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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I made an earlier post when I installed a Scan Gauge to give me a read out of water/coolant temperature as the temperature gauge has been deleted from current Elantras. I was also seeking information on removing the facia panel,hopefully this post will provide this. Some information will be duplicated from the previous post.
When the Scan Gauge was first installed the cable was bought over the front of the facia as a temporary measure until I could cut a hole in the back of the pocket below the radio to take the cable out the back, so it was concealed behind the dashboard.
Photo 1

I did consider cutting a hole in the back of the pocket while in place but considered this risky not knowing what cables etc were behind, so the decision to remove the facia.

Facia removal is a simple operation the information is on the Hyundai Service Website (under Shop) this basically is to work a suitable tool in behind the sides of the facia and pull it off. The Hyundai removal tool can be seen on the same website under Tools and Equipment
Photo 2

I made up a similar removal tool, in hindsight this tool could be much simpler for occasional use. Will detail this later.

Photo 3

I started removal on the top right corner, the tool laid flat on the facia and the curved end worked in under the facia by this time the tool was perpendicular as shown.A steady pull will hear and feel the facia move, I estimated the pull would not exceed 5kg / 10 lbs. The bottom right eased out next followed by the same procedure on the left side.
In my case the facia was still held on the bottom about the middle, by this time I could get a finger grip each each side at the top and by working down with a steady pull the facia came free.
The clock and hazard switch can now be unplugged, the latter has a locking clip to disengage.
No doubt the facia could be prised off with a screwdriver as suggested by the local Hyundai dealer, as this would mean levering on the crash pad (and not a direct pull as above) suitable protection on the crash would be required.I would suggest more than a layer of tape.

Photo 4

In this view the facia retaining sockets can be seen, four top and bottom. The four screws retaining the radio are now visible as are the two screws for the crash pad upper tray.

Photo 5

Facia Removed This shows four retaining clips at the top but only two of four on the bottom, more info. next photo.
I removed the pocket below the radio opening to cut the required hole for the Scan gauge cable.
At this stage I fed an insulated draw wire down under the radio to come out under the dashboard and used this to pull the Scan Gauge cable back up. On reassembly this cable was fed into the pocket and now out of sight.

Photo 6

This shows a bottom corner of the facia panel, the two center clips can be seen while the outer pedestal can be seen damaged and no clip, same both ends. I can only conclude there was a misalignment problem in the factory and the clips left off and the facia "made" to fit.
Would be interesting to hear if any members have noted this ??

Photo 7

Reassembly no problem, clock and hazard switch reconnected and the facia clicked back into place, this was quite firm despite the two missing clips on the bottom. Scan Gauge reconnected using the alternative socket on the rear this time,
as the pocket is tapered the instrument wedges into place nicely.

Photo 8

A night shot of the finished facia. The blue background lighting from a choice of sixty three is a perfect match for the existing Hyundai blue. May not look so in the photo possibly because a flash was used.
Scan Gauge has three functions (1) Scan Tool - Retrieve trouble codes and clear "Check Engine" light.
(2) Trip Computer (3) Digital Gauges.- A choice of twelve of which four can be displayed on the panel.
I have chosen Digital Gauges for normal display. Considering an indication of water temperature started this quest I have placed it on the top left of the panel - cWT, going clockwise- VLT (Battery Voltage) - LHK (Litres / 100k)- TPS (Throttle Position)
The LHK is showing 9999 litres, as the car is stationary and the instrument can only display four digits this is as close as it can get to infinity. Once the car moves the actual reading is displayed.

Photo 9

This shows a simple tool for home use, most probably better than a screwdriver.
The reverse curve on the end is to angle the blade up and makes it easier to insert the curved tip of the tool in and under the edge of the facia.
I formed this curve by using the same size metal rod ( 8mm / 5/16") and bent the blade back about 45deg.
A good side view can be seen in Photo 4 where a longer sweeping curve has been used, on the original tool.

Photo 10

Shows how the reverse curvature keeps back of the blade clear of the facia while inserting the curved end in between the facia and crash pad.

4 Posts
Hi, newbie here.

I followed your procedure and was successful in removing the fascia. I was attempting to install a double din head unit that has GPS and many other functions. Unfortunately the unit's fascia (comes with it) didn't fit as there is a slight difference in the fascia's orientation between a right hand drive elantra and a left hand drive one. Mine is a right hand drive model. I have to reinstall my original unit and put everything back after wasting more than 3 hours. Now I am stuck with a perfectly good/new head unit, staring longingly at all those buttons that could unleash those wonderful functions :(

However, if there're some positives that I could take from the experience, it's learning to pry the fascia off :)

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