good when testing but occasionally fail. never seem to fail when you test them:p

its also possible you have a wiring issue somewhere. you might be tracing some wires out with a multimeter...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok.. So, I've gone through every relay in this car with no joy.. I've replaced any relay that even looked funny with a new one. Still, the car doesn't want to accelerate and hunts while idling. This is really driving me crazy.. I tested for vacuum leaks and found nothing. I also replaced the MAF just to see and still no change. If anybody has any other ideas, they'd be greatly appreciated.

eGo
 

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MAP sensor replacement pointless as predicted....still you have not really checked the ignition system. considering what has been checked already, i would next check engine compression and the coilpacks. some parts stores can check these for you on a test bench.

still only the one code to go on now that everything has been cleared?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
MAP sensor replacement pointless as predicted....still you have not really checked the ignition system. considering what has been checked already, i would next check engine compression and the coilpacks. some parts stores can check these for you on a test bench.

still only the one code to go on now that everything has been cleared?
Yep, your prediction was correct, I'm a glutton for punishment some times. Right after I posted this, the Hyundai gods smiled down upon me.. I think/hope. I did a search for 2000 accent bad coil and it took me to a guys youtube channel where he had a video of his car doing the EXACT same thing that mine is doing. He replaced the coil, no dice, then he replaced the plugs and wires and all his problems went away.. I don't know why it took me so long to find this video, but maybe it will help. Sooooooo, since my plug wires are under warranty and the spark plugs are cheap I'm going to try that tomorrow before I spend upwards of $100 on the coil. But that will be my next stop if the new wires don't resolve the issue. Zero, I do thank you for all of your time and input in regards to this matter. I can tell you're a wealth of information and a valuable resource to these forums. Hopefully I'll have some good news tomorrow afternoon, but good or bad, I'll have news. :)

eGo
 

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you're quite welcome ;)

hope it works out for you, and i agree there is nothing wrong with replacing plugs and wires. those are parts that are going to wear out probably several times in the life of the car anyways. that and they're relatively cheap.

hope i don't sound like my ego is overinflated here, but what i really try to get across here is use a process of elimination, testing and then come up with a diagnosis before doing anything. all too often i see someone having problems and they will blindly replace parts (even common to fail parts), throw additives into the fuel, etc. and still be right back where they started. that's not how to fix a car.

i really don't care about being right or wrong. being wrong is how you learn more and become better. i just have fun with the diagnosis part. :)

best of luck and let us know what happens!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ok. Replaced the plug wires and the miss is gone. So that's great, but it is still severely underpowered. If I rev the engine it gets up to a little over 3k and hovers there, it doesn't miss, just doesn't go any higher. When doing this I start to get smoke/exhaust under the hood. So, I'm thinking this is being caused by the back pressure of a clogged cat. Is this a valid assumption? Any easy way to verify if it's a clogged cat? Thanks again!

eGo
 

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Ok. Replaced the plug wires and the miss is gone. So that's great, but it is still severely underpowered. If I rev the engine it gets up to a little over 3k and hovers there, it doesn't miss, just doesn't go any higher. When doing this I start to get smoke/exhaust under the hood. So, I'm thinking this is being caused by the back pressure of a clogged cat. Is this a valid assumption? Any easy way to verify if it's a clogged cat? Thanks again!

eGo
Sounds like you're correct about the clogged cat. You could always take it off and try real quick.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
can u post a link on that video?
I'm not at my computer, but google "Diagnose my Hyundai 2" and that should get you what you want.

Sounds like you're correct about the clogged cat. You could always take it off and try real quick.
I've been trying to find a link to instructions for this. But I guess I'm just going to have to go at it the old fashioned way. I'm assuming it's just the bolts at the exhaust manifold and flex pipe?

Thanks!

eGo
 

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I'm not at my computer, but google "Diagnose my Hyundai 2" and that should get you what you want.



I've been trying to find a link to instructions for this. But I guess I'm just going to have to go at it the old fashioned way. I'm assuming it's just the bolts at the exhaust manifold and flex pipe?

Thanks!

eGo
You got it! Don't quite rem, but may be a little tricky around the power steering pump. Some manifolds can worm out without removing the p/s pump, some you need to remove. Still not that big of a deal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Wellllllll.... I replaced the catalytic converter/exhaust manifold today.. And guess what.. IT'S STILL BROKEN!! GAH! lol Driving me nuts.. I've attached a clip of what it sounds like..

http://s79.photobucket.com/user/egocentronix/media/WayloWoes_zps974c5f80.mp4.html

Around the 24 second mark you'll see the tach go to about 3500rpm and stop.. I floored it here and that's all it does. So, recap.. Still absolutely NO power and it bogs when you floor it.. I'm at a loss.. I'm probably just going to take it to the shop this week.. *sigh* Unless somebody knows what else could be the issue. I'm tired of poking this thing with a stick and would like to be able to say it's running lol.. But I do get a lot of satisfaction from being able to fix my own vehicles most of the time.. I just wish this one hadn't gotten the better of me.. Oh, and the Parking Brake light stays on, the switch is broken.. ;)

eGo
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Also, I pulled the codes again.. Just to see if they could spark any ideas..

P0562 - Still? Really?
P1403 - Bad Evap Canister (This one is new, could this possibly cause my problems?)
P0444 - More Evap Stuff?
P0135 - 02 Sensor (I forgot to plug it in when I took it for a test drive, pretty sure that's why this one flipped)
P1402 - Evap?
P0134 - See forgot to plug in o2 above...
P0136 - Pissed off about o2 1 being unplugged?

So, after seeing these, is it possible my ECM is pissed off or got wet just like the 5 pin relay under the dash from water intrusion (P0562)? Would the other EVAP codes cause my car to run like crap? If so, where should I start with the replacement on those items?

TIA!

eGo
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Well, it's been about 8 months.. I decided to drive the car today, still a slug.. I was doing some more research and came across another possibility.. Any chance (I know it's not throwing a code for it) that this could be a faulty crank/camshaft position sensor? Just curious.. Any opinions would be appreciated..

eGo
 
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