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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm starting a new thread on this (as an offshoot from https://www.hyundai-forums.com/threads/android-auto-and-carplay-with-wi-fi.658386/) as this issue has nothing to do with Android Auto or CarPlay)

A couple of weeks ago I bought a Pioneer HU with AA/CarPlay and a wiring harness from Crutchfield:



When connected up and configured, the volume from the car's speakers is barely audible. I have to turn the volume on the new HU to max to hear anything at all, and I wouldn't be able to hear it at all while driving. I've tried both speaker modes: Standard and Network

I've ruled out the harness as the problem. The speaker output wires go directly to the car's connector and the impedance is 0 Ohms.

So, my question is, what's going on between the car's connector in the HU aperture and the speakers in the doors? I've looked for an amp under the passenger seat and behind the trim in the trunk and, so far, haven't found anything.

As far as I know, it's a stock 2012 Elantra GLS with an OEM non-nav HU. I even put the old HU back in to check the speakers were still working normally and they were. The car was bought new by Other AstroKat's mom and hasn't had any aftermarket mods.

Thoughts, and what to look for or try next? Thanks!
 

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I've ruled out the harness as the problem. The speaker output wires go directly to the car's connector and the impedance is 0 Ohms.
What resistance do you get if you disconnect the HU and connect your Ohmmeter across the speaker + & - terminals on the HU connector?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Good point! I just checked and it's around 3.9 for all of them. I'm about at my limit of "car stereo" knowledge - the last time I did this was before smartphones had been invented but 4 Ohms for a car speaker seems normal to me.

Earlier today, out of curiosity, I hooked up an old midi unit speaker I had, gathering dust on a shelf (70W, 6 Ohm) to the new HU and got the same result - no volume until I cranked it to max, and then barely audible.

I hadn't planned on having to pop door panels, etc. otherwise I would test it with one of the car's speakers. It looked like the Pioneer HU with the Elantra harness from Crutchfield would be relatively Plug & Play...
 

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4 Ohms for a car speaker seems normal to me.
Yeah, sounds good.

AstroKats said:
Earlier today, out of curiosity, I hooked up an old midi unit speaker I had, gathering dust on a shelf (70W, 6 Ohm) to the new HU and got the same result - no volume until I cranked it to max, and then barely audible.
That kinda suggests the problem is with the HU rather than the car. To be sure of that I suggest disconnecting everything except power, ground and your midi's speaker. If there is still no sound you can feel pretty confident the unit is faulty....assuming your connecting the speaker to the correct two wires on the HU, of course.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you! That's where I was heading with Crutchfield support. It's possible that I made a stupid mistake but the documentation for the HU is pretty clear. The custom harness, less so, but I've confirmed that it's just straight through to the car's speaker wires.

Before I asked them to replace the unit, I wanted to check every option. It's not often, these days, that I receive an electronic item from a reputable manufacturer that has a fault...
 

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you might try this site:


ima kinda persona non grata there. one of the top posters is asd255, i think he is in russia. he sells bootleg map updates on ebay, and i tried to get them to load, but i could not. it kinda went downhill from there. dont mention my name, or you wont get a good seat
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Update: Crutchfield said they'll send a replacement and I asked if they could test it with a 4 Ohm speaker before shipping it and they will! It would suck if I got another one with the same issue. It might also highlight an issue with their harness if that's the problem.

I've been really impressed with their customer service and tech support. It's why I bought from them, having read some posts on other sites.
 

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Update: Crutchfield said they'll send a replacement and I asked if they could test it with a 4 Ohm speaker before shipping it and they will! It would suck if I got another one with the same issue. It might also highlight an issue with their harness if that's the problem.

