Hyundai Forums banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I recently blocked my EGR valve ...after the EGR ...at the point where the EGR gasses mix with the fresh clean intake air. So there is still gass flowing to and aroound the EGR but it can't enter the engine. No fault codes on dash.
0:) see my thread here..
http://www.hyundai-forums.com/i800-iload/469705-iload-egr-blanking-blocking-easy-photos-provent-oil-catch-can-placement.html

The EGR valve is an environmental emissions add-on to your engine. It takes dirty exhaust gas and puts some of it back through the engine to lower the nitrate oxide production of the engine. At the same time it puts abrasive carbon and soot through your engine, and the EGR valve can clogg up and not work properly making the engine run very bad.

I recently bought a $3 OBD 2 scanner from ebay and downloaded the free TORQUE App to see whats happening with the engine when driven.
ELM327 OBD2 II Bluetooth Auto CAR OBD2 Diagnostic Interface Scanner Tool HC | eBay

This morning I saw an EGR display available on the app and I started the my HYUNDAI ILOAD to see what the EGR valve does in different engine conditions.

Heres how the EGR valvle behaves. This is with the vehicle parked and me just reving it or not reving and, one photo with air con on .

1. At idle 800rpm the EGR fully opens 94.9% open(dirty gas),(photo 1) letting dirty exhaust gas into the engine (probably not 100% open because of partial soot build up in the egr valve not allowing the valve to move in its full range of motion... and the sensor not being completely accurate)
....photo 1

2. At anything above idle...like 1000rpm or 2500rpm ...the EGR fully closes 4.7% open(no dirty gas) (basically fully closed)
..photo 2 and 3

3. At idle 800rpm when I turn the air con on EGR is partially closed 7.8%
(people have said on other forums that the EGR does not function when the air con is on, and it appears to be true)
...photo 4

4. After 90 seconds idling the EGR closes(no dirty gas) position goes from 94.9% to 4.7% (this must be built into the computer to shut the valve so it doesn't completely choke the engine with soot when idling for long periods)
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
NOTE: Had a blanking plate in. The flow of gas from the exhaust to the EGR was availalbe but the flow of gas from the EGR to the engine was blocked as I had a blanking plate on.

I retested it with the engine at normal temperature with the same results.

The readings from the OBD2 scanner could be just calculated on engine speed and not actual readings from an EGR sensor in my car. Who knows. But the OBD2 did recognise when i put the air con on.

The OBD2 scanner said no fault codes from the ECU.

Modern diesels, although they dont need them, have throttles which close slightly to help the EGR gases flow when required by the ECU. And also the throttle closes when key turned to switch off engine to stop engine rattle upon shut down and safety guard against runaway engine condition where it keeps revving until destruction due to the engine running on its own oil from oil leaks, from turbo seal leaks, or other problems.

So if the diesel throttle butterfly valve closes slightly to create a vaccum to draw gases from the EGR to the engine.....then the throttle must be only acting/closing at idle when the EGR wants gases to flow.
Some people were saying that blocking the EGR could effect the boost of the turbo. Blanking the EGR flow would give you extra turbo boost when the throttle closes with EGR operation.
I noticed a slight run on when getting off the accelrator when driving. Less engine braking. Nothing to get worried about. I like it. With my EGR blanked the turbo seems more ready to go and more responsive upon first accelerator pedal depression.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Had time to do more driving with the cheap OBD2 bluetooth scanner.

This is when driving ...actually moving ...with a fully warmed up engine.

The EGR seems to be recirculating dirty gas mostly between 0 to 50% accelerator pedal depression.

If I floor it 100% accelerator then the EGR stops. If i accelerate more than 50% pedal than the EGR stops circulating. But as soon as I get off the accelerator it immediately begins to circulate dirty gas again.

Its hard to chart exactly when the EGR stops and starts but this is just a feel from my driving while watching the readings on the screen. Basically the EGR wants to recirculate crap through the engine most of the time....the majority of the time while driving. Unless you come close to full accelerator pedal depression.

