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Well I got excited to install this and started it when I should have gone to bed. Took me a couple of hours. If you are familiar with the areas that need to be accessed and have experience tapping wires, then this could be done in 30-60 minutes.

I was in no rush and spent quite a bit of time looking things up as I didn't actually know how to get to the panel under the kickplate (before the install I thought those connections were on the same panel as the fuses...). I also hesitated when it came time to actually make the first connection, because I thought that the wire taps I had were both too large for the smaller wires and too small for the larger wires. Eventually I decided to just go for it and they worked for both the smaller and larger wires quite well with the exception of the 12v wire, which again, I hesitated on for quite some time. It's much bigger than the others and for that I ended up doing a manual connection instead of using wire taps. For the ground connection, it took a while to find, but there's a screw with a few other wires going to it above the trunk release latch.

The most difficult part of the install, for me, was tapping into the headlight wire, which is behind the steering wheel. There was no slack (although there could have been if I removed the wheel and removed the wiring from the zip tie that was holding it in place) so it was quite a pain to deal with, despite being a single small wire. The 2 wires behind the push-to-start button weren't easy to tap into either, but not as bad as the headlight wire. Every other wire was in the kickplate area and was pretty easy to access and tap into.

Since it was so late and it was dark, basically the least ideal time to do this project, I didn't get almost any photos and no video. Attached are the 2 photos that I did get. You can see one of the wire taps I used (blue) but I didn't take the photo at an angle to show the actual connectors unfortunately.

The end result is that there's a large bundle of wires that goes from the kickplate, upwards and to the right, over to the remote starter. There's a second bundle of only 3 small wires coming from above the starter. And finally, the HC1 (1-way antenna with remotes) plugged in on the right side, which is just a single connection and required no setup/programming. The HC1 is optional - I only got it because we only have one OEM key and my wife always bugs me for it just to unlock the doors and get things. It was cheaper to get the HC1 just for unlocking the doors than it was to get a replacement OEM key, haha
 

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Just an update with 2 issues

1 - Secure takeover doesn't work, I'm told by the seller that he's seen it before and it's a firmware issue. I'll be bugging iDataStart. There's a workaround, which is to press the brake + start at the same time, and the engine doesn't turn off.

2 - I must have loosened something to the driver door as now my window/lock controls and the door ajar sensor stop working. They start working again if I slam the door sometimes, or by pusing on the wires in the driver kick panel. I don't think any of the wires I tapped into are relevant to this issue, and taking out the remote starter has no effect. I think something is just loose since I was in there. If anyone has pinouts of the driver kick panel. it would help me fix this.
 

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I think something is just loose since I was in there. If anyone has pinouts of the driver kick panel. it would help me fix this.
I think I've narrowed it down to the CANH and CANL wires which makes sense based on what I could find about how the door controls work. If I pull on them then the door controls and door sensor cut out, and if I push or wiggle a certain way then they come back. When I did the install I inserted a SIM card removal tool into the connector holes to create a more easily probable surface to test the connections, since my multimeter probe didn't fit down the back of the connector where the wires go in. I wonder if the SIM tool widened/loosened the connector on me or something? I want to say no since it's probably the same if not smaller than the pin that the connector actually plugs into.. Anyway I'll remove my wire taps and play some more later.
 

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Fixed all my issues. Wasn't the wires. Was the connector to the kick panel. I used needle nose pliers to very slightly bend the 2 CAN pins on the kick panel, then plugged the connector in. I can't get my door to act up at all now.

And I redid the programming procedure for the starter afterwards and secure takeover works too! The door must not have had a good connection during that the first time.

So everything is great. Wonderful starter.

Also if I didn't mention it, it's only 9 wires. The instructions show 11 but they don't tell you where to connect the hood sensor wire (says to install the provided hood pin, no thanks) and they don't tell you where to connect the horn wire either (I'm happy to not have that). HOWEVER both of those actually still seem to work without the wires for them. I can't remote start the vehicle with the hood open, and when I mash lock on the HC1 remote too many times then the vehicle honks back at me.
 

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Installed an Android head unit and snapped a pic of the 2 wires behind the push-to-start. Much better access from this side than how I actually did it:

443846

443847
 

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Installed an Android head unit and snapped a pic of the 2 wires behind the push-to-start. Much better access from this side than how I actually did it:

Hey I gave my daughter a compustar remote start as an xmas present for her Tucson, which is not push button, uses a key. So she has the bulky OEM key fob and the push button remote. do you know if there is an drawback to removing the key from the oem FOB so she can carry just the compustar FOB ? BB did the install and they advised against removing the key but carrying 2 key FOBs is cumbersome. thanks
 
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