I've been really impressed with their customer service and tech support. It's why I bought from them, having read some posts on other sites.
yup. same here. i know the harness/alltheothercrap can be bought online cheaper, but service cannot. when i had the swc module problem, they sent me a new one(3 times), with a ppd call tag. i also went thru a new wiring harness, also ppd by them. it is a HUGE plus to call them, and have someone actually answer. AND, get this. they aint in india or nigeria/phillippines. they is in the usa, and speak usa. the 4400nex deal i got was crutchfield, the radio/harness/module/factplate, plus a killer rebate. better than a sharp stick in the eye!
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Thank you! That's where I was heading with Crutchfield support. It's possible that I made a stupid mistake but the documentation for the HU is pretty clear. The custom harness, less so, but I've confirmed that it's just straight through to the car's speaker wires.

Before I asked them to replace the unit, I wanted to check every option. It's not often, these days, that I receive an electronic item from a reputable manufacturer that has a fault...
Well, it turns out it was just a stupid mistake, LOL! The last time I swapped a "stereo" was on a '74 Triumph Spitfire LONG before Android Auto, and probably while the founders of Google were still in kindergarten... 😸

Almost everything is working now, including the backup cam. All I'm missing is the connection to dim the display when the headlights are on. I got the more expensive harness from Crutchfield with the RadioPRO interface (which gets it's signals from the OBDII) but I'm thinking of ditching it for various reasons. There's not much space for an extra piece of kit and all the cables and connectors, and it's just another thing to go wrong that will require pulling all the trim off again. I thought I needed it for things like the USB port, aux, reverse sensor, headlights, etc. However, the car's USB port doesn't work with my Pixel and the aux doesn't work without power from the associated USB. The reverse cam kit (also from Crutchfield) works fine from the reversing lights +ve feed, so I'm only left with the lighting sensor (no steering wheel volume controls on mine).

So, the question: Is there a wire I can tap into, near the HU, that's energized when the headlights come on?

Thanks in advance!
 

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So, the question: Is there a wire I can tap into, near the HU, that's energized when the headlights come on?
There should be an illumination wire on one of the harness connectors of the original HU.
There are actually normally two illumination wires on Hyundai cars, one positive and one negative. Aftermarket HUs usually only need to be connected to the positive wire, which has +12V when the side/tail lamps are switched on.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
There should be an illumination wire on one of the harness connectors of the original HU.
There are actually normally two illumination wires on Hyundai cars, one positive and one negative. Aftermarket HUs usually only need to be connected to the positive wire, which has +12V when the side/tail lamps are switched on.
I saw the snip below on a wiring diagram, which is consistent with what you've posted, thank you! I'm wary of hooking up random wires that might blow something... 😸

Illumination (+)
B8​
BU
Dimmer (-)
B17​
GY
 

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i used double sided sticky tape on the module, and it went on the defrost duct, up high. you gotta clean the plastic duct with alcohol, and use generous amount of tape. on the obd2 port, i used unsoldered ends from an aftermarket obd2 port plug, and just plug in the 2 wires. they come out once a year when i get the state inspection done. on the other car, i spliced into the harness using vampire clips, and it was a real pain to do. i think the obd2 connections tell the radio when the car is moving, or some functions will not work. on the 8200nex, they are needed for nav.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thank you @AUTOSPARK - the +ve worked (the blue wire on B8), connected to the "illumination" input on the new Pioneer HU. I tested the line before I hooked it up and it went from +0.3V with the lights off to the battery voltage with the lights on (around +12.3V in ACC without the engine running). It works with the HU's screens and also Android Auto (which switches to night mode with a black background for Google Maps, etc.) Haven't tested CarPlay yet.

@hochiinn, I guess the inspections are a reason NOT to have anything wired into the OBDII... 😸

So, I now have everything that I need directly wired into the car. Turns out the much more expensive Crutchfield harness with the RadioPRO interface wasn't necessary but I didn't know that when I ordered it. No steering wheel volume controls on our '12 GLS.

Thanks everyone for the help. I hope this is useful to others who want to do the same. I just went for my first long drive since getting everything working and love having AA in the Elantra! 😸
 
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