Ive read many times that the EGR on works only on low throttle openings and low engine speeds. From what I saw it seems to work a lot more of the time than that. It circulates gas anytime you are decelerating or coasting and anytime you are less than 50% accelerator pedal depression. So pretty much all the time. If you drove gently as most people do, it would be recirculating gas for the whole journey. So you can understand why it has a huge effect by carbonising and choking the engine and the intake manifold. And the EGR valve itself gets choked by its own carbon and stops working.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Rtb

g'day mate,
Just joined this forum and read your post.
It seems I need to get rid of, or block that egr bizzo.
I have a 2010 iload 2.5 diesel (the one with the alloy inlet manifold)
Had big dramas with no exceleration of and on until it was so bad the thing could not be driven.
I was told the engine had seized which was bs, however after getting the engine reconditioned and a brand new Hyundai turbo fitted, the same problem is occurring.
I figure I've wasted a good chunk of cash as it could have been this egr attachment all along.
The funny thing is from what you are saying, driving like miss daisy does more harm than good, which is pretty much what I've been doing since the reco engine was fitted.
The **** thing now jerks about and the tacho goes haywire too, but only when it's in fourth gear, and not all the time just at low revs.
can you disconnect the egr all together ?
Any additional advice would be great.
Cheers ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,793 Posts
EGR valves have become a necessary evil to reduce Oxides of Nitrogen by making the engine "eat it's own ****" so to speak. The are fully open under lught throttle cruiseing and close off at idle and heavyier loads. This lowers the peak combustion temperatures under these conditions which is where most people drive. Unfortunately they block up over time and there's no easy fix. I did some testing with a Holden Rodeo and found that as the valve was closed off the diesel knock increased which tells me there are other advantages of keeping it in operation. Newer technology with VVT has reduced the need for these devices so hopefully we will see them disappear. The guys in Europe are very into remapping them so they won't log a code. It's called EGR delete.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Hey guys, I've got a 2009 Hyundai Iload that was lacking some serious power down low till it hit the turbo, I suspected the egr valve as the issue, so I was planning to put a blanking plate in, but before I could install one, it all of a sudden stopped starting, it turns over fine but won't fire, I managed to get a mechanic to have a brief look at it, he hooked his scanner in, and sure enough it came back with an egr fault, I believe he said it had a clutch circuit error too, but he thought that shouldn't stop it starting (the clutch is on its way out but was working fine beforehand), so basically my question is, do you think its the egr valve stopping the van starting? If I replace the egr valve should it solve the issue? Cheers for the help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,793 Posts
I don't think so. If the EGR was stuck open all it would do is allow air/fuel back into the intake which in my opinion would make no difference to a normal cranking situation.
 

·
Registered
Drives : Nissan NV200 Flies : Rans S6ES
Joined
·
14,732 Posts
do you think its the egr valve stopping the van starting?
It would certainly be the prime suspect, in my opinion, if there is an EGR trouble code logged.

If I replace the egr valve should it solve the issue?
Before replacing the valve you should confirm that the non start is being caused by an EGR leak. I think that will be quite easy on your engine. Just disconnect the MAF sensor's harness connector, then remove the EGR feed pipe from the inlet manifold...see below. Now crank it over and see if it will fire up. If it does you can feel pretty confident that the EGR valve is the cause of the non start. And if a lot of smoke comes out of the of the opening at the EGR valve end of the pipe that is further confirmation that there is exhaust gas leaking though the valve.
448623


If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Rtb

g'day mate,
Just joined this forum and read your post.
It seems I need to get rid of, or block that egr bizzo.
I have a 2010 iload 2.5 diesel (the one with the alloy inlet manifold)
Had big dramas with no exceleration of and on until it was so bad the thing could not be driven.
I was told the engine had seized which was bs, however after getting the engine reconditioned and a brand new Hyundai turbo fitted, the same problem is occurring.
I figure I've wasted a good chunk of cash as it could have been this egr attachment all along.
The funny thing is from what you are saying, driving like miss daisy does more harm than good, which is pretty much what I've been doing since the reco engine was fitted.
The **** thing now jerks about and the tacho goes haywire too, but only when it's in fourth gear, and not all the time just at low revs.
can you disconnect the egr all together ?
Any additional advice would be great.
Cheers ?
Hi mate did you end up fixing your ILoad van I seem to be having the same issues. Any help would be great thanks
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top