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Discussion Starter #1
Hi!

I want to share some bad experiences and also get some usefull tips regarding cleaning and change of EGR valve.

So after reading a lot of material reading on how to clean EGR valves and not enough materials on how to get EGR valve out and in I wanted to clean my EGR valve.

I've basically started with instructions written in GDS (Hyundai OEM service manual):
1. Turn the ignition switch OFF and disconnect the battery (-) cable.
2. Disconnect the EEGR valve connector (A)
3. Remove the EEGR valve ( B ) after removing the installation bolts.

After 1 hour of strugling I've ended with the broken EGR valve and my wallet with minus 300 € :crying2:

Can someone explain me what is the easiest way to get EGR valve out and how to install new: EGR valve (28410-2F000) IN, I've tried googling for this for several weeks now, but cannot find anything useful tips or tutorials...

The issue is new EGR has little larger diameter than its socket and needs to be somehow pressed into it? How to do this properly?
 

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Drives : Nissan NV200 Flies : Rans S6ES
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I confess I've never replaced an EGR valve on your particular engine but I'm pretty sure it shouldn't be that tight a fit that it needs pressed in.
Any valves I've worked on have been able to rotate in the socket when the securing bolts have been removed. Well, once they've been cleaned anyway.
Does the new valve fit into the socket at all before it gets tight?

Looking at the damage to the original valve, it looks like it has been snagging on the opening in the socket during removal. Did it come out as far as the top of the opening before it got stuck?
 

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First it came out for 2-5 mm then it stucked completely...

Then I made a cruicial mistake and ask my father, which worked as a car mechanic some 20 years ago to help me out and he probably used too much force + hammer and not get it out straight as he should so it was really stucked/snagged...

Next day I got new OEM valve by local Hyundai dealer i.e. version 28410-2F000FFF (originally it was 28410-2F000) and its diameter was significantly larger than the diameter of the socket. I mean it was obvious it can get in and that it was correct valve, but it looked it was not possibly to insert it into the socket without somehow pressing it in or sanding its diameter...

As we were affraid to stuck also new valve again, father (though I did not want to) used some sandpaper to make the valve diameter little smaller. I guess again too much of greenhorn ego approch...

Now the issue is that if I tighten it with predefined torques in GDS it looks vacum is leaking between the valve and socket, though we put also a new metal gasket...

Now I've ordered exact the same version 28410-2F000 as it was origianlly in and now I'm waiting its delivery.

As far as I understand this is high pressure EGR valve, right? How these valves usually get out properly and even more important how they get back IN properly, straight down that they do not get stucked?

Should be engine hot or cold to get it in/out properly, do I need some extra puller or presser or something? I've seen some special tools for Fords (https://www.otctools.com/products/egr-valve-puller), but due to price they ar of course not an option in my case...

The issue is there is no space to grab the valve with some simple tool? How do you usually get that out?

I've strugled to search Google and Youtube to see some proper tutorial or manual or video how to get such EGR valve in and out, but no success... The only thing cloesest to what D4HA engine has I found on some russian forum (https://www.drive2.ru/l/473945862616121425/)

Now the only thing which comes to my mind is to get very long screws and screw them into 3 holes of the socket so that valve just sits on the socket. Then to slowly tighten each of 3 nuts on that large screws to get valve slowly into socket straight down?

Now I'll probably drive the car to some local workshop, but I really want to learn what I did wrong and how these EGRs are handled properly...
 

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Can you believe manufacturers. Aluminium has a melting point of 660 deg C and exhaust gases are well above that. Allowing for heat loss and gas flow rate it's still a no brainer to make these parts from Alloy.
 

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As we were affraid to stuck also new valve again, father (though I did not want to) used some sandpaper to make the valve diameter little smaller. I guess again too much of greenhorn ego approch...


Now the issue is that if I tighten it with predefined torques in GDS it looks vacum is leaking between the valve and socket, though we put also a new metal gasket...
So you got the new valve in after a little sanding. I don't see that being a problem, as long as it was only "a little" sanding.
You don't need to worry about vacuum leaks. This is a diesel engine so there isn't any vacuum. If the gasket is leaking it will more likely be blowing air out than sucking it in. You also mention GDS. If there was special tools or procedures required to do the job it would tell you in GDS.
 

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So you got the new valve in after a little sanding. I don't see that being a problem, as long as it was only "a little" sanding.
You don't need to worry about vacuum leaks. This is a diesel engine so there isn't any vacuum. If the gasket is leaking it will more likely be blowing air out than sucking it in. You also mention GDS. If there was special tools or procedures required to do the job it would tell you in GDS.
Sometimes mid year they make design changes so you only know that you're getting the right part by giving the VIN number. This happened to me on a front-wheel drive Hyundai Santa Fe turns out that they actually gave it 4 wheel drive rotors and calipers ordered the parts twice for front wheel drive and they wouldn't fit finally we ordered four wheel drive and they fit so design changes do happen mid-year

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