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Discussion Starter #1
My son installed a new battery in our 2007 Hyundai Sonata GLS 4 cylinder. As he was putting the positive wire on the battery terminal it sparked, the horn blew, and he immediately removed the wire. Upon inspecting it closer, I found that he had put the battery in backwards and touched the positive cable to the negative post of the battery. He had already fastened the negative cable to the positive post on the battery prior to this. After we switched the battery around and connected it properly, the car started fine, but there were many things not working properly. I checked all the fuses and replaced the ones that were blown including the main 150 Amp fuse in the engine compartment fuse panel. Now everything is working fine with the exception of the Brake / ESC / ABS lights all being on constantly and the gear selector lever for the automatic transmission will not move out of the Park position without pressing the little button underneath the plastic panel near the base of the shifter.

I have read every post in reference to this on this forum and many others without a solution to this problem. If anyone has any ideas how to diagnose this problem further that would be good. If you know a solution to this problem that would be great!

Ready, set, go.
Let's figure this out and post the solution for others with the same issue and thanks for your help.:auto:
 

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My son installed a new battery in our 2007 Hyundai Sonata GLS 4 cylinder. As he was putting the positive wire on the battery terminal it sparked, the horn blew, and he immediately removed the wire. Upon inspecting it closer, I found that he had put the battery in backwards and touched the positive cable to the negative post of the battery. He had already fastened the negative cable to the positive post on the battery prior to this. After we switched the battery around and connected it properly, the car started fine, but there were many things not working properly. I checked all the fuses and replaced the ones that were blown including the main 150 Amp fuse in the engine compartment fuse panel. Now everything is working fine with the exception of the Brake / ESC / ABS lights all being on constantly and the gear selector lever for the automatic transmission will not move out of the Park position without pressing the little button underneath the plastic panel near the base of the shifter.

I have read every post in reference to this on this forum and many others without a solution to this problem. If anyone has any ideas how to diagnose this problem further that would be good. If you know a solution to this problem that would be great!

Ready, set, go.
Let's figure this out and post the solution for others with the same issue and thanks for your help.:auto:
Since you have trouble shifting out of park without overriding it, I suspect you don't have brake lights. Check to see if they aren't working, then troubleshoot the missing brake light issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Update-getting closer

Sorry for the long pause in between posts. The brake lights were working when I tested them. I took the car for a drive after reading another post that the lights may go off after driving for a while. Sure enough, they did after about ten miles, but when I got back into the driveway and went to put the car back in Park, the shift lever would not go back into Park. I had to push the little button again to get it into Park. I ordered another brake switch and put it in the car and the shift lever will not go out of Park still. Any ideas? Thanks.
 

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Well, for one thing, next time your son installs a new battery, right or wrong, the negative cable goes on last.

Did you thoroughly check the fuses? Have another look, and meter them if you have to. Also check the grounds.

A circuit will always look for ground, even if it has to go through another circuit to get there.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Old's Cool, thanks for the reply. I did check all the fuses both inside the car and under the hood with a multimeter and replaced about five blown fuses including the 150 amp main fuse. All the fuses are good now. I was curious if there is a solenoid that may be bad perhaps under the shift lever. I couldn't find anything about that. If there is one I would like to find it and test it. Any thoughts?
 

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Old's Cool, thanks for the reply. I did check all the fuses both inside the car and under the hood with a multimeter and replaced about five blown fuses including the 150 amp main fuse. All the fuses are good now. I was curious if there is a solenoid that may be bad perhaps under the shift lever. I couldn't find anything about that. If there is one I would like to find it and test it. Any thoughts?

Yeah, but that wouldn't have a bearing on the lights.

I don' call myself "Old's Cool" fer nuthin'. This Body Control Module and CANBUS aren't in my lexicon. Hopefully someone more versed in these can chime in and provide more insight. But "BCM" was the next thing I thought of. Let's see if someone concurs.

Seems to me there was someone else a while ago that did the same thing. See if you can search the topics and find it. IIRC, he was having similar issues...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I was thinking the same thing after a check of the solenoid. I was hoping not to have fried the BCM. Just did a search and I can get a guaranteed used one relatively cheap on ebay. I may give it a shot if I don't hear any other advice on here. Thanks again.
 

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To test a solenoid you need to use a voltmeter set on ohms. It will either show resistance or be open. You should also at that time check to see that there is 12v+ and a ground there when needed.
 

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I was hoping not to have fried the BCM.
There isn't any BCM involvement in the shift lock control circuit so I don't think you need to worry about a BCM.

Test procedure for your fault here -> Hyundai wont leave park

It tells you to check the voltages on terminals 4, 5 & 6 of the shift lock control module harness connector (located behind the heater controls on the dash).
The voltage on terminal 4 comes from the brake pedal switch and should show 12V with the pedal released and 0V with the pedal pressed.
The voltages on terminals 5 & 6 come from the shift lock and key lock solenoids. To test the solenoids simply ground those terminals and you should hear the solenoids operating. You should be able to move the shifter with terminal 5 connected to ground.
 

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I did the same to my 2001 Elantra. Blew out the main 150 amp fuse which is locked in with nuts and bolts.
Blew the radio and a bunch of fuses. What exactly are your issues? Maybe someone can help.
 

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I have the exact same issues as the original poster. I was able to fix the AC and radio issues by swapping fuses out, however i still cant solve the shifting issue.

Its stuck in park, i can by pass the issue, but its not a permanent fix.
 

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Also forgot to add, I did swap out the brake light switch by the pedals. Still experiencing the same issue. Vehicle does start.
 

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I did swap out the brake light switch by the pedals. Still experiencing the same issue.
Did you check to see if there was voltage being supplied to the brake switch? There should be two terminals on the switch connector showing 12V with the ignition on and the switch disconnected.

And can you tell us what car we're working on? Is it a 2007 Sonata like the OP had?
 

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Did you check to see if there was voltage being supplied to the brake switch? There should be two terminals on the switch connector showing 12V with the ignition on and the switch disconnected.

And can you tell us what car we're working on? Is it a 2007 Sonata like the OP had?
I will check today after work, Thank you. It's a 2006.
 

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The car has running lights and working break lights. They do get brighter when the break pedal is pressed when the car is on and when its running.
 
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