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Hi, I've been having the same problem with my 2012 Elantra GLS for a couple of years now, and the dealer doesn't seem to want to do anything unless the OBD throws a code (which it still hasn't). BTW, I am the second owner, so I'm out of manufacturer warranty, but I did buy an extended warranty when I bought the car through a third-party. Currently at approx. 70k miles, and maintained regularly as expected.

The problem is a strange one - to me, at least - so I'll try to be as specific as I can.

Basically, from a cold start...say, first start of the day, my car will start up fine. All is normal, turn the ignition and the engine fires right up. If I drive the car for a while and park and turn it off and then start it back up *within around 1-1.5 or 2 hours*, it will also start right up as soon as the ignition is turned.

The problem is when it's been started up for the day in the morning, or whenever it may be, driven, and then parked and turned off for longer than that...3 hours, 4 hours, whatever it may be. In that case, it may take it anywhere from 2-4 seconds for it to finally fire up. The engine will rev the usual (bu-bu-bu-bu) like it is trying to start up, and it may also make a strange kind of, somewhat but not terribly concerning, knock sound right before it fires (not all the time).

Also, this rarely happens during the cold months, and always is much more often when it's a very hot day. Could this be some strange fuel injection issue, somehow? Would the hot weather exacerbate it somehow? When I think it's going to happen, I usually turn the ignition to 'on' to try to prime the fuel pump, just to see if it might help it, but it still does it most of the time. I should also add that it has never NOT started up. It does always start, I just am concerned about these hesitations getting worse.

If anybody has any ideas what this sounds like, I'd really appreciate it. Don't really wanna be shafted by some shop that wants to tear apart everything just to charge me for things that weren't actually wrong because I don't know what it actually is.

Thanks a lot!
 

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Drives : Nissan NV200 Flies : Rans S6ES
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Could this be some strange fuel injection issue, somehow?
Just guessing but it sounds like it might be a problem with the fuel tank evap system. Fuel vapour might be leaking into the inlet causing an over rich mixture. I'd guess that would be worse in warmer weather.

Have you tried pressing on the throttle pedal when you have trouble starting to allow more air to enter the inlet which should balance out the air:fuel mixture. It might be worth removing the purge control valve and check that it isn't leaking too.
 

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My starter ruined the battery at first i drove car it was good came home shut it off came out later would not start after buying inhibiotor switch which did not need got a starter still no start even jumping starter elantra has to have 13 .1 volts to start wentvtobwalmarts got batteey now new starter car works great
 

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It's the fuel pump. A crank and hesitation to start is the fuel pump while the no-click-no-start is the inhibitor switch. I chased this same issue around the moon and back and did the following before finally submitting to the fuel pump. I almost replaced the crankshaft position sensor but smarter minds than I encouraged me not to do so.

- Replaced battery
- Cleaned grounds
- Replaced spark plugs
- Replaced ignition coils

I replaced the fuel pump three months ago and the problem is GONE. None of the other "fixes" (some were scheduled maintenance items I hoped might fix the problem) solved it for more than a few days, if at all. What happens is the cheap plastic inside the fuel pump cracks and this allows the pressure in the line to be relieved as soon as the car is shut off. As there is no fuel in the line, the engine stumbles to start.

To test if it's your fuel pump, park the car for the 3-4 hours (same time frame I noticed) and turn the key to 'ON' but don't start the engine for about three to four seconds. If it turns over right away once you turn it to 'START' after this waiting period, it's the pump. Part will run you about $275 online and anyone mechanically competent can swap it out in an hour and a half or so.
 